In what ways does the CROWN Act address inherited biases against textured hair?

Roots

For generations, the coils, kinks, and waves that spring from the scalps of Black and mixed-race individuals have told stories—tales of lineage, artistry, and resilience. Yet, for too long, these ancestral textures, these very strands of heritage, have been met with misunderstanding, judgment, and exclusion in spaces where conformity to Eurocentric norms was demanded. The very act of wearing one’s hair in its natural, unadulterated state, or in protective styles that carry centuries of cultural weight, could lead to denial of opportunity, or even outright dismissal. The CROWN Act, a legislative effort that stands for “Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair,” enters this deeply personal and historically charged arena not merely as a legal decree, but as a recognition of this living, breathing heritage.

It acknowledges that hair discrimination is not simply a matter of appearance; it is a manifestation of inherited biases that have systematically devalued Black and mixed-race identities. This legislation seeks to dismantle the ingrained prejudices that have long dictated what is deemed “professional” or “acceptable,” thereby creating pathways for textured hair to exist freely, openly, and proudly in all settings.

What does Textured Hair Heritage Truly Mean?

The concept of Textured Hair Heritage is a profound meditation on the enduring legacy of hair practices, philosophies, and cultural significance passed down through generations within Black and mixed-race communities. In pre-colonial African societies, hair was a powerful communicator. It conveyed intricate details about an individual’s social status, marital standing, age, wealth, and even spiritual beliefs. For instance, the Yoruba people of Nigeria created elaborate hairstyles that signaled community roles, while the Himba tribe in Namibia adorned their dreadlocked styles with ochre paste, symbolizing their connection to the earth and their ancestors.

These styles were not merely aesthetic choices; they were living archives, telling stories of identity, belonging, and the spiritual world. Hair groomers held positions of respect, possessing specialized skills to uphold these community standards.

The transatlantic slave trade, however, brought a brutal disruption to this heritage. One of the first dehumanizing acts inflicted upon enslaved Africans was the forced shaving of their heads, a deliberate attempt to strip away their identities and cultural markers. Despite this systematic erasure, enslaved Africans and their descendants clung to their hair traditions as acts of resistance and survival. Cornrows, for example, were not only practical but are said to have been used to conceal rice seeds for sustenance or even to map escape routes.

This resilience speaks to the profound connection between hair and identity, even under extreme oppression. The enduring legacy of these practices, from ancient African rituals to the ingenuity of enslaved communities, forms the rich tapestry of textured hair heritage.

How does Ancestral Knowledge Shape Hair Understanding?

Ancestral knowledge provides a deep wellspring for understanding textured hair beyond its mere biological structure. It recognizes that the care of textured hair was, and remains, a communal and often spiritual act. Historically, hair care rituals were shared among mothers, sisters, and friends, fostering strong social bonds and serving as conduits for passing down cultural wisdom.

These sessions were not just about styling; they were spaces for storytelling, sharing advice, and strengthening familial ties. The wisdom held within these traditions often aligns with modern scientific understanding of textured hair’s unique needs, such as its propensity for dryness and fragility.

The CROWN Act stands as a legislative acknowledgment of the deep historical and cultural significance of textured hair, recognizing its enduring role as a marker of identity and heritage.

The understanding of specific ingredients and techniques, often passed down orally, speaks to an intuitive knowledge of natural properties. For example, traditional African hair care utilized various natural materials and techniques, such as clay, oils, herbs, shells, beads, feathers, and metal. This ancestral wisdom, preserved through generations, forms a foundational layer for comprehending the biological realities of textured hair while honoring its cultural context. The CROWN Act, by protecting the right to wear these historically significant styles, creates space for this ancestral knowledge to continue to thrive and be celebrated.

Ritual

Consider the quiet strength held within the strands, the stories they carry, and the intimate acts of care that have shaped their existence across time. For many, the very act of tending to textured hair is a ritual, a connection to practices whispered down through generations, echoing ancestral wisdom. The CROWN Act steps into this space of lived experience, recognizing that the styles born from these rituals are not mere trends, but profound expressions of self and lineage.

This legislation offers a shield, allowing individuals to carry forward these practices without fear of penalty in the workplace or classroom. It permits the continuation of these tender traditions, allowing textured hair to exist in its authentic, glorious form.

How Has Ancestral Styling Shaped Contemporary Protective Practices?

