Roots
Our hair, coiled or straight, long or short, holds ancestral whispers. It carries stories of identity, community, and spirit. For those with textured hair, particularly individuals of Black and mixed-race descent, the strands emerging from our scalps are more than biological fibers; they are living archives, repositories of a deep heritage.
To truly appreciate the journey of textured hair care, we must peer back through time, before the imposition of foreign ideologies, to understand the intricate relationship between hair, traditional ingredients, and the very soul of a people. How did the shadow of colonial history alter this sacred connection, reshaping practices that once flowed from the earth itself?
Pre-Colonial Hair as a Living Language
Before the arrival of colonizers, hair in African societies, and among Indigenous peoples across various continents, was a profound symbolic tool. It communicated a wealth of information: a person’s age, marital status, social rank, tribal affiliation, spiritual beliefs, and even their occupation. Hair styling was a cherished social activity, a communal ritual where bonds deepened and ancient knowledge passed from elder to youth. In West Africa, for example, hairstyles conveyed tribal affiliation and social standing.
The Yoruba people of Nigeria created intricate styles to symbolize community roles, while the Himba tribe in Namibia used a mixture of red ochre paste and butter for their locs, symbolizing their connection to the land and ancestors. This was a time when hair was intrinsically linked to personal and collective identity.
Hair, in ancestral traditions, was a vibrant script, telling stories of lineage and life stage.
Indigenous communities in North America also viewed hair as a life force and spiritual source. Hair length, style, and adornments often linked to tribal identity and spiritual practices. For many Native American men, long hair signified tribal identity, spiritual connection, and personal freedom.
Prior to European contact, various tribes had distinct hairstyles, rich with cultural and spiritual significance. The meticulous care of hair was a daily task, involving considerable time and using materials found in their natural surroundings.
The Disruption of Traditional Practices and Ingredients
The advent of colonialism and the transatlantic slave trade violently ruptured these established traditions. One of the first acts of slave traders upon capturing Africans was to cut their hair. This act served to sever ties to communities, erase identities, and inflict a deep, psychological wound.
The dehumanization continued as European colonists classified Afro-textured hair as closer to fur or wool, rather than human hair, validating their enslavement and exploitation. This deliberate othering aimed to dismantle the cultural meanings and communal care rituals associated with textured hair.
For enslaved Africans, access to traditional hair care tools and indigenous ingredients vanished. Forced into new, harsh environments, they had to improvise. The inventive spirit of survival meant using what little was available: substances like bacon grease, kerosene, or butter were applied as conditioners in an attempt to maintain hair in the brutal conditions of plantation life. This marked a profound shift, replacing centuries of specialized knowledge about plant botanicals and natural oils with whatever meager resources could be found.
How Did Displacement Alter Ancestral Hair Sciences?
The forced migration and enslavement of African peoples directly impacted the application of traditional hair science. In pre-colonial Africa, diverse ingredients from the continent’s rich botanical landscape were commonly used.
- Shea butter (Vitellaria paradoxa): Extracted from the nuts of the shea tree, revered as “The Sacred Tree of the Savannah,” this butter was a versatile ingredient for both skin and hair, valued for its moisturizing properties. It protected hair from harsh environmental conditions.
- African Black Soap ❉ A traditional West African soap, often made from shea butter and plant ash, used for gentle cleansing of hair and scalp.
- Marula oil ❉ From Mozambique and South Africa, this “liquid gold” oil, sourced from marula fruit kernels, was known for antioxidants and essential fatty acids, offering nourishment.
- Chebe powder ❉ Originating from the Basara Arab women of Chad, this powder, made from a blend of herbs and seeds (like Croton zambesicus, Mahllaba Soubiane, cloves), traditionally coated and protected hair, promoting length retention by preventing breakage and locking in moisture.
- Ghee (clarified butter) ❉ Used in Ethiopian communities for hair care, known for its moisturizing attributes.
These ingredients, selected for specific biochemical properties and cultural significance, were part of a sophisticated, inherited knowledge system. When this system was forcibly dismantled, the immediate concern shifted from optimal hair health and symbolic expression to mere survival and basic maintenance under duress. The continuity of traditional ingredient use was severed, leading to a loss of specific preparation methods and the deeper understanding of their efficacy.
