How has the perception of textured hair in Brazil shifted over time?

Roots

The story of textured hair in Brazil is not merely one of shifting aesthetics; it is a profound journey through the very soul of a nation, a testament to the enduring spirit of its people. For generations, the perception of textured hair in Brazil has been intricately woven into the complex tapestry of racial identity, social hierarchy, and the persistent echoes of colonial influence. To truly grasp this transformation, one must first reach back to the source, to the ancestral lands and the arrival of enslaved Africans, whose hair, in its myriad forms, carried not just beauty but also deep cultural meaning and a silent, powerful resistance. From the vibrant coils of the Yoruba, the intricate patterns of the Bantu, and the resilient strands of the Jeje, a rich heritage of hair traditions arrived on Brazilian shores, a heritage that would face relentless assault yet ultimately persist and reassert itself.

In Brazil, unlike some other nations of the African diaspora, racial classification has historically relied heavily on physical markers, with hair texture often serving as a primary indicator of one’s place within a nuanced, often discriminatory, social order. The concept of “good hair” versus “bad hair” became a deeply ingrained societal construct, with “bad hair” explicitly linked to African ancestry. This classification system, born from the ideology of Branqueamento—a deliberate governmental and societal project to “whiten” the Brazilian population through European immigration and the promotion of interracial marriages—sought to diminish and erase Black and Indigenous identities. This aspiration for whiteness permeated Brazilian society, influencing beauty standards and perpetuating the notion that lighter skin and straighter hair were symbols of social status and economic privilege.

Yet, within this challenging historical context, textured hair remained a powerful, albeit often suppressed, marker of identity and cultural continuity. It was a silent language, a living archive of ancestral wisdom passed down through generations. The very act of maintaining one’s natural hair, or shaping it into traditional styles, became an act of quiet defiance against a system designed to strip away cultural memory. The roots of this resilience lie deep within the collective memory of a people who understood that their hair was not merely an aesthetic feature but a profound connection to their origins.

Ancestral Echoes of Hair Anatomy

To speak of textured hair is to speak of its elemental biology, a marvel of nature’s design. From a scientific perspective, textured hair possesses a unique follicular structure, often elliptical in cross-section, which gives rise to its characteristic curls, coils, and waves. This inherent structural difference, while simply a biological variation, became politicized in Brazil. Historically, the scientific understanding of hair was often filtered through a Eurocentric lens, leading to mischaracterizations or outright dismissal of the beauty and health of textured hair.

Yet, ancestral knowledge, passed down through oral traditions and hands-on practices, held a deep, intuitive understanding of these very characteristics, long before modern microscopy. They understood the hair’s need for moisture, its propensity for shrinkage, and the strength inherent in its spiraled form.

Colonial Shadows and Classification Biases

The imposition of European beauty standards during the colonial period profoundly distorted the perception of textured hair. Terms like “cabelo ruim” (bad hair) became commonplace, reflecting a deeply ingrained prejudice that equated African hair textures with unattractiveness and inferiority. This linguistic imposition was not accidental; it was a deliberate tool of cultural subjugation, designed to dismantle self-worth and sever ties to ancestral identity. The desire to conform led many to chemical straightening, a practice that, while offering a semblance of societal acceptance, often came at the cost of hair health and a deeper connection to one’s authentic self.

Petrônio Domingues’s research revealed that hair perming was practiced as a symbol of beauty and modernity even in the late 1920s, yet it was sometimes condemned within Candomblé communities, highlighting the internal tensions within Black communities regarding hair practices and identity. (Domingues, 2002)

The historical perception of textured hair in Brazil is inseparable from the legacy of branqueamento, a whitening ideology that sought to erase Black and Indigenous identities through imposed beauty standards.

The Lexicon of Brazilian Hair

The language used to describe textured hair in Brazil is itself a reflection of this shifting perception. Beyond the derogatory “cabelo ruim,” a richer, more descriptive vocabulary has slowly reclaimed its place, particularly with the rise of natural hair movements. Terms like Crespo (kinky), Cacheado (curly), and Ondulado (wavy) now carry a sense of pride and specificity, allowing for a more nuanced and respectful dialogue about diverse hair types.