The art of textured hair styling is deeply rooted in ancestral practices, particularly the creation of Protective Styles. These styles, which include braids, twists, locs, and Bantu knots, served practical purposes in ancient African societies, safeguarding the hair from environmental elements and promoting growth. Beyond utility, they were also canvases for cultural expression, conveying messages about an individual’s tribe, age, or marital status.

The continuity of these styles into the present day, often with minimal alteration, highlights their enduring efficacy and cultural resonance. The CROWN Act directly addresses biases against these very styles, which have historically been deemed “unprofessional” in Western contexts.

For example, the widespread practice of cornrows in the African diaspora is a direct continuation of ancient African techniques. These intricate patterns, lying flat against the scalp, were used in various African cultures to identify ethnic backgrounds and geographical locations. Today, they remain a popular and protective style, minimizing manipulation and protecting the hair strands.

The Act’s protection of styles like locs, braids, and twists means that individuals can wear their hair in ways that honor their lineage without facing discrimination in schools or employment. This allows for a deeper, more visible connection to the styling heritage that has sustained textured hair for centuries.

What Role does the CROWN Act Play in Affirming Styling Autonomy?

The CROWN Act’s most tangible impact on styling heritage lies in its affirmation of individual autonomy. For too long, individuals with textured hair, particularly Black women, have faced immense pressure to conform to Eurocentric beauty standards, often involving chemical straightening or covering their natural hair. This pressure was not just social; it translated into tangible consequences in educational and professional settings.

A 2019 Dove CROWN Research Study revealed that Black women are 1.5 times more likely to be sent home from the workplace because of their hair. This statistic powerfully illustrates the systemic nature of hair bias.

The CROWN Act safeguards the right to wear culturally significant hairstyles, allowing individuals to express their heritage without fear of discrimination in daily life.

The legislation aims to dismantle these discriminatory practices by expanding the definition of race to include hair texture and protective hairstyles. This means that denying employment or educational opportunities based on styles like afros, braids, locs, or twists is now legally prohibited in states where the Act has passed. This legal protection frees individuals to choose styles that resonate with their heritage and personal comfort, rather than being forced to alter their hair to meet narrow, biased standards. It validates the beauty and professionalism of textured hair in all its forms, thereby promoting self-acceptance and cultural pride.

Relay

How does the CROWN Act, a modern legal instrument, truly bridge the chasm of historical prejudice and ancestral memory, allowing the soul of a strand to finally breathe unbound? This query beckons us to consider the deeper currents that connect biology, societal constructs, and the enduring spirit of heritage. The Act is more than a statute; it is a recognition of the profound psychological and cultural burdens carried by those whose hair has been deemed “other,” and a deliberate step toward re-centering ancestral wisdom within contemporary societal norms.

How does the CROWN Act Disrupt the Cycle of Inherited Hair Bias?

The biases against textured hair are not recent phenomena; they are deeply inherited, stemming from centuries of systemic racism that sought to devalue Black bodies and cultural expressions. During slavery, enslaved Africans were often forced to cut their hair, or conceal it, as their natural textures were deemed “unacceptable” and “unprofessional” in comparison to Eurocentric standards. This historical denigration of Black hair continued long after slavery’s abolition, permeating workplaces, schools, and public spaces. Discriminatory grooming policies became a subtle, yet powerful, manifestation of institutional racism.

The CROWN Act directly challenges this historical trajectory by expanding the definition of race in anti-discrimination laws to explicitly include hair texture and protective styles. This legislative intervention aims to eliminate the legal loopholes that allowed such biases to persist.

Consider the experiences of Black children in schools. Studies show that restrictive dress codes disproportionately affect students of color, with a 2021 Dove CROWN Research Study for Girls revealing that 45% of Black girls experienced hair bias at school, contributing to absences. The case of De’Andre Arnold and Kaden Bradford, who faced in-school suspension and exclusion from extracurricular activities and graduation for their uncut locs—a style honoring their Black and Trinidadian heritage—underscores the very real consequences of these biases. The CROWN Act, by prohibiting such discrimination in educational settings, seeks to dismantle these inherited prejudices at their very roots, allowing children to learn and grow without the burden of conforming their natural appearance.

The CROWN Act represents a legal affirmation of textured hair’s place in cultural identity, directly confronting historical prejudices that have long marginalized Black and mixed-race communities.

The psychological toll of hair discrimination is substantial. Individuals who face bias due to their natural hair often experience reduced self-esteem, increased anxiety, and a sense of hypervigilance about how their hair is perceived. This constant pressure to alter one’s hair to fit Eurocentric norms can lead to internalized racism and a disconnection from one’s cultural identity.

