
Roots
The very strands that crown our heads carry echoes of ancient wisdom, stories whispered across generations, and the resilient spirit of a people. For those whose hair dances with coils, curls, and waves, this inheritance is not merely aesthetic; it is a profound connection to ancestry, a living archive of identity. Yet, for centuries, this beautiful lineage has been met with misunderstanding, judgment, and systemic barriers, casting shadows upon a heritage that should be celebrated. The CROWN Act emerges as a legislative beacon, a recognition that the texture and natural expressions of our hair are not merely personal choices, but deeply interwoven with our racial and cultural identity, a truth that ancestral hair discrimination has long sought to deny.
To truly grasp the significance of the CROWN Act, one must first listen to the whispers of the helix itself. Textured hair, often described with broad strokes, is a marvel of biological design. Its elliptical cross-section, the unique distribution of disulfide bonds, and the intricate way keratin proteins arrange themselves give rise to its distinctive coil patterns. These characteristics, passed down through genetic memory, are not random occurrences; they are adaptations shaped by climates, environments, and the deep currents of human migration across continents.
From the sun-drenched savannas to the humid river basins, hair evolved to protect, to adorn, and to communicate. The very architecture of a tightly coiled strand, with its inherent strength and capacity for shrinkage, speaks of a heritage of resilience.
The language used to describe hair, particularly textured hair, has often been fraught with colonial biases, creating classifications that prioritize a Eurocentric ideal. Systems attempting to categorize hair by number and letter, while seemingly scientific, frequently overlook the immense spectrum of Black and mixed-race hair, reducing its complexity to a simplified, often hierarchical, scale. This reductionist approach mirrors the historical attempts to diminish the cultural value and inherent beauty of diverse hair forms.
Our ancestors, conversely, possessed a rich lexicon for hair that spoke not of arbitrary types, but of styles, meanings, and the intricate rituals of care. The CROWN Act, in its quiet power, begins to dismantle these imposed, limiting vocabularies by affirming the right to wear hair in its natural, ancestral states without penalty.
The CROWN Act acts as a legal shield, safeguarding the intrinsic connection between textured hair and its ancestral origins against the long shadow of discrimination.
The discrimination against textured hair is not a modern phenomenon; it is a legacy deeply rooted in historical efforts to dehumanize and control. During the transatlantic slave trade, the intricate styling traditions of West African peoples were systematically suppressed, replaced by practices designed to strip enslaved individuals of their cultural markers and self-worth. Hair, once a symbol of status, spirituality, and tribal affiliation, became a site of oppression. Post-emancipation, discriminatory practices persisted, evolving into codes of conduct in workplaces and schools that deemed natural Black hair “unprofessional” or “distracting.” These policies, though seemingly neutral on their surface, disproportionately affected Black individuals, forcing them to alter their hair, often with damaging chemical treatments, to conform to Eurocentric beauty standards.
A stark illustration of this enduring ancestral hair discrimination surfaced in the case of Chastity Jones . In 2016, Ms. Jones, a Black woman, had a job offer from an insurance company in Alabama rescinded because she wore locs. The company stated her locs “tend to get messy” and were “against our policy.” Despite her meticulous care for her locs, the federal court ruled against her, finding that the company’s policy, though discriminatory, did not violate federal law at the time because locs were not considered an “immutable characteristic” of race (Equal Employment Opportunity Commission v.
Catastrophe Management Solutions, 2016). This decision laid bare the urgent need for legislation like the CROWN Act, which directly addresses the historical and ongoing prejudice against hairstyles inherently tied to Black identity and ancestral practices. The Act, by explicitly protecting styles like locs, braids, twists, and knots, confronts the very policies that allowed such discriminatory practices to persist, acknowledging the deep cultural and ancestral roots of these hair expressions.

Does Hair Growth Cycle Reflect Ancestral Adaptations?
The cycle of hair growth, from its active anagen phase to its resting telogen phase, holds subtle variations across different hair types. For textured hair, these cycles can be influenced by a complex interplay of genetic predispositions and historical environmental factors. Ancestral populations, living in diverse climates, developed hair characteristics that offered protection from sun, heat, and cold.
The dense coil patterns, for example, can create a natural insulation layer, while the slower growth rates observed in some textured hair types might be a physiological adaptation, conserving resources in environments where nutrition was historically variable. Understanding these biological realities, which are part of our shared ancestral heritage, helps us appreciate the natural inclinations of textured hair and informs contemporary care practices that honor its unique needs.

