What historical biases exist in textured hair classification?

Roots

There is a profound resonance when we speak of hair, a connection that reaches beyond mere appearance and into the very currents of time and ancestral memory. For generations held captive by oppressive narratives, the classification of textured hair has carried burdens, silent histories etched into every curl, coil, and wave. We begin here, at the source, acknowledging that the way we understand and name hair today is not a neutral act. It stands influenced by historical biases, by systems that sought to categorize and control, often with deeply damaging intent.

Before the shadows of colonialism stretched across continents, hair in many African societies was a vibrant lexicon, a living chronicle. It communicated more than words could often convey. A person’s hair style could signify their age, marital status, social standing, tribal identity, or even their spiritual alignment.

The intricate braiding patterns of the Fulani People, for instance, were a visual geography of their lineage and status. The Yoruba saw the head as the most elevated part of the body, a spiritual portal, and hair rituals were acts of profound reverence, connecting individuals to the divine.

The ancient practices of hair care and styling reveal a language of identity and community, often silenced but never fully erased.

Hair Classification Systems and Their Shadowy Lineage

The contemporary hair typing systems, familiar to many, with their numbers and letters like 3A or 4C, carry a genealogy rooted in a darker past. While popular today as a tool for understanding hair needs, the very concept of categorizing hair in this manner stems from disturbing origins. Star Donaldson, writing in Byrdie, explains that early hair typing aimed to ascertain an individual’s “proximity to whiteness based on their texture.”

One of the earliest, and most troubling, examples of such classification comes from Eugen Fischer, a Nazi German scientist and ardent eugenicist. In the early 1900s, Fischer employed a hair gauge in present-day Namibia, attempting to determine “Blackness” through hair texture. This classification contributed to the subjugation of the indigenous Namibian people, a period that saw mass genocide based on beliefs of white racial supremacy.

Such a scientific endeavor, born from a desire to hierarchy humanity, highlights the insidious ways bias can become embedded in what appears to be objective observation. The South African Apartheid system, too, utilized hair as a racial marker through the “pencil test,” where a pencil placed in hair determined racial categorization.

The Andre Walker Hair Typing System, widely recognized today, categorizes hair into four primary types ❉ straight (1), wavy (2), curly (3), and coily (4), with subcategories. While Walker stated his intent was to assist consumers in selecting products, critics point out that this system has inadvertently reinforced hierarchies, with looser curl patterns often favored over tighter coils. This bias, known as Texturism, prioritizes hair textures closer to European ideals, manifesting in discrimination against coarser hair types.

What Ancestral Hair Knowings Did These Systems Overlook?

The inherent limitations of these biased classification models stand in stark contrast to the holistic, nuanced understanding of hair held by ancestral communities. These systems reduced the complex biological and cultural tapestry of hair to a simple, often reductive, scale. Pre-colonial African societies understood hair’s variations not as a ladder of superiority, but as diverse expressions of life, identity, and spirit. They recognized the unique characteristics of each hair type through generations of observation, touch, and skilled care, not through rigid, external categorization.

Hair anatomy, when viewed from an ancestral perspective, was not solely about cuticle scales or curl diameter, but about the hair’s very essence, its vitality, its connection to the individual’s well-being and their collective memory. Traditional hair care practices were often communal events, fostering bonds and passing down wisdom. These were not mere grooming routines; they were rituals, acts of cultural preservation. The ingredients used, from shea butter to coconut oil, were chosen for their deep nourishing properties, reflecting a harmony with the natural world that understood hair from within.

Ritual

The influence of historical biases extends deeply into the styling practices associated with textured hair, shaping perceptions and often forcing choices. The ancestral heritage of hair artistry, rich with symbolic meaning and communal significance, faced profound disruption. Enslavement brought a systematic erasure of cultural practices, including traditional hairstyles, with slave traders often shaving heads to strip identity. Yet, even in the crucible of adversity, resilience shone through.

Braiding, a practice dating back 5000 years in African culture, became a covert act of resistance and preservation. African women, particularly rice farmers, braided rice seeds into their hair for survival, and cornrows served as hidden maps to freedom.

In many traditions, styling hair became a language of survival and silent protest against imposed standards.

How Did Historical Pressure Reshape Hair Styling?

Post-emancipation, the pressure to conform to Eurocentric beauty standards continued to influence hair practices for Black people in the diaspora. Straightening methods gained prominence, facilitated by innovations like Madam C.J. Walker’s hot comb in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

While these tools offered economic independence for some within the haircare industry, they also perpetuated the idea that straight hair offered greater social and economic acceptance. This period saw the rise of the concept of “good hair” – typically straighter textures – versus “bad hair,” which was often associated with natural, coily textures.

The Tignon Laws of 1786 in New Orleans exemplify this deliberate effort to control and devalue Black hair. These laws mandated that Creole women of color wear head coverings to conceal their elaborate hairstyles, which had drawn attention. These women, however, subverted the law by adorning their head wraps with jewels and vibrant fabrics, transforming an act of degradation into a statement of defiance and style. This act underscores the spirit of resilience, a historical pattern of transforming oppression into creative expression.

