In what ways does the CROWN Act uphold heritage?

Roots

Consider the quiet strength of a single coil, a tightly wound testament to resilience. For centuries, the very fabric of Black and mixed-race identity has been intricately bound to the hair that springs from the scalp. This connection is not merely about aesthetics; it is a profound historical dialogue, a living record of survival, beauty, and cultural persistence. When we speak of the CROWN Act, we are not just discussing a piece of legislation.

We are acknowledging a fundamental principle ❉ that the ancestral inheritance expressed through textured hair deserves protection, reverence, and unfettered presence in every space. It is a legal declaration that what grows from our heads, shaped by generations of tradition and defiance, is a source of pride, never a basis for exclusion.

The CROWN Act, short for “Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair,” directly confronts a legacy of systemic discrimination that has long targeted hair textures and protective styles historically associated with people of African descent. These styles—cornrows, locs, braids, Bantu knots, Afros, and twists—are not random choices; they are expressions rooted in ancient practices and deep cultural meanings (Afriklens, 2024). The Act seeks to ensure that educational and employment opportunities are not denied because of hair texture or these protective hairstyles. This legislative effort provides a shield, permitting individuals to wear their hair in ways that honor their familial lines and communal memory without fear of economic or social reprisal.

What Constitutes Textured Hair in Its Ancestral Form?

To truly appreciate the CROWN Act’s reach, one must understand the unique physical architecture of textured hair itself, a blueprint passed down through time. Afro-textured hair, a term used for the natural hair of certain populations in Africa and the African Diaspora, carries distinctive features. It typically presents a tighter curl pattern compared to Caucasian and Asian hair.

This coiling, often described as helix-shaped, influences how moisture and sebum travel along the hair shaft, making it more prone to dryness and breakage without proper care (estherotomi, 2015). The very form of the strand carries a heritage of adaptation to diverse climates and environments.

The core of each hair strand, regardless of its outer appearance, is composed primarily of a protein called Keratin, a structural component also found in skin and nails (ScienceIQ.com, 2023). Within the hair shaft, especially the middle layer known as the Cortex, resides melanin, the pigment that dictates hair color (ScienceIQ.com, 2023; Bronde Blvd Salon, 2023). Two primary types of melanin, eumelanin and pheomelanin, determine the spectrum of black, brown, red, and blond hues (ScienceIQ.com, 2023).

In textured hair, the distribution of these melanin granules, alongside the distinctive shape of the hair follicle (which can be elliptical rather than round), contributes to the characteristic curl and coil patterns (estherotomi, 2015). This biological reality means that textured hair is not merely a style; it is a genetically expressed physical trait, an inherent part of one’s being.

The CROWN Act stands as a legal affirmation that textured hair, in its myriad forms, is a protected expression of racial and cultural identity.

How Did Hair Classification Systems Evolve?

Historically, descriptions of textured hair often carried the weight of societal bias, using terms that subtly or overtly reflected Eurocentric beauty standards. The very language used to classify hair has sometimes served to otherize or diminish the beauty of coils and curls. Early attempts at categorization, while sometimes aiming for scientific rigor, frequently overlooked the vast spectrum of textures within African and mixed-race communities. Traditional African societies, by contrast, understood hair as a visual language, its styles conveying information about a person’s age, social status, marital status, tribal affiliation, and even spiritual beliefs (Afriklens, 2024; BBC News, 2015).

The modern understanding of hair types, like the Andre Walker Hair Typing System, while helpful for product selection, often still struggles to fully capture the complexity and diversity of textured hair. These systems, whether explicit or implicit, sometimes inadvertently perpetuate a hierarchy where looser curls are valued more. The CROWN Act, through its explicit protection of various styles, seeks to dismantle this unspoken hierarchy, insisting that all forms of textured hair, from the tightest coil to the loosest curl, are equally deserving of respect and protection. It reinforces a heritage perspective where the inherent beauty of all natural hair is recognized and celebrated.

Ritual

The act of styling textured hair is rarely a mere chore; it is a ritual, a connection across generations, a continuous affirmation of identity forged through historical currents. From the painstaking sectioning of braids to the careful tending of locs, these practices carry stories and wisdom passed down through ancestral lines. The CROWN Act, in its defense of these styles, acknowledges not only their aesthetic value but also their profound cultural and historical weight.

