Roots
The story of textured hair in America is not merely one of aesthetic preferences or evolving styles; it is a profound journey woven into the very fabric of identity, resistance, and survival. For generations, the strands coiling from our scalps have carried the whispers of ancestral wisdom, speaking volumes of cultural heritage and resilience against a tide of imposed standards. To truly grasp the historical acts that impacted textured hair acceptance in America, we must first descend into the deep well of its origins, understanding how its biological essence became entangled with social constructs and legislative mandates.
Before the brutal rupture of the transatlantic slave trade, hair in many African societies was a vibrant language, communicating lineage, marital status, age, wealth, and even religious beliefs. Hairstyling was a communal ritual, a time for connection and the transmission of knowledge. These intricate traditions, often involving hours of careful work, were deeply tied to a person’s spiritual well-being and social standing. The forced arrival of Africans on American shores, however, sought to sever these profound connections, beginning with the dehumanizing act of shaving heads, a deliberate attempt to strip individuals of their identity and cultural markers.
How Did Enslavement Alter Hair’s Heritage and Care?
The institution of slavery systematically dismantled ancestral practices. Stripped of their traditional tools, oils, and the communal time for care, enslaved Africans faced immense challenges in maintaining their hair. The meticulous styling that once signified tribal affiliation or social standing was replaced by conditions that often led to matted, tangled, and damaged hair. This period saw the emergence of a forced aesthetic, where the tightly coiled hair of enslaved people was denigrated and deemed incompatible with prevailing beauty standards.
The harsh realities of plantation life dictated a different kind of hair practice. Sundays, often the only day of rest, became a time for rudimentary hair care, often using whatever limited materials were available, such as kerosene, bacon grease, or butter, to attempt to manage the hair. This communal Sunday ritual, though born of necessity, also became a quiet act of defiance and a way to preserve a semblance of shared heritage. Enslaved individuals found ways to express individuality even after their heads had been shaved, using what they had.
- Shaving ❉ A primary act of dehumanization upon arrival, intended to erase cultural identity and sever ties to ancestral practices.
- Limited Resources ❉ Lack of traditional African oils, combs, and communal time forced improvised care with harsh, often damaging, materials.
- Survival Styling ❉ Some historical accounts suggest enslaved people used braids to conceal seeds or even map escape routes, turning hair into a tool of resistance.
The journey of textured hair in America began with a profound rupture, as ancestral traditions were violently disrupted, yet resilience found ways to persist.
The notion of “good hair” versus “bad hair” also took root during this period. “Good hair” became synonymous with straighter, more European-like textures, often associated with lighter skin and perceived higher status within the oppressive hierarchy of the slave system. Those with hair closer to European features were sometimes granted more desirable positions, laying a foundational bias that would persist for centuries.
Ritual
As we consider the historical currents that shaped the acceptance of textured hair in America, we move from foundational understandings to the lived experiences, the rituals, both imposed and reclaimed, that have defined this journey. The quest for acceptance, often intertwined with survival, has seen textured hair become a canvas for societal pressures and a banner for self-determination. It is a story of adaptation, of enduring wisdom, and of a persistent spirit that has continuously sought to redefine beauty on its own terms.
The period following emancipation, often termed “the great oppression” by some historians, saw Black individuals feeling compelled to alter their hair to fit into mainstream white society. This pressure to assimilate led to the widespread adoption of hair straightening methods, driven by a desire for social and economic advancement.
What Early Practices Shaped Hair Alteration and Acceptance?
The late 19th and early 20th centuries saw the popularization of tools and chemical solutions designed to straighten textured hair. The hot comb, a metal tool heated over fire or a stove, became a common instrument for smoothing hair. This practice, while offering a semblance of conformity, often came at a cost, leading to scalp burns and damage.
The accidental discovery of the first chemical hair relaxer by Garrett Augustus Morgan Sr. in the early 1900s, initially intended for fabric protection, marked a significant shift, offering a chemical means to loosen curl patterns.
