# What Historical Biases against Textured Hair Led to the CROWN Act? ❉ Question

**Published:** 2025-06-04
**Author:** Roothea
**Categories:** Question

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![The image conveys a moment of intimate care, as hands apply a rich moisturizer to tightly coiled hair, celebrating the beauty and strength of Black hair traditions and holistic care. This act embodies cultural identity, ancestral connection, and wellness for expressive styling, nourishing the hair](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/nourishing-textured-hair-deep-moisture-treatment-application-black-and-white.jpg)

## Roots

Consider, for a moment, the very fiber of who we are, woven not just from bone and blood, but from story, from memory, from the very coils that crown our heads. For generations, the strands of [textured hair](/area/textured-hair/) have carried the weight of ancestral wisdom, whispered secrets of resilience, and sung silent anthems of identity across the globe. This isn’t merely a biological attribute; it is a living archive, a sacred inheritance.

Yet, this profound connection to our very being has, for centuries, been twisted, denigrated, and policed by forces seeking to impose a singular, narrow vision of beauty and acceptability. The biases that ultimately spurred the creation of the [CROWN Act](/area/crown-act/) find their genesis in a deep, unsettling past, a history where hair became a battleground for dignity.

Before the harrowing journey of the transatlantic slave trade, hair in various African societies held a central, ceremonial place. It was a language spoken through intricate patterns and purposeful adornments. Hair could signify a person’s marital status, age, religious devotion, tribal lineage, wealth, or social standing. Skilled artisans, revered within their communities, would spend hours crafting elaborate styles, often using natural elements like plant-based butters and herbs to maintain the hair’s vitality and health.

These were not casual acts; they were rituals, communal gatherings that strengthened bonds and passed down generational wisdom. The physical structure of **afro-textured hair**, with its distinct spiral-shaped curls and dense appearance, was seen not as a deviation, but as a natural manifestation of beauty and adaptation to intense sunlight, a testament to its evolutionary origins.

Then came the Middle Passage, a brutal severing from ancestral lands and traditions. Enslaved Africans were often subjected to forced head shavings, a deliberate act of dehumanization designed to strip away their [cultural identity](/area/cultural-identity/) and sever ties to their homelands. This violent disruption marked the beginning of a systematic campaign to redefine Blackness, including its physical manifestations.

The rich terminology that once celebrated diverse hair textures was replaced by derogatory labels such as “wool,” “kinky,” and “nappy,” terms used to demean and establish an imagined inferiority. This linguistic degradation laid the groundwork for policies that would further oppress and control.

> The historical biases against textured hair are deeply rooted in the forced erasure of ancestral identity during slavery, leading to centuries of imposed Eurocentric beauty norms.
One stark illustration of this deliberate suppression arrived in 18th-century New Orleans with the infamous **Tignon Laws**. These sumptuary laws, enacted in 1786 under Governor Esteban Rodríguez Miró, mandated that free Creole women of African descent cover their hair with a “tignon,” a scarf or handkerchief. These women, renowned for their elaborate and adorned hairstyles ❉ often displaying their coils and curls with elegance and confidence ❉ were perceived as a threat to the social order, particularly to the perceived status of white women. The law sought to visually mark them as subordinate, regardless of their free status, pushing them closer to the visual markers of enslavement.

Yet, even in this constraint, a defiant spirit arose. These women transformed the imposed tignon into a statement of style, choosing vibrant colors and intricate tying methods, subtly reclaiming a measure of agency and beauty. This quiet rebellion against oppressive mandates speaks volumes about the enduring spirit of Black people and their connection to hair.

