In what ways did colonial eras impact textured hair heritage?

Roots

For those who carry the lineage of textured hair, the very strands that crown us hold whispers of ancestral lands, of sun-drenched rituals, and of a heritage that defied the crushing weight of erasure. Our hair, in its myriad coils, kinks, and waves, is not merely a biological feature; it is a living archive, a testament to resilience, beauty, and identity. To understand how colonial eras impacted this sacred heritage is to journey through centuries of deliberate suppression and remarkable persistence, to witness how a natural crown became a battleground, and how its spirit, against all odds, continued to shine. This exploration invites us to look deeply, to listen to the echoes of the past, and to recognize the profound connection between historical forces and the intimate landscape of our textured hair.

The Pre-Colonial Crown

Before the shadows of colonial ships stretched across the shores of Africa, hair was a vibrant language, speaking volumes about a person’s life, status, and spirit. In pre-colonial African societies, hairstyles were far more than adornments; they were intricate systems of communication. A person’s coiffure could convey their geographic origin, marital status, age, ethnic identity, religious affiliation, wealth, and social rank. Among the Yoruba people of Nigeria, for example, intricate hairstyles symbolized community roles, and hair itself was considered the most elevated part of the body, with braided styles used to send messages to the gods (Abeyta, 2019).

The care of hair was a communal act, a shared ritual of washing, combing, oiling, braiding, or twisting, often adorned with beads, shells, or cloth. These practices were not solitary routines but opportunities for bonding, for sharing stories, and for reinforcing familial and communal ties. (Abeyta, 2019; Afriklens, 2024).

Pre-colonial African hair practices were deeply embedded in social, spiritual, and cultural life, serving as powerful markers of identity and community.

The Imposition of Erasure

The arrival of colonial powers brought with it a devastating disruption to this rich heritage. Enslavement, the brutal engine of colonialism, sought to dismantle every aspect of African identity, and hair became a primary target. One of the first acts of dehumanization upon capture, prior to boarding slave ships, was the forcible shaving of hair. This was a deliberate attempt to strip individuals of their visual cultural identity, to sever their connection to their roots, and to crush their spirit (Randle, 2015, p.

116, cited in ResearchGate, 2024). This act was not about hygiene; it was a calculated assault on the ancestral significance of hair, transforming it from a symbol of pride and belonging into a marker of subjugation.

The colonial mindset, rooted in white racial supremacy, imposed Eurocentric beauty standards that deemed textured hair as “unruly,” “kinky,” or “woolly,” comparing it to animal fur and branding it as inferior (Thrifts & Tangles, 2021; Fernandez Knight & Long, 2022). This devaluation extended to the very people who possessed such hair, creating a racial hierarchy where lighter skin and straighter hair were privileged. This systemic bias influenced generations, creating internalised perceptions of “good” versus “bad” hair within Black and mixed-race communities, a concept directly linked to proximity to whiteness (Forbes, 2022; Tate, 2007, cited in OSF, 2023).

• Forced Assimilation ❉ The systematic suppression of traditional African hairstyles and the imposition of Eurocentric beauty ideals aimed to dismantle cultural identity.
• Dehumanization through Hair ❉ Shaving of heads during enslavement was a deliberate act to strip identity and break spirit.
• Creation of “Good” and “Bad” Hair ❉ Colonial beauty standards led to the internalisation of hierarchies, favoring straight hair over textured hair.

Ritual

Stepping into the realm of ritual, we consider how the profound disruptions of colonial eras reshaped the daily practices and ancestral wisdom surrounding textured hair. The colonial encounter, with its insidious pressures and overt violence, sought to sever the deep, spiritual connection to hair that existed in pre-colonial African societies. Yet, even in the face of such profound oppression, the human spirit, particularly within Black and mixed-race communities, found ways to preserve, adapt, and even transform hair rituals into acts of quiet resistance and enduring cultural affirmation. This section explores how ancestral practices were challenged, modified, and sometimes, with remarkable ingenuity, became vehicles for coded communication and communal solidarity, reflecting a continuous thread of heritage.

The Subversion of Control

The colonial agenda extended beyond physical control, aiming to colonize the very perception of beauty and self-worth. In New Orleans, for instance, the infamous Tignon Laws of 1786, enacted by Spanish colonial Governor Don Esteban Miró, mandated that free Creole women of color cover their hair with scarves (tignons) in public. This law was a direct attempt to diminish their perceived attractiveness to white men and to symbolically relegate them to the status of enslaved individuals, regardless of their actual freedom (Pitts, 2021; Young, 2020, cited in Scientific Research Publishing, 2020; VICE, 2018).

However, in a testament to the indomitable spirit of resistance, these women transformed the mandated head coverings into elaborate, fashionable statements, embellishing them with such artistry that the tignon became a symbol of empowerment and revolution (Pitts, 2021; Young, 2020, cited in Scientific Research Publishing, 2020). This historical example vividly illustrates how an imposed ritual of concealment was subverted into a powerful expression of cultural defiance and enduring beauty.