This linguistic reclamation is a vital step in decolonizing the mind, as it challenges the historical narrative that sought to homogenize and devalue Black hair. The very act of naming one’s hair with reverence is a powerful assertion of identity and heritage.

Consider the contrast:

• Cabelo Ruim ❉ A derogatory term, deeply rooted in racist ideologies, signifying hair deemed undesirable.
• Cabelo Crespo ❉ A term now used with pride, describing tightly coiled hair, acknowledging its natural form.
• Cabelo Cacheado ❉ Referring to curly hair, celebrated for its bounce and volume.

This linguistic shift reflects a broader societal movement towards recognizing and celebrating the diversity of Brazilian hair, moving beyond the simplistic, prejudiced binaries of the past.

Hair Growth Cycles and Ancestral Factors

While the biological cycle of hair growth remains constant, historical and ancestral factors played a role in hair health and appearance. Access to nourishing foods, traditional herbal remedies, and community-based care practices all contributed to the vitality of hair. In quilombos, communities formed by escaped enslaved people, ancestral knowledge of local plants and natural ingredients would have been crucial for hair care, maintaining not only physical health but also cultural practices. These practices, born of necessity and passed through generations, stand as a testament to the ingenuity and resilience of Afro-Brazilian communities, preserving a vital aspect of their heritage even under extreme duress.

Ritual

Stepping into the realm of ritual, one truly begins to comprehend the dynamic nature of textured hair in Brazil. The initial understanding of hair’s fundamental aspects now deepens, as we explore how historical currents and ancestral wisdom have shaped the very practices and techniques applied to textured strands. This section acknowledges a shared journey, one where the physical manipulation of hair becomes a profound expression of identity, community, and resistance, echoing traditions that have been both preserved and transformed over centuries. It’s an invitation to consider the tender, purposeful gestures that have long defined the relationship between Afro-Brazilians and their hair, revealing a narrative far richer than mere aesthetics.

Protective Styling Ancestral Roots

The practice of protective styling, so central to textured hair care today, possesses deep ancestral roots in Brazil. During the era of slavery, enslaved Africans ingeniously adapted their traditional braiding techniques, not only for practical reasons of hair management and hygiene but also as a clandestine form of communication and resistance. Nagô braids, for instance, were more than just hairstyles; they were cultural, affective, and affirmative channels for Black culture.

These intricate styles, often incorporating hidden messages or even maps for escape routes, served as a powerful means to preserve cultural identity and resist the dehumanizing forces of enslavement. This legacy of resistance through hair continues to resonate, with styles like box braids symbolizing strength and resilience for Afro-Brazilian women.

The cultural significance of braids in Brazil is profound, serving as a connection to African heritage and a statement of identity. The documentary “Enraizadas” (Rooted), directed by Gabriele Roza and Juliana Nascimento, highlights how nagô braids acted as a form of resistance during slavery, transmitting cultural values across generations. (Vieira, 2020) This historical context elevates protective styling beyond a simple beauty choice, grounding it firmly in a powerful heritage of survival and self-assertion.

Natural Styling and Traditional Definition

The journey towards natural styling in Brazil has been a cyclical one, marked by periods of suppression and resurgence. For decades, the dominant beauty ideal, heavily influenced by European aesthetics, pushed for straightened hair, leading to widespread use of chemical relaxers. Yet, traditional methods for defining and celebrating natural textures persisted within communities, often passed down through familial lines. These methods, utilizing natural ingredients and gentle manipulation, represent a quiet, enduring form of heritage preservation.

The recent “transição capilar” (hair transition) movement, gaining significant momentum since the mid-2010s, marks a powerful return to these ancestral practices. This movement, driven largely by Black women, is a conscious rejection of imposed beauty standards and a reclaiming of authentic identity. It’s a testament to the enduring power of self-acceptance and the deep connection to one’s roots.

The “transição capilar” movement in Brazil represents a powerful societal shift, a collective reclaiming of authentic textured hair as a symbol of self-acceptance and cultural pride.

