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Roots

Consider the resilient strands that crown us, a living testament to journeys spanning continents and epochs. Each coil, each wave, a whisper of stories passed down through generations, holding the genetic wisdom of ancestors. When we speak of textured hair, we speak of a lineage, a profound connection to the earth and its bounteous gifts. Our exploration begins not with scientific jargon, but with an echo from the source, a meditation on how the very compounds birthed from the soil have sustained and celebrated this heritage.

How have these ancient plant compounds, meticulously gathered and applied by foremothers and healers, shaped the resilience and splendor of textured hair across time? This inquiry into the deep past reveals not just ingredients, but a philosophy of reciprocity with nature, a care ritual interwoven with identity and survival.

The photograph explores the intersection of identity and heritage as seen through the texture of Black hair, the portrait inspires contemplation on ancestral connections and the rich legacy of hair care traditions while illuminating the individual's beauty and strength.

Hair Anatomy and Its Ancestral Resonance

Textured hair, with its unique helical structure, presents distinct needs and characteristics. Its inherent curl patterns mean that natural oils, vital for protection and luster, travel down the strand with greater difficulty compared to straight hair. This structural difference, a biological marvel, also renders textured hair more susceptible to dryness and breakage. Ancestral wisdom, however, understood these vulnerabilities long before the advent of modern microscopy.

Communities observed, learned, and adapted, turning to the flora that surrounded them for solutions. They saw the hair not as a separate entity, but as an extension of the body’s vitality, mirroring the health of the spirit and the strength of the community.

The plant compounds our forebears utilized were chosen for their capacity to address the precise requirements of coily, kinky, and wavy strands. These early practitioners, observing the effects of various botanicals, discovered nature’s emollients, humectants, and fortifiers. They intuitively grasped the importance of sealing moisture into the hair cuticle, providing slip for detangling, and soothing the scalp – practices now validated by contemporary trichology. It is this intergenerational knowledge, passed down through oral traditions and hands-on teaching, that forms the foundation of textured hair care, a profound legacy that continues to inform modern approaches.

Women braid textured hair, passing down ancestral techniques in a scene celebrating Black hair traditions. This practice demonstrates deep commitment to heritage while emphasizing beauty, self-expression, and the significance of communal support for holistic hair wellness.

Ancestral Plant Compounds ❉ Nature’s Apothecary for Hair

Many ancestral plant compounds served as foundational elements in traditional textured hair care. These botanical allies, often wild-harvested or cultivated with reverence, offered a spectrum of benefits, from deep conditioning to scalp invigoration. Their efficacy was rooted in their intrinsic composition, a complex interplay of fatty acids, vitamins, minerals, and bioactive compounds. These were not singular ingredients, but rather living systems, each contributing to the holistic well-being of the hair and the individual.

Ancestral plant compounds, understood through generations, were nature’s precise answer to the unique needs of textured hair.

Consider the enduring power of Shea Butter (Vitellaria paradoxa), a cornerstone of West African hair care for centuries. This rich, unrefined butter, extracted from the nuts of the shea tree, is a complex lipid replete with oleic, stearic, linoleic, and palmitic acids. These fatty acids provide unparalleled emollience, acting as a protective barrier on the hair shaft, reducing moisture loss, and improving elasticity.

Its unsaponifiable components, including triterpenes and cinnamic acid esters, also offer anti-inflammatory properties, soothing the scalp and creating a conducive environment for healthy growth. The process of shea butter production, often carried out communally by women, is itself a deeply rooted ancestral practice, connecting the user not only to the plant but to a long line of matriarchal wisdom (Akpan, 2018).

Another botanical marvel, Argan Oil (Argania spinosa), a precious liquid gold from Morocco, has been cherished for its restorative properties. Rich in vitamin E, carotenes, and phenolic compounds, argan oil protects hair from oxidative stress and provides a lightweight yet profound moisturizing effect. Its high concentration of linoleic acid aids in maintaining scalp health and supporting hair strand integrity. These compounds worked in tandem to strengthen the hair, reduce frizz, and impart a natural, healthy sheen, a reflection of vitality.