Ritual
As we move from the elemental understanding of the strand to the living traditions that adorn it, we enter the realm of ritual—the practices, techniques, and tools that have shaped and cared for textured hair across generations. This section explores how the CROWN Act safeguards these expressions, recognizing them not as mere trends, but as a continuum of ancestral artistry and communal wisdom. The journey of textured hair through history is a testament to ingenuity, resilience, and the profound significance of adornment as a cultural marker. These practices, passed down from elder to youth, are a tender thread connecting us to our past, and the CROWN Act works to ensure this thread remains unbroken in modern society.
The art of protective styling, deeply embedded in the heritage of Black and mixed-race communities, stands as a prime example of ancestral ingenuity. Styles such as cornrows, box braids, twists, and locs were not simply decorative; they served practical purposes ❉ preserving hair health, protecting it from environmental elements, and signifying social status or spiritual devotion. In many West African societies, intricate braiding patterns conveyed marital status, age, wealth, or even specific tribal affiliations.
These styles were often communal activities, fostering bonds and transmitting knowledge through touch and shared stories. The very act of braiding became a ritual of connection, a living expression of heritage.
The CROWN Act addresses ancestral hair discrimination by directly naming and protecting these styles, which have historically been targeted by discriminatory policies. Prior to this legislation, individuals wearing locs or braids were often deemed “unprofessional” in corporate settings, or students were suspended from school for wearing natural hairstyles. The Act counters this by affirming that these styles, which are integral to Black identity and ancestral practice, are legitimate and protected expressions. It dismantles the notion that hair must conform to a narrow, Eurocentric aesthetic to be considered acceptable, thereby upholding the right to wear one’s hair in ways that honor cultural lineage.

How Have Ancestral Tools Shaped Modern Styling?
The tools of hair care, from ancient combs carved from wood or bone to modern implements, tell a story of adaptation and innovation. Ancestral communities crafted tools from natural materials, understanding the gentle care required for textured strands. These tools, often simple yet effective, were designed to detangle, section, and sculpt hair without causing breakage. The knowledge embedded in their design informs contemporary tools, even as materials and technologies change.
- Combs ❉ Ancient African combs, often made from wood or ivory, featured wide teeth, ideal for gently detangling coiled hair and creating intricate parts for braiding.
- Hair Picks ❉ Tools similar to modern hair picks, used to lift and volumize, can be traced back to ancient Egyptian and West African cultures, where they served both functional and symbolic purposes.
- Styling Aids ❉ Natural substances like shea butter, various plant-based oils, and clays were used for centuries to condition, hold, and add luster to hair, providing a foundation for modern hair product formulations.
The evolution of styling techniques for natural hair also speaks to a deep connection to heritage. Techniques for defining coils, twists, and waves, while often appearing new, often echo methods used by our ancestors to enhance and maintain the natural beauty of their hair. The meticulous sectioning, twisting, and setting of hair seen today finds its roots in ancient practices of manipulating hair for both aesthetic and protective reasons.
The CROWN Act protects the historical and cultural expressions of textured hair, ensuring that ancestral styling practices are respected in contemporary spaces.
Even the use of wigs and hair extensions, often viewed through a modern lens, carries a rich historical and ancestral context. In many African societies, wigs and hairpieces were used for ceremonial purposes, to denote status, or as protective coverings. They were crafted with skill and artistry, often incorporating natural fibers or human hair.
This tradition of hair augmentation for adornment, protection, and expression has continued through the diaspora, providing versatility and creative freedom. The CROWN Act’s protection extends to these expressions, recognizing that hair choice, whether natural or augmented, is part of a broader cultural narrative.
| Ancestral Practice Braiding Patterns (e.g. Cornrows) |
| Cultural Significance/Purpose Signified tribal affiliation, marital status, age, or served as protective styles for long journeys. Often communal. |
| Modern Application/Link to CROWN Act Protected styles under CROWN Act; worn for cultural expression, low maintenance, and hair health. |
| Ancestral Practice Locing Hair |
| Cultural Significance/Purpose Spiritual significance, symbol of strength, identity, and resistance in various African and diasporic cultures. |
| Modern Application/Link to CROWN Act Explicitly protected by CROWN Act; worn as a natural hair choice and cultural statement. |
| Ancestral Practice Twisting Hair |
| Cultural Significance/Purpose Used for protection, creating texture, and preparing hair for other styles; often done with natural oils. |
| Modern Application/Link to CROWN Act Common protective style; CROWN Act ensures freedom to wear without discrimination. |
| Ancestral Practice Headwraps/Hair Coverings |
| Cultural Significance/Purpose Symbol of modesty, status, protection from elements, or spiritual practice across diverse cultures. |
| Modern Application/Link to CROWN Act Protected under CROWN Act in many contexts; worn for cultural identity, religious practice, or hair protection. |
| Ancestral Practice These practices underscore a deep heritage of hair care and expression, now affirmed by protective legislation. |
The CROWN Act, by specifically addressing these ancestral and culturally significant styling choices, sends a powerful message. It asserts that the beauty and professionalism of an individual are not dictated by their hair’s texture or style, but by their character and capabilities. This legislative step is a profound acknowledgment of the value and legitimacy of Black and mixed-race hair heritage, allowing individuals to honor their roots without fear of professional or social reprisal.