By providing legal recourse and affirming the right to wear natural hair, the CROWN Act mitigates these mental health impacts, promoting self-acceptance and a stronger sense of belonging. It validates the idea that textured hair is not merely “hair,” but a profound expression of identity and heritage.

What is the Enduring Significance of Hair in Black and Mixed-Race Identity?

The significance of hair in Black and mixed-race identity extends far beyond aesthetics; it is a profound cultural anchor, a symbol of resilience, and a living testament to ancestral survival. From ancient African civilizations where hair communicated social standing and spiritual beliefs, to the defiant hairstyles of the enslaved, hair has consistently served as a powerful medium of self-expression and community connection. The “Black is Beautiful” movement of the 1960s, for instance, saw the Afro hairstyle emerge as a potent statement against Eurocentric beauty norms, symbolizing Black pride and unity. This historical continuum highlights hair as a repository of cultural memory and a vehicle for collective identity.

The CROWN Act’s legislative framework directly supports this enduring significance by legally protecting the very expressions of identity that have historically been suppressed. By prohibiting discrimination based on hair texture and protective styles, the Act reinforces the idea that these hair choices are not merely personal preferences but deeply intertwined with racial and cultural identity. It enables individuals to wear their hair as a visible declaration of their heritage, whether it be in intricate braids, locs, or afros, without fear of professional or educational repercussions. This protection allows for the unhindered continuation of cultural practices and the open celebration of diverse Black and mixed-race identities in public spaces.

The Act also contributes to a broader societal shift, encouraging a re-evaluation of what constitutes “professionalism” and “beauty.” By challenging the notion that only straight hair is acceptable, it helps to dismantle implicit biases that have long marginalized textured hair. This shift is not just about legal compliance; it is about fostering a more inclusive society where the rich heritage of textured hair is understood, respected, and celebrated. The legal recognition provided by the CROWN Act thus plays a crucial role in ensuring that the stories held within each coil and kink can continue to be told, openly and without prejudice, across generations.

A specific historical example that powerfully illuminates the CROWN Act’s connection to textured hair heritage and Black experiences is the long-standing discrimination within the United States military. For decades, military grooming policies, initially designed for a predominantly white force, deemed natural Black hairstyles like braids, twists, and locs as “unprofessional” or “unkempt.” As recently as 2014, the Army updated its grooming standards to ban large cornrows, twists, and dreadlocks, sparking widespread criticism. This directly impacted Black women serving their country, forcing them to alter their hair in ways that were often damaging or culturally isolating.

The CROWN Act, though not a military-specific law, has undoubtedly influenced the military’s subsequent policy changes, with the Army lifting its ban on braids, twists, and dreadlocks in 2019, followed by the Navy and Air Force. This evolution demonstrates how legal and social pressures, like those championed by the CROWN Act, can compel institutions to acknowledge and rectify inherited biases, allowing Black service members to express their identity and heritage without sacrificing their careers.

This journey of legislative recognition is ongoing. As of September 2024, 27 states and Washington, D.C. have passed CROWN laws, with over 30 states having similar legislation filed or pre-filed. While a federal version of the CROWN Act has passed the House of Representatives, it has not yet been enacted into national law, underscoring the continued need for advocacy and awareness.

Reflection

The journey of textured hair, from ancient adornment to a symbol of contemporary self-determination, is a testament to the enduring spirit of heritage. The CROWN Act, in its quiet power, stands as a sentinel at a crossroads, guiding us toward a future where the beauty of every strand, every curl, every coil, is not just tolerated, but celebrated as a birthright. It reminds us that the Soul of a Strand is not merely a biological marvel, but a living archive of resilience, wisdom, and an unbroken lineage, forever weaving past, present, and future into a harmonious narrative.

References

• Byrd, A. & Tharps, L. (2001). Hair Story ❉ Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. St. Martin’s Press.
• Dabiri, E. (2020). Twisted ❉ The Tangled History of Black Hair Culture. Harper Perennial.
• Essel, K. (2017). Afrocultural Aesthetics ❉ A Study of African American Women’s Hair and Self-Esteem. Ohio University Press.
• Hooks, B. (1992). Black Looks ❉ Race and Representation. South End Press.
• Rooks, N. M. (1996). Hair Raising ❉ Beauty, Culture, and African American Women. Rutgers University Press.
• Tharps, L. (2001). Hair Story ❉ Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. St. Martin’s Press.
• Walker, M. C. J. (1928). Text Book of the Madam C.J. Walker Schools of Beauty Culture.