# In What Ways Does Hair Typing Reflect Historical Biases against Textured Hair Heritage? ❉ Question

**Published:** 2025-06-10
**Author:** Roothea
**Categories:** Question

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![This image embodies the artistry of hair styling, reflecting a legacy of Black hair traditions and expressive styling. The precise parting and braiding signify a dedication to both personal expression and the ancestral heritage woven into the care of textured hair](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/precision-styling-and-braiding-textured-hair-artistry-and-cultural-expression.jpg)

## Roots

To truly understand the ways [hair typing](/area/hair-typing/) reflects historical biases against [textured hair](/area/textured-hair/) heritage, we must listen closely to the whispers carried by each curl, coil, and wave. These are not merely strands; they are living archives, imbued with the triumphs and struggles of generations. When we categorize hair into rigid numerical systems, we risk reducing a profound legacy to a mere classification, inadvertently echoing old, discomforting narratives. The journey to comprehend the textured hair experience, particularly within Black and mixed-race communities, invites a look beyond the surface, recognizing hair as a sacred connection to ancestry, identity, and spirit. 

![Radiant smiles reflect connection as textured hair is meticulously braided affirming cultural heritage, community and the art of expressive styling. This moment underscores the deep rooted tradition of Black hair care as self care, celebrating identity and skilled artistry in textured hair formation for wellness](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/women-braiding-textured-hair-black-hair-traditions-expressive-styling-portrait.jpg)

## Early Classifications and the Gaze of Power

The very concept of categorizing human hair, as we know it today, carries a troubling lineage. Long before the popular charts of our contemporary world, early scientific endeavors, often intertwined with colonial expansion and racial ideologies, sought to classify humanity based on physical traits. These efforts, particularly in the 19th and early 20th centuries, frequently positioned textured hair as a marker of perceived inferiority.

Scientific research on hair in the past hundred years typically classified hair based on race with only three types: Caucasian, Asian, and African, categories that failed to represent the actual diversity within populations. This era saw the emergence of tools and systems aimed at measuring proximity to so-called ‘whiteness’ based on hair texture.

> Hair typing, in its foundational historical expressions, served as a tool for racial categorization, aiming to quantify proximity to dominant beauty ideals.
One particularly stark example arises from the work of Eugen Fischer, a German Nazi scientist. In 1908, Fischer developed a ‘hair gauge’ to measure Namibians’ perceived proximity to whiteness based on their hair texture. This tool was deployed during a period of immense violence and subjugation in Namibia, a direct link between hair classification and the machinery of racial supremacy.

Such practices found echoes in other discriminatory systems, such as the Apartheid Pencil Test in South Africa, where if a pencil placed in hair stayed, the person could not be classified as white. This history reveals how classifying hair became a means to enforce social hierarchies, denying personhood and perpetuating harmful stereotypes against those with hair that deviated from European standards.

![Soft light reveals the beauty of coiled braids in this monochrome portrait. This is a visual narrative exploring nuanced aesthetics, braided coil formations, and the rich tapestry of mixed-race heritage, inviting reflection on ancestral connections and the personalized expression of identity through natural hair textures](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/monochrome-portrait-of-a-mixed-race-woman-with-braided-coiled-hairstyle.jpg)

## How Did Early Classifications of Textured Hair Reflect Colonial Mindsets?

Early classifications of textured hair were deeply symptomatic of colonial mindsets, which sought to order and control the world through a lens of racial hierarchy. Textured hair, particularly the tightly [coiled hair](/area/coiled-hair/) of African peoples, was often deemed ‘uncivilized’ or ‘unprofessional’ by European colonizers. This perception was not simply an aesthetic judgment; it was a strategic dehumanization, stripping enslaved Africans of their ancestral connections and cultural identifiers.

Slave traders would even shave the heads of newly enslaved people to humiliate them and sever their ties with their culture and homeland. The imposed [Eurocentric beauty standards](/area/eurocentric-beauty-standards/) created a pressure to conform, where proximity to ‘whiteness’ was not merely a cosmetic preference but sometimes, a matter of survival, with enslaved people possessing more ‘European’ features, including hair, receiving preferential treatment.

![Black obsidian](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/porous-black-obsidian-stone-texture-for-afro-hair-product-inspiration.jpg)

## The Andre Walker System and Its Legacy

Fast forward to the late 20th century, and a new hair typing system emerged, popularized by celebrity stylist Andre Walker in the 1990s. This system, classifying hair into types 1 (straight) through 4 (coily), with subcategories (a, b, c), became widely adopted within the beauty industry. While Walker’s stated intention was to help consumers understand and care for their hair, the system inadvertently carried forward a legacy of bias.

Its critics often point to an apparent hierarchy that places straighter textures at the top, implying a decreasing desirability or manageability as one moves towards the 4c spectrum. This subtle valuing of looser curl patterns contributed to what is now recognized as texturism, a form of discrimination where tighter, more coiled hair textures face prejudice.

Product formulations and marketing historically neglected or actively targeted textured hair with straightening chemicals. The widespread marketing of chemical relaxers, which semi-permanently alter the hair shaft, became deeply ingrained in [Black hair](/area/black-hair/) culture. These products, often containing harsh chemicals, were used to achieve straighter hair, a direct response to societal pressures and ingrained beauty standards.

