How has textured hair bias shifted over time?

Roots

There exists a quiet knowing, a deep hum that resonates through the very strands of our being when we consider hair—especially hair that coils, springs, and reaches skyward with its own singular grace. For those whose ancestry traces through the vast, sun-drenched landscapes of Africa and the winding paths of diaspora, hair is never a mere adornment. It holds a sacred memory, a living archive of generations, a story etched in every curve and twist. We stand now at a precipice, looking back through the mists of time to discern how the perception of textured hair has shifted, evolving from reverence to disregard, and, in our present moment, reclaiming its rightful place as a profound aspect of heritage.

To truly understand the journey of textured hair bias, we must first return to the source—the elemental biology that gives rise to its unique forms and the ancient wisdom that recognized its intrinsic value. Bias, after all, is a departure from understanding, a shadow cast upon inherent worth. For centuries, the bias against textured hair was not born of ignorance of its physical nature, but rather a deliberate denial of its cultural and spiritual significance, a subjugation of an entire people’s legacy.

Hair Anatomy and the Ancestral Strand

The very architecture of textured hair distinguishes it from straighter counterparts. Unlike the more circular cross-section of straight hair follicles, those that birth coily or kinky strands are typically elliptical or ribbon-like in shape, creating a pronounced curl pattern. This helical structure influences everything from how light reflects off the strand to its inherent strength and fragility. The cortex, that significant inner layer of the hair fiber, contains keratin protein, and in textured hair, this protein packing is less uniform, contributing to its spring and susceptibility to breakage without proper care.

Ancestral communities, long before modern scientific inquiry, possessed an intuitive understanding of these inherent qualities. Their practices were not born of laboratory analysis, but from generations of observation, touch, and an intimate relationship with the natural world around them.

The intrinsic form of textured hair, shaped by elliptical follicles, holds the echoes of ancient wisdom and biological uniqueness.

Consider the very act of growth. Hair sprouts from the dermal papilla, a structure nourished by blood vessels within the hair follicle. It moves through distinct phases ❉ the active growing stage, known as the Anagen Phase, which can last for years; the transitional Catagen Phase; and the resting Telogen Phase, before the old strand sheds to make way for new growth.

For communities that relied on the earth’s bounty for sustenance and healing, this cyclical nature of hair growth was likely observed and respected, mirroring the rhythms of planting and harvest. The health of the hair, therefore, was intertwined with the health of the individual and the abundance of the land.

Early Classifications and Reverence for Identity

Before the imposition of external standards, African societies held diverse and intricate systems for categorizing hair, not by degrees of perceived straightness, but by a richness of form and meaning. Hair served as a profound communicator, a visible marker of one’s identity, social standing, tribal affiliation, marital status, age, wealth, and even spiritual beliefs. Hairstyles conveyed messages, acted as symbols, and were often intertwined with ceremonies and rites of passage. In the Yoruba culture, hair braiding was a way to communicate with deities, with the head considered a sacred portal for spirits.

The Himba tribe of Namibia, for instance, used dreadlocked styles, coated with red ochre paste, to symbolize their connection to the earth and their ancestors. These were not arbitrary distinctions, but living expressions of community and belonging.

• Yoruba Plaits ❉ Communicated spiritual messages and honored the head as a sacred entry point for spirits.
• Himba Dreadlocks ❉ Signified ancestral ties and connection to the land, often adorned with ochre and butter.
• Wolof Braided Beard ❉ Could indicate a man preparing for war.

The bias that emerged later, a stark contrast to this ancient reverence, found its genesis in a deeply dehumanizing agenda. The transatlantic slave trade marked a cataclysmic rupture, as enslaved Africans were forcibly shaved upon arrival in the New World. This act served as a deliberate erasure of their culture, a brutal severance from identity and ancestral connection.

The meticulously crafted styles that once spoke volumes were violently stripped away, replaced by forced uniformity or crude, protective wraps born of desperation. This was the nascent stage of an imposed bias, where the natural form of textured hair became associated with servitude, primitivism, and a deliberate othering, setting a damaging precedent for generations.

Ritual

The journey of textured hair through the crucible of bias has been one of enduring resilience, where ancestral wisdom, though often suppressed, continued to whisper through acts of care and collective identity. The legacy of slavery, and the subsequent systemic efforts to devalue Blackness, profoundly reshaped the landscape of hair practices. Yet, even in the face of profound adversity, the spirit of heritage persisted, transforming daily routines into acts of quiet rebellion and cultural affirmation.