The emergence of entrepreneurs like Madam C.J. Walker, who popularized the hot comb and developed hair growth products, shampoos, and ointments, significantly impacted the Black beauty industry. By the mid-1920s, straight hair was widely perceived as a signal of middle-class status, solidifying its association with social and economic mobility. While lauded for her business acumen, Walker’s legacy also sparks discussion about the perpetuation of Eurocentric beauty standards.
| Practice Hot Comb Use |
| Description and Heritage Link A heated metal comb used to straighten hair, reflecting a widespread desire for conformity in the post-emancipation era. This practice, while offering a path to social acceptance, often resulted in physical harm to the scalp. |
| Practice Chemical Relaxers |
| Description and Heritage Link Formulas, initially discovered by chance, that chemically alter the hair's curl pattern, allowing for straightened styles. These products, though offering a perceived ease of styling, often contained harsh chemicals. |
| Practice Headwraps (Tignon Laws) |
| Description and Heritage Link Laws in 18th-century New Orleans, like the Tignon Laws, mandated that free Creole women of color cover their elaborately styled hair with scarves, aiming to diminish their social standing. However, these women transformed the wraps into vibrant statements of resistance. |
| Practice These practices illustrate the complex interplay between imposed societal norms and the enduring spirit of self-expression within textured hair heritage. |
The Tignon Laws of 1786 in Louisiana provide a poignant example of legislative acts directly impacting textured hair acceptance. These laws mandated that free Creole women of color, who wore their elaborate hairstyles with regality, cover their hair with a tignon or scarf. The purpose was to signify their perceived lower status compared to white women and to prevent them from “enticing” white men. However, these women, with remarkable spirit, transformed these mandated head coverings into vibrant, ornate fashion statements, turning an act of oppression into a form of cultural resistance.
The desire for social acceptance in America often led to hair alteration, yet ancestral ingenuity found ways to transform imposed restrictions into expressions of cultural pride.
This historical period solidified the idea that altered, straightened hair was a prerequisite for social and economic success, a perception that continues to influence hair grooming decisions for many Black individuals even today.
Relay
Our understanding of textured hair acceptance in America deepens as we move into the complexities of the 20th and 21st centuries, where the legacy of historical acts continues to echo. This is where the intertwined paths of identity, policy, and scientific understanding truly converge, revealing how the fight for hair acceptance is, at its core, a fight for human dignity and the recognition of a rich heritage. The narrative here is not linear; it is a relay race of resistance and reclamation, where each generation builds upon the courage of those who came before.
How Did Mid-20th Century Movements Reshape Hair Identity?
The mid-20th century witnessed a powerful cultural shift with the emergence of the “Black Is Beautiful” movement in the 1960s, a direct extension of the Civil Rights and Black Power movements. This period marked a conscious rejection of Eurocentric beauty standards and a profound embrace of Black physical features, including natural hair.
The afro, a voluminous and natural hairstyle, became a potent symbol of Black pride, power, and resistance against oppression. Activists like Angela Davis sported the afro as a public declaration of self-love and solidarity, transforming hair into a political statement. This era saw a significant uptick in individuals wearing their natural kinks and coils, challenging the long-held notion that straightened hair was a necessity for social standing.
Despite this cultural awakening, the legal landscape lagged. The first natural hair discrimination cases did not appear until the 1970s. In 1976, the U.S. Court of Appeals for the Seventh Circuit upheld a race discrimination lawsuit against an employer for bias against afros in the case of Jenkins v.
Blue Cross Mutual Hospital Insurance. While afros were technically permitted in workplaces, the pervasive social pressure to conform to Eurocentric hair standards continued to impact hair choices.
What Contemporary Challenges Persist for Textured Hair?
Even as the natural hair movement gained momentum, assimilationist pressures persisted. The 1980s and 1990s saw a resurgence in pressed and permed hair, influenced by hair-care advertisements. Yet, this period also saw the popularization of protective styles like braids and cornrows, sometimes sparking legal disputes, as seen in a 1981 case where a Black woman sued American Airlines for demanding she not wear braids.
Today, hair discrimination remains a persistent challenge, rooted in systemic racism that often defines “professionalism” through a narrow, Eurocentric lens. Studies reveal a stark reality ❉ Black women are 1.5 times more likely to be sent home from the workplace because of their hair. A 2020 study by Michigan State University and Duke University, “The Natural Hair Bias in Job Recruitment,” found that Black women with natural hairstyles are less likely to receive job interviews than white women or Black women with straightened hair, and are often perceived as less professional and less competent.