![Soft light reveals the beauty of coiled braids in this monochrome portrait. This is a visual narrative exploring nuanced aesthetics, braided coil formations, and the rich tapestry of mixed-race heritage, inviting reflection on ancestral connections and the personalized expression of identity through natural hair textures](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/monochrome-portrait-of-a-mixed-race-woman-with-braided-coiled-hairstyle.jpg)

![Black obsidian](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/porous-black-obsidian-stone-texture-for-afro-hair-product-inspiration.jpg)

## Ritual

The echoes of that historical assault on textured hair continued to reverberate through generations, shaping the very rituals of care and community that define Black and mixed-race hair journeys. After emancipation, while physical chains were broken, societal pressures to conform to prevailing **Eurocentric beauty standards** remained a formidable force. The pervasive narrative suggested that “good hair” was straight, silky, and manageable, aligning with European phenotypes, while kinky or coily hair was deemed “bad,” “unprofessional,” or “untidy”. This forced many Black individuals, particularly women, to engage in practices that chemically or thermally altered their hair, often at significant personal cost and health risk. 

The early 20th century saw the widespread adoption of tools like the **hot comb** and chemical relaxers, products designed to straighten textured hair. These processes, while offering a perceived path to social acceptance, often involved discomfort, potential scalp burns, and long-term damage to the hair shaft. The decision to straighten hair was rarely a simple aesthetic preference; it was frequently a calculated choice for survival, aiming to secure employment, educational opportunities, or simply to avoid public scrutiny and harassment. This struggle reveals the profound link between hair and socioeconomic mobility, a link that denied people the freedom to express their natural selves. 

What forms of oppression followed the Tignon Laws? 

Beyond the Tignon Laws, the policing of [Black hair](/area/black-hair/) manifested in myriad forms throughout the 20th century. School dress codes, workplace grooming policies, and even military regulations often implicitly or explicitly banned natural Black hairstyles, perpetuating the notion that such styles were inappropriate for formal or professional settings. Children were sent home from school, adults denied jobs or promotions, all due to the texture or style of their natural hair. 

> The enduring struggle against hair discrimination stems from a colonial legacy that equated professionalism with Eurocentric straight hair, coercing Black individuals to alter their natural coils for societal acceptance.
This systematic bias extended to the very language used to describe hair. The Andre Walker Hair Typing System, while popular today, emerged from problematic origins. The original hair type categorization system, developed in the early 1900s by Eugen Fischer, a eugenicist, was used to determine “Blackness” based on [hair texture](/area/hair-texture/) during a period of genocide in Namibia.

While modern classifications aim for neutrality, this historical context underscores how even scientific endeavors were once weaponized against textured hair, contributing to the hierarchy of hair types that still impacts perceptions today. This system has contributed to **texturism**, a form of discrimination where individuals with coarser, tighter coil patterns (often categorized as 4c) experience greater bias than those with looser curls.

Despite these persistent challenges, the inherent pride in **textured hair heritage** never truly diminished. The 1960s and 1970s witnessed a powerful resurgence of the **Natural Hair Movement**, deeply intertwined with the Civil Rights and Black Power movements. The Afro, in particular, became a potent symbol of Black identity, protest, and a defiant embrace of inherent beauty.

It was a visual declaration, asserting cultural pride and rejecting imposed standards. This period marked a critical shift, as individuals began to reclaim their ancestral connection to their hair, viewing it not as something to be tamed, but as a crown to be worn with honor.

![Camellia seed oil, a legacy for textured hair wellness, embodies ancestral care and moisture. Its monochrome elegance connects historical beauty rituals to today](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/camellia-seed-oil-black-and-white-still-life-textured-hair.jpg)

![Botanical textures evoke the organic foundations of holistic hair care, mirroring Black hair traditions and mixed-race hair narratives. This leaf arrangement, reminiscent of ancestral heritage, connects natural ingredients with expressive styling for texture, promoting wellness and celebrating the artistry of textured hair formations](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/artistic-black-and-white-leaves-arrangement-represents-natural-textured-hair.jpg)

## Relay

The enduring struggle against hair discrimination, though rooted in centuries past, reached a critical juncture in recent decades, culminating in legislative action aimed at preserving the intrinsic connection between textured hair and cultural identity. Despite the momentum of the [Natural Hair](/area/natural-hair/) Movement, Black individuals continued to face widespread discrimination in schools and workplaces. This persistent bias prompted a concerted effort to codify protections into law, acknowledging that discrimination based on hair texture or style is indeed a form of racial discrimination. 