Styling African and mixed-race hair has always been both an art and a necessity, particularly for protective styles. In times of slavery, for instance, cornrows were not just hairstyles; they were ingenious maps, sometimes even holding seeds for survival, a testament to the resilience and ingenuity of enslaved individuals (University of Salford Students’ Union, 2024; BLAM UK CIC, 2022; Livara Natural Organics, 2023). This legacy of hair as a tool for resistance and communication underscores why its protection is so deeply tied to heritage.

What is the Historical Context of Protective Hair Styling?

Protective styles—such as braids, twists, and locs—have roots stretching back thousands of years in African cultures (Afriklens, 2024). These styles were initially functional, minimizing breakage and allowing hair to grow (Afriklens, 2024). Beyond practicality, they conveyed social standing, age, and marital status (Afriklens, 2024; BBC News, 2015).

For example, archaeological evidence from ancient Egypt and Kush shows elaborate wigs and braided styles that symbolized wealth, devotion, and a connection to deities (Afriklens, 2024). The techniques and tools used, like combs fashioned from wood or bone, were sophisticated and purpose-built for the unique characteristics of textured hair (University of Salford Students’ Union, 2024; Africa Rebirth, 2022).

The post-emancipation era presented new challenges. Many Black individuals faced immense pressure to conform to Eurocentric beauty standards, leading to widespread use of chemical straighteners and hot combs, often at great cost to hair health and personal well-being (BBC News, 2015; University of Salford Students’ Union, 2024). Despite this, the heritage of styling endured, often in private spaces and within communities, passed from mother to daughter, friend to friend.

The Civil Rights Movement saw a powerful resurgence of natural styles, with the Afro becoming a strong symbol of Black pride and defiance against oppressive norms (BBC News, 2015; University of Salford Students’ Union, 2024). This historical pendulum swing, from forced assimilation to proud reclamation, highlights the CROWN Act’s timeliness.

The CROWN Act stands as a legal affirmation that textured hair, in its myriad forms, is a protected expression of racial and cultural identity.

How Does Hair Discrimination Impact Identity?

The denial of opportunities due to textured hair is not a new phenomenon; it has a long, documented history within the United States. In 1786, Louisiana passed the “Tignon Laws,” forcing Black women to cover their hair with headscarves, a direct attempt to diminish their status and control their appearance (Don’t touch my hair!, 2022). This legal precedent, born of racial prejudice, served to reinforce the idea that Black hair, in its natural state, was unprofessional or undesirable. This history of legal and social pressure compelled many Black women to alter their hair, sometimes at the expense of their health, to fit white societal standards (McLane Middleton, 2023).

A significant legal example that underscored the need for the CROWN Act’s specific protections can be found in the 2016 Eleventh Circuit Court of Appeals ruling in EEOC v. Catastrophe Management Solutions. In this case, Chastity Jones, a Black job applicant, had a job offer rescinded after refusing to cut her dreadlocks. The court sided with the employer, ruling that a ban on dreadlocks, under a race-neutral grooming policy, did not constitute intentional race-based discrimination because dreadlocks were considered a “mutable characteristic,” meaning they could be changed (EEOC v.

Catastrophe Mgmt. Sols. 2017; McLane Middleton, 2023; EEOC v. Catastrophe Management Solutions, 2024).

This decision, which differentiated between immutable racial characteristics and cultural practices, illuminated the legal void the CROWN Act aimed to fill. The Act directly challenges this interpretation, asserting that styles like locs are indeed inextricably linked to racial identity and therefore deserve protection.

• Cornrows ❉ Ancient braiding patterns, sometimes used for conveying messages or mapping escape routes during slavery (University of Salford Students’ Union, 2024).
• Locs ❉ Styles that have historical roots in various African traditions, often linked to spiritual practices and identity (BBC News, 2015).
• Bantu Knots ❉ A protective style originating from the Zulu people of Southern Africa, a symbol of beauty and cultural connection.

Relay

The CROWN Act serves as a crucial relay in the long race for recognition and respect for textured hair, extending protections that challenge long-standing biases. It is a legislative response to a lived experience, drawing upon generations of cultural wisdom and scientific understanding to secure equity for current and future generations. The deep roots of this legal action are found in historical struggles against hair discrimination, which has long served as a proxy for racial bias (Changing Lenses, 2022).

By explicitly defining hair texture and protective hairstyles as traits associated with race, the CROWN Act strengthens legal frameworks. California was the first state to pass such a law in 2019, clarifying that discrimination based on race prohibited by the state’s Fair Employment and Housing Act and in public education includes discrimination based on traits historically associated with race, such as braids, locs, and twists (Senate Judiciary Committee, 2024; McLane Middleton, 2023). This legislative approach provides a clear mandate, making it harder for entities to claim race-neutrality when their policies disproportionately affect Black individuals.