The impact of the transição capilar is evident in the market as well. The Brazil natural hair care product market generated a revenue of USD 366.3 million in 2024 and is expected to reach USD 604.9 million by 2030, growing at a CAGR of 9.2% from 2025 to 2030. This growth underscores a significant cultural and economic shift, reflecting a widespread embrace of natural hair and a demand for products that support its unique needs.

Turbantes and Headwraps ❉ A Historical and Cultural Expression?

Headwraps, or Turbantes, carry immense historical and cultural weight in Brazil, particularly for Afro-Brazilian women. Their origins trace back to enslaved Africans who brought these traditions from their homelands. Initially serving practical purposes like carrying baskets or protecting hair, turbantes quickly became powerful symbols of identity, religiosity, and resistance.

In Candomblé, an Afro-Brazilian religion, turbantes are worn by both men and women as a form of protection and to mark devotion to the orixás and ancestors. Beyond religious contexts, turbantes were used to cover short or shaved hair, a common practice among enslaved women.

The significance of the turbante evolved over time. While their use as a public fashion accessory declined for a period, becoming primarily associated with Baianas De Acarajé—women who sell traditional Afro-Brazilian street food and wear attire reminiscent of Candomblé ceremonies—the turbante has seen a resurgence as a political and aesthetic statement. Thaís Muniz, a native of Salvador, emphasizes that young Black women in Brazil are wearing turbantes not just for religious or aesthetic reasons, but as an act of resistance, a new symbol of their roots. (Muniz, 2018) The “Revolta dos Turbantes” (Revolt of the Turbans) in Rio de Janeiro, a protest where almost all participants adorned their heads with turbans, vividly demonstrated this symbolic and aesthetic encounter, expressing demands for Black rights and visibility.

Relay

The journey of textured hair in Brazil, from its foundational biological truths to its ritualistic expressions, now propels us into a more profound, multi-dimensional understanding. Here, we confront the intricate interplay of historical forces, societal pressures, and collective resilience that has shaped perception over time. It’s a space where the strands of individual experience intertwine with broader cultural narratives, where science and ancestral wisdom meet, revealing the enduring legacy of textured hair as a powerful vehicle for identity and agency. This is where the subtleties of a nation’s racial dynamics truly come to light through the lens of hair.

Branqueamento and Its Lingering Effects?

The ideology of Branqueamento, or “whitening,” cast a long, oppressive shadow over the perception of textured hair in Brazil for over a century. This governmental policy, implemented after the abolition of slavery in 1888, actively sought to increase the white population through European immigration and the promotion of interracial marriages. The underlying belief was that whiteness signified social status and economic privilege, leading to a pervasive societal pressure for individuals of African and Indigenous descent to conform to European aesthetic ideals, including straight hair.

This resulted in what scholars describe as “the everyday wounds of color,” where Afro-Brazilian women faced relentless torment from anti-Black aesthetic standards. (Caldwell, 2003)

The impact of branqueamento extended beyond individual appearance; it permeated social structures, contributing to economic disparities and limited opportunities for Afro-Brazilians. Black women, for example, historically earned significantly less than white men and were largely relegated to manual labor, often as housekeepers. The requirement for “having a good appearance” in job descriptions, which implicitly meant “being white,” further exacerbated this exclusion.

This historical context is vital to understanding why the shift in textured hair perception is not merely a fashion trend but a deeply political act of decolonization and self-reclamation. The historical pressure to straighten hair was a direct consequence of this ideology, a means of seeking social acceptance and avoiding discrimination.

The Rise of Natural Hair as Political Act?

The contemporary shift in the perception of textured hair in Brazil is intrinsically linked to the rise of the Movimento Negro Unificado (Unified Black Movement) and other Black activism groups. These movements, gaining prominence in the 1970s and 1980s, challenged the prevailing racial democracy myth and asserted Black pride. For these activists, natural hair, particularly the Afro hairstyle, became a visible symbol of empowerment, self-acceptance, and cultural affirmation. It was a direct counter-narrative to the long-standing societal message that “straight is beautiful.”

