
Roots
For those of us whose lineage carries the legacy of textured hair, the story of our strands reaches back through the mist of time, echoing with the whispers of ancestors. It is a story written not just in DNA, but in shared practices, in rituals passed down through generations, and in the very language of care that transcends centuries. Could it be that the sun-kissed sands of ancient Kemet, what we call Egypt today, hold keys to understanding our modern textured hair routines?
The inquiry feels less like a mere historical question and more like a resonant call to explore a profound truth ❉ that the wisdom of our forebears often speaks loudest in the quiet traditions of daily life, including the tending of hair. The answer, as we shall see, is yes; there are deep, undeniable similarities, rooted in an understanding of hair’s intrinsic nature and its place in identity and community.
Ancient Egyptian hair practices, particularly those applied to what we now understand as textured hair, offer a fascinating parallel to contemporary routines. This enduring connection stems from shared needs ❉ managing diverse hair structures in arid climates, protecting delicate strands, and expressing social, spiritual, and personal identity through adornment. From the early predynastic period onward, hair held immense significance in Kemet, a symbol of vitality and power, often treated with remarkable foresight and ingenuity.

Hair Anatomy and the Echoes from the Source
To truly appreciate the common ground between ancient Kemet and our present-day textured hair routines, we must consider the very canvas upon which these practices unfolded ❉ the hair itself. While the scientific understanding of hair anatomy has deepened considerably through modern microscopy and chemical analysis, the ancient Egyptians, through observation and empirical knowledge, grasped many fundamental principles of hair care that aligned with the needs of diverse hair textures. They understood that hair required moisture, protection from environmental stressors like the harsh desert sun, and meticulous detangling to maintain its health.
Textured hair, with its characteristic coils and curls, possesses a unique anatomical structure. The hair shaft, rather than being perfectly round, is often oval or elliptical in cross-section. This shape influences the way hair grows, causing it to coil and bend, creating points of vulnerability where strands are more prone to breakage.
The cuticle layers, which act as the hair’s protective outer shield, tend to lift more easily on textured hair, leading to greater moisture loss and susceptibility to environmental damage. These are the very biological realities that both ancient Kemet and modern textured hair care seek to address.
Archaeological findings and surviving texts like the Ebers Papyrus reveal a sophisticated approach to hair concerns. Ancient Egyptians were concerned with challenges such as hair loss and premature graying, devising remedies and concoctions from various natural sources. These efforts underscore a practical awareness of hair’s condition and a desire to preserve its vitality, a pursuit that resonates deeply with contemporary wellness approaches to textured hair.
The journey to understanding textured hair care begins with ancient Kemet’s profound awareness of hair’s essential needs, mirroring our modern reverence for its unique biology.

Understanding Textured Hair’s Classification in Antiquity?
The classification of textured hair in antiquity did not follow the precise scientific systems we employ today, such as the widely recognized Andre Walker typing chart. Nevertheless, ancient Egyptian iconography, mummified remains, and textual descriptions provide compelling evidence of a society that recognized and styled a range of hair textures. One can observe diverse hairstyles depicted in tomb paintings and statuary, from tightly coiled braids to flowing waves, suggesting a societal familiarity with varied hair types, including those naturally disposed to coiling.
Indeed, some scholars postulate that the use of wigs and hair extensions, so prominent in ancient Kemet, was not solely about fashion or hygiene, but also about achieving desired textures and volumes that may have been difficult to maintain with natural hair alone, especially for those with finer strands or specific hair patterns. The meticulous crafting of wigs from human hair, plant fibers, and even animal wool, often braided into hundreds of small plaits, speaks volumes about the societal value placed on diverse hair appearances. This practice mirrors the modern use of extensions and protective styles to achieve desired looks or manage natural texture.