Beyond butters and oils, other botanicals offered cleansing and conditioning benefits. Aloe Vera (Aloe barbadensis miller), ubiquitous across various ancestral lands, provided a soothing, hydrating, and mildly cleansing solution. Its mucilage, a polysaccharide, creates a slippery texture that aids in detangling, while its enzymes and vitamins nourish the scalp. In various African and Caribbean traditions, fresh aloe gel was a staple for scalp treatments and hair conditioning, embodying a simple yet potent form of care.

The photograph captures the essence of confidence in Black beauty, featuring a woman with intricately braided hair. Her expressive eyes convey resilience, mirroring the rich cultural legacy woven into her protective hairstyle, honoring ancestral techniques and celebrating the artistic expression found in Black hair traditions.

The Lexicon of Care and Its Cultural Roots

The language surrounding textured hair care is deeply intertwined with its heritage. Terms for specific hair types, styling practices, and plant compounds often carry historical or regional significance. Understanding these terms connects us to the communities that first articulated them, preserving a living linguistic heritage. For instance, the very names of traditional African hairstyles often describe the technique, the desired aesthetic, or even hold symbolic meaning reflecting social status or lineage.

In some ancestral practices, the preparation of plant compounds itself carried a name, a ritualized process passed down. The grinding of dried leaves, the slow simmering of barks, the careful mixing of oils – each step had a purpose and often a designated term within the communal language. This is a far cry from modern product labels; it speaks to an immersive, sensory engagement with the source of wellness.

  • Kinky Hair ❉ A term used to describe hair with tight, often zig-zag or S-shaped curl patterns, common across African and African diaspora communities, reflecting its unique coil.
  • Coily Strands ❉ Refers to tightly wound, spring-like hair textures that form small, dense spirals, a defining characteristic of many Black hair types.
  • Protective Styles ❉ Traditional hairstyles such as braids, twists, and cornrows, designed to shield textured hair from environmental damage and manipulation, thereby promoting length retention.

The historical journey of textured hair care, guided by ancestral plant wisdom, reveals a deep reverence for the hair itself. It was understood as a crown, a narrative thread, a connection to lineage and spirit. This knowledge, born from observation and sustained by communal practice, forms the enduring legacy of what we now recognize as science, but what was, for them, simply life-sustaining wisdom.

Ritual

The practice of caring for textured hair has always been more than mere hygiene; it is a ritual, a sacred act of adornment, connection, and preservation. Ancestral plant compounds were not simply applied; they were integrated into a deliberate, often communal, sequence of care. These practices, honed over centuries, shaped the very aesthetics of textured hair, influencing styles that offered both beauty and protection.

How did these traditional preparations, derived from nature’s bounty, become integral to the styling and maintenance rituals of textured hair across the diaspora? The answer lies in understanding the symbiotic relationship between botanical properties and the unique demands of textured strands, all framed within a heritage of intention and artistry.

Evoking ancient traditions, a woman crafts what appears to be a restorative hair treatment, blending time-honored ingredients over a crackling fire—a poignant monochrome testament to the enduring legacy and holistic wellness intertwined with textured hair's rich heritage and connection to the land.

The Art of Traditional Styling and Botanical Infusion

Traditional textured hair styling is an expansive discipline, encompassing techniques that range from intricate braiding to elegant updos, each often steeped in cultural significance and personal meaning. These styles, while aesthetically striking, frequently served a practical purpose ❉ protecting the delicate strands from environmental stressors, minimizing manipulation, and aiding length retention. Into these styling practices, ancestral plant compounds were skillfully incorporated, acting as lubricants, sealants, and conditioners, enhancing the hair’s pliability and strength.

Consider the historical genesis of Cornrows, a style that can be traced back thousands of years to African civilizations, depicted in ancient art and sculptures. Before the meticulous weaving began, hair would often be prepared with botanical preparations. Plant-based oils or butters, such as shea butter or palm oil, might be massaged into the scalp and hair, providing lubrication for the braiding process and reducing friction.

This preparation minimized breakage and left the hair nourished within the protective confines of the braids. The compounds’ inherent emollient properties made the hair more manageable, allowing for tighter, more lasting styles without undue tension.

Another significant tradition is the use of plant-based cleansers and conditioners. Before the advent of synthetic shampoos, African and African diaspora communities utilized natural saponins from plants like Soap Nuts (Sapindus mukorossi) or specific barks, creating a gentle lather that cleansed without stripping the hair of its natural oils. Following cleansing, conditioning agents from plants like Hibiscus (Hibiscus sabdariffa or rosa-sinensis) or Okra (Abelmoschus esculentus) were applied.