How has [hair discrimination](/area/hair-discrimination/) shaped Black experiences in modern institutions? 

The modern era has seen myriad documented instances where individuals were penalized for their natural hair. Consider the case of Andrew Johnson, a high school wrestler in New Jersey, forced to cut his locs before a match in 2018. Or Faith Fennidy, a young girl sent home from school in New Orleans for wearing braids. These incidents, alongside countless others, illustrate the ongoing policing of Black bodies and identities through hair regulations.

A 2019 study, the CROWN Workplace Research Study, revealed that **Black women’s hair is 2.5 times more likely to be perceived as unprofessional**, and Black women are **54% more likely to feel they need to straighten their hair for a job interview** to succeed. Such statistics lay bare the systemic nature of the bias, demonstrating its tangible impact on educational and employment opportunities.

This discrimination is not merely an aesthetic preference; it carries significant mental, emotional, and economic tolls. The pressure to conform often leads to feelings of marginalization, stress, and diminished self-esteem. The financial burden of chemical treatments or wigs, sometimes perceived as necessary for “professionalism,” adds another layer of inequity.

Black consumers spent $2.3 billion on hair care in 2022, making it their largest beauty and skin purchase category, with permanent straightening treatments ranging from $38 to $435 per session. These are real costs incurred in the pursuit of acceptance, a pursuit often driven by discriminatory standards.

- **Chemical Relaxers** ❉ Used for decades to straighten coils, often causing scalp burns and breakage.

- **Thermal Straightening** ❉ Hot combs and flat irons, providing temporary straightness but risking heat damage.

- **Wigs and Weaves** ❉ Often worn as a protective style, yet sometimes adopted to mask natural texture for perceived acceptance.
The impetus for legislative change gained significant momentum from this ongoing reality. The very title of the **CROWN Act**, standing for “Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair,” encapsulates its core purpose: to affirm the inherent dignity of textured hair and protect individuals from discrimination based on their hair texture or protective styles, including braids, locs, twists, and Bantu knots. This legislation broadens the definition of race within anti-discrimination laws to include hair, recognizing that hair is inextricably linked to racial identity and heritage for Black and mixed-race individuals. 

> The CROWN Act emerged as a direct response to persistent hair discrimination, striving to legally safeguard ancestral hair expressions as fundamental aspects of racial identity.
California pioneered this movement, enacting the first CROWN Act in 2019, expanding protections in employment and education. This landmark decision ignited a wave of similar legislative efforts across the United States. As of June 2023, twenty-three states had passed similar legislation. While a federal CROWN Act passed the House of Representatives in 2022, it has yet to be enacted at the national level, facing obstacles in the Senate.

This legislative journey, though incomplete, signifies a collective societal shift, a growing recognition that hair is not “just hair” for Black communities. It is a profound manifestation of cultural identity, a legacy passed down through millennia.

The legislation’s aim is not to dictate style, but to ensure that individuals have the freedom to express their heritage without fear of professional or academic repercussions. It addresses a deep historical wound, validating the beauty and appropriateness of natural hair in all spaces. The passage of the CROWN Act is a testament to the enduring advocacy of countless individuals and organizations, including the CROWN Coalition, who have tirelessly championed this cause. This collective action underscores a societal awakening to the systemic nature of hair discrimination and the imperative to dismantle such biases, allowing every strand to speak its truth without fear of judgment. 