Ritual
The hands that once braided stories into hair, using ingredients harvested with intention, found themselves constrained by new realities. Colonial rule systematically undermined indigenous beauty standards, replacing them with Eurocentric ideals that deemed textured hair “unprofessional” or “unruly.” This shift reshaped not only perceptions of beauty but also the very rituals of care and styling. What historical pressures forced a turning away from ancestral hair practices?
The Imposition of European Standards and Their Tools
During the transatlantic slave trade, and continuing through colonial periods, African and Indigenous hair was actively devalued. White slave owners often referred to Black hair as “wool,” a derogatory term meant to justify their supposed inferiority. This classification, along with forced head-shaving upon capture, served as a tool of humiliation and cultural erasure. In missionary schools, African children were often compelled to shave their heads, a practice that persisted in some public schools even into recent times.
The colonial gaze re-labeled ancestral beauty as disheveled, forcing adaptations that distanced many from their hair’s natural inclinations.
This environment created immense pressure to conform. Lighter skin and straighter hair became associated with higher social status and increased opportunities, a hierarchy deeply rooted in European beauty standards. This pressure led to the adoption of new methods and ingredients, often harmful, aimed at altering hair texture to mimic European straightness. The focus shifted from enhancing natural texture with traditional plant-based oils and butters to achieving a straightened appearance, even at significant cost to hair health.
The Emergence of Alterative Practices
The desire for “acceptable” hair led to inventive, though often damaging, practices. Early methods included the use of hot combs and harsh chemicals to “tame” textured hair. The first documented hair relaxer, for example, was developed in 1909 by Garrett Augustus Morgan, initially as a solution for sewing machine friction.
He adapted it into a hair straightening cream, sold to Black and mixed-race people. This early relaxer, a concoction of lye and potatoes, could straighten hair but often burned the scalp and caused damage.
These practices represent a painful adaptation, a way to survive and access opportunities in a society that penalized natural textured hair. While traditional ingredients provided nourishment and celebrated inherent qualities, these new, imposed practices sought to change the very structure of the hair.
What Were the Societal Repercussions of Hair Discrimination?
The “good hair” narrative, which equated straighter hair with beauty and professionalism, deeply affected communities. It created internal divisions and perpetuated the idea that natural hair was unkempt. This pressure extended to all aspects of life, with “good hair” sometimes acting as a prerequisite for gaining access to schools, churches, and businesses. Even after slavery ended, this mindset endured, shaping social and career opportunities.
For instance, a 2023 survey found that African American women’s hair was more than twice as likely to be considered “unprofessional,” and one-fifth had been sent home from work due to their hair. Sixty-six percent of African American women had changed their hair to avoid discrimination in job interviews. These statistics reveal the persistent shadow of colonial beauty standards, compelling individuals to chemically alter their hair at a young age to meet societal expectations.
Relay
The journey of textured hair care from pre-colonial reverence to colonial subjugation, and now towards reclamation, reveals a deeply interwoven history. It is a story of enduring resilience, a continuous struggle to honor ancestral wisdom while navigating contemporary pressures. How do we, in this modern age, reconcile the scientific understanding of textured hair with the ancient practices that colonialism sought to erase?
Reclaiming the Ancestral Apothecary
The inherent properties of textured hair, characterized by its unique coily, kinky, or wavy patterns, often result in a tendency towards dryness due to the difficulty of natural oils traveling down the hair shaft. This anatomical reality makes moisture retention a central tenet of traditional care, a truth understood intuitively by ancestors and now validated by modern hair science. The oils, butters, and clays used historically were not merely cosmetic; they were deeply functional, providing crucial lipids, humectants, and protective barriers.
The science behind ingredients like shea butter, rich in fatty acids and vitamins, speaks to its emollient properties, perfect for sealing in hydration. Chebe powder’s ability to coat hair strands and prevent breakage aligns with its traditional use for length retention, a physical benefit now understood through the lens of hair fiber mechanics. The knowledge, though disrupted, was scientifically sound, derived from generations of observation and experimentation.
Modern formulations, while benefiting from advanced chemistry, sometimes echo these ancient principles. The goal, increasingly, is not to alter the hair’s inherent structure, but to support it, to restore the hair to its optimal state, much like ancestral practices aimed to do.
