What historical biases against textured hair remain today?

Roots

The story of textured hair is an ancient one, deeply etched in the very fabric of human existence. Before any biases took root, before any societal decree dared to label what was simply natural, hair was a language. It was a cosmic antenna, a connection to the spiritual realm, a map of lineage, and a profound statement of belonging within countless African societies. The tight coils, the magnificent kinks, the vibrant waves—each strand held a history, a narrative of survival, and an intricate beauty that reflected the sun-drenched landscapes and the spirit of the people who wore it as their crown.

Consider the Himba people of Namibia, whose intricate hair traditions speak volumes of life stages and social standing. Young girls might wear two braids, signaling their youth, while maturing women may adorn their hair with a braid across the face to indicate readiness for marriage. This practice, along with the distinctive ochre paste they use, is not merely cosmetic; it is a living chronicle, connecting them to their ancestors and the earth itself. This reverence for hair, its forms, and its tending rituals, speaks to a wisdom lost in the clamor of imposed standards.

What then, happened to this intrinsic veneration? How did something so deeply personal, so culturally rich, become a battleground for bias? The answers lie within the historical currents that sought to dismantle the very foundations of identity for people of African descent.

How Did Early Classifications Shape Perception?

The shift from ancestral esteem to systemic devaluing began with the insidious practice of racial classification. In the annals of early European anthropology, individuals like Johann Friedrich Blumenbach, while attempting a scientific approach to human diversity, often reflected the prevailing prejudices of their era. Blumenbach, in the late 18th century, established a taxonomy that would unfortunately shape subsequent, more rigid racial classifications, categorizing humanity into five “varieties,” including “Ethiopian” for Black people. His work, despite his own occasional ambivalence, laid groundwork that allowed for hair texture to become a physical marker in a hierarchical system, rather than a natural expression of human diversity.

This was not an objective scientific pursuit in many instances, but rather a reflection of a society beginning to justify the monstrous acts of the transatlantic slave trade and colonialism. The forced shaving of heads upon capture, meant to dehumanize and sever cultural ties, marked the initial physical assault on this heritage. Subsequently, the preference for straighter hair within enslaved communities became a matter of survival, with those exhibiting features closer to European ideals sometimes receiving “preferential” (though still horrific) treatment. This created an internal stratification, or texturism, where kinkier or curlier textures were offensively deemed “bad hair” and straighter textures “good hair,” a cruel legacy that persists in some corners even today.

The very language of hair classification, born from early anthropological attempts, inadvertently seeded societal biases against textured hair.

The absence of a truly standardized, scientific system for textured hair classification for centuries further allowed subjective, culturally loaded terms to persist. Terms like “kinky” or “wooly,” once descriptive, became weaponized, loaded with negative connotations that stripped the hair of its inherent beauty and resilience. The science of hair, particularly textured hair, remained understudied for a long time, partly due to the discomfort among anthropologists with traits historically associated with racial categories.

Yet, textured hair, with its unique structure, is an evolutionary marvel, designed to protect the scalp from the sun and retain moisture in arid climates. Understanding its biological foundations allows for a greater appreciation of its adaptive significance and its inherent value beyond any imposed beauty standard.

Ritual

The hair on our heads, particularly textured strands, carries a deeply etched memory of generations, a testament to care practices that were once communal, spiritual, and intrinsically tied to cultural heritage. From the intricate braiding of cornrows that could map escape routes during enslavement, to the careful application of natural butters and herbs for moisture retention, these were not merely grooming steps; they were rituals, acts of resistance, and expressions of identity. Yet, the insidious nature of historical biases sought to disrupt these intimate connections, dictating what was acceptable or “professional,” often compelling individuals to abandon their ancestral ways of care and styling.

Think of the vibrant marketplaces of pre-colonial West Africa, where hair styling was a significant communal activity, signifying marital status, age, wealth, or tribal affiliation. Styles like the Amasunzu of Rwanda, with its crescent shapes, or the Fulani braids adorned with beads and cowrie shells, spoke a visual language, unique to each community. These practices formed a living library of hair knowledge, passed from elder to child, each touch a lesson in self-worth and belonging. This heritage was disrupted, certainly, but never wholly erased, instead transforming into new forms of resilience and innovation.

What Ancestral Styles Endure Despite Erasure?

Despite deliberate attempts to suppress and devalue them, many ancestral styling practices persisted, often becoming powerful symbols of defiance. The Tignon Laws, enacted in Louisiana in 1786, serve as a stark reminder of this struggle. These laws mandated that free Black women, whose elaborate hairstyles were seen as a threat to the racial hierarchy and a challenge to white male attention, had to cover their hair with a headwrap called a tignon. This was a direct assault on a visible marker of identity and status.

The Tignon Laws, while intended to suppress Black women’s visible identity, instead became a canvas for vibrant resistance.

Yet, in a powerful act of creative resistance, these women transformed the tignon into a statement of defiance, adorning their headwraps with colorful fabrics and jewels, turning an oppressive mandate into a bold fashion statement. This historical example powerfully illuminates the connection between bias, textured hair heritage, and Black experiences ❉ even under duress, the spirit of self-expression and cultural pride found a way to shine through. The enduring presence of cornrows, twists, and locs today speaks to this unbroken chain of heritage, styles that have not only survived but have been reclaimed as symbols of pride and power.

The pressure to conform to Eurocentric beauty standards led many Black individuals to straighten their hair using hot combs and chemical relaxers. These methods, while offering temporary societal acceptance, often came at the cost of hair health, causing damage and breakage. The quest for “manageable” or “professional” hair, terms deeply rooted in biased perceptions, drove a market for products that historically overlooked the unique needs of textured hair. The inherent beauty of coils and kinks was deemed “unruly,” a direct reflection of a prejudiced lens, not an objective assessment of hair properties.