![A striking black and white composition celebrates heritage, showcasing elongated spiral pattern achieved via threading, a testament to ancestral hair traditions, emphasizing holistic hair care, self-expression, and intricate styling within narratives of Black hair traditions and mixed-race hair narratives.](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/portrait-of-woman-with-low-porosity-spirals-in-madras-head-wrap.jpg)

![Captured in monochrome, the child](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/portrait-of-a-child-with-beaded-braids-black-and-white-beauty.jpg)

## Reflection

The story of textured hair, from its ancient roots as a profound marker of identity to its contemporary status as a symbol of resilience, is a living testament to the enduring spirit of Black and mixed-race communities. The journey towards the CROWN Act is but one chapter in this vast, ongoing chronicle ❉ a chapter etched with struggle, yet illuminated by a fierce determination to reclaim and celebrate what was once systematically devalued. The very coils and spirals that have been deemed “unprofessional” or “unruly” are, in truth, an architectural marvel, designed by millennia of adaptation, carrying the ancestral wisdom of sun-kissed lands. 

As we consider the path that led to this legislative moment, we are reminded that true wellness, for hair as for soul, flows from authenticity. It calls us to listen to the whispers of tradition, to honor the natural inclination of each strand, and to recognize the inherent beauty woven into every pattern of growth. The CROWN Act, while a legal instrument, also serves as a cultural marker, signifying a societal shift towards a more inclusive understanding of beauty and belonging. It stands as a beacon, guiding us toward a future where heritage is celebrated, not suppressed, and where every individual can wear their crown with unwavering pride, knowing its history, its science, and its sacred place in the tapestry of human experience. 

![This evocative monochrome study honors ancestral braiding artistry, showcasing a woman adorned with a braided crown that beautifully celebrates her afro textured hair and cultural heritage, while demonstrating masterful hair manipulation techniques that have been passed down through generations, for expressive styling.](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/monochrome-portrait-woman-braided-crown-hairstyle-afro-textured-hair-heritage.jpg)

![Embracing the ancestral heritage of holistic hair care, clear water enriches fenugreek seeds, releasing their potent benefits. This ancient ingredient nourishes Black hair traditions and mixed-race hair narratives, promoting expressive styling and resilient formations for generations](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/fenugreek-seeds-being-dosed-with-water-drops-close-up-black-and-white.jpg)

## References

- Byrd, Ayana D. and Lori L. Tharps. <i>Hair Story: Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America_. St. Martin’s Publishing, 2001.

- Dawson, G. A. Karl, K. A. & Peluchette, J. V. Hair matters: Toward understanding natural black hair bias in the workplace. _Journal of Leadership & Organizational Studies_, 26(3), 389-401, 2019.

- Hrdy, Daniel. Quantitative Hair Form Variation in Seven Populations. _American Journal of Physical Anthropology_, 39(1), 7-18, 1973.

- Koch, S.L. Tridico, S.R. Bernard, B.A. Shriver, M.D. & Jablonski, N.G. The biology of human hair: A multidisciplinary review. _American Journal of Human Biology_, 32(1), 2020.

- Opie, L. & Phillips, S. The social construction of black women’s hairstyles: Identity, politics, and power. _Ethnic & Racial Studies_, 38(11), 1876-1891, 2015.

- Stiel, L. et al. Hair relaxers and breast cancer: a systematic review. _Journal of Environmental and Public Health_, 2015.

## Glossary

### [Civil Rights Act](https://roothea.co/area/civil-rights-act/)

Meaning ❉ The Civil Rights Act, a landmark legislative measure, gently cleared pathways for individuals to express their personal identity, extending its protective reach to the deeply personal realm of hair.

### [CROWN Act Precedent](https://roothea.co/area/crown-act-precedent/)

Meaning ❉ A CROWN Act Precedent marks a pivotal legal determination that shapes the understanding of hair discrimination, particularly for individuals with textured hair.

### [CROWN Act Heritage](https://roothea.co/area/crown-act-heritage/)

Meaning ❉ The CROWN Act Heritage denotes the ongoing societal and personal impact stemming from legislation that protects the right to wear natural Black and mixed-race hair textures without discrimination in schools and workplaces.