The consumption of hair relaxers has seen a decline since 2011, a testament to the growing [natural hair](/area/natural-hair/) movement. Yet, the desire to alter [natural texture](/area/natural-texture/) persists, sometimes driven by the perception that hair closest to type 4 needs ‘improvement’ or ‘definition.’

![Bathed in sunlight, these Black and mixed-race women actively engage in hair care, highlighting the beauty and diversity inherent in textured hair formations. Their engagement is an act of self-love rooted in ancestral heritage, echoing a commitment to holistic hair wellness and empowered self-expression](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/black-and-mixed-race-women-combing-out-natural-hair-freshly-washed.jpg)

## The Language of Hair Classification: A Deep Dive

The very words we use to describe hair are imbued with historical connotations. Terms like ‘kinky,’ ‘woolly,’ or ‘nappy,’ historically applied to Afro-textured hair, have been used in derogatory ways. Even within systems that seem neutral, the descriptive language can inadvertently perpetuate negative associations. For instance, the [Andre Walker system](/area/andre-walker-system/) uses descriptors like ‘kinky-coily’ for type 4 hair, which critics argue carries a form of bias by focusing too much on race. 

Ancestral communities understood hair not through such rigid classifications, but through its spirit, its needs, and its deep connection to the individual and their community. Their lexicon for hair was rooted in observations of its qualities, its resilience, and its inherent beauty, rather than comparative judgments. The wisdom of these communities centered on responsive care, respecting hair’s natural inclinations, and celebrating its unique expressions. 

![Captured in monochrome, the child](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/portrait-of-a-child-with-beaded-braids-black-and-white-beauty.jpg)

## The Biology of Textured Hair: Unpicking Innate Qualities

From a biological standpoint, textured hair possesses unique characteristics that dictate its appearance and behavior. The shape of the hair follicle plays a significant role; those with curly and coily hair possess hook-shaped follicles, while straight hair grows from round follicles. This structural difference, along with the way disulfide bonds are arranged within the hair shaft, creates the spiraling pattern we recognize as texture. Dr.

Tina Lasisi, a biological anthropologist, theorizes that tightly coiled hair may have evolved as an adaptation to hot climates, offering protection from intense ultraviolet radiation. This biological reality speaks to hair’s natural diversity, a spectrum of beautiful variations that should be honored, not judged by systems that prioritize one form over another. An important insight from her research suggests that a truly diverse hair typing system would likely devote more than 75% of its categories to the vast diversity within very curly and tightly coiled hair. This highlights how current systems overemphasize the smaller range of variation seen in European hair, while minimizing the considerable spectrum within African and African-descendant hair.

![Hands gently work to form protective coils, reflecting deep rooted cultural traditions of textured hair care. This intimate moment connects to heritage, wellness, and the enduring legacy of styling Black hair, underscoring self expression within diverse communities](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/hands-crafting-protective-styles-for-textured-hair-coils-and-heritage.jpg)

![Intergenerational hands intertwine, artfully crafting braids in textured hair, celebrating black hair traditions and promoting wellness through mindful styling. This intimate portrait honors heritage and cultural hair expression, reflecting a legacy of expressive styling, meticulous formation, and protective care](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/intergenerational-hands-styling-braids-textured-black-hair-heritage-close-up.jpg)

## Ritual

The tending of textured hair has always been a profound ritual, a dialogue with ancestral memory and a living expression of communal artistry. These practices, often passed through generations, stand as testament to ingenuity and resilience, revealing how notions of hair typing have influenced, and at times, been resisted by, the heritage of care and styling. Each braid, each coil, each twist holds a story, a connection to ways of being that predate the imposition of external beauty standards. 

![Camellia seed oil, a legacy for textured hair wellness, embodies ancestral care and moisture. Its monochrome elegance connects historical beauty rituals to today](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/camellia-seed-oil-black-and-white-still-life-textured-hair.jpg)

## Protective Styling: A Shield of Cultural Memory

Protective styles, such as cornrows, braids, twists, and locs, represent ancient forms of hair artistry with deep roots in African cultures. Before the transatlantic slave trade, hairstyles served as complex visual codes, communicating a person’s age, marital status, wealth, ethnic identity, and even spiritual beliefs. These intricate designs were not mere adornments; they were historical documents, community identifiers, and even, at times, secret maps to freedom during enslavement. The continued practice of these styles today connects individuals to this powerful heritage, offering both physical protection for the hair and a strong affirmation of cultural identity. 

> Protective styles are living embodiments of ancestral wisdom, offering a shield for hair and a canvas for cultural narratives.
The influence of hair typing on these practices has been insidious. When hair types deemed ‘easier’ or ‘more manageable’ are implicitly or explicitly favored, the very act of protective styling can be framed as a necessity to control ‘unruly’ hair, rather than a celebration of its innate qualities or a preservation of ancestral practices. This bias can diminish the cultural significance of these styles, reducing them to mere maintenance techniques rather than expressions of a vibrant lineage. 

![Botanical textures evoke the organic foundations of holistic hair care, mirroring Black hair traditions and mixed-race hair narratives. This leaf arrangement, reminiscent of ancestral heritage, connects natural ingredients with expressive styling for texture, promoting wellness and celebrating the artistry of textured hair formations](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/artistic-black-and-white-leaves-arrangement-represents-natural-textured-hair.jpg)

## How Did Hair Typing Influence the Development of Tools for Textured Hair Care and Styling?

Hair typing systems, particularly those that implicitly ranked textures, profoundly influenced the development and marketing of [hair care](/area/hair-care/) tools. Early in the 20th century, as [Eurocentric beauty](/area/eurocentric-beauty/) ideals became dominant, tools designed to alter natural texture became widespread. The metal hot comb, invented in the 1880s, and later chemical relaxers, marketed by African Americans like Garrett Augustus Morgan in the early 1900s, offered pathways to straighten hair. These tools and chemical processes gained traction within communities where textured hair was often stigmatized, leading to the unfortunate reality of scalp burns and damage as a common part of the Black female experience. 