How Does the CROWN Act Address Systemic Bias?

The Act targets both overt discrimination and the subtle, often unconscious biases that shape perceptions of professionalism. Studies have consistently shown that Black women with natural hairstyles are often perceived as less professional than those with straightened hair (Perception Institute, 2016, cited in Don’t touch my hair!, 2022; McLane Middleton, 2023). This perception contributes to a system where conformity to Eurocentric beauty standards becomes a prerequisite for success in educational and employment settings (Sociology, QuickTakes, 2023; Black Hair and Hair Texture, 2023). The CROWN Act directly challenges this underlying assumption, affirming that cultural expressions through hair are legitimate and should not hinder opportunity.

The passage of the CROWN Act at the state and, with ongoing efforts, at the federal level, represents a significant victory in recognizing the inherent value of Black hair practices. Congresswoman Bonnie Watson Coleman and Senator Cory Booker have been instrumental in leading the federal legislative efforts (CROWN Act of 2022, 2022; Black lawmakers reintroduce federal CROWN Act legislation, 2024). Their work builds upon decades of advocacy by groups and individuals who understood that dignity and self-expression through hair are fundamental civil rights (Legal Defense Fund, 2019). The legislation ensures that what once served as a means of control and subjugation is now recognized as a protected aspect of racial identity.

What is the Connection to Ancestral Wellness?

Beyond legal definitions, the CROWN Act helps validate the deep ancestral knowledge embedded in textured hair care. Traditional practices, passed down through generations, were not simply about appearance; they were holistic rituals connected to well-being, community, and spiritual grounding (Substack, 2025). The Act opens space for these practices to thrive in public life without penalty.

Consider the use of natural ingredients in textured hair care, a practice with ancient roots. From shea butter in West Africa, used for moisturizing and protection, to aloe vera for soothing the scalp, these botanical remedies speak to a long history of utilizing nature’s bounty (22 Ayur, 2023; African Hair Care Practices, 2025; BLK + GRN, 2019). Ayurvedic herbs like Amla (Indian Gooseberry), Bhringraj, and Brahmi, known for strengthening hair and promoting growth, also reflect a global exchange of traditional wisdom, often influencing care practices in the diaspora (Indiatimes, 2023; Butters and Blacksoap, 2022). The choice to use these ancestral ingredients and methods represents a commitment to inherited wellness practices, which the CROWN Act implicitly protects by upholding the styles they create.

The societal validation provided by the CROWN Act extends to the psychological well-being of individuals. Hair discrimination has been shown to cause feelings of inadequacy and diminished self-esteem among Black women (Sociology, QuickTakes, 2023). By offering legal recourse and affirming cultural hair practices, the Act contributes to a broader sense of self-acceptance and pride, allowing individuals to carry their heritage visibly and without compromise. This shift helps undo the internalized racism that can result from constant pressure to conform to unrealistic beauty standards (Sociology, QuickTakes, 2023).

1. Legal Evolution ❉ The CROWN Act represents a legislative evolution, moving beyond previous narrow interpretations of racial discrimination in the courts to include hair.
2. Cultural Validation ❉ It offers societal recognition for hair practices that are deeply meaningful and have been historically marginalized.
3. Psychological Impact ❉ The Act supports mental well-being by reducing the pressure to conform and allowing for authentic self-expression.

Reflection

The journey of textured hair, from ancient adornment to modern civil right, flows like a living river, carrying stories of struggle and triumph. The CROWN Act, in its quiet strength, acknowledges this profound history, offering a legal bridge from past injustices to a more equitable future. It is a testament to the enduring spirit that has, for generations, found identity, artistry, and resilience within each strand.

This legislation reminds us that personal expression through hair is not a trivial matter. It is a fundamental declaration of self, a visible connection to ancestry, and a vibrant continuation of heritage.

Roothea’s ‘Soul of a Strand’ ethos finds its true expression in this legislative moment. The Act honors the wisdom of those who braided survival into their hair during the transatlantic slave trade and celebrates the bold statements of the Afro during the Civil Rights era. It secures the right for every person to carry their historical legacy, their unique biology, and their chosen forms of beauty into any space, unburdened by prejudice.

As we move forward, the CROWN Act serves as a reminder that the path to true inclusion demands not only legal protection but also a deep, abiding respect for the diverse ways in which heritage manifests, particularly in the glorious expressions of textured hair. This is not the end of the story, but a profound chapter in the ongoing narrative of freedom and affirmation.