### [Textured Hair](https://roothea.co/area/textured-hair/)

Meaning ❉ Textured hair describes the natural hair structure characterized by its unique curl patterns, ranging from expansive waves to closely wound coils, a common trait across individuals of Black and mixed heritage.

### [Hair Discrimination](https://roothea.co/area/hair-discrimination/)

Meaning ❉ Hair Discrimination, a subtle yet impactful bias, refers to the differential and often unfavorable treatment of individuals based on the natural characteristics or chosen styles of their hair, especially those textures and forms historically worn by Black and mixed-race persons.

### [CROWN Act Significance](https://roothea.co/area/crown-act-significance/)

Meaning ❉ The CROWN Act Significance marks a pivotal legislative affirmation, gently affirming the right to wear natural hair textures and protective styles without discrimination.

### [Crown Care](https://roothea.co/area/crown-care/)

Meaning ❉ "Crown Care" for textured hair, a term spoken with gentle reverence, represents far more than superficial styling; it is a holistic philosophy guiding the sustained well-being of Black and mixed-race hair.

### [Cultural Identity](https://roothea.co/area/cultural-identity/)

Meaning ❉ Cultural Identity, when considered through the lens of textured hair, represents a soft, abiding connection to the deep-seated wisdom of ancestral hair practices and the shared experiences of a community.

### [CROWN Act Movement](https://roothea.co/area/crown-act-movement/)

Meaning ❉ The CROWN Act Movement represents a legislative effort to prohibit discrimination based on hair texture and protective styles, such as locs, braids, and twists, within professional and academic environments.

### [Crown Significance](https://roothea.co/area/crown-significance/)

Meaning ❉ Crown Significance refers to the distinct importance of the apex region of the scalp, particularly for individuals with textured, Black, and mixed-race hair.

## Explore Your Heritage

### [What Does the CROWN Act Signify for Hair Heritage?](https://roothea.co/question/what-does-the-crown-act-signify-for-hair-heritage/)
![The image captures women’s involvement in food preparation alongside their head coverings reflective of cultural heritage, suggesting shared ancestral knowledge, with possible references to ingredients and practices that resonate with holistic textured hair wellness and traditions of beauty within their communities.](https://roothea.co/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/women-sharing-food-preparation-ancestral-heritage-and-hair-care-traditions.jpg)

### [What Are the Historical Biases That Cause Textured Hair to Face Workplace Judgment?](https://roothea.co/question/what-are-the-historical-biases-that-cause-textured-hair-to-face-workplace-judgment/)
![The monochrome portrait unveils the expressive potential of short, coiled textured hair, illuminated by dynamic shadows that accent the face. The image celebrates the confluence of ancestral heritage and modern styling techniques, highlighting the beauty and adaptability of natural mixed race textured hair.](https://roothea.co/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/monochrome-portrait-radiant-woman-short-coiled-hairstyle-with-striking-shadow.jpg)

### [What Ancestral Methods Supported Textured Hair Resilience against Sun?](https://roothea.co/question/what-ancestral-methods-supported-textured-hair-resilience-against-sun/)
![The monochrome portrait captures the beauty and radiance of a confident woman with a short, coiled Afro, her textured hair a statement of natural beauty and heritage. Her joyous expression, coupled with the cut-out top and tasteful jewelry, celebrates self-expression through personal style, rooted in cultural heritage.](https://roothea.co/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/radiant-woman-laughing-against-solid-backdrop-with-coiled-afro-hairstyle.jpg)

### [What Historical Events Led to Textured Hair Discrimination Laws?](https://roothea.co/question/what-historical-events-led-to-textured-hair-discrimination-laws/)
![The black and white portrait evokes timeless elegance as the model](https://roothea.co/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/striking-portrait-of-young-woman-with-natural-afro-textured-hair.jpg)

### [What Historical Biases against Textured Hair Still Exist?](https://roothea.co/question/what-historical-biases-against-textured-hair-still-exist/)
![The black and white portrait showcases the beauty of Afro coiled hair, creating an intimate connection with the viewer. The lighting adds depth to the image, capturing the essence of her texture and heritage, emphasizing the importance of self-expression and natural beauty within beauty standards.](https://roothea.co/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/elegant-portrait-of-a-beautiful-woman-with-natural-afro-hair-style.jpg)