The availability of products and tools often aligned with the perceived ‘manageability’ of certain hair types. For those with tighter coils (often categorized as 4C), the market historically offered fewer products designed to nourish their natural texture, instead pushing solutions that would loosen or straighten it. This created a cycle where the very tools and products available reinforced the idea that certain hair types needed ‘fixing.’ 

![Against a backdrop of sunlit horizons, textured hair in the form of locs is silhouetted, evoking ancestral connections and symbolizing resilience. This image celebrates natural Black hair formations, its beauty, and historical significance in expressive Black cultural identity, wellness, and holistic care through styling](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/silhouette-of-person-with-locs-against-sunlight-revealing-textured-hair-heritage.jpg)

## Reclaiming Styling Autonomy: A Return to Heritage

The natural hair movement, gaining prominence in the 1960s and 70s as part of broader civil rights and Black power movements, represented a powerful rejection of these ingrained biases. It marked a conscious return to embracing one’s natural texture, shifting away from conformity and towards a celebration of inherent beauty. This movement challenged the notion that straight hair was the sole standard of beauty, promoting self-acceptance and a deeper connection to ancestral roots. 

This reclaiming of styling autonomy led to a renewed interest in traditional methods and ingredients that supported hair in its natural state. It was a conscious decision to value healthy, thriving hair over hair that conformed to a biased ideal. This cultural shift led to increased visibility of diverse textures and a demand for products designed to cater to the unique needs of coily and curly hair, rather than alter it. 

![The image beautifully captures the essence of textured hair artistry, reflecting ancestral heritage through expert sectioning and styling techniques. This moment highlights the care, tradition, and precision inherent in nurturing coiled hair formations, celebrating the legacy and beauty of Black hair traditions](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/black-and-white-image-of-textured-hair-parting-and-styling-process.jpg)

## Community and Shared Rituals: The Intergenerational Exchange

Hair care in many African and diasporic communities has always been a communal activity, a social event where women gathered, shared stories, and strengthened familial bonds. These intergenerational spaces served as crucial sites for transmitting knowledge about hair care, styling techniques, and the cultural significance of hair. Practices like braiding circles fostered a sense of belonging and reinforced shared heritage, far removed from the isolating, often damaging, practices driven by external beauty standards. 

The wisdom passed down in these communal settings focused on understanding individual hair needs through observation and tradition, rather than relying on generalized categories. It was a deep, intuitive knowledge of what the hair needed to flourish, built upon centuries of lived experience and collective wisdom. This rich heritage stands in contrast to rigid typing systems that can abstract hair from its living, breathing cultural context. 

![Captured in black and white, this evocative portrait features an individual with closely shaved textured hair, embracing their natural hair, inviting the beholder to reflect on the artistry of modern expression and the beauty found within simple, striking photographic contrast, and hair texture.](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/monochrome-portrait-diverse-model-short-natural-platinum-textured-hair-statement.jpg)

![The monochrome palette accentuates the woman](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/black-and-white-portrait-of-woman-with-natural-hair-in-headwrap.jpg)

## Relay

The journey of textured hair is an ongoing dialogue, a relay race where [ancestral wisdom](/area/ancestral-wisdom/) is passed to contemporary hands, continually shaping our understanding of holistic care and problem-solving. Hair typing, with its inherent biases, has often presented a hurdle in this race, yet the resilience of heritage ensures that the wisdom persists, offering paths to wellness that transcend reductive classifications. The very fiber of textured hair, with its unique structure and inherent needs, calls for a responsive, holistic approach, one rooted in a deep respect for its origins. 

![The baker’s flour-dusted hands reflect time-honored food preparation, linking generations through shared wellness practices. This black-and-white image evokes a quiet moment of creation while simultaneously celebrating the nourishment, ancestral identity, and expressive creativity embodied by mindful craftsmanship](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/crafting-dough-hands-deep-textured-hair-legacy-flour-dust-black-and-white.jpg)

## Holistic Health: Hair as a Reflection of Our Being

Ancestral wellness philosophies often viewed hair not merely as an appendage but as an extension of the self, deeply connected to one’s spiritual, physical, and emotional wellbeing. This perspective stands in stark contrast to the atomizing effect of hair typing systems, which tend to isolate hair into categories, disconnecting it from the whole person and their lived experience. In many traditional African cultures, hair held deep spiritual significance, considered a bridge between the living and the ancestral world, with specific rituals performed before important life events. This reverence meant that hair care was an act of nourishment for the body and the soul. 