Across the diaspora, the simple act of hair care, once a communal celebration, became a clandestine ritual, a whispered exchange of ancestral knowledge. Enslaved individuals, stripped of their traditional tools and ingredients, adapted. They used whatever was available—greases, oils, and even unconventional substances—to maintain their hair, not just for practical reasons but as a defiant act of self-preservation and connection to a lost heritage (Byrd & Tharps, 2001, cited in Amazon.com, 2020). The intricate patterns of cornrows, which in Africa could denote tribal affiliation or social standing, sometimes served as maps for escape routes, their braids concealing rice or seeds for survival during desperate journeys (Johnson & Bankhead, 2014, cited in Scientific Research Publishing, 2023).

Reshaping Beauty Standards

The colonial period also introduced a profound shift in beauty ideals, with Eurocentric features becoming the dominant standard (Theseus, 2024). This pressure to conform led to the widespread adoption of practices like hair straightening, using harsh chemicals or heat, often at great personal cost to hair health (Fernandez Knight & Long, 2022). The concept of “good hair” became synonymous with straight or loosely curled textures, while tightly coiled hair was labeled “bad” or “unprofessional” (OSF, 2023; PMC, 2023). This imposed hierarchy created a complex relationship with hair within Black communities, where self-worth could become intertwined with the ability to achieve a more European appearance.

The colonial era forced textured hair into a crucible of suppression, yet within this crucible, acts of resistance and adaptation transformed ancient rituals into symbols of enduring heritage.

The impact of this forced assimilation is still felt today. A 2020 study by the JOY Collective highlights the persistent pressure Black women face to alter their natural hair to fit Eurocentric standards (cited in OSF, 2023). This ongoing phenomenon, often termed ‘texturism,’ privileges hair textures closer to white and continues to contribute to discrimination in various settings, including workplaces and schools (Forbes, 2022). However, this historical context also lays the groundwork for understanding the contemporary natural hair movement, which is a powerful reclamation of ancestral aesthetics and a rejection of colonial beauty dictates (Afriklens, 2024).

Relay

How did the colonial assault on textured hair heritage, a profound historical wound, become a wellspring for contemporary movements of reclamation and a catalyst for scientific re-evaluation? This query leads us into the deepest currents of influence, where the echoes of colonial subjugation reverberate through modern understandings of hair biology, cultural identity, and the very language we use to describe textured strands. Here, we delve into the sophisticated interplay of historical trauma and enduring ancestral wisdom, observing how the past continues to shape the present and inspire future directions in hair science and cultural affirmation.

The Science of Othering

The colonial legacy is starkly visible in the historical development of hair classification systems. The earliest iterations, developed in the early 1900s by figures like Eugen Fischer, a Nazi German scientist and eugenicist, were designed to determine “Blackness” based on hair texture (Forbes, 2022). Fischer’s system, used in present-day Namibia during a period of mass genocide, sought to establish a racial hierarchy, classifying hair types to understand an individual’s “proximity to whiteness” (Forbes, 2022). This pseudo-scientific categorization contributed directly to the subjugation of indigenous populations (Forbes, 2022).

Even modern hair typing systems, while seemingly benign, carry vestiges of these historically biased frameworks, perpetuating hierarchies that privilege straight hair and looser curls over tightly coiled textures (OSF, 2023; PubMed Central, 2021). The very language used to describe hair, often employing terms like “woolly” or “kinky” with derogatory connotations, stems from these colonial narratives that sought to dehumanize and diminish textured hair (Thrifts & Tangles, 2021; Érudit, 2019).

Colonial-era pseudo-science laid the groundwork for biased hair classification systems that continue to influence perceptions of textured hair.

The anthropological lens itself, particularly in its early forms, was often entangled with colonial power dynamics, seeking to categorize and understand diverse cultures through a Western gaze (Berghahn Journals, 2018). This historical context is vital for contemporary hair science, urging a decolonization of research methodologies to avoid perpetuating past prejudices. A rigorous scientific approach to textured hair now seeks to understand its unique anatomical and physiological properties without the distorting lens of racialized hierarchies. For instance, research on hair cortisol levels, which can be influenced by hair type, necessitates a careful consideration of how hair classification has been historically used, advocating for approaches that allow for variability within racial groups rather than relying on outdated, biologically dubious categories like “negroid” or “caucasoid” (PubMed Central, 2021).

The study of ethnobotany offers a counter-narrative, revealing the sophisticated ancestral knowledge of plants used for hair care in pre-colonial Africa. While research on African ethnobotanical hair care is scarce, there is a growing recognition of the topical nutrition and therapeutic mechanisms present in traditional plant-based therapies (ResearchGate, 2024). These practices, often dismissed or suppressed during colonial times, are now being re-examined for their scientific validity, bridging ancient wisdom with modern understanding. The very resilience of traditional hair care practices, passed down through generations despite colonial efforts to eradicate them, speaks to a profound understanding of hair health rooted in the earth’s bounty.