Forced Conformity and the Good Hair Ideal

The post-slavery era, while promising freedom, ushered in a new form of oppression for textured hair ❉ the insidious ideal of “good hair.” This term, a cruel echo of Eurocentric beauty standards, assigned value to hair that was straight, smooth, and easily manageable, effectively rendering natural Afro-textured hair as “bad” or “unprofessional.” This imposed aesthetic created immense pressure within Black communities to conform, to alter the God-given texture of their hair to approximate whiteness. Tools and chemical concoctions arose to meet this demand, often with devastating consequences. The metal hot comb, introduced in the 1880s, and later, chemical relaxers, promised straightness, but frequently delivered scalp burns, hair breakage, and even irreversible damage.

These practices, while seemingly a personal choice, were deeply intertwined with societal pressures for economic and social mobility. Many Black women felt compelled to straighten their hair to secure employment, avoid discrimination in schools, or simply gain a measure of societal acceptance.

The imposition of ‘good hair’ standards forced a painful negotiation between ancestral heritage and societal acceptance.

The systemic nature of this bias meant that even in seemingly neutral spaces, textured hair was scrutinized, judged, and often deemed unsuitable. Consider the profound impact of workplace and school policies, which, until recent legislative efforts, often explicitly or implicitly discriminated against natural hairstyles. These policies perpetuated the harmful notion that braids, locs, twists, and Afros were “unprofessional” or “unclean,” thereby limiting opportunities for Black individuals. This created a challenging reality where the expression of one’s inherent heritage through hair was often met with disciplinary action or career stagnation.

Ayana Byrd and Lori Tharps, in their significant work, “Hair Story ❉ Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America,” document this persistent struggle, highlighting how the politics of Black hair remained a constant battleground for identity and self-worth. (Byrd, Tharps, 2001)

Reclaiming Identity ❉ The Rise of the Afro and Braids

The 1960s and 1970s marked a profound turning point. Concurrent with the Civil Rights Movement and the “Black is Beautiful” movement, a powerful re-awakening occurred—the celebration of natural textured hair as a symbol of pride, resistance, and connection to African roots. The Afro, in its unapologetic fullness, became a potent political and cultural statement. Figures like Angela Davis and the Black Panther Party popularized the Afro, transforming it from a mere hairstyle into an emblem of empowerment and solidarity.

This period witnessed a collective rejection of Eurocentric beauty norms and a courageous embrace of authentic Black identity. For young people, embracing their natural hair was an act of defying societal expectations and expressing racial pride.

Alongside the Afro, traditional braiding techniques experienced a resurgence. Cornrows, with origins dating back 3500 BC in Africa, gained new significance. During slavery, these styles had sometimes been used as a practical way to keep hair neat during arduous labor, or even, remarkably, to encode messages for escape.

In the 1970s, braiding became a functional method for protecting delicate Afro-textured hair from harsh styling and daily maintenance, all while carrying a symbolic weight of freedom. Artists like Janet Jackson, Brandy, Alicia Keys, and Beyoncé later helped popularize various braided styles, bringing them further into mainstream consciousness.

The resilience of these heritage practices, evolving from hidden acts to public statements, speaks volumes about the enduring spirit of textured hair. They represent a continuum of cultural memory, passed down through generations, adapted, and re-claimed as powerful symbols of self-determination and belonging.

Relay

The current era represents a complex tapestry in the ongoing narrative of textured hair bias—a period characterized by both significant legislative strides and persistent, often insidious, forms of discrimination. The relay of heritage, passed from elder to youth, now finds itself on a broader, more public stage, demanding recognition and respect for inherent identity. This chapter explores the contemporary landscape, examining the legislative efforts, the psychological impact of bias, and the scientific validations that increasingly affirm the unique needs of textured hair, all through the lens of ancestral understanding.

Legislative Progress and Lingering Challenges

A tangible shift in addressing textured hair bias comes in the form of legislation like the CROWN Act. Standing for “Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair,” this legislation aims to prohibit discrimination based on race-based hairstyles, extending legal protection to textures and styles such as braids, locs, twists, and Afros in workplaces and public schools. First created in 2019 by Dove and the CROWN Coalition, the CROWN Act has seen adoption in numerous states across the United States. As of February 2023, twenty states had enacted the CROWN Act.