![Embracing the ancestral heritage of holistic hair care, clear water enriches fenugreek seeds, releasing their potent benefits. This ancient ingredient nourishes Black hair traditions and mixed-race hair narratives, promoting expressive styling and resilient formations for generations](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/fenugreek-seeds-being-dosed-with-water-drops-close-up-black-and-white.jpg)

## The Nighttime Sanctum: Bonnet Wisdom and Protective Legacies

The practice of covering hair for protection, particularly during sleep, holds a long and multifaceted heritage. From ancient Egypt, where head coverings protected hair from the desert environment, to traditional African communities using headwraps to maintain styles and signify status, the wisdom of protecting hair has been consistent. During slavery, African American women used headwraps and bonnets as a crucial tool for protection against harsh conditions, and as a symbol of resilience and identity. By the 1950s, the bonnet had become a staple in textured hair care, preventing friction and moisture loss during sleep. 

> The enduring practice of wearing bonnets or headwraps for hair protection reflects a continuous thread of ancestral wisdom in hair care.
This tradition directly addresses the needs of textured hair, which is prone to dryness and breakage due to its unique coil pattern. The very act of wearing a bonnet safeguards moisture and preserves styles, an act of self-preservation and care passed down through generations. Hair typing systems, by focusing solely on curl pattern, often fail to adequately account for these underlying needs and the historical solutions that have emerged to address them. The modern resurgence of bonnets represents a reclaiming of this ancestral practice, prioritizing [hair health](/area/hair-health/) over perceived conformity. 

![The portrait captures a young girl](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/portrait-of-young-black-girl-with-high-density-afro-and-shadow-play.jpg)

## Do Hair Typing Systems Hinder a Holistic View of Hair Wellness Rooted in Ancestral Practices?

Hair typing systems can indeed hinder a holistic view of hair wellness, especially when that view is rooted in ancestral practices. Traditional hair care was not about fitting a curl into a predefined box; it was about observing the hair’s natural state, its response to the environment, and its individual needs, drawing upon a deep understanding of botanical and natural remedies. The wisdom of ancestral communities, like the Basara Tribe of T’Chad using chebe to retain length, or Ethiopian and Somali women using whipped animal milk as “hair butter,” shows a sophisticated understanding of hair’s needs, often relying on fats, oils, and herbs to maintain health and moisture. These practices address the hair’s density, porosity, and strength, elements that modern science also recognizes as critical for hair health, often more so than mere curl pattern. 

When a system categorizes hair primarily by its curl pattern, it can overshadow other vital considerations such as porosity (how well hair absorbs and retains moisture), density (how many strands are on the head), and strand thickness. These latter qualities are often more pertinent to determining a hair’s true needs and how it will respond to various products and treatments. A system that overemphasizes [curl pattern](/area/curl-pattern/) can inadvertently lead to a misdiagnosis of hair needs, pushing individuals to use products or techniques not suitable for their hair’s actual porosity or density, merely because they share a “type.” This can perpetuate cycles of damage or frustration, distancing individuals from the intuitive, responsive care that [ancestral practices](/area/ancestral-practices/) advocated. 

![Sunlight catches the halo of textured hair as a mother gently tends to her mixed-race child’s hair this nurturing act honors ancestral heritage and a commitment to the specialized care routines vital for strong, healthy, type 3C/4A curl formation, reflecting deep cultural and familial connection.](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/mother-combing-natural-textured-hair-of-mixed-race-child-outdoors-sunlight.jpg)

## Ingredients and Ancestral Wisdom: A Natural Pharmacy

The traditional pharmacopeia of [textured hair care](/area/textured-hair-care/) is rich with ingredients understood for their nutritive properties long before laboratory analysis. Natural butters, herbs, and powders were essential for moisture retention and scalp health. Shea butter, coconut oil, castor oil, and various herbal infusions have been used for centuries to moisturize, protect, and fortify hair. These ingredients were chosen for their proven efficacy in supporting the unique needs of diverse textures, promoting softness, strength, and resilience. 

- **Shea Butter** ❉ Extracted from the nuts of the African shea tree, it is renowned for its moisturizing and conditioning properties, widely used to seal in moisture for dry, textured hair.

- **African Black Soap** ❉ Traditionally used for cleansing the hair and scalp, it offers gentle yet effective purification, often made from plantain skins, palm tree leaves, cocoa pods, and shea tree bark.

- **Chebe Powder** ❉ Originating from Chadian communities, this blend of herbs is applied to hair strands to prevent breakage and promote length retention by fortifying the hair shaft.

- **Castor Oil** ❉ Known for its thick consistency, this oil, especially Jamaican Black Castor Oil, is prized for stimulating hair growth and strengthening hair roots, a common practice across the diaspora.
The knowledge of these ingredients and their targeted application was passed down through generations, forming a practical and deeply intuitive science. This body of knowledge offers a stark contrast to modern marketing that often categorizes products solely by hair type, sometimes overlooking the foundational elements of hair health rooted in this ancient wisdom. 

![The evocative monochrome portrait emphasizes the model](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/striking-portrait-of-black-woman-with-short-natural-textured-hair-style.jpg)

## Beyond the Strand: Hair as a Medium for Self-Determination

Challenging the limitations of hair typing systems allows for a profound liberation, moving beyond prescribed notions of beauty towards a celebration of inherent diversity. This shift supports individual and collective identity, fostering self-acceptance and pride in one’s [textured hair heritage](/area/textured-hair-heritage/). When we recognize that hair is a symbol of resilience, cultural heritage, and connection to ancestral roots, we dismantle the biases that have historically marginalized it. 