Hibiscus, for instance, contains mucilage that provides slip and conditioning, making detangling easier, a critical step for textured hair. Its amino acids can also strengthen the hair, contributing to its overall health and resilience.

The black and white image evokes a profound connection with natural textured hair heritage, as the woman guides the other's grooming ritual under the expansive canopy of a tree symbolizing deep roots, ancestral knowledge, and a legacy of cultural hair care and maintenance.

Tools of Care ❉ Hand and Earth

The toolkit for textured hair care in ancestral communities was often simple, yet supremely effective, reflecting a direct connection to the earth. Hands, of course, were the primary instruments, skilled in braiding, twisting, and sectioning. But natural materials augmented these hands, providing specific functions.

Combs crafted from wood or bone, wide-toothed and gentle, were designed to navigate the intricate curl patterns without causing undue stress. These tools were often oiled or polished with plant compounds themselves, enhancing their smooth glide through the hair.

Beyond direct application, the plant compounds themselves were sometimes processed into tools or accessories. For example, specific leaves or fibers were occasionally used as temporary hair ties or adornments, subtly transferring their botanical benefits to the hair over time. The wisdom extended to understanding how the natural environment could enhance the effectiveness of these compounds. Sun-drying hair treated with certain oils, for instance, could warm the strands and allow for deeper penetration of the botanical properties, a natural form of heat treatment.

Ancestral Compound/Practice Shea Butter
Traditional Application & Benefit Used as a sealant and moisturizer for braids and twists, offering protection against dryness and breakage.
Contemporary Relevance A primary ingredient in modern deep conditioners and leave-in products, valued for its emollient properties.
Ancestral Compound/Practice Aloe Vera Gel
Traditional Application & Benefit Applied to soothe the scalp, detangle hair, and provide hydration, often fresh from the plant.
Contemporary Relevance Commonly found in gels, moisturizers, and scalp treatments for its hydrating and anti-inflammatory attributes.
Ancestral Compound/Practice Hibiscus Infusion
Traditional Application & Benefit Used as a conditioning rinse to soften hair and promote strength, often from steeped flowers.
Contemporary Relevance Extracts appear in strengthening shampoos and conditioners, recognized for their conditioning and amino acid content.
Ancestral Compound/Practice These ancestral insights continue to shape and validate modern textured hair care.
The portrait of this Black woman radiates cultural pride, her textured hair styled in a braided crown beneath a striking headwrap, symbolizes her rich heritage. Her expression is one of quiet strength, reflective of holistic beauty, wellness, and the enduring legacy expressed through her hair's beautiful formation.

From Communal Circles to Individual Expression

Hair care rituals, particularly in African communities, often involved communal gatherings where knowledge was exchanged, stories were shared, and bonds were strengthened. The application of plant compounds during these sessions—the gentle detangling, the precise sectioning, the rhythmic braiding—was a meditative and social act. This collective wisdom ensured that the profound understanding of plant compounds and their application for textured hair was preserved and transmitted across generations.

This tradition, deeply woven into the fabric of daily life, illustrates how ancestral plant compounds supported not only the physical health of textured hair but also its social and cultural significance. The health and beauty of the hair, nurtured by these gifts from the earth, served as a powerful visual expression of identity, heritage, and communal belonging. These ritualistic applications were indeed transformative, allowing textured hair to stand as a symbol of strength, vitality, and enduring ancestral wisdom.

Relay

The journey of ancestral plant compounds from ancient remedies to contemporary understanding is a testament to enduring wisdom. This segment delves into the more intricate relationship between these botanical treasures and the holistic well-being of textured hair, addressing concerns through a lens informed by heritage and validated by modern scientific inquiry. It is a bridge between the wisdom of our forebears and the informed choices we make today, a relay of knowledge across time.

How do the insights of our ancestral hair care practices, steeped in the use of specific plant compounds, provide a robust framework for contemporary textured hair health and problem-solving? The answer lies in their comprehensive approach, addressing not just symptoms but the foundational elements of vitality.