This bias extends to educational settings, where Black students, some as young as five years old, face disciplinary actions, suspensions, or even expulsion for wearing culturally significant hairstyles like afros, locs, or braids. These policies, often framed as promoting “neatness” or “hygiene,” disproportionately affect Black children and adults, hindering educational opportunities and employment prospects.
The legal fight for hair acceptance continues with initiatives like the CROWN Act (Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair). This legislation, first introduced in 2019, seeks to prohibit discrimination based on hair texture and protective hairstyles. As of this writing, it has been signed into law in several states, but a federal law has yet to pass. This act is a direct response to the historical and ongoing discrimination faced by Black individuals, aiming to strengthen protections against hair-based bias in workplaces and schools.
The journey of textured hair acceptance is a testament to the enduring spirit of Black and mixed-race communities. It is a story of reclaiming heritage, challenging imposed standards, and advocating for the right to exist authentically. The science of hair, its unique biology, is inextricably linked to this cultural narrative. Understanding the helical structure of textured hair, its natural elasticity, and its capacity for diverse styling reveals not a deviation from a norm, but a distinct and beautiful expression of human diversity, a heritage that deserves celebration and protection.
- Tignon Laws (1786) ❉ Mandated head coverings for free Creole women of color in New Orleans, an attempt to visually mark their perceived lower social standing.
- Post-Emancipation Hair Straightening ❉ The rise of hot combs and chemical relaxers as tools for assimilation into Eurocentric beauty standards for social and economic advancement.
- Black Is Beautiful Movement (1960s) ❉ A cultural and political assertion of Black identity, where natural afros became symbols of pride and resistance against Eurocentric beauty norms.
- Workplace and School Discrimination ❉ Ongoing biases against natural hair, leading to job loss, denied opportunities, and disciplinary actions for students, rooted in systemic racism and narrow definitions of professionalism.
- The CROWN Act ❉ Modern legislative efforts to prohibit discrimination based on hair texture and protective hairstyles, recognizing the deep connection between hair and racial identity.
Reflection
The exploration of textured hair acceptance in America reveals a profound narrative, one that extends far beyond superficial appearances. It is a story of enduring heritage, of ancestral practices disrupted and then defiantly reclaimed, of legal battles fought not just for hair, but for the very soul of identity. Each historical act, from the forced shaving of enslaved Africans to the contemporary fight for CROWN Act legislation, underscores the deep connection between textured hair and the lived experiences of Black and mixed-race communities.
Roothea’s ‘Soul of a Strand’ ethos reminds us that hair is a living archive, holding within its coils the wisdom of generations, the echoes of resilience, and the power of self-expression. The journey towards full acceptance is ongoing, yet the progress made, fueled by unwavering spirit and a deep reverence for heritage, speaks to a future where every strand is celebrated for its inherent beauty and its profound story.
References
- Byrd, A. D. & Tharps, L. L. (2001). Hair Story ❉ Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. St. Martin’s Press.
- Patton, T. O. (2006). Hey Girl, Am I More Than My Hair? African American Women and Their Struggles with Beauty, Body Image, and Hair. Peter Lang.
- Robinson, K. A. (2011). The Hair Story ❉ The Hair, The Politics, The History. Lulu.com.
- Thompson, M. S. (2009). Black Women and the Complexities of Hair ❉ A Critical Examination of Hair Practices and Identity. Palgrave Macmillan.
- Abdullah, M. (1998). The Cultural Politics of Hair ❉ Race, Gender, and the Black Female Body. Routledge.
- Banks, I. (2000). Hair Matters ❉ Beauty, Power, and Black Women’s Consciousness. New York University Press.
- Rosette, A. S. & Dumas, T. L. (2007). The Hair-raising Dilemma ❉ The Effects of Hair Texture on Black Women’s Professional Outcomes. Journal of Applied Psychology .
- Mbilishaka, A. (2020). Hair Love ❉ A Black Hair Story. Self-published.
- Perception Institute. (2016). Good Hair Study .
- Koval, C. Z. & Rosette, A. S. (2020). The Natural Hair Bias in Job Recruitment. Social Psychological and Personality Science .