The ongoing conversation about hair discrimination, evidenced by movements like the CROWN Act, underscores the persistent impact of these biases in various settings. The CROWN Act, which aims to prohibit discrimination against natural hair in workplaces and schools, highlights the reality that Black women, especially those with coily or textured hair, are twice as likely to experience microaggressions at work. A 2023 study found that Black women’s hair is 2.5 times as likely as white women’s hair to be perceived as ‘unprofessional,’ leading 66% of Black women to change their hair for a job interview, with 41% altering it from curly to straight.

This data powerfully illuminates how hair typing, even if an informal understanding, has real-world consequences, reflecting systemic inequities that demand deep reconsideration. The embrace of natural hair becomes an act of self-determination, a powerful statement of cultural pride and a rejection of narratives that diminish any aspect of one’s inherited self.

![The woman](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/striking-black-and-white-profile-of-a-woman-with-coiled-hair-updo.jpg)

![Braided formations and coin ornamentation, captured in monochrome, reflect a legacy of self-expression. Cultural pride resonates through the detailed hair work, embodying wellness through ancestral hairstyles](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/monochrome-portrait-of-woman-adorned-with-braids-and-coin-headdress.jpg)

## Reflection

The journey through the intricate world of textured hair, from its foundational biology to the echoes of ancestral rituals, reveals a profound truth: hair typing, while seemingly a neutral classificatory tool, carries the indelible imprint of historical biases. It stands as a silent testament to centuries of imposition, where Eurocentric [beauty standards](/area/beauty-standards/) attempted to flatten the glorious spectrum of [human hair](/area/human-hair/) into a hierarchy, devaluing the vibrant, resilient textures that are intrinsic to Black and mixed-race heritage. 

Yet, within every curl and coil resides a spirit of unwavering resilience. The very acts of cultivating natural hair, of embracing protective styles, and of returning to the wisdom of ancestral ingredients are not mere trends; they are continuous acts of reclamation. They are a profound meditation on self-acceptance, a conscious unearthing of a heritage that was systematically suppressed. The Soul of a Strand, then, is not merely a metaphor; it is the enduring narrative of identity, connection, and liberation, written in the very fiber of our being.

By understanding the historical undercurrents that have shaped hair typing, we equip ourselves to dismantle remaining prejudices and to champion a future where every texture is celebrated as a unique, powerful expression of its ancestral lineage. This collective wisdom, passed down through generations, invites us to look beyond rigid classifications and instead, to see hair as a living, breathing archive of identity, deeply rooted in the enduring spirit of heritage.

![Radiant portrait celebrates the artistry of finger waves, an iconic style embodying black beauty heritage. The carefully crafted undulations and subtle gloss reflect ancestral techniques and contemporary flair](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/elegant-portrait-of-young-black-woman-featuring-exquisite-finger-waves-hairstyle.jpg)

![This captivating portrait showcases the interplay of monochrome tones and textured hair enhanced with silver, reflecting the beauty of mixed-race hair narratives and ancestral heritage within expressive styling, inviting viewers to contemplate the depths of identity through hair.](/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/monochrome-portrait-of-a-woman-with-textured-hair-and-silver-adornments.jpg)

## References

- Byrd, Ayana. <i>Hair Story: Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America_. St. Martin’s Press, 2001.

- Dabiri, Emma. _Twisted: The Tangled History of Black Hair Culture_. Harper Perennial, 2020.

- Donaldson, Star. “The Controversial History of the Hair Typing System.” Byrdie, 25 Oct. 2021.

- Donaldson, Star. “4c Hair Discrimination: An Exploration Of Texturism.” Forbes, 24 July 2022.

- Donaldson, Star. “The History of Hair Typing Systems.” Byrdie, YouTube, 18 Oct. 2021.

- Irizarry, Yasmiyn. _The Irizarry Hair Texture Scale_. OSF, 2023.

- Johnson, Chelsea Mary Elise. _Natural: Black Beauty and the Politics of Hair_. New York University Press, 2024.

- “The Science of Curly Hair Typing.” CurlsBot, 8 Mar. 2025.

- Walker, Susannah. _Style and Status: Selling Beauty to African American Women, 1920-1975_. Ohio University Press, 2007.

- WebMD Editorial Contributors. “Hair Types: Straight, Wavy, Curly, and Coily.” WebMD, 2 May 2025.

- Wilcox, Amanda. “Femininity, Hair Relaxers, and the Impact of Beauty Standards on Black Women’s Health.” _The Yale Global Health Review_, 27 Oct. 2017.

## Glossary

### [Hair Health](https://roothea.co/area/hair-health/)

Meaning ❉ Hair Health, for textured strands, denotes a state of optimal scalp vitality and fiber integrity, where each coil and kink displays balanced hydration and intrinsic resilience.

### [Textured Hair Care](https://roothea.co/area/textured-hair-care/)

Meaning ❉ Textured Hair Care refers to the considered practice of attending to the unique structure of coily, kinky, and wavy hair, particularly for those with Black and mixed-race heritage.

### [Eurocentric Beauty](https://roothea.co/area/eurocentric-beauty/)

Meaning ❉ Eurocentric Beauty describes an aesthetic framework that historically positions features and hair textures common in European populations as the prevailing ideal.

### [Hair Culture](https://roothea.co/area/hair-culture/)

Meaning ❉ Hair Culture, within the realm of textured hair, signifies the established body of understanding, systematized practices, and their daily implementation for Black and mixed-race hair types.