Despite these legislative victories, the struggle for equitable treatment is far from over. Discrimination based on hair texture, often termed Texturism, continues to manifest, particularly against those with coarser and more tightly coiled hair types, perceived as furthest from Eurocentric ideals. This bias is not always overt, but can surface through subtle policies or implicit attitudes that deem natural Afro-textured hair as “unprofessional” or “unsuitable.” A study sponsored by Dove reported that Black women are 3.4 times more likely to be labeled unprofessional due to their hair presentation and 1.5 times more likely to be sent home for “unprofessional hair.” This statistic underscores the continued, measurable social and economic impact of hair discrimination, highlighting how a deep-seated bias against heritage can still deter professional advancement.

What are the Psychological Impacts of Hair Discrimination?

The constant pressure to conform, to alter one’s natural hair to fit societal norms, carries a heavy psychological toll. Hair discrimination directly impacts self-confidence and identity, as it can constrain individual choice and compel individuals to suppress aspects of their racial identity. The devaluation and denigration of Black hair, whether by external societal forces or, at times, through internalized racism within Black communities, can be deeply damaging. It reinforces the idea that proximity to whiteness is the standard of beauty and professionalism, a standard often unattainable and always psychologically taxing.

Researchers Mbilishaka and colleagues found that Black women and men have experienced hair discrimination not only in public settings like schools and workplaces but also within their own families. This suggests a pervasive influence, where biases become embedded in the very fabric of social interaction, challenging one’s sense of belonging and self-acceptance.

The journey of self-acceptance through natural hair can become an act of profound self-care, a way to heal from years of societal invalidation. When individuals choose to return to their natural textures after years of chemical straightening, it often represents a radical reclaiming of self in the context of anti-Black discrimination. This speaks to a deeper connection to ancestral ways, recognizing that hair, in its natural state, is a part of one’s holistic wellbeing and a direct link to a rich cultural heritage. The shift in bias must extend beyond policy to a genuine appreciation of the inherent beauty and historical significance of all textured hair forms.

How does Science Support Textured Hair Heritage?

Modern scientific understanding increasingly aligns with what ancestral wisdom implicitly understood ❉ textured hair possesses unique structural characteristics that necessitate specific care. The elliptical shape of the follicle, for instance, leads to a hair shaft that twists and turns, creating points of weakness and making it naturally more susceptible to breakage and split ends compared to straight hair. The cuticle, the outermost protective layer, may have uneven thickness along the coils, affecting its ability to retain moisture and protect the inner cortex.

Understanding these biological realities is not about pathology, but about precision in care. The ancestral practices of moisturizing, protective styling, and gentle handling were, in essence, intuitive responses to the hair’s unique needs. For example, traditional oiling practices, often involving indigenous plant-based oils and butters, provided the necessary moisture and lubrication to fortify delicate strands and minimize friction, a critical need for hair with a less uniformly protective cuticle. Contemporary hair science now validates the importance of these elements ❉ proteins, lipids, and humectants are vital for maintaining the strength, elasticity, and hydration of textured hair.

The ongoing research into textured hair biology offers a powerful validation of heritage-based practices, providing a bridge between ancient wisdom and modern understanding. It underscores that bias against textured hair has not been rooted in its biological deficiencies, but in a culturally imposed disregard for its natural form and the rich history it carries. As this scientific knowledge becomes more accessible, it empowers individuals with textured hair to care for their strands in ways that honor their unique biology and deep ancestral lineage.

Reflection

The story of textured hair bias is a profound meditation on the enduring spirit of heritage. It is a testament to the remarkable human capacity for resilience, for holding fast to selfhood even when confronted with forces seeking to diminish or erase. From the vibrant symbolism of ancient African communities, where every braid and coil spoke a language of identity and belonging, to the brutal, dehumanizing acts of the transatlantic slave trade that sought to silence those voices, the journey has been one of constant re-assertion. We have traced the subtle shifts from overt subjugation to the insidious whispers of “good hair” ideals, seeing how societal pressures compelled many to alter their natural forms, often at great physical and psychological cost.

Yet, each era of suppression has birthed a resurgence—a powerful reclaiming of the Afro, the braid, the loc, not as mere styles, but as emblems of liberation, cultural pride, and a living connection to ancestral roots. This ongoing reclamation, bolstered by legislative efforts and validated by scientific inquiry, signifies more than a trend. It stands as a powerful reminder that the true beauty of a strand lies not in its conformity, but in its inherent, complex heritage, a legacy that continues to write itself into the very fabric of our collective future. The soul of a strand, indeed, continues its vibrant, unbound helix through time.