How Did Ancient Egyptians Address Hair’s Intrinsic Needs?
The core needs of textured hair, whether in ancient Kemet or today, center on moisture retention, protection, and gentle handling. The desert climate, with its intense sun and dry air, would have posed significant challenges for hair health. Ancient Egyptians countered these environmental factors with practices that echo modern textured hair routines. They utilized various natural oils and fats as emollients to moisturize and protect hair.
Chemical analyses of hair samples from mummies, some dating back 3,500 years, reveal a fat-based substance, akin to a modern hair gel, used to set and hold styles. This substance, composed of long-chain fatty acids, suggests a sophisticated understanding of how to seal moisture into the hair shaft and maintain style.
- Oils and Fats ❉ Castor oil , moringa oil , and pomegranate oil were among the natural oils believed to be used for hair nourishment, offering hydration and promoting shine. These plant-based lipids would have provided a protective barrier against the elements and helped reduce moisture loss, a fundamental aspect of textured hair care.
- Styling Agents ❉ Beeswax and animal fat were commonly used to set styles, provide hold for wigs, and add luster to hair. This practice parallels contemporary use of styling creams, butters, and gels designed to define curls and reduce frizz.
- Combs and Pins ❉ Decorative combs made of ivory and wood, dating back to 3900 BCE, as well as hairpins of bone, ivory, and bronze, were essential tools for detangling, styling, and securing intricate coiffures. These tools, while simple, indicate a mindful approach to managing hair, much like the wide-tooth combs and styling tools favored in modern textured hair routines.
Such attention to the physiological requirements of hair, through specific product application and tool usage, forms a tangible link across the millennia. The empirical knowledge of what made hair pliable, strong, and visually appealing in ancient Kemet aligns strikingly with the scientific principles now applied in developing products for textured hair.

Ritual
The tending of hair in ancient Kemet was rarely a solitary, utilitarian act. It unfolded as a complex interplay of personal expression, social standing, and often, profound spiritual meaning. This intricate dance of care, styling, and adornment, imbued with intentionality and purpose, forms a rich tapestry of ritual that resonates deeply with the spirit of modern textured hair routines.
We see in the ancient practices a recognition of hair not merely as biological fiber, but as a living extension of self, a medium for storytelling, and a canvas for identity. The meticulous attention paid to styling, the sophisticated use of tools, and the very transformation of hair—whether natural or augmented—speak to a shared heritage of artistry and reverence.

Ancient Braiding and Protective Styles ❉ A Familiar Echo?
For millennia, protective styles have shielded textured hair from environmental damage, minimized manipulation, and promoted healthy growth. In ancient Kemet, complex braided styles and wigs often composed of numerous plaits were not only fashionable but served practical purposes. Many Egyptians, particularly those of higher status, shaved their heads or kept their natural hair cropped short, then wore elaborate wigs. These wigs, skillfully crafted from human hair, plant fibers, or even sheep’s wool, were meticulously braided into intricate designs, sometimes numbering in the hundreds of individual plaits.
This practice finds a striking parallel in the ancestral braiding traditions of various African cultures and the contemporary protective styling methods popular within Black and mixed-race communities. Braiding served as a communal activity, a means of cultural expression, and a protective measure against the elements. The longevity and resilience of these styles in the dry Egyptian climate highlight an intuitive understanding of hair protection.
Indeed, the earliest known hair extensions, dating to approximately 3400 BCE, were found in a female burial at Hierakonpolis, braided into her natural hair. (Fletcher, 1998) This historical example powerfully illuminates the deep, enduring connection between ancestral hair practices and the heritage of textured hair care.
The elaborate “Nubian wig” styles, often depicted with tight curls and plaits, further suggest a recognition of hair’s ability to be sculpted and protected through intricate sectioning and braiding. This ingenuity in manipulating hair to create stable, long-lasting forms parallels the modern focus on techniques like cornrows, box braids, and twists, which offer both aesthetic appeal and practical hair preservation.
Ancient Kemet’s sophisticated use of braided wigs and extensions reveals an enduring understanding of hair manipulation for both aesthetic and protective purposes, echoing modern textured hair practices.