### [Racial Hair Typing](https://roothea.co/area/racial-hair-typing/)

Meaning ❉ Racial Hair Typing refers to a historical classification system that sought to organize the varied textures of hair, often by associating specific curl patterns ❉ such as the defined spirals of 3C or the tighter coils of 4A ❉ with racial or ethnic origins.

### [Ancestral Data Biases](https://roothea.co/area/ancestral-data-biases/)

Meaning ❉ Ancestral Data Biases, within the gentle landscape of textured hair understanding, refer to the quiet, inherited assumptions and established practices that subtly guide our present-day hair care philosophies.

### [Black Hair](https://roothea.co/area/black-hair/)

Meaning ❉ Black Hair describes the spectrum of hair textures primarily found within communities of African heritage, recognized by its distinct curl patterns ❉ from expansive waves to tightly coiled formations ❉ and an often elliptical follicle shape, which fundamentally shapes its unique growth trajectory.

### [Coiled Hair](https://roothea.co/area/coiled-hair/)

Meaning ❉ Coiled hair refers to hair strands forming very tight, often microscopic, helical or spring-like patterns, common within hair types typically categorized as 4A, 4B, and 4C, particularly among Black and mixed-race individuals.

### [Beauty Biases](https://roothea.co/area/beauty-biases/)

Meaning ❉ Beauty Biases refer to the subtle, often unconscious, frameworks that shape societal perceptions of hair attractiveness, frequently privileging specific textures over the inherent diversity of coils and curls.

### [Black Beauty Standards](https://roothea.co/area/black-beauty-standards/)

Meaning ❉ Black Beauty Standards, in the context of textured hair, refer to the evolving set of societal and cultural ideals that have historically dictated what is considered aesthetically pleasing for Black and mixed-race hair.

## Explore Your Heritage

### [In What Ways Do Traditional Practices Reflect Textured Hair Heritage?](https://roothea.co/question/in-what-ways-do-traditional-practices-reflect-textured-hair-heritage/)
![The subject](https://roothea.co/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/radiant-woman-with-textured-locs-expressing-joy-and-cultural-pride.jpg)

### [Do Modern Grooming Standards Carry Historical Biases against Textured Hair?](https://roothea.co/question/do-modern-grooming-standards-carry-historical-biases-against-textured-hair/)
![This monochromatic portrait captures the essence of modern African diasporic identity, showcasing a short, textured afro style that celebrates natural hair. The image embodies strength, confidence, and a reclamation of self-expression, resonating with ancestral heritage and holistic beauty ideals.](https://roothea.co/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/striking-portrait-of-young-black-woman-with-short-tapered-afro-hairstyle.jpg)

### [How Do Historical Biases Impact Textured Hair Wellness Today?](https://roothea.co/question/how-do-historical-biases-impact-textured-hair-wellness-today/)
![Illuminating a connection between heritage and contemporary style, the portrait honors Black hair traditions. The circular braid embodies cultural artistry, while the monochromatic palette amplifies the impact, inviting reflection on identity, self-expression, and the elegance of natural hair textures.](https://roothea.co/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/monochromatic-portrait-of-black-woman-with-intricate-braided-halo-hairstyle.jpg)

### [What Ancestral Practices Kept Textured Hair Resilient against Breakage?](https://roothea.co/question/what-ancestral-practices-kept-textured-hair-resilient-against-breakage/)
![Skillful hands secure a turban, a protective and meaningful style choice for textured hair, blending ancestral wisdom with contemporary expression, rooted in holistic wellness practices and promoting healthy hair formation through gentle care.](https://roothea.co/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/styling-a-turban-black-and-brown-heritage-textured-hair-updo-hairstyle.jpg)

### [What Historical Biases against Textured Hair Did the Movement Confront?](https://roothea.co/question/what-historical-biases-against-textured-hair-did-the-movement-confront/)
![The image captures the strength and beauty of a woman](https://roothea.co/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/striking-portrait-of-black-woman-displaying-braided-bantu-knots-hairstyle.jpg)

### [What Historical Foods Strengthened Textured Hair against Breakage?](https://roothea.co/question/what-historical-foods-strengthened-textured-hair-against-breakage/)
![This composition captures the essence of moringa, prized in textured hair care for its moisturizing and strengthening properties, connecting ancestral practices with mindful self care. These seeds embody the power of nature and heritage in promoting vibrant, healthy, resilient coils.](https://roothea.co/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/moringa-seeds-detailed-black-and-white-study-health-benefits-textured-hair.jpg)

### [In What Ways Did Shea Butter Affirm Textured Hair Identity against Prevailing Norms?](https://roothea.co/question/in-what-ways-did-shea-butter-affirm-textured-hair-identity-against-prevailing-norms/)
![The striking interplay of light and shadow across layered leaves mirrors the varied tones and rich textures within black hair. This composition invites reflection on ancestral knowledge and the potent botanical ingredients traditionally cherished for nourishing and supporting healthy coil definition and resilience.](https://roothea.co/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/monochromatic-leaves-reveal-textural-depths-black-hair-ingredient-inspiration.jpg)

### [How Do Historical Biases against Textured Hair Shape Modern Beauty Standards?](https://roothea.co/question/how-do-historical-biases-against-textured-hair-shape-modern-beauty-standards/)
![Hands gently work to form protective coils, reflecting deep rooted cultural traditions of textured hair care. This intimate moment connects to heritage, wellness, and the enduring legacy of styling Black hair, underscoring self expression within diverse communities.](https://roothea.co/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/hands-crafting-protective-styles-for-textured-hair-coils-and-heritage.jpg)