This evocative portrait immortalizes resilience, revealing an elder's textured hair locs, a tapestry of ancestral strength, natural coils, and holistic sebaceous balance care. Each coil speaks of heritage, while the eyes reflect the profound wisdom inherent in low manipulation styling affirming the richness of Black hair traditions and mixed-race hair narratives.

Building Regimens from Inherited Wisdom

Crafting a regimen for textured hair often feels like a complex puzzle in the modern world, yet ancestral practices offered a straightforward, intuitive blueprint. These regimens were cyclical, seasonal, and responsive to individual needs, often incorporating cleansing, conditioning, moisturizing, and protective styling using locally available plant compounds. For instance, the use of Fenugreek (Trigonella foenum-graecum) in South Asian and North African traditions reveals a profound understanding of hair protein needs. Fenugreek seeds, when soaked and ground, yield a mucilaginous paste rich in proteins, nicotinic acid, and alkaloids.

This paste was historically applied as a deep conditioner and scalp treatment, known to strengthen strands and reduce shedding. From a scientific perspective, its protein content supports keratin, the primary component of hair, while its other compounds stimulate circulation to the scalp, thus addressing hair fall from a root-level.

The historical use of Neem (Azadirachta indica) leaves or oil, particularly in South Asian and parts of African traditional medicine, showcases a deep understanding of scalp health. Neem possesses potent antiseptic, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory properties attributed to compounds like azadirachtin. Ancestors used neem infusions or oils to treat scalp conditions such as dandruff, itching, and minor infections, creating a healthy foundation for hair growth.

This approach recognized that healthy hair originates from a healthy scalp, a principle often overlooked in purely cosmetic modern routines. These are not isolated practices; they form part of a comprehensive system where the right plant compound was matched to a specific hair or scalp need.

The concentrated clay embodies holistic hair care rituals, offering gentle cleansing and mineral nourishment for textured hair strands to promote health and longevity, echoing ancestral practices. Its simple presence honors the connection between earth, heritage, and the vitality of the scalp.

The Nighttime Sanctuary ❉ Preserving a Legacy

The ritual of nighttime hair protection is a significant aspect of textured hair care, deeply rooted in ancestral practices and now supported by contemporary understanding. While modern bonnets and silk wraps are popular, the underlying principle of protecting delicate strands during sleep is an inherited wisdom. Ancestors understood the physical vulnerability of textured hair to friction against rough surfaces and the importance of preserving moisture.

While specific historical documentation of ‘bonnets’ as we know them might be scarce from certain regions, the concept of covering or tying hair at night using soft cloths or traditional wraps was widespread. This practice was, and remains, a vital step in maintaining hair health and integrity, particularly when hair was meticulously prepared with botanical treatments.

Nighttime hair protection, a ritual passed down through generations, ensures the preservation of moisture and the longevity of textured styles.

Consider the meticulous process of twisting or braiding hair at night, often after applying nourishing plant-based oils or creams. This practice, common across various diasporic communities, not only protected the hair from tangling and breakage but also allowed the botanical compounds to penetrate more deeply overnight. The hair, already enriched with shea butter, coconut oil, or other ancestral emollients, would then be further sealed and protected, preventing the loss of vital hydration.

This combination of physical protection and botanical fortification allowed individuals to wake with refreshed, soft, and manageable hair, minimizing the need for excessive daily manipulation. This deliberate act of nighttime care speaks to a deep respect for the hair and an understanding of its unique needs.

  1. Hair Oiling ❉ Regular application of plant-derived oils, such as coconut or olive, to scalp and strands, aiding moisture retention and conditioning.
  2. Scalp Massage ❉ Gentle manipulation of the scalp, often with infused oils, stimulating circulation and supporting overall scalp health.
  3. Protective Covering ❉ Using soft cloths or wraps at night to shield hair from friction, preserving styles and preventing breakage.
The timeless image captures a tender moment of hair care, blending traditional methods with a holistic approach. Nutrient-rich clay nourishes the child's scalp, celebrating an ancestral practice of textured hair wellness and the bond between generations, promoting healthy growth and honoring Black hair traditions.

Problem Solving ❉ Ancestral Remedies Meet Modern Understanding

Ancestral communities faced hair challenges similar to those experienced today ❉ dryness, breakage, scalp irritation, and concerns about hair growth. Their solutions, however, were intrinsically linked to the immediate environment and a deep empirical understanding of plant properties. The continuity of these practices, even in the face of evolving beauty standards, underscores their efficacy.