What Can Contemporary Care Learn from Ancient Wisdom?
The path forward involves a careful examination of ancestral methods and their scientific underpinnings. This includes:
- Gentle Cleansing ❉ Traditional cleansers, such as African Black Soap, offered effective yet mild alternatives to harsh modern sulfates, which can strip hair of essential moisture.
- Deep Conditioning ❉ The consistent use of butters and oils like shea and marula provided deep conditioning, creating a protective layer that minimized moisture loss and shielded hair from environmental stressors.
- Protective Styling as a Health Practice ❉ Ancestral styles such as cornrows, braids, and twists were not only aesthetic but also protective, minimizing manipulation and breakage, allowing hair to retain length and strength. These styles served as a form of resistance during enslavement, with women braiding rice seeds or maps into their hair as tools for survival.
- Holistic Approach to Wellness ❉ Hair care was not isolated from overall wellbeing. Diet, stress, and spiritual balance all played a part in hair health, a comprehensive perspective that modern wellness movements are rediscovering.
The Enduring Battle against Hair Bias
Despite growing awareness and the natural hair movement, the legacy of colonial beauty standards persists. Discrimination based on textured hair remains a contemporary challenge, particularly in professional and academic settings. In some parts of the world, school authorities still force students to cut their hair short, perpetuating outdated colonial attitudes. This bias illustrates how deeply ingrained Eurocentric ideals have become, influencing policies and societal perceptions.
The fight for hair acceptance continues through legislative efforts, such as the CROWN Act in the United States, which aims to prohibit discrimination based on hair texture and protective hairstyles. These legal protections serve as a crucial step in dismantling the systemic biases that stem directly from colonial ideologies.
The return to traditional ingredients and styles is not merely a cosmetic choice; it is an act of defiance and reclamation. It represents a conscious decision to reconnect with ancestral knowledge, to heal historical wounds, and to celebrate the inherent beauty of textured hair. It is a powerful affirmation of identity, a way to honor the past while shaping a more inclusive future for generations to come.
Reflection
Our strands hold ancient wisdom. They tell of resilience, transformation, and a profound connection to the earth and the hands that nurtured them. The indelible mark of colonial history on textured hair care practices and traditional ingredients stands as a stark reminder of how systemic oppression sought to diminish a vibrant heritage.
Yet, the story does not conclude with loss. It carries forward with the persistent heartbeat of ancestral knowledge, echoing through generations, guiding us back to the richness that was once suppressed.
To tend to textured hair with the reverence it deserves means more than simply applying product. It involves listening to the whispers of grandmothers, understanding the science hidden within ancient botanicals, and recognizing the profound cultural significance of every coil and kink. This journey, a continuous unwinding of imposed narratives and a re-centering of innate beauty, reminds us that our hair is a living, breathing archive. It carries the wisdom of resilience, a radiant testament to a heritage that refuses to be silenced, continuously unfolding its truths in a world eager to learn.
References
- Byrd, A. & Tharps, L. (2001). Hair Story: Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. St. Martin’s Press.
- King, V. & Niabaly, D. (2013). The Politics of Black Women’s Hair. Journal of Undergraduate Research at Minnesota State University, Mankato, 13, Article 4.
- Heaton, S. (2021). Heavy is the Head: Evolution of African Hair in America from the 17th c. to the 20th c. Library of Congress.
- Tshiki, N. A. (2021). African Hairstyles ❉ The “Dreaded” Colonial Legacy. The Gale Review.
- Setlaelo, S. (2022). Black Women’s Hair Consciousness and the Politics of Being. Eidos A Journal for Philosophy of Culture, 6(3), 24-43.
- Lesesne, T. A. (2002). The Politics of Black Women’s Hair. Phylon (1960-), 50(1/2), 70-80.
- Jackson-Lowman, K. (2014). The Psychological Impact of Eurocentric Beauty Standards on Black Women. Journal of Black Studies, 45(1), 3-18.
- Phoenix, A. (2014). Skin, Hair and Other Bodily Markers: Black and White Adolescent Girls Negotiating Ethnic-Racial Identity. Ethnic and Racial Studies, 37(13), 2322-2339.
- Hassan, S. & Hassan, K. (2021). How Eurocentric beauty standards get under the skin. The Queen’s Journal.