
Roots
There exists a profound memory within each curl, a quiet knowing passed down through generations. Our hair, particularly textured hair, holds echoes of journeys long past, stories whispered from ancestral lands, and resilience born of fire and grace. To truly understand how the gentle practice of threading safeguards textured hair, one must first listen to these echoes, acknowledging the hair not merely as biological fiber, but as a living archive, a crown, a testament to enduring spirit.
This ancient art of threading, a careful embrace of the strand, is not some new invention. It speaks of ancient hands, of shared wisdom, of a deep, abiding respect for the body’s own artistry, all woven into the very fabric of our heritage.

The Architecture of Ancestral Strands
Textured hair possesses a unique architectural blueprint, distinct from other hair types. Its elliptical cross-section, rather than round, along with the numerous twists and turns along the shaft, creates points of natural vulnerability. These bends and coils, while yielding a spectrum of breathtaking patterns, mean that natural sebum, the scalp’s own nourishing oil, finds a more challenging path traversing the entire length of the hair. This can result in drier ends, more prone to atmospheric stressors and mechanical friction.
The very structure that yields such beauty also calls for intentional care, a deep awareness that our ancestors possessed long before scientific diagrams graced textbooks. They understood the propensity for breakage at these points of natural curvature, observing it in the daily lived experience.
For centuries, the hair of African peoples was not merely a physical attribute; it was a complex system of communication and identity, reflecting a person’s social status, age, marital status, and even tribal affiliation. (Omotos, 2018, cited in The Gale Review, 2021). The careful styling and preservation of hair, therefore, became a communal act, a visible affirmation of belonging and an expression of a rich heritage. The practices that evolved were deeply rooted in this understanding of the hair’s delicate yet powerful nature.
Textured hair, with its inherent coiled architecture, calls for protective methodologies rooted in ancestral observation and timeless wisdom.

Whence Came the Art of Threading?
The history of hair protection is as ancient as the hair itself. From the intricate wigs worn by ancient Egyptians, which served purposes beyond mere aesthetics—providing hygiene, sun protection, and a display of social standing (Egyptra Travel Services, 2025; Curationist, 2022)—to the sophisticated braiding techniques of various African communities dating back to 3500 BC (Royaltee Magazine, 2021; The Purple Pulse, 2024), the impetus to preserve hair has been a constant. African hair threading, known by names such as Irun Kiko or Irun Owu among the Yoruba people of Nigeria, Isi òwu in Igbo, Akweley Waabii in Ga, and Nywele in Swahili, hails primarily from Sub-Saharan African countries, with a notable presence in Southern Nigeria.
This method, documented as far back as the 15th century, emerged from a practical necessity coupled with an artistic sensibility. The aim was simple ❉ to shield hair from manipulation and environmental elements, to stretch it without heat, and to retain its natural moisture, all while creating stunning visual forms. The science, as we understand it now, only serves to underscore the profound intuition of these ancestral practices. They had no microscopes to discern the cuticle layers, no pH strips to measure acidity, yet their hands, guided by generations of observation, performed acts that mirrored modern dermatological principles.
| Historical Method Hair Threading (e.g. West Africa) |
| Cultural Context Length retention, stretching without heat, reduced manipulation, cultural expression, community bonding. |
| Modern Scientific Parallels in Hair Health Minimizes mechanical stress, limits friction, supports cuticle alignment, preserves moisture, avoids thermal damage. |
| Historical Method Wigs and Head Covers (e.g. Ancient Egypt) |
| Cultural Context Hygiene, protection from sun/lice, social status, ritual purity. |
| Modern Scientific Parallels in Hair Health Reduces environmental exposure, physical barrier against elements, maintains scalp microclimate. |
| Historical Method Braiding and Locs (e.g. various African cultures) |
| Cultural Context Identification, social status, communication, resistance, communal practice. |
| Modern Scientific Parallels in Hair Health Minimizes tangling, reduces daily manipulation, protects ends, promotes length retention. |
| Historical Method These practices, steeped in heritage, reflect an intuitive understanding of hair's needs for stability and shielding, long before scientific validation. |

Ritual
Hair care in textured hair heritage is a ritual, a sacred act of preservation and identity. Threading, then, is a whispered song within this ritual, a movement of hands that extends beyond mere styling. It is an act of deep reverence, a conversation between past and present, a physical manifestation of safeguarding one’s ancestral crown.