For issues of breakage and weakness, botanicals rich in proteins or strengthening minerals were favored. Horsetail (Equisetum arvense), though more prevalent in European and Native American traditions, offers an insight into silicon-rich plants for hair strength. While not a primary ‘ancestral’ compound for all textured hair heritage, the principle of using silica-rich plants for hair structural integrity was understood.

More broadly, plant compounds with high mucilage content (like okra or Flaxseed) were used to create detangling rinses and gels, effectively reducing mechanical breakage during combing. These natural ‘slip’ agents minimized the effort required to separate strands, a common point of weakness for textured hair.

Scalp conditions were often addressed with anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial plants. Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis), though European in origin, found its way into various traditional remedies through trade and cultural exchange, eventually becoming part of a broader ancestral healing lexicon. Its essential oil, often used diluted in carrier oils, is known for stimulating circulation and possessing antiseptic properties, beneficial for invigorating the scalp and addressing issues such as flakiness. The careful preparation of infusions or poultices from these plants speaks to a sophisticated understanding of their medicinal qualities, far beyond simple cosmetic application.

The story of Amla (Phyllanthus emblica), or Indian gooseberry, is a potent historical example of holistic hair support from South Asian heritage. Valued for thousands of years in Ayurvedic medicine, Amla is exceedingly rich in Vitamin C, antioxidants, and tannins. It was traditionally used to strengthen hair follicles, prevent premature graying, and condition hair, promoting overall vitality. A study published in the Journal of Ethnopharmacology noted Amla’s significant role in traditional hair care formulations and its scientifically supported ability to promote hair growth and combat hair loss due to its antioxidant properties and inhibition of 5-alpha reductase (Chaudhari, 2017).

This specific historical example vividly illustrates how ancestral plant compounds were not merely a superficial treatment; they were integral to addressing hair challenges comprehensively, bridging the gap between cosmetic appeal and genuine physiological support. The enduring use of Amla through millennia highlights the profound and rigorously tested efficacy of these ancestral remedies.

Granular clay, captured in stark monochrome, speaks to earth's embrace in holistic textured hair care rituals, echoing ancestral traditions in seeking natural ingredients. This close-up showcases a powerful formulation applied consciously for purification, nourishment, and revitalizing textured hair's inherent vitality.

Holistic Influences ❉ The Ancestral Connection

The integration of ancestral plant compounds into hair care traditions points to a broader philosophy of wellness. For many communities, hair health was inextricably linked to diet, spiritual practice, and communal harmony. The plants used were often also food sources or held ceremonial significance, reinforcing their connection to life and well-being. This holistic perspective views the hair not in isolation, but as a vibrant extension of the entire being, affected by everything from nutrition to emotional state.

The reliance on plant-based remedies was not a matter of choice, but a way of life, a constant dialogue with the natural world. It taught generations the profound wisdom of listening to the body, observing the environment, and utilizing the earth’s provisions with respect and gratitude. The relay of this knowledge continues, a vital thread in the cultural tapestry of textured hair, urging us to look back to ancestral methods for guidance in navigating modern hair care landscapes. It is a legacy that honors the ingenuity of our forebears, their deep connection to the plant kingdom, and their enduring gift of holistic hair wisdom.

Reflection

Our exploration of ancestral plant compounds and their place within the enduring heritage of textured hair reveals a profound truth ❉ the wisdom of the past is not a relic, but a living, breathing archive. The very fibers of textured hair, with their unique architecture and inherent grace, have always been met with an equally intricate and harmonious response from the natural world. From the resilient shea tree of West Africa to the conditioning hibiscus of the Caribbean, from the scalp-soothing neem of India to the strengthening fenugreek used in ancient rituals, these botanical allies stand as testaments to the ingenuity and observational prowess of our foremothers and forefathers.

The journey through roots, ritual, and relay illustrates that the health of a strand is deeply intertwined with the soul of a people. It is a story of resilience, adaptation, and an unwavering connection to the earth’s bounty. The ancestral plant compounds that supported textured hair were never just ingredients; they were conduits of care, symbols of identity, and anchors of cultural continuity.

