What does the CROWN Act aim to achieve for textured hair?

Roots

The very strands that crown us carry stories, whispered from ancestral lands across oceans and generations. For Black and mixed-race people, textured hair has always been a living archive, a direct connection to a vibrant lineage. It holds the echoes of ancient rites, the resilience forged through oppression, and the enduring spirit of identity. The CROWN Act, a legislative undertaking that seeks to create a respectful and open world for natural hair, reaches beyond legal statutes; it is a profound affirmation of this inherited legacy, a recognition that the coiled, kinky, and wavy textures adorning millions are not mere aesthetic choices, but deeply rooted expressions of self and kin.

Consider, if you will, the biological marvel that is textured hair. Each helix, born from the scalp, follows a journey guided by its unique follicular shape—an elliptical rather than round cross-section, causing the hair shaft to twist and coil as it grows. This inherent structure grants textured hair its remarkable elasticity, its glorious volume, and its often deceptive strength, characteristics traditionally honored in many African communities. Scientific understanding now allows us to appreciate the micro-anatomical reasons for its characteristic curl patterns, a physical reality that has, tragically, often been misjudged and penalized in societies that hold Eurocentric beauty standards as a universal norm.

The CROWN Act acknowledges that the unique biology of textured hair is inextricably bound to a rich heritage, deserving of legal protection against bias and unfair judgment.

Across the African continent, hair was never simply about superficial appearance. It served as a sophisticated visual language. Different styles could communicate a person’s age, marital status, social standing, tribal affiliation, and even spiritual beliefs. The Himba people of Southwest Africa, for instance, traditionally style their hair with thick braids adorned with otjize, a mixture of ochre, butter, and herbs, a practice that signifies cultural pride and offers a visible connection to their ancestry.

The intricate patterns of cornrows, often called “canerows” in the Caribbean, were not just practical styles; they served as identifiers showcasing ethnic backgrounds and geographical locations, even carrying secret messages during periods of extreme hardship, like the routes to freedom during chattel slavery. This deep, communicative tradition underscores that hair was, and remains, a vital component of identity, far removed from arbitrary rules of “professionalism.”

Understanding Hair’s Ancestral Design

From a biological perspective, what makes textured hair distinct lies in its structural makeup, which, when coupled with historical practices, reveals a deep interplay between natural form and cultural reverence.

• Follicular Shape ❉ The elliptical or flattened shape of the follicle dictates the degree of curl, causing the hair strand to coil as it exits the scalp. This creates tighter curls and coils, affecting how natural oils travel down the hair shaft.
• Cuticle Layering ❉ Textured hair often exhibits a raised cuticle layer, which can contribute to its natural dryness compared to straighter hair types. Ancestral care practices, rich in moisturizing ingredients, intuitively addressed this particular biological need, long before modern science articulated it.
• Density and Volume ❉ While individual strands may seem finer, the sheer number of hair follicles and their natural coiling patterns often result in greater overall density and volume, offering a majestic crown that has been celebrated in countless traditional adornments.

The CROWN Act’s reach extends to these intrinsic characteristics, aiming to dismantle the legal and societal structures that have penalized natural hair textures, thereby restoring reverence for hair’s biological and historical forms. It seeks to undo centuries of imposed uniformity, allowing hair to exist in its natural state without fear of penalty. This protection extends to styles such as Braids, Locs, Twists, and Afros, all of which are deeply rooted in Black and mixed-race cultural identity.

Where Did the Idea of Unprofessional Hair Originate?

The notion that certain hair textures or styles are “unprofessional” is a relatively recent construct within the long human history of hair, deeply tied to the rise of Eurocentric beauty standards during colonial periods and their enduring legacy. This idea, rather than being an objective assessment of competence, served as a tool for social control and the policing of Black bodies. Historical roots of this bias stretch back to the era of enslavement, when colonizers often shaved the heads of captured Africans, a dehumanizing act designed to strip them of their cultural markers and identities.

Later, after emancipation, laws like the Tignon Laws of 1786 in Louisiana mandated that free Black women cover their hair with a knotted headdress, ostensibly to prevent them from attracting white men, but in reality, to assert social hierarchy and control. This legal imposition marks a direct historical link between legislation, hair, and the systematic suppression of Black identity. Such historical precedents reveal that the idea of “unprofessional” hair is not a neutral concept; it is a direct continuation of systemic racism.