What Does Threading Offer Textured Hair?
Threading provides a unique protective cocoon for textured hair. Unlike heat-based stretching methods that can compromise the hair’s structural integrity, threading employs a gentle tension. This technique involves wrapping sections of hair tightly with cotton or synthetic thread, from root to tip. This wrapping immediately offers several layers of defense:
- Reduced Manipulation ❉ Daily styling, combing, and detangling contribute significantly to mechanical damage and breakage in textured hair. Threading minimizes this interaction, allowing the hair a period of rest and recuperation.
- Physical Barrier ❉ The thread acts as an external shield, protecting the delicate hair shaft from environmental aggressors such as wind, low humidity, and constant friction against clothing or surfaces.
- Moisture Retention ❉ By encasing the hair, threading helps to seal in moisture and reduce its escape into the atmosphere. Textured hair, with its unique coiling, often struggles with moisture retention, making this benefit particularly meaningful.
- Length Retention Without Heat ❉ One of the most compelling aspects of threading is its ability to stretch textured hair without the application of heat. This avoids thermal damage, a common culprit in breakage and compromised hair health. The slight tension encourages elongation, which, when coupled with reduced breakage, promotes visible length preservation.
This protective function is not a modern discovery; it is a continuity of ancient wisdom. Historically, these techniques were not just about aesthetics; they were about survival and well-being. Enslaved Africans, stripped of many cultural markers, adapted their hair practices.
They used their hair as a covert tool of resistance, braiding intricate patterns that could act as maps for escape, or even concealing rice and seeds within their styles, a secret lifeline (Royaltee Magazine, 2021; Creative Support, 2023). This profound historical example underscores the deep, practical, and often defiant, protective capacity inherent in these ancestral hair care traditions.
Threading encases hair in a protective embrace, shielding it from external stressors and preserving its intrinsic moisture without thermal intervention.

How Did Ancestral Techniques Inform Our Hair’s Resilience?
The ingenuity of ancestral hair care practices is undeniable. Consider the tools ❉ ancient combs, often carved from wood or bone, featured wide teeth and rounded tips, specifically designed to navigate and detangle coiled textures (Johnson and Bankhead, 2014). This intuitive understanding of hair’s fragility is mirrored in threading, which offers a gentle alternative to harsher detangling or styling methods.
The traditional act of communal hair styling sessions, still practiced today, served as a social bonding experience, a moment for sharing stories, wisdom, and techniques (Creative Support, 2023; Johnson and Bankhead, 2014). This communal aspect itself is a form of protection, fostering a collective knowledge base for care.
The practice of threading can be seen as an extension of this mindful interaction. It’s a painstaking process, often taking hours, which inherently discourages rough handling. Each section of hair is carefully isolated, wrapped with intention, and secured.
This deliberate, unhurried approach minimizes the very friction and tension that often leads to breakage when textured hair is handled carelessly. The result is hair that is not only visually styled but also preserved from the rigors of daily interaction and environmental exposure.
- Irun Kiko or Irun Owu ❉ Yoruba names for threading, reflecting its prevalence in Nigerian heritage.
- Isi òwu ❉ The Igbo term for threading, another testament to its widespread use across West Africa.
- Akweley Waabii ❉ The Ga language name for threading, highlighting its place within Ghanaian cultural practices.
- Nywele ❉ A Swahili term for hair, sometimes used to refer to threaded styles in East Africa.

Relay
The wisdom of ancestral hair care, particularly the practice of threading, is not a static relic of the past; it is a living relay, a dynamic transmission of knowledge across generations that continues to shape our understanding of holistic hair health. It is a dialogue between what was known through keen observation and what is now understood through scientific inquiry, all grounded in the deep well of textured hair heritage.

How Does Threading Inform Holistic Hair Care?
A holistic approach to hair care extends beyond the mere appearance of strands; it views the hair as an integral part of overall well-being, connected to physical health, mental calm, and cultural identity. Threading aligns beautifully with this perspective. By minimizing daily manipulation, it creates a serene environment for the hair and scalp, allowing them respite from constant styling. A healthy scalp is the true foundation for strong, vibrant hair, and practices that reduce stress on both the scalp and hair directly contribute to this vitality.
The tradition of protective styling, which includes threading, is deeply linked to preserving length and encouraging healthy hair growth. When hair is tucked away and shielded, the ends, which are the oldest and most fragile parts of the hair, are less prone to damage and split ends. This deliberate safeguarding allows for the natural growth cycle to proceed with less interruption, contributing to overall hair health.
Furthermore, the very act of preparing the hair for threading—often involving cleansing and application of natural oils or butters—reinforces ancient rituals of nourishment. Traditional ingredients, such as Shea Butter, Coconut Oil, or Castor Oil, often accompanied these processes, their properties intuitively understood for moisturizing and protecting the hair.