Relay
How does the CROWN Act, a legislative instrument of the present, truly resonate with the deep ancestral currents that have shaped our relationship with textured hair? This section delves into the sophisticated interplay between historical wellness philosophies, contemporary understanding, and the Act’s capacity to mend long-standing societal fissures. We seek to understand how this legislation, beyond mere legal protection, serves as a vital relay, transmitting the wisdom of past generations into a future where hair is celebrated in its full, glorious spectrum. It is a dialogue between ancient practices and modern legal frameworks, each informing the other in the pursuit of holistic well-being and cultural recognition.
Ancestral wisdom concerning hair care was often holistic, viewing the strands not in isolation but as an extension of overall well-being. Traditional practices frequently incorporated indigenous plants, oils, and clays, chosen for their medicinal and nourishing properties. These ingredients, sourced from the earth, were applied with intentionality, often accompanied by rituals that honored the hair as a sacred part of the self.
For instance, the use of shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), a staple across West Africa, dates back millennia, revered for its moisturizing and protective qualities for both skin and hair. This ancestral knowledge, passed down through oral traditions and communal grooming, represents a profound understanding of natural elements and their synergy with textured hair’s unique needs.

Does Ancestral Wellness Inform Modern Hair Health?
Indeed, modern scientific understanding often validates the efficacy of these time-honored practices. The emollient properties of shea butter, the cleansing power of African black soap, or the strengthening effects of certain herbal rinses, once attributed to mystical properties, are now understood through the lens of biochemistry and dermatology. The CROWN Act, by fostering an environment where natural hair and its care are accepted, indirectly encourages a return to or continuation of these ancestral wellness philosophies. When individuals are no longer compelled to chemically straighten or alter their hair to meet external standards, they are freer to pursue care regimens that align with their hair’s natural inclinations and their cultural heritage.
The CROWN Act acts as a legislative bridge, connecting ancestral hair care traditions with contemporary legal protections and fostering self-acceptance.
The nighttime sanctuary, often symbolized by the bonnet or headwrap, provides another profound link to ancestral practices. Across various African cultures, head coverings held immense cultural, social, and spiritual significance. They protected hair from dust and sun, indicated marital status, or served as expressions of piety. The modern bonnet, while serving a practical purpose of preserving hairstyles and preventing breakage, carries the silent legacy of these historical head coverings.
It is a small, yet potent, act of self-care that connects the present-day wearer to a lineage of individuals who understood the importance of protecting their hair, even in repose. The CROWN Act’s affirmation of natural hair allows this seemingly simple ritual to hold greater weight, as it supports the very hair type that benefits most from such protective measures.
The CROWN Act’s influence extends beyond individual protection; it contributes to a broader societal shift in perception. By codifying protection against hair discrimination, it challenges deeply ingrained biases that have historically devalued Black aesthetics. This legal recognition helps to dismantle the implicit and explicit rules that have forced individuals to choose between their cultural identity and their professional or educational advancement.
It is a powerful statement that textured hair, in all its ancestral glory, is inherently professional, beautiful, and worthy of respect. This societal validation, in turn, can have a profound psychological impact, fostering greater self-acceptance and pride within communities that have long faced pressure to conform.