Ancestral Styling Practices and Enduring Wisdom

Despite centuries of attempts to diminish or erase its cultural meaning, the foundational styling practices rooted in textured hair heritage have persisted. These are not merely aesthetic choices, but deeply ingrained traditions that promote health and express identity. Traditional styles carried specific meanings:

• Braids ❉ Beyond their beauty, braids in African cultures communicated social status, age, marital status, and tribal affiliation. They also served as protective styles against the elements and for hair preservation.
• Twists ❉ Similar to braids, twists were, and remain, a versatile and protective method, often used to create definition and minimize tangling.
• Locs ❉ Historically and currently, locs hold deep spiritual significance in many communities, symbolizing a connection to the earth and a journey of growth.

These practices often involve tools that reflect their natural origins and traditional craftsmanship:

1. Wooden Combs ❉ Crafted to gently detangle and style, honoring the hair’s natural curl pattern.
2. Natural Oils and Butters ❉ Shea butter, coconut oil, and various herbal infusions were essential for moisturizing, sealing, and promoting hair health.
3. Hair Adornments ❉ Beads, cowrie shells, and cloth wraps were not simply decorative but symbolic, signifying wealth, status, and community ties.

The tools and techniques of ancestral styling were intrinsically linked to the health and vitality of the hair, contrasting sharply with later innovations driven by a desire for conformity. They reveal a nuanced understanding of textured hair, celebrating its unique structure and inherent beauty rather than attempting to alter it to fit external standards. These traditions continue to shape modern natural hair movements, where the reclamation of traditional styling forms a core part of identity expression and resistance against historical biases.

Relay

The continuum of historical biases in textured hair classification casts long shadows over contemporary discussions of hair health and well-being. Even today, the legacy of these devaluing classifications contributes to pervasive discrimination against natural hair textures, impacting daily lives, professional opportunities, and self-perception. We witness this daily, a quiet echo of past judgments, in how society perceives and reacts to hair that does not align with Eurocentric norms. Policies and biases against natural Black hairstyles, such as afros, locs, braids, and twist-outs, persist as a form of racial discrimination.

The enduring struggle for acceptance of natural hair reflects a deep societal challenge to overcome entrenched, prejudiced views.

Why Does Hair Texture Discrimination Continue?

The persistence of hair discrimination is evident in striking statistics. A 2023 study found that Black Women’s Hair is 2.5 Times More Likely to Be Perceived as “unprofessional” Compared to White Women’s Hair. This perception forces many Black women to alter their hair for job interviews; approximately two-thirds of Black women report changing their hair for such occasions, with 41% of them straightening their hair. These pressures are not abstract; they have tangible effects, with over 20% of Black women between 25 and 34 years old having been sent home from work due to their hair.

In the UK, research shows that 93% of Black individuals have experienced microaggressions related to their Afro hair, with schools and workplaces being common sites for such discrimination. The roots of this bias reach into foundational classification systems and their underlying ideologies.

While Andre Walker’s system gained popularity in the 1990s as a consumer guide, its implicit hierarchy, placing straight hair at the top (Type 1) and tighter coils at the bottom (Type 4), contributes to texturism. This subtle ranking, irrespective of Walker’s stated intentions, lends credence to the notion that certain textures are less desirable or manageable. Modern scientific discourse on hair, however, strives to move beyond such reductive, race-based categorizations.

Biological anthropologists and hair scientists now emphasize that human hair variation exists as a continuous spectrum, not discrete racial types. Research aims to define hair types based on objective physical features like curve diameter, curl index, and number of waves, independent of ethnicity.

How Does Ancestral Wisdom Inform Modern Hair Care?

A holistic approach to textured hair care, deeply rooted in ancestral wisdom, offers a powerful counter-narrative to these historical biases. It emphasizes nourishment, protection, and respect for hair in its natural state. Traditional hair care practices, passed down through generations, often centered on principles that modern science now affirms.

The nighttime sanctuary, for instance, a crucial aspect of textured hair care, finds its foundation in practical wisdom that predates modern concerns about friction and moisture loss. The use of head coverings, like bonnets and scarves, carries deep historical significance. From the Tignon Laws that compelled women to cover their hair (which they transformed into statements of pride) to the enduring practice of wrapping hair at night, these coverings served both protection and identity.

They safeguarded delicate curls and coils from damage during sleep, preserving intricate styles, a practice passed down through generations. This understanding of hair’s fragility and its need for gentle protection is an inherent part of its heritage.

Reflection

To truly understand textured hair classification requires more than a clinical gaze; it beckons us to look upon a living archive, a narrative of resilience and spirit. The historical biases embedded within these systems are not distant relics, but lingering whispers that continue to shape perceptions and experiences. Yet, within every curl, every resilient coil, lies a profound story of heritage, a testament to ancestral ingenuity and enduring cultural strength.

The hair on our heads serves as a reminder of our connection to a lineage that transformed control into creativity, prejudice into power. It stands as a vibrant monument to a history that, despite attempts to categorize and diminish, remains unbroken, a living stream flowing from the source of our deepest roots, winding through time, and continuing its journey unbound.