### [Can the CROWN Act Truly Shift Societal Perceptions of Textured Hair Heritage?](https://roothea.co/question/can-the-crown-act-truly-shift-societal-perceptions-of-textured-hair-heritage/)
![Within a light-filled studio, an artist immersed in the creative act emphasizes the beauty of textured hair and its cultural significance. Each detail—from the unique geometric adornment to the focused expression—contributes to the captivating visual narrative of artistic expression rooted in heritage and innovation.](https://roothea.co/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/artist-in-studio-creating-expressionist-work-with-textured-hairstyle-details.jpg)

### [How Does the CROWN Act Affirm Textured Hair Heritage in Modern Society?](https://roothea.co/question/how-does-the-crown-act-affirm-textured-hair-heritage-in-modern-society/)
![This stark portrait reflects the confidence inherent in self-expression through culturally relevant hairstyles. The tapered cut and defined texture capture a contemporary spin on timeless Black hair narratives, blending heritage with individual style.](https://roothea.co/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/monochrome-portrait-of-a-woman-with-textured-hair-and-tapered-cut.jpg)

### [What Historical Struggles Did Textured Hair Face against Eurocentric Beauty Standards?](https://roothea.co/question/what-historical-struggles-did-textured-hair-face-against-eurocentric-beauty-standards/)
![The delicate placement of a patterned headwrap upon the girl, shows intergenerational care, and respect for Black hair traditions and beauty standards. This visual conveys ancestral strength, and the beauty of cultural heritage, and the importance of shared wellness practices passed down through generations, defining identity.](https://roothea.co/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/young-girl-receiving-traditional-headwrap-a-black-and-white-portrait.jpg)

### [How Does the CROWN Act Honor Textured Hair's Ancestral Journey?](https://roothea.co/question/how-does-the-crown-act-honor-textured-hairs-ancestral-journey/)
![This striking black and white image honors the beauty of naturally coiled hair, blending modern fashion with ancestral pride, highlighting holistic hair care practices, and encouraging expressive styling within Black heritage, promoting discussions around textured hair forms and diverse hair narratives.](https://roothea.co/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/striking-portrait-of-a-woman-with-bold-afro-and-sleek-attire.jpg)

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            "description": "Meaning ❉ The CROWN Act Significance marks a pivotal legislative affirmation, gently affirming the right to wear natural hair textures and protective styles without discrimination."
        },
        {
            "@type": "DefinedTerm",
            "@id": "https://roothea.co/area/crown-care/",
            "name": "Crown Care",
            "url": "https://roothea.co/area/crown-care/",
            "description": "Meaning ❉ \"Crown Care\" for textured hair, a term spoken with gentle reverence, represents far more than superficial styling; it is a holistic philosophy guiding the sustained well-being of Black and mixed-race hair."
        },
        {
            "@type": "DefinedTerm",
            "@id": "https://roothea.co/area/crown-act-movement/",
            "name": "CROWN Act Movement",
            "url": "https://roothea.co/area/crown-act-movement/",
            "description": "Meaning ❉ The CROWN Act Movement represents a legislative effort to prohibit discrimination based on hair texture and protective styles, such as locs, braids, and twists, within professional and academic environments."
        },
        {
            "@type": "DefinedTerm",
            "@id": "https://roothea.co/area/crown-significance/",
            "name": "Crown Significance",
            "url": "https://roothea.co/area/crown-significance/",
            "description": "Meaning ❉ Crown Significance refers to the distinct importance of the apex region of the scalp, particularly for individuals with textured, Black, and mixed-race hair."
        }
    ]
}
```


---

**Original URL:** https://roothea.co/question/what-historical-biases-against-textured-hair-led-to-the-crown-act/