A 2023 research study found that Black women’s hair is 2.5 times as likely as white women’s hair to be perceived as “unprofessional,” with two-thirds (66%) of Black women changing their hair for job interviews. This stark statistic underscores the persistent societal pressure to conform, a pressure that the CROWN Act directly challenges.

Ritual

The journey of textured hair care has always been deeply personal and communal, a ritual passed down through generations, shaped by necessity, creativity, and profound cultural wisdom. The CROWN Act recognizes the importance of these living rituals, not just as private acts, but as expressions that deserve protection in the public square. When we consider the hands that first braided hair on the African continent, the shared stories during styling sessions, or the whispered remedies for dryness, we begin to appreciate hair care as a vibrant thread connecting us to a collective ancestry.

For millennia, African communities developed intricate hair care practices using readily available natural ingredients. Shea butter, often harvested from the karite tree, served as a potent moisturizer and sealant, its rich fatty acids nourishing both scalp and strand. Coconut oil, aloe vera, and various plant extracts were also staple ingredients, intuitively understood for their protective and restorative properties. These ingredients were not merely functional; their gathering and application were often interwoven with community gatherings, storytelling, and the sharing of knowledge, making the act of care a ritual of connection and cultural continuity.

The CROWN Act stands as a sentinel, guarding the communal memory held within styling rituals and the tools that bring textured hair to life.

The very tools used in these styling practices also carry historical resonance. The earliest known hair combs, often crafted from wood or bone, date back thousands of years. The Afro pick, for instance, has origins believed to stretch back nearly 6000 years, an ancient tool designed to navigate and shape the unique density of coiled textures. These objects are not just implements; they are artifacts of ingenuity, reflecting a deep understanding of textured hair’s specific needs and the cultural artistry applied to its care.

How Does the CROWN Act Protect Styling Heritage?

The CROWN Act directly addresses the policing of natural hairstyles, which are often integral to Black and mixed-race heritage. The legislation prohibits discrimination based on hair texture and specific protective styles such as Braids, Locs, Twists, Bantu Knots, and Afros. This protection is vital because these styles are not merely trends; they are direct links to ancestral practices and cultural expression.

Consider the profound significance of protective styling. These styles, which tuck away the ends of the hair, shield it from environmental damage and reduce manipulation, have ancestral roots across Africa. For enslaved Africans, these styles became a means of silent protest and a way to resist cultural erasure, providing a connection to their homeland and a reminder of their worth.

The act of braiding in particular was, and remains, a deeply communal and intimate experience in many African cultures. Mothers, sisters, and friends would gather, sharing stories and strengthening bonds, while preserving cultural identity through the rhythmic motion of braiding.

The CROWN Act ensures that this legacy of adaptive and artistic styling is not penalized in modern workplaces or schools. This means:

• Preservation of Identity ❉ Individuals can wear styles deeply connected to their cultural identity without fear of losing employment or educational opportunities.
• Economic Relief ❉ The economic burden of constantly straightening or altering hair to conform to Eurocentric standards, which can cost significantly over time, is alleviated. This allows individuals to invest in care practices that honor their hair’s natural state.
• Health Considerations ❉ By allowing natural and protective styles, the Act indirectly supports healthier hair practices, reducing reliance on chemical relaxers or excessive heat, which have been linked to adverse health outcomes.

Traditional Tools and Their Modern Echoes

The tools of hair care have evolved, yet their purpose often mirrors the needs understood by our ancestors. The continuity between past and present practices is a testament to the enduring wisdom surrounding textured hair.

The CROWN Act, through its protective stance on natural hairstyles, reinforces the dignity of these historical practices and the tools that bring them to fruition, ensuring that individuals can freely honor their hair heritage in all spaces.

Relay

The journey of textured hair from ancestral veneration to modern legal protection is a powerful relay, a passing of the baton through generations of resilience and cultural affirmation. The CROWN Act represents a crucial leg in this race, striving to rectify historical injustices and secure a future where the beauty of natural hair is universally respected, not merely tolerated. It addresses a systemic issue that has profoundly impacted Black and mixed-race communities for centuries, acknowledging that hair discrimination is, at its core, racial discrimination.