The legislation also plays a crucial role in shaping future narratives. As more states adopt versions of the CROWN Act, it sets a precedent, influencing educational curricula, corporate diversity policies, and media representation. Children growing up in environments where their natural hair is affirmed from an early age are less likely to internalize negative messages about their appearance. This generational impact is perhaps the most significant relay of ancestral wisdom – the transmission of self-worth and cultural pride, unburdened by the historical weight of discrimination.
| Ancestral Ingredient Shea Butter (Butyrospermum parkii) |
| Traditional Use/Ancestral Benefit Deep moisturizer, scalp conditioner, sun protection, sealant for hair. Used across West Africa. |
| Modern Understanding/CROWN Act Relevance Rich in fatty acids and vitamins A & E; essential for retaining moisture in coiled hair. CROWN Act allows natural styles that benefit from its use. |
| Ancestral Ingredient Aloe Vera (Aloe barbadensis miller) |
| Traditional Use/Ancestral Benefit Soothing for scalp, promotes growth, adds shine. Used in various African and Caribbean traditions. |
| Modern Understanding/CROWN Act Relevance Contains enzymes and amino acids; aids in scalp health and moisture. Supports health of natural hair, which CROWN Act protects. |
| Ancestral Ingredient Hibiscus (Hibiscus sabdariffa) |
| Traditional Use/Ancestral Benefit Promotes hair growth, prevents hair loss, adds shine. Used in parts of West Africa and India. |
| Modern Understanding/CROWN Act Relevance Rich in antioxidants and amino acids; strengthens hair follicles. Encourages use of natural remedies for hair, aligning with CROWN Act's spirit. |
| Ancestral Ingredient Black Soap (African Black Soap) |
| Traditional Use/Ancestral Benefit Gentle cleanser, removes impurities without stripping oils. Originates from West Africa. |
| Modern Understanding/CROWN Act Relevance Natural saponins provide cleansing action; beneficial for sensitive scalps and textured hair. CROWN Act promotes acceptance of hair that thrives on such gentle, traditional cleansing. |
| Ancestral Ingredient These ingredients connect contemporary hair care to a rich lineage of natural wellness practices. |
The CROWN Act, in its quiet yet resolute way, acknowledges that the struggle for hair acceptance is not merely about appearance; it is about reclaiming a vital piece of ancestral heritage. It allows for the continued practice of cultural traditions, ensures equity in public spaces, and contributes to a collective healing from generations of systemic prejudice. This legislation is a living testament to the enduring power of textured hair as a symbol of identity, resilience, and pride, a heritage that continues to shape and enrich our world.

Reflection
The journey through the CROWN Act’s impact on ancestral hair discrimination reveals a truth far deeper than legislative text; it unearths the enduring spirit of the strand itself. Each coil, each twist, each loc carries within it the memory of generations, a testament to resilience and an unbroken chain of heritage. The Act, in its very essence, is a recognition of this profound legacy, allowing individuals to walk freely, their crowns adorned with the authentic beauty passed down through time. It is a quiet revolution, ensuring that the stories woven into textured hair—stories of artistry, community, and identity—can continue to be told without fear, shaping a future where every strand is celebrated as a unique, precious thread in the vast, vibrant tapestry of humanity.

References
- Byrd, A. D. & Tharps, L. D. (2014). Hair Story ❉ Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. St. Martin’s Griffin.
- Hooks, B. (1992). Black Looks ❉ Race and Representation. South End Press.
- Patton, M. (2006). African-American Hair ❉ A Cultural History. University Press of Florida.
- Porter, R. (2013). The Science of Black Hair ❉ A Comprehensive Guide to Textured Hair Care. CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform.
- Rooks, N. M. (1996). Hair Raising ❉ Beauty, Culture, and African American Women. Rutgers University Press.
- Russell, K. (2013). The Hair Story ❉ From Ancient Africa to the Present Day. Schiffer Publishing.
- Sweet, L. (2007). Hair ❉ A Cultural History. Crown Publishing Group.
- Walker, A. (2014). The Politics of Hair ❉ The African American Struggle for Beauty and Identity. Praeger.