The “transição capilar” movement, which gained significant traction in the 2010s, built upon this legacy. It is characterized by the conscious decision to stop using chemical treatments and allow natural hair to grow out, embracing its original texture. This process, while personal, has profound social and political dimensions.

It is a collective act of challenging ingrained beauty standards and actively combating everyday racism. Social media platforms have played a crucial role in amplifying this movement, creating communities where individuals share experiences, tips, and support, fostering a sense of solidarity and collective courage.

One striking example of this shift is the “Revolta dos Turbantes” (Revolt of the Turbans) in Rio de Janeiro. This protest, where participants wore turbans, symbolized an aesthetic and political assertion of African ancestry and a demand for Black rights. The turban, once a practical garment or religious symbol, was re-contextualized as a powerful statement of identity and resistance against white supremacy.

The Interplay of Race, Gender, and Hair in Brazilian Society

The racial implications of hair texture are particularly significant for Black women in Brazil, given the central role hair plays in constructions of femininity and female beauty. Research by Kia Lilly Caldwell highlights how Afro-Brazilian women’s experiences with racism and sexism are often manifested through anti-Black aesthetic values related to their hair. (Caldwell, 2003), Despite Brazil’s image as a “racial democracy,” derogatory images of Black women in popular culture persist, underscoring the prevalence of anti-Black aesthetic standards.

The choice to wear natural hair, therefore, is not merely an aesthetic preference; it is a profound act of self-reconstruction and a contestation of dominant aesthetic norms. It represents a decolonization of the mind, a journey of making peace with one’s natural hair and expressing pride in African roots. This shift is also influencing the broader hair care market. The market for natural and organic hair care products is experiencing robust expansion, reflecting consumers’ heightened environmental and health consciousness, and a growing demand for specialized products catering to diverse hair types.

The evolving perception of textured hair in Brazil is a complex, dynamic process, reflecting ongoing struggles against racial inequality and discrimination. It highlights a growing recognition of Black identity and culture, moving away from a past where racial ambiguity was sought to a present where distinct Blackness is asserted with pride. (Sansone, 2003)

The economic impact of this cultural shift is substantial. The Brazil hair care market is projected to reach USD 4.3 billion by 2030, with a compound annual growth rate of 5.5% from 2023 to 2030. The organic product segment is particularly lucrative, registering the fastest growth.

This economic data underscores the tangible effects of the natural hair movement, as consumer preferences drive innovation and investment in products that cater to textured hair. This economic shift, in turn, reinforces the cultural movement, creating a virtuous cycle of affirmation and growth for textured hair communities.

Reflection

The journey of textured hair in Brazil, from the silent resistance of enslaved ancestors to the vibrant declarations of today’s natural hair movement, is a living testament to the Soul of a Strand. Each curl, coil, and wave carries within it the echoes of history, the wisdom of ancestral practices, and the unwavering spirit of a people reclaiming their authentic selves. This transformation in perception is not a fleeting trend but a profound re-alignment with heritage, a re-telling of a narrative that was once suppressed but now speaks with undeniable clarity and strength.

It reminds us that hair, in its deepest sense, is a powerful archive, holding stories of resilience, cultural continuity, and the boundless beauty of identity. The path forward, then, is one of continued celebration, of honoring the deep roots that nourish each strand, and of nurturing a future where every textured crown is seen for the magnificent legacy it truly is.

References

• Caldwell, K. L. (2003). “Look at Her Hair” ❉ The Body Politics of Black Womanhood in Brazil. Transforming Anthropology, 11(2), 20-36.
• Domingues, P. J. (2002). Negros de Almas Brancas? A ideologia do Branqueamento no Interior da Comunidade Negra em São Paulo, 1915–1930. Estudos Afro-Asiáticos, 24(3), 563–600.
• Muniz, T. (2018). The Re-Emergence of the Turbante ❉ A Brazilian Fashion Statement With a Deeply Political History. The Root .
• Sansone, L. (2003). Blackness Without Ethnicity ❉ Constructing Race in Brazil. Palgrave Macmillan.
• Vieira, K. (2020). Roots of the Diaspora ❉ Documentary ‘Enraizadas’ | Story of Nagô Braids. Black Brazil Today .