Historically, policies that prohibited natural hairstyles served to preserve white spaces and enforce Eurocentric professionalism. These rules justified removing Black children from classrooms and Black adults from employment, creating significant barriers to education and livelihood. The CROWN Act aims to dismantle these exclusionary practices by expanding the definition of race in anti-discrimination laws to explicitly include hair texture and protective styles. This legal clarification means that denying opportunities based on someone’s Afro, braids, locs, twists, or Bantu knots becomes unlawful discrimination.

The CROWN Act’s legal framework seeks to bridge the chasm between historic prejudice and equitable societal acceptance for textured hair, honoring its long-standing heritage.

The movement for the CROWN Act is a direct response to a long history of systemic bias. For example, a 2019 study by Dove found that Black women were 80 percent more likely than non-Black women to report having to alter their hair to fit in at work. The same study indicated that Black women with natural or braided hair were consistently rated as “less ready” for job performance.

This widespread bias highlights the enduring social and economic consequences of hair discrimination, consequences that the CROWN Act seeks to mitigate by providing tangible legal recourse. Over 44% of Black women workers in the United States live in states that have yet to pass CROWN Act legislation, underscoring the ongoing vulnerability to hair-based discrimination.

How Does the CROWN Act Correct Historical Legal Oversights?

Prior to the CROWN Act, federal anti-discrimination laws, such as Title VII of the Civil Rights Act of 1964, did not explicitly define race to include hair texture or protective hairstyles. This created a loophole, allowing employers and schools to engage in what was effectively race-based discrimination under the guise of “grooming policies” or “professionalism” standards. The 1976 case of Jenkins v. Blue Cross Mutual Hospital Insurance, while upholding a race discrimination lawsuit against an employer for bias against afros, did not broadly extend protections against hair discrimination, leaving much ambiguity.

The CROWN Act intervenes directly to close this loophole. By explicitly adding hair texture and protective hairstyles to the definition of race, it removes the legal ambiguity that has allowed discriminatory practices to persist. This legal redefinition is significant because it acknowledges that these hair characteristics are not merely “choices” but are inextricably linked to racial identity and heritage. It codifies a truth that Black communities have known for centuries ❉ hair is a physical marker of race that has been historically targeted for subjugation.

The Impact on Public Spaces and Opportunities

The CROWN Act’s influence extends to various public accommodations and educational settings, working to ensure equitable access and treatment.

1. Workplaces ❉ The Act prohibits discriminatory hiring practices, employment conditions, and termination based on natural hair. It aims to prevent situations where Black individuals are denied jobs or promotions because their natural hair is deemed “unprofessional.”
2. Educational Institutions ❉ It protects students from being disciplined, suspended, or expelled due to their hair texture or protective styles. This ensures that Black children can attend school without facing penalties for wearing culturally significant hairstyles, which previously led to missed instructional time.
3. Housing and Public Accommodations ❉ While its primary focus began in employment and education, the federal CROWN Act aims to broaden protections to housing programs and public accommodations, ensuring broader societal acceptance.

The CROWN Act serves as a legislative acknowledgment of the ongoing need for legal protections against discrimination based on phenotypical markers that signify race. It offers a pathway to restore dignity and respect for cultural expression, recognizing the inherent value and history held within every strand of textured hair. This legislative endeavor is a testament to the enduring power of advocacy, drawing from centuries of resistance against hair-based oppression, striving for a future where ancestral heritage is celebrated, not suppressed.

Reflection

The journey through the intricate world of textured hair and the CROWN Act reveals more than just legislative intent; it uncovers a profound meditation on the enduring legacy of our strands. Each coil, every loc, and every braid carries within it not only the blueprint of our biology but also the whispers of ancient hands, the echoes of communal rituals, and the defiant spirit of those who wore their heritage as a crown despite attempts to dim its luster. The CROWN Act, in its legislative reach, is a contemporary echo of this ancestral wisdom, a formal recognition of what the soul of a strand has always known ❉ our hair is a sacred extension of who we are, woven from history and destined to shape our future.

This Act, therefore, does not simply alter legal definitions; it invites a societal shift in perception, a reimagining of beauty and professionalism that is expansive enough to honor all expressions of human identity. It calls upon us to look at textured hair, not as something to be tamed or hidden, but as a vibrant testament to survival, creativity, and unbroken lineage. The legacy of the CROWN Act is not solely in the policies it changes today, but in the pathways it clears for tomorrow, allowing coming generations to walk freely, their natural hair a visible celebration of their rich and undeniable heritage, unburdened by past prejudices. It promises a world where the stories held within each strand can finally unfold, respected and revered.