• Historical Hair Classification ❉ Early systems like Fischer’s were rooted in eugenics, linking hair texture to racial hierarchies.
• Persistent Texturism ❉ Modern hair typing systems can still carry biases, favoring straighter textures.
• Ethnobotanical Wisdom ❉ Ancestral knowledge of plants for hair care represents a profound, often overlooked, scientific heritage.

Cultural Reclamation and Future Paths

The ongoing struggle against hair discrimination, epitomized by movements like the CROWN Act, directly confronts the enduring legacy of colonial beauty standards (Monmouth University, 2025; OSF, 2023). These legal and policy measures aim to combat bias based on hair texture and styles, representing critical anti-discrimination efforts to address systemic inequities (OSF, 2023). The shift towards embracing natural hair, seen in the natural hair movement, is a powerful act of decolonization, a conscious choice to reclaim ancestral aesthetics and challenge Eurocentric norms (Thrifts & Tangles, 2021; Macalester College, 2022). This movement is not simply about personal style; it is a collective anti-racist politics, a form of individual and communal resistance to societal beauty norms (Macalester College, 2022).

The impact of colonial eras on textured hair heritage is a complex story of oppression and profound resilience. The historical stigma attached to tightly coiled hair, once used to justify slavery and racial hierarchies (Byrd & Tharps, 2001, cited in Smith Scholarworks, 2020), is being systematically dismantled. This journey of reclamation is deeply personal for many, as highlighted by a study of Jamaican-Canadian women who use Black feminist thought to reclaim and redefine their sense of self, transcending restrictive beauty standards imposed by colonial systems (Jamaican-Canadian Women’s Cross Cultural Hair Experiences, n.d.).

Their narratives, and those of countless others across the diaspora, demonstrate how hair becomes a tool for negotiating and constructing identity, even within historically white institutions (Fernandez Knight & Long, 2022). The ongoing conversation about textured hair is a testament to the enduring power of heritage, a living dialogue between past struggles and future aspirations, where every coil and curl stands as a symbol of defiance and enduring beauty.

Reflection

The journey through the colonial impact on textured hair heritage is not merely a recounting of historical facts; it is a meditation on the soul of a strand, a deep acknowledgment of the enduring spirit woven into every curl and coil. Our exploration reveals that textured hair, far from being a simple biological attribute, stands as a living, breathing archive of human experience, a testament to resilience, and a profound connection to ancestral wisdom. The deliberate acts of erasure and the imposition of foreign beauty ideals during colonial eras were attempts to sever this vital link, to diminish a people by devaluing their inherent beauty. Yet, in the quiet acts of resistance, in the ingenuity of adaptation, and in the vibrant resurgence of natural hair movements today, we witness the unwavering power of heritage.

Each strand carries the memory of a past that sought to confine it, and the promise of a future where its innate splendor is celebrated without reservation. This continuous unfolding of history within our hair reminds us that true wellness begins with honoring our roots, embracing our authentic selves, and recognizing the profound legacy that flows through us, unbound and radiant.

References

• Abeyta, A. (2019). 4c Hair Discrimination ❉ An Exploration Of Texturism. Forbes.
• Afriklens. (2024). African Hairstyles ❉ Cultural Significance and Legacy. Afriklens.
• Berghahn Journals. (2018). Canon Fire – Decolonizing the Curriculum. Berghahn Journals.
• Byrd, A. D. & Tharps, L. L. (2001). Hair Story ❉ Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. St. Martin’s Press.
• Fernandez Knight, S. M. & Long, W. (2022). Narratives of Black Women on Hair in the Workplace. Scientific Research Publishing.
• Jamaican-Canadian Women’s Cross Cultural Hair Experiences. (n.d.). Empowerment through Black Feminist Thought.
• Macalester College. (2022). Curls, Kinks and Colonization ❉ The Decolonization of Afrodescendant Women’s Bodies in Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic. DigitalCommons@Macalester College.
• Monmouth University. (2025). The History of Black Hair. LibGuides at Monmouth University.
• OSF. (2023). The Irizarry Hair Texture Scale. OSF.
• PMC. (2023). The Person Beneath the Hair ❉ Hair Discrimination, Health, and Well-Being. PubMed Central.
• Scientific Research Publishing. (2020). Rhetoric of Natural Hair ❉ Cultural Contradictions. Scientific Research Publishing.
• Scientific Research Publishing. (2023). Cornrow ❉ A Medium for Communicating Escape Strategies during the Transatlantic Slave Trade Era ❉ Evidences from Elmina Castle and Centre for National Culture in Kumasi. Scientific Research Publishing.
• Smith Scholarworks. (2020). The natural hair transformation ❉ a journey of resilience and resistance. Smith Scholarworks.
• Theseus. (2024). The Effect of Eurocentric Beauty. Theseus.
• Thrifts & Tangles. (2021). The Evolution of Black Hair for Beauty & Resistance. Thrifts & Tangles.
• VICE. (2018). When Black Women Were Required By Law to Cover Their Hair. VICE.