### [Ancestral Data Biases](https://roothea.co/term/ancestral-data-biases/)
![This black and white portrait captures the serene dignity of a Bolivian woman, showcasing her traditional dress and expertly braided textured hair, a potent symbol of cultural identity and ancestral heritage. The aguayo shawl and bowler hat frame her expressive features, conveying depth and inner strength.](https://roothea.co/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/bolivian-woman-wearing-traditional-aguayo-shawl-and-hat-black-and-white-portrait.jpg)

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                "text": "\nEarly classifications of textured hair were deeply symptomatic of colonial mindsets, which sought to order and control the world through a lens of racial hierarchy. Textured hair, particularly the tightly coiled hair of African peoples, was often deemed 'uncivilized' or 'unprofessional' by European colonizers. This perception was not simply an aesthetic judgment; it was a strategic dehumanization, stripping enslaved Africans of their ancestral connections and cultural identifiers. Slave traders would even shave the heads of newly enslaved people to humiliate them and sever their ties with their culture and homeland. The imposed Eurocentric beauty standards created a pressure to conform, where proximity to 'whiteness' was not merely a cosmetic preference but sometimes, a matter of survival, with enslaved people possessing more 'European' features, including hair, receiving preferential treatment.\n"
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                "text": "\nHair typing systems, particularly those that implicitly ranked textures, profoundly influenced the development and marketing of hair care tools. Early in the 20th century, as Eurocentric beauty ideals became dominant, tools designed to alter natural texture became widespread. The metal hot comb, invented in the 1880s, and later chemical relaxers, marketed by African Americans like Garrett Augustus Morgan in the early 1900s, offered pathways to straighten hair. These tools and chemical processes gained traction within communities where textured hair was often stigmatized, leading to the unfortunate reality of scalp burns and damage as a common part of the Black female experience.\n"
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                "text": "\nHair typing systems can indeed hinder a holistic view of hair wellness, especially when that view is rooted in ancestral practices. Traditional hair care was not about fitting a curl into a predefined box; it was about observing the hair's natural state, its response to the environment, and its individual needs, drawing upon a deep understanding of botanical and natural remedies. The wisdom of ancestral communities, like the Basara Tribe of T'Chad using chebe to retain length, or Ethiopian and Somali women using whipped animal milk as \"hair butter,\" shows a sophisticated understanding of hair's needs, often relying on fats, oils, and herbs to maintain health and moisture. These practices address the hair's density, porosity, and strength, elements that modern science also recognizes as critical for hair health, often more so than mere curl pattern.\n"
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            "@id": "https://roothea.co/area/textured-hair/",
            "name": "Textured Hair",
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            "description": "Meaning ❉ Textured hair describes the natural hair structure characterized by its unique curl patterns, ranging from expansive waves to closely wound coils, a common trait across individuals of Black and mixed heritage."
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            "@id": "https://roothea.co/area/hair-typing/",
            "name": "Hair Typing",
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            "description": "Meaning ❉ Hair Typing offers a framework for understanding the unique curl patterns, coil formations, and wave textures present across Black and mixed-race hair."
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            "@id": "https://roothea.co/area/coiled-hair/",
            "name": "Coiled Hair",
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            "description": "Meaning ❉ Coiled hair refers to hair strands forming very tight, often microscopic, helical or spring-like patterns, common within hair types typically categorized as 4A, 4B, and 4C, particularly among Black and mixed-race individuals."
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            "@type": "DefinedTerm",
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            "name": "Eurocentric Beauty Standards",
            "url": "https://roothea.co/area/eurocentric-beauty-standards/",
            "description": "Meaning ❉ Eurocentric beauty standards denote a historical leaning towards hair characteristics commonly found within European lineages, such as straightness, fineness, or gentle waves, alongside particular color and density ideals."
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            "@type": "DefinedTerm",
            "@id": "https://roothea.co/area/black-hair/",
            "name": "Black Hair",
            "url": "https://roothea.co/area/black-hair/",
            "description": "Meaning ❉ Black Hair describes the spectrum of hair textures primarily found within communities of African heritage, recognized by its distinct curl patterns ❉ from expansive waves to tightly coiled formations ❉ and an often elliptical follicle shape, which fundamentally shapes its unique growth trajectory."
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            "@id": "https://roothea.co/area/natural-texture/",
            "name": "Natural Texture",
            "url": "https://roothea.co/area/natural-texture/",
            "description": "Meaning ❉ Natural Texture refers to the inherent physical characteristics of hair as it grows from the scalp, unaltered by chemical treatments or significant heat manipulation."
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            "@id": "https://roothea.co/area/natural-hair/",
            "name": "Natural Hair",
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            "description": "Meaning ❉ Natural Hair describes hair that maintains its original structural configuration, untouched by chemical processes like relaxers, texturizers, or permanent color that alter its natural coil, curl, or wave definition."
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            "@id": "https://roothea.co/area/andre-walker-system/",
            "name": "Andre Walker System",
            "url": "https://roothea.co/area/andre-walker-system/",
            "description": "Meaning ❉ The Andre Walker System offers an early framework for understanding the diverse world of textured hair, primarily classifying curl patterns into a numerical and alphabetical scale."
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        {