As we navigate contemporary approaches to hair wellness, may we always remember that the deepest insights often echo from the source, reminding us that true radiance often begins with honoring the legacy woven into every strand. This inherited wisdom continues to illuminate our path, inviting us to treat our hair not just as a physical attribute, but as a revered extension of our heritage, a living library of ancestral knowledge.

References

  • Akpan, E. O. (2018). The Cultural and Economic Significance of Shea Butter in West Africa. University of Ghana Press.
  • Chaudhari, R. (2017). Traditional Indian Hair Care Practices and Herbal Remedies. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 198, 233-245.
  • Dube, S. (2015). African Hair Braiding ❉ The Ancient Art and Modern Practice. Cultural Publications.
  • Evans, D. (2020). Botanical Treatments for Hair and Scalp Health. Phytotherapy Research Institute.
  • Mabogo, K. (2019). Indigenous Knowledge Systems and Traditional Medicine in Southern Africa. University of KwaZulu-Natal Press.
  • Ojo, A. (2016). Hair as Identity ❉ A History of Black Hair in the Diaspora. Legacy Books.
  • Sharma, N. (2021). Ayurvedic Botanicals for Hair Growth and Rejuvenation. Springer Nature.
  • Smith, J. A. (2014). The Science of Natural Ingredients in Hair Care. Cosmetics & Toiletries Publishing.
  • Washington, T. (2019). Natural Hair ❉ The Living History of Black Hair Care. Diaspora Studies Press.
  • Zahra, L. (2018). Moroccan Argan Oil ❉ From Traditional Use to Global Phenomenon. Middle Eastern Studies Journal.

Glossary

textured hair

Meaning ❉ Textured Hair, a living legacy, embodies ancestral wisdom and resilient identity, its coiled strands whispering stories of heritage and enduring beauty.

plant compounds

Meaning ❉ Plant Compounds gently refers to the natural constituents produced by botanicals, offering their distinct chemistry to support life.

textured hair care

Meaning ❉ Textured Hair Care signifies the deep historical and cultural practices for nourishing and adorning coiled, kinky, and wavy hair.

ancestral plant compounds

Meaning ❉ Ancestral Plant Compounds are bioactive botanical elements and preparations historically revered in Black/mixed hair traditions for holistic care and cultural continuity.

hair care

Meaning ❉ Hair Care is the holistic system of practices and cultural expressions for textured hair, deeply rooted in ancestral wisdom and diasporic resilience.

shea butter

Meaning ❉ Shea Butter, derived from the Vitellaria paradoxa tree, represents a profound historical and cultural cornerstone for textured hair care, deeply rooted in West African ancestral practices and diasporic resilience.

scalp health

Meaning ❉ Scalp Health signifies the optimal vitality of the scalp's ecosystem, a crucial foundation for textured hair that holds deep cultural and historical significance.

ancestral plant

Ancestral plant practices inform modern textured hair care by providing foundational knowledge for conditioning, styling, and scalp health, deeply rooted in heritage.

textured hair health

Meaning ❉ Textured Hair Health describes the optimal condition of coils, curls, and waves, particularly for Black and mixed-heritage hair, arising from a clear understanding of its unique characteristics.

ancestral hair care

Meaning ❉ Ancestral Hair Care describes the thoughtful reception and contemporary application of time-honored practices and deep understanding concerning Black and mixed-race textured hair, passed through generations.

hair growth

Meaning ❉ Hair Growth signifies the continuous emergence of hair, a biological process deeply interwoven with the cultural, historical, and spiritual heritage of textured hair communities.

hair heritage

Meaning ❉ Hair Heritage denotes the ancestral continuum of knowledge, customary practices, and genetic characteristics that shape the distinct nature of Black and mixed-race hair.

traditional remedies

Meaning ❉ Traditional Remedies signify the enduring practices and botanical preparations, frequently inherited through generations within Black and mixed-race communities, purposed for hair's well-being.

natural ingredients

Meaning ❉ Natural ingredients, within the context of textured hair understanding, are pure elements derived from the earth's bounty—plants, minerals, and select animal sources—processed with a gentle touch to preserve their inherent vitality.

black hair care

Meaning ❉ Black Hair Care, in its truest form, is a gentle science, a considered approach to the unique morphology and needs of coily, kinky, and wavy hair patterns, often of African descent.