Tools of Transformation ❉ Beyond the Mundane
The implements used by ancient Egyptian hairdressers, much like those in modern textured hair routines, were designed for specific functions that speak to careful styling and maintenance. From combs that detangled to tongs that curled, these tools facilitated diverse hair artistry.
| Ancient Tool Combs |
| Purpose and Material Detangling, parting, styling. Often made of ivory or wood, with both wide and fine teeth. |
| Modern Parallel for Textured Hair Wide-tooth combs, detangling brushes, rat-tail combs for precise parting. |
| Ancient Tool Curling Tongs |
| Purpose and Material Creating curls and waves, likely heated over fire. Made of bronze. |
| Modern Parallel for Textured Hair Curling irons, flexi-rods, perm rods for heatless or heated curl definition. |
| Ancient Tool Hairpins |
| Purpose and Material Securing styles, buns, or extensions. Made from bone, ivory, wood, or metals. |
| Modern Parallel for Textured Hair Bobby pins, hair forks, decorative hair sticks for securing updos and various styles. |
| Ancient Tool Razors/Trimmers |
| Purpose and Material Shaving heads (for cleanliness/wigs) and trimming hair. Made of bronze or stone. |
| Modern Parallel for Textured Hair Barber clippers, trimmers, razors for shaping, shaving, and precise cuts. |
| Ancient Tool The enduring utility of these tools speaks to universal needs in hair care, from managing texture to creating desired shapes across millennia. |
The discovery of bronze curling tongs, often combined with trimmers, indicates a desire for sculpted curls and waves, a look still popular today. This suggests a sophisticated understanding of thermal styling, albeit without the precise temperature controls of modern electric tools. The intentionality behind these tools underscores that hair styling was a deliberate craft, much as it is now in textured hair communities that embrace heat styling with care or prefer heatless methods for curl preservation.

Wigs and Adornments ❉ Beyond Aesthetics
Wigs in ancient Kemet were far more than mere fashion statements; they were symbols of status, hygiene, and sometimes even ritual purity. Both men and women, across social classes, wore wigs, with the elite often commissioning elaborate, expensive pieces made of human hair. Priests, in particular, shaved their heads for ritual purity and wore wigs to shield themselves from the sun. The meticulous care of these wigs, often using oils and emollients, speaks to their value and symbolic weight.
Similarly, hair extensions were common, used to add length and thickness to natural hair or wigs. Archaeological findings, such as the woman found in Amarna with approximately 70 hair extensions, illustrate the extensive use of these enhancements. This mirrors the contemporary popularity of wigs, weaves, and extensions within textured hair communities, where they serve functions ranging from protective styling and length retention to versatile self-expression and cultural adornment. The shared heritage of augmenting hair to achieve specific styles or to serve practical purposes is clear.

Relay
The historical journey of textured hair care, from the banks of the Nile to contemporary salons and homes, reveals more than a mere evolution of techniques. It speaks to an enduring philosophy, a holistic approach to hair health that intertwines ancestral wisdom with modern scientific understanding. The regimens practiced in ancient Kemet, though lacking our precise biochemical data, were often remarkably effective in addressing the fundamental needs of hair, anticipating many principles we now validate through research. This legacy of thoughtful, protective care forms a vital bridge between past and present, underscoring the deep heritage that informs many textured hair routines today.

Building Personalized Regimens ❉ Wisdom Across Eras?
The concept of a personalized hair care regimen is not a modern invention; it echoes a long-standing practice rooted in observation and adaptation. Ancient Egyptians, living in a demanding climate, understood that hair required specific, consistent attention. While we might not have detailed daily diaries of their hair routines, the archaeological and textual evidence points to regular washing, oiling, and styling. This consistency aligns with the modern textured hair community’s emphasis on a structured regimen – the “wash day” ritual, the deep conditioning, the careful styling steps tailored to individual needs.
The Ebers Papyrus, an ancient medical text, contains various remedies for hair conditions, including those for hair growth and combating baldness. These prescriptions, though sometimes containing ingredients that seem unusual by today’s standards (e.g. animal fats from diverse sources), represent a systematic attempt to address hair health concerns.
This early form of problem-solving, drawing from available natural resources, reflects a practical, holistic approach that sought to maintain the vitality of the hair and scalp. It resonates with contemporary textured hair problem-solving, which often involves adjusting regimens, selecting specific ingredients, and seeking expert advice to address issues like breakage, dryness, or scalp irritation.
The societal value placed on healthy, styled hair in ancient Kemet, where appearance conveyed status and identity, would have further driven the development of these routines. The presence of professional hairdressers and wigmakers, serving both the elite and, to a lesser extent, the wider populace, underscores a communal commitment to hair care as a craft and a necessity.