However, the historical bias against textured hair inadvertently spurred innovation within Black communities. Figures like Madam C.J. Walker, a pioneer in Black hair care, created products specifically to address the needs of textured hair, building an empire that empowered Black women economically and cosmetically. These innovations, while sometimes aimed at straightening, also laid groundwork for a future where products would cater to and celebrate natural textures.

1. Cornrows ❉ Originating in Africa, these intricate braids were historically used not only for aesthetic purposes but also to signify tribal identity, social status, and even as maps for escape during enslavement. Their structural integrity also offers protection for the hair.
2. Bantu Knots ❉ With roots in Southern Africa, this style involves twisting sections of hair upon themselves to form small, coiled buns. Beyond their decorative appeal, they serve as a protective style, setting the hair in a specific pattern.
3. Locs ❉ Sacred and deeply spiritual in many African and diasporic cultures, locs have been worn for centuries, symbolizing spiritual connection, wisdom, and an unbroken lineage. They are a style of profound commitment and natural growth.

Relay

The echoes of historical biases against textured hair reverberate through contemporary society, manifesting in subtle and overt forms of discrimination. While the overt laws like the Tignon Laws have long been abolished, their spirit persists in societal norms, workplace policies, and even in the implicit biases held by many individuals. This continuation underscores the powerful, enduring legacy of Eurocentric beauty standards that still position straight hair as the ideal of professionalism and beauty, while textured hair often faces scrutiny and devaluation.

Consider the workplace, where Black women with textured hair are disproportionately affected. A 2020 study by Duke University found that Black women with natural hairstyles were perceived as less professional, less competent, and less likely to be recommended for job interviews compared to candidates with straight hair. This same study determined that Black women with natural hairstyles were less likely to secure job interviews than white women or Black women with straightened hair. Such perceptions have tangible consequences, impacting livelihoods and career trajectories.

The data paints a clear picture ❉ Black women are 2.5 times more likely to have their hair perceived as unprofessional. Furthermore, a significant number, 66%, of Black women alter their hair for job interviews, with 41% specifically changing their hair from curly to straight. These statistics are not mere numbers; they are lived experiences, reflecting a constant pressure to conform to a standard that does not honor their natural heritage.

Contemporary discrimination against textured hair, particularly in professional settings, stems from historical biases that equated straight hair with competence.

Where Does Ancestral Wisdom Meet Modern Care?

The response to these enduring biases has been a powerful reclamation of textured hair heritage, often termed the natural hair movement. This contemporary movement, building upon the “Black Is Beautiful” era of the 1960s, represents a widespread decision to embrace natural textures, rejecting the historical pressure to straighten or chemically alter hair. It is a movement deeply rooted in ancestral wisdom, recognizing hair not just as a physical attribute, but as a connection to identity, wellness, and community.

The CROWN Act (Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair) stands as a significant legislative counter to this persistent bias. This legislation seeks to prohibit discrimination based on hair texture and protective styles commonly associated with race, such as braids, locs, and twists. As of September 2024, 27 states and Washington, D.C.

have passed CROWN laws, marking a legislative shift towards protecting this aspect of racial identity. While the Civil Rights Act of 1964 protected against race-based discrimination, it did not explicitly cover phenotypical markers like hair texture, creating a loophole that the CROWN Act aims to close.

The journey towards holistic care for textured hair today often involves a conscious return to practices and ingredients passed down through generations. Ancient African civilizations utilized natural butters, herbs, and oils not just for beauty, but for health, protection, and spiritual connection. Shea butter, for example, widely used in African tribes, offers moisturizing and protective properties for hair.

The Himba tribe’s use of otjize, a mixture of red ochre and butterfat, provides both cultural symbolism and practical protection from the elements. These ancestral practices underscore a profound understanding of hair needs that predates modern science.

Modern scientific understanding now often validates these long-standing traditional practices. Research on the unique physical properties of textured hair, such as its propensity for shrinkage and need for moisture retention, aligns with the historical emphasis on hydration and protective styling. This convergence allows for the creation of regimens that honor both heritage and contemporary understanding, bridging the gap between ancient wisdom and scientific discovery. The continued evolution of natural hair care products, spearheaded by Black-owned businesses, also serves as a testament to this ongoing reclamation, offering solutions tailored to diverse textures and needs.

• Shea Butter ❉ A traditional African ingredient, recognized for its exceptional moisturizing capabilities and ability to protect hair from harsh environmental conditions. Its use reflects a long history of natural conditioning.
• Chebe Powder ❉ Employed by the Basara Tribe of Chad, this herbal mixture, combined with oils and animal fat, aids in length retention and strengthens hair. It represents an ancestral method for robust hair care.
• Hair Oiling Rituals ❉ Across many African cultures, the regular application of natural oils was a common practice to seal in moisture and promote scalp health. This simple ritual was a cornerstone of ancient hair preservation.

Reflection

The journey of textured hair, from ancient reverence to centuries of bias and its ongoing reclamation, is a story woven with the very fiber of human resilience and cultural memory. It is a profound meditation on heritage, a living testament to how past harms continue to shape present realities, and how identity finds expression even in the face of adversity. Each coil and curl carries the whispers of ancestral wisdom, the echoes of resistance, and the vibrant songs of self-acceptance.

The struggles against discrimination, though painful, have galvanized a deeper appreciation for the intrinsic beauty and power of natural textures. This path toward honoring textured hair is not merely about aesthetics; it is about recognizing the inherent worth of every individual, affirming a collective history, and building a future where every strand tells a proud, unburdened story of heritage.