Can Modern Hair Care Deepen Its Ties to Ancestral Practices?
The tension between traditional practices and imposed Eurocentric beauty standards has been a profound challenge for textured hair communities. The transatlantic slave trade actively suppressed African hair styling, often forcibly shaving heads to erase cultural identity. This historical trauma created a lasting impact, fostering a societal pressure to straighten hair, which in turn led to the adoption of potentially harmful chemical treatments and styling practices. (Institute for Natural Medicine, 2023; Leidenanthropologyblog, 2017).
Even in the early 20th century, pioneers like Madam C.J. Walker, while building a formidable beauty empire that empowered Black women economically, also operated within a context where straightened hair was increasingly seen as a pathway to social acceptance. (A’Lelia Bundles, 2021). Her innovations, while revolutionary for their time in addressing scalp conditions common due to infrequent washing, reflected a complex interplay of hair health needs and prevailing beauty ideals.
However, the resurgence of the natural hair movement in the 1960s and early 2000s marked a powerful reclamation of ancestral aesthetics and practices, emphasizing the beauty and strength of coiled and kinky textures. Threading, in this context, offers a pathway to honor heritage while serving contemporary hair care needs. It bridges the gap between historical wisdom and modern understanding, allowing for cultural continuity in hair care choices.
Here are some ways threading addresses common textured hair challenges, drawing from heritage wisdom:
- Shrinkage Management ❉ Textured hair is known for its shrinkage, a natural phenomenon where wet hair appears significantly shorter than its true length. Threading gently stretches the hair, offering a heat-free method to temporarily elongate curls and coils without compromising their natural pattern, which can be appealing for styling versatility.
- Breakage Prevention ❉ The primary concern for many with textured hair is breakage. The core protection offered by threading—minimal manipulation and environmental shielding—directly combats this issue, allowing for significant length retention over time.
- Scalp Health Maintenance ❉ While the focus is on the strands, the stability provided by threading can also allow the scalp to rest from constant tension and styling, supporting a balanced scalp environment.
The practice of threading, rooted in ancestral wisdom, offers a pathway to mitigate modern hair challenges while honoring cultural lineage.

Reflection
To contemplate threading, therefore, is to gaze into a mirror reflecting millennia of textured hair heritage. It is to recognize that protection extends beyond a mere physical act; it is a profound cultural statement, a whisper of defiance against imposed norms, a celebration of innate beauty. The ‘Soul of a Strand’ resides in this interconnectedness—the biological blueprint, the historical journey, the communal rituals, and the enduring legacy.
Threading reminds us that true hair care is a homecoming, a return to practices that acknowledge the hair’s inherent resilience and the wisdom embedded in its very coils. It is a timeless art, a testament to the enduring spirit of our ancestors, a gentle guardianship passed from one generation to the next, ensuring that the legacy of our hair remains unbound and ever-present.

References
- A’Lelia Bundles. (2021). NAAM — Descendants Series ❉ A’Lelia Bundles, Great Granddaughter of Madam C.J. Walker. Retrieved from NAAM website.
- Creative Support. (2023). The History of Black Hair. Retrieved from Creative Support website.
- Curationist. (2022). Hair and Makeup in Ancient Egypt. Retrieved from Curationist website.
- Doria Adoukè. (2022). African Hair Threading History and Tutorial. Retrieved from Doria Adoukè website.
- Egyptra Travel Services. (2025). From Ancient Egypt to Modern Beauty ❉ Timeless Cosmetic Secrets. Retrieved from Egyptra Travel Services website.
- Institute for Natural Medicine. (2023). When Colonial Beauty Standards Are Toxic. Retrieved from Institute for Natural Medicine website.
- Johnson, T. & Bankhead, T. (2014). Hair It Is ❉ Examining the Experiences of Black Women with Natural Hair. Open Journal of Social Sciences, 2, 86-100.
- Leidenanthropologyblog. (2017). ‘Hairstyle Politics’ ❉ Decolonizing Beauty Standards. Retrieved from Leidenanthropologyblog website.
- Royaltee Magazine. (2021). Braids, Plaits, Locs ❉ The History of Black Protective Hairstyles. Retrieved from Royaltee Magazine website.
- The Gale Review. (2021). African Hairstyles – The “Dreaded” Colonial Legacy. Retrieved from The Gale Review website.
- The Purple Pulse. (2024). Protective hairstyles hold cultural significance. Retrieved from The Purple Pulse website.
- Vaughan’s Holistic Hair Clinic & Wellness Spa. (2024). Black Hair Growth ❉ A Comprehensive Guide. Retrieved from Vaughan’s Holistic Hair Clinic & Wellness Spa website.
- Wikipedia. (2022). African hair threading. Retrieved from Wikipedia.