How Did Ancient Kemet Manage Hair for Nighttime Protection?
The understanding of protecting hair during rest, a cornerstone of modern textured hair regimens, also finds its roots in ancient practices. While specific “bonnet wisdom” texts from ancient Kemet are not extant, the pervasive use of wigs and head coverings, particularly among the elite, hints at a practical awareness of protecting elaborate hairstyles from environmental damage and sleep-induced friction. Wigs were often meticulously crafted and expensive, making their preservation a priority. Stored in wig boxes, they were undoubtedly treated with care to maintain their style and integrity.
This parallels the modern use of silk or satin bonnets, scarves, and pillowcases to protect textured hair from frizz, breakage, and moisture loss overnight. The goal, then as now, was to extend the life of a hairstyle and preserve hair health.
The application of fatty substances as styling agents and emollients, as identified by researchers like Natalie McCreesh, served not only to set styles but also to provide a protective coating. This fatty layer would have also provided a barrier during sleep, minimizing friction and keeping moisture sealed within the hair shaft, a practical benefit highly prized in textured hair care today. The very act of applying these unctuous preparations was a nightly ritual for some, much like the “sealing” of moisture with oils or butters that forms a part of contemporary textured hair routines before sleep.
- Fat-Based Coatings ❉ Historical analysis confirms the use of a fat-based substance on hair, acting as a styling product and likely providing overnight protection.
- Wig Preservation ❉ The care taken to store and maintain elaborate wigs in specialized boxes indicates an understanding of the need to protect styled hair during periods of rest or non-wear.
- Head Coverings ❉ While worn for diverse reasons, head coverings could have also offered a practical layer of protection for natural hair and wigs against dust and friction during sleep.

Ingredient Deep Dives ❉ A Heritage of Natural Solutions
The ancient Egyptians’ reliance on natural ingredients for hair care offers a powerful testament to ancestral wisdom. Their cosmetic knowledge stemmed from deep familiarity with the properties of local flora and fauna. Many ingredients used then align with principles of natural hair care today, emphasizing moisture, nourishment, and scalp health.
| Ancient Kemet Ingredient Animal Fats/Oils (e.g. from ibex, lions, crocodiles, hippopotami) |
| Traditional Use and Significance Used as emollients, styling gels, and for hair growth remedies. Provided moisture and hold in a dry climate. |
| Modern Relevance for Textured Hair Heritage Acknowledged for their moisturizing and sealing properties. Modern alternatives focus on plant-derived lipids, but the principle of coating and protection persists. |
| Ancient Kemet Ingredient Plant Oils (e.g. Castor, Moringa, Pomegranate) |
| Traditional Use and Significance Valued for conditioning, strengthening, shine, and scalp health. Often combined in elaborate formulations. |
| Modern Relevance for Textured Hair Heritage Castor oil remains a staple for scalp treatments and promoting apparent thickness. Moringa and pomegranate oils are valued for their lightweight conditioning and antioxidant properties. |
| Ancient Kemet Ingredient Henna |
| Traditional Use and Significance Used for dyeing hair, especially to mask graying. Also believed to strengthen hair. |
| Modern Relevance for Textured Hair Heritage Continues to be used as a natural dye, conditioner, and strengthening agent for hair, particularly in some Black and mixed-race communities. |
| Ancient Kemet Ingredient Honey |
| Traditional Use and Significance Incorporated into hair masks for its humectant properties, drawing moisture into the hair. |
| Modern Relevance for Textured Hair Heritage A popular humectant in modern deep conditioners and hair masks, known for its ability to attract and retain moisture. |
| Ancient Kemet Ingredient Clay (e.g. mineral-rich clays) |
| Traditional Use and Significance Likely used for cleansing and purifying the scalp and hair, absorbing impurities. |
| Modern Relevance for Textured Hair Heritage Used in modern clay washes and masks for detoxifying the scalp and gently cleansing hair without stripping moisture. |
| Ancient Kemet Ingredient The selection of these natural ingredients highlights a timeless pursuit of hair health and vitality, linking ancient wisdom to present-day textured hair routines. |
This deliberate selection of ingredients based on their observable effects speaks to an early form of empirical science. The efficacy of many of these ancient remedies, particularly the use of oils and fats, is corroborated by modern understanding of hair lipid chemistry. For example, the long-chain fatty acids found in ancient Egyptian hair treatments are crucial for maintaining the integrity of the hair shaft and preventing moisture loss, a paramount concern for textured hair.
(McCreesh et al. 2011) This historical continuity in the thoughtful application of natural ingredients truly anchors modern textured hair care in an ancient heritage of holistic wellness.
The ancient Egyptians’ meticulous formulation of hair treatments from natural elements, driven by empirical observation, offers compelling evidence of sophisticated ancestral wellness practices, deeply informing modern textured hair care.