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            "@id": "https://roothea.co/area/eurocentric-beauty/",
            "name": "Eurocentric Beauty",
            "url": "https://roothea.co/area/eurocentric-beauty/",
            "description": "Meaning ❉ Eurocentric Beauty describes an aesthetic framework that historically positions features and hair textures common in European populations as the prevailing ideal."
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            "@id": "https://roothea.co/area/hair-care/",
            "name": "Hair Care",
            "url": "https://roothea.co/area/hair-care/",
            "description": "Meaning ❉ Hair Care, when understood through the lens of textured hair, signifies a mindful discipline for preserving the vigor of coily, kinky, and wavy strands."
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            "@type": "DefinedTerm",
            "@id": "https://roothea.co/area/ancestral-wisdom/",
            "name": "Ancestral Wisdom",
            "url": "https://roothea.co/area/ancestral-wisdom/",
            "description": "Meaning ❉ Ancestral Wisdom, for textured hair, represents the enduring knowledge and discerning observations gently passed through generations concerning the unique character of Black and mixed-race hair."
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            "@type": "DefinedTerm",
            "@id": "https://roothea.co/area/hair-health/",
            "name": "Hair Health",
            "url": "https://roothea.co/area/hair-health/",
            "description": "Meaning ❉ Hair Health, for textured strands, denotes a state of optimal scalp vitality and fiber integrity, where each coil and kink displays balanced hydration and intrinsic resilience."
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            "@type": "DefinedTerm",
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            "name": "Ancestral Practices",
            "url": "https://roothea.co/area/ancestral-practices/",
            "description": "Meaning ❉ Ancestral Practices, within the context of textured hair understanding, describe the enduring wisdom and gentle techniques passed down through generations, forming a foundational knowledge for nurturing Black and mixed-race hair."
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            "name": "Curl Pattern",
            "url": "https://roothea.co/area/curl-pattern/",
            "description": "Meaning❉ Curl Pattern denotes the inherent, consistent helical formation of hair strands, a fundamental characteristic distinguishing the natural geometry of Black and mixed heritage hair."
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        {
            "@type": "DefinedTerm",
            "@id": "https://roothea.co/area/textured-hair-care/",
            "name": "Textured Hair Care",
            "url": "https://roothea.co/area/textured-hair-care/",
            "description": "Meaning ❉ Textured Hair Care refers to the considered practice of attending to the unique structure of coily, kinky, and wavy hair, particularly for those with Black and mixed-race heritage."
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        {
            "@type": "DefinedTerm",
            "@id": "https://roothea.co/area/textured-hair-heritage/",
            "name": "Textured Hair Heritage",
            "url": "https://roothea.co/area/textured-hair-heritage/",
            "description": "Meaning ❉ \"Textured Hair Heritage\" denotes the deep-seated, historically transmitted understanding and practices specific to hair exhibiting coil, kink, and wave patterns, particularly within Black and mixed-race ancestries."
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        {
            "@type": "DefinedTerm",
            "@id": "https://roothea.co/area/beauty-standards/",
            "name": "Beauty Standards",
            "url": "https://roothea.co/area/beauty-standards/",
            "description": "Meaning ❉ Beauty Standards often describe societal ideals dictating what is considered appealing, particularly concerning appearance."
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            "@id": "https://roothea.co/area/human-hair/",
            "name": "Human Hair",
            "url": "https://roothea.co/area/human-hair/",
            "description": "Meaning ❉ Human Hair, for those tending to textured strands, signifies more than a biological fiber; it holds a special place within individual identity and heritage."
        },
        {
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            "@id": "https://roothea.co/area/hair-culture/",
            "name": "Hair Culture",
            "url": "https://roothea.co/area/hair-culture/",
            "description": "Meaning ❉ Hair Culture, within the realm of textured hair, signifies the established body of understanding, systematized practices, and their daily implementation for Black and mixed-race hair types."
        },
        {
            "@type": "DefinedTerm",
            "@id": "https://roothea.co/area/racial-hair-typing/",
            "name": "Racial Hair Typing",
            "url": "https://roothea.co/area/racial-hair-typing/",
            "description": "Meaning ❉ Racial Hair Typing refers to a historical classification system that sought to organize the varied textures of hair, often by associating specific curl patterns ❉ such as the defined spirals of 3C or the tighter coils of 4A ❉ with racial or ethnic origins."
        },
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            "@type": "DefinedTerm",
            "@id": "https://roothea.co/area/ancestral-data-biases/",
            "name": "Ancestral Data Biases",
            "url": "https://roothea.co/area/ancestral-data-biases/",
            "description": "Meaning ❉ Ancestral Data Biases, within the gentle landscape of textured hair understanding, refer to the quiet, inherited assumptions and established practices that subtly guide our present-day hair care philosophies."
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            "name": "Beauty Biases",
            "url": "https://roothea.co/area/beauty-biases/",
            "description": "Meaning ❉ Beauty Biases refer to the subtle, often unconscious, frameworks that shape societal perceptions of hair attractiveness, frequently privileging specific textures over the inherent diversity of coils and curls."
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            "name": "Black Beauty Standards",
            "url": "https://roothea.co/area/black-beauty-standards/",
            "description": "Meaning ❉ Black Beauty Standards, in the context of textured hair, refer to the evolving set of societal and cultural ideals that have historically dictated what is considered aesthetically pleasing for Black and mixed-race hair."
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```


---

**Original URL:** https://roothea.co/question/in-what-ways-does-hair-typing-reflect-historical-biases-against-textured-hair-heritage/