Reflection
As we gaze upon the meticulously preserved coiffures of ancient Kemet, whether on mummified figures or depicted in vibrant tomb paintings, a profound resonance stirs within us. The inquiry, “Were ancient Egyptian hair practices similar to modern textured hair routines?”, transmutes into a contemplative journey through time, revealing not just superficial resemblances but a profound kinship. It is a heritage of understanding, a wisdom gleaned from close observation of the strand itself, that bridges the Nile Valley of antiquity with the diverse landscapes where textured hair thrives today. The echoes from the past speak of care, protection, and the deep, abiding connection between one’s hair and one’s very being.
The legacy of Kemet, inscribed in their combs, their unguents, and their elaborate wigs, is a testament to the enduring human need to honor and adorn the hair. These ancient practices offer compelling validation for the core tenets of modern textured hair care ❉ the absolute necessity of moisture, the safeguarding of fragile coils, and the powerful role of hair as an expression of identity, community, and even spiritual connection. What they knew intuitively, we now often confirm through scientific inquiry.
Yet, the heart of the matter remains constant ❉ hair is not merely an accessory; it is a living, breathing archive of ancestral narratives, resilience, and beauty. The soul of a strand, indeed, stretches back to the earliest civilizations, inviting us to carry forward this luminous heritage with reverence and intentionality.

References
- Fletcher, Joann. 1995. Ancient Egyptian Hair ❉ A Study of Its Use and Significance. Unpublished Ph.D. dissertation, University of Manchester.
- Fletcher, Joann. 1998. Hair ❉ Its Structure, History and Significance. London ❉ British Museum Press.
- Fletcher, Joann and Filippo Salamone. 2016. An Ancient Egyptian Wig ❉ Construction and Reconstruction. Internet Archaeology 42.
- Lucas, Alfred. 1930. Ancient Egyptian Materials and Industries. London ❉ Edward Arnold & Co.
- Manniche, Lise. 1987. Sexual Life in Ancient Egypt. London ❉ Kegan Paul.
- McCreesh, Natalie, Andrew G. Wilson, and Rosalie David. 2011. Ancient Egyptian Hair Gel ❉ New Insight into Ancient Egyptian Mummification Procedures Through Chemical Analysis. Journal of Archaeological Science 38 (12) ❉ 3432–3434.
- Petrie, W.M. Flinders and A.C. Mace. 1901. Diospolis Parva ❉ The Cemeteries of Abadiyeh and Hu, 1898-99. London ❉ Egypt Exploration Fund.
- Petrie, W.M. Flinders. 1927. Objects of Daily Use. London ❉ British School of Archaeology in Egypt.
- Riefstahl, Elizabeth. 1952. Ancient Egyptian Hairdressing. Brooklyn, NY ❉ The Brooklyn Museum.
- Riefstahl, Elizabeth. 1956. Thebes in the Time of Amenhotep III. Norman ❉ University of Oklahoma Press.
- Speidel, Michael P. 1990. Hairdressers and Barbers in the Roman Empire. Bonn ❉ R. Habelt.
- Walker, Susan and Morris Bierbrier. 1997. Ancient Faces ❉ Mummy Portraits from Roman Egypt. London ❉ British Museum Press.
- Wilfong, Terry G. 1997. Women and Gender in Ancient Egypt ❉ From Prehistory to the Roman Conquest. Oxford ❉ Oxford University Press.