How does the CROWN Act relate to the historical pressures on textured hair?

Roots

The strands that crown our heads, particularly those with the intricate coils and unique textures of Black and mixed-race heritage, carry not only biological markers but also profound echoes of history. For generations, hair has been a living testament to identity, status, spirituality, and even resistance within African diasporic communities. To understand the CROWN Act, a piece of legislation designed to protect against hair discrimination, we must first journey into the deep well of this heritage, recognizing that the pressures faced by textured hair today are not isolated incidents but rather continuations of historical subjugation and cultural erasure. This act does not simply address a modern grievance; it speaks to centuries of ancestral struggle and the enduring spirit of self-expression.

What Does Textured Hair Reveal About Our Ancestral Past?

The very structure of textured hair, with its elliptical follicle shape and varied curl patterns, is a biological inheritance, a whisper from our ancestors. This biological reality, however, became entangled with oppressive narratives during the transatlantic slave trade. Enslaved Africans were often subjected to head shaving upon arrival, a dehumanizing act designed to strip them of their cultural identity and sever ties to their ancestral lands where hair held immense social and spiritual significance.

(Byrd & Tharps, 2001). This was not merely about hygiene; it was a calculated assault on the spirit, a deliberate attempt to erase the vibrant visual language communicated through braids, adornments, and styles that once conveyed tribal affiliation, marital status, age, and social standing.

Post-emancipation, the pressure to conform to Eurocentric beauty standards intensified, creating a complex internal and external landscape for Black individuals. The concept of “good hair” versus “bad hair” emerged, with straight hair often seen as a prerequisite for social and economic mobility. This era saw the rise of hair-straightening combs and chemical relaxers, products designed to alter the natural texture to approximate a European ideal. Madam C.J.

Walker, a pioneer in Black haircare, built her empire by selling products that aided in hair straightening, reflecting the prevailing societal pressures of her time. While her entrepreneurial spirit is celebrated, her work also underscores a period where altering one’s natural hair was often viewed as essential for advancement.

The CROWN Act stands as a modern acknowledgment of an ancient struggle, recognizing that the policing of Black hair is a continuation of historical efforts to suppress cultural identity.

How Does Hair Anatomy Reflect Ancestral Ingenuity?

The unique properties of textured hair, such as its susceptibility to dryness due to the shape of the follicle and cuticle, necessitated specific care practices in ancestral African communities. These practices were not merely cosmetic; they were deeply rooted in a holistic understanding of wellness and community. For instance, the Basara Arab women of Chad have for generations utilized Chebe Powder, a blend of natural herbs and seeds, to coat and protect their hair, preventing breakage and retaining length.

This traditional method, passed down through rituals, speaks to an inherited wisdom about hair health that predates modern scientific understanding. Similarly, the use of various natural oils and butters, like shea butter, marula oil, and African black soap, across the continent highlights an ancient understanding of moisture retention and hair nourishment.

The classification systems for textured hair, while often presented through a modern scientific lens, can sometimes inadvertently echo historical biases if not carefully contextualized. Historically, the diversity of Black hair was simplified and denigrated. The CROWN Act, by protecting a range of natural hair textures and protective styles, implicitly challenges these historical biases, asserting that all hair, in its natural state or traditional styling, is professional and acceptable.

Ritual

As we move from the fundamental understanding of textured hair’s heritage, we arrive at the realm of ritual—the practices, techniques, and communal gatherings that have shaped and preserved Black hair traditions through time. Consider the deep satisfaction that comes from a meticulously crafted braid, a coil perfectly defined, or the gentle touch of a loved one tending to your crown. These are not merely acts of grooming; they are living extensions of ancestral wisdom, passed down through generations, each movement a testament to resilience and self-care. The CROWN Act steps into this space, acknowledging that these rituals, often deemed “unprofessional” in dominant societal settings, are indeed deeply rooted cultural expressions deserving of protection.

How Have Ancestral Styling Practices Shaped Modern Hair Care?

The history of textured hair styling is a vibrant chronicle of adaptation, creativity, and resistance. In pre-colonial Africa, hairstyles were intricate forms of communication, signaling a person’s social standing, age, and even tribal allegiance. The act of braiding, for instance, was a communal event, a time for sharing stories, wisdom, and strengthening familial bonds. During enslavement, these practices transformed, yet persisted.

Cornrows, in particular, were used as a covert means of communication, sometimes even mapping escape routes to freedom. This powerful historical example of Cornrows as a tool for liberation highlights the profound, often hidden, significance embedded within Black hair practices.

The “Black is Beautiful” movement of the 1960s and 70s marked a significant cultural shift, reclaiming the afro as a symbol of pride, power, and resistance against Eurocentric beauty standards. This era saw a renewed appreciation for natural textures, though the societal pressures to conform remained. The CROWN Act, in its explicit protection of styles like afros, braids, locs, and twists, directly addresses the lingering discrimination that sought to suppress these powerful symbols of identity.

• Braids ❉ An ancient practice with roots in 3500 BCE, braids historically communicated tribal identity, wealth, marital status, and religion. During enslavement, they served as maps for escape.
• Locs ❉ Recognized by the Akan people of Ghana as a symbol of higher power for priests, locs in the United States became popularized in the 1970s, symbolizing a connection to Africa and a rejection of mainstream norms.
• Bantu Knots ❉ Tracing back to the 2nd millennium BCE with the Bantu-speaking community, these coiled styles are both protective and culturally significant.

What Role Do Traditional Tools and Techniques Play in Hair Heritage?

The tools and techniques associated with textured hair care are as rich and varied as the styles themselves. From the ancient afro pick, used for accessorizing in Northern Africa and later popularized during the 1970s Black Power movement, to the communal braiding sessions that fostered connection, these elements are integral to the heritage of textured hair. The evolution of these tools and techniques also reflects the pressures faced by Black communities.

The invention of the hair-straightening comb at the end of the 19th century, popularized by Madam C.J. Walker, offered a means to achieve the then-preferred straight hair texture.

Today, the natural hair movement has led to a resurgence of interest in traditional and protective styles, celebrating the versatility and inherent beauty of textured hair. However, this re-embrace has often been met with continued discrimination in professional and educational settings. The CROWN Act’s significance lies in its direct challenge to this discrimination, providing legal recourse for individuals who choose to honor their heritage through their hair. It recognizes that wearing Protective Styles is not merely a stylistic choice but a cultural practice deeply intertwined with identity and health.

The CROWN Act recognizes that styling textured hair is not just about aesthetics, but a living connection to ancestral practices and community building.

The holistic care of textured hair, deeply rooted in ancestral wisdom, also informs the modern approach to styling. Traditional ingredients like Chebe Powder, shea butter, and various plant oils, used for centuries to nourish and protect hair, are now being rediscovered and integrated into contemporary regimens. This continuum of care, from ancient practices to modern formulations, underscores the enduring legacy of Black hair wellness. The CROWN Act supports this by ensuring that individuals are not penalized for maintaining hair health through culturally relevant methods and styles.

Relay

As we delve deeper into the complex interplay of textured hair, historical pressures, and the CROWN Act, a crucial question arises ❉ how does this legislation truly bridge the chasm between ancestral reverence and contemporary societal norms, particularly when those norms have historically sought to suppress Black identity? This section invites a profound exploration of the CROWN Act’s role in shaping cultural narratives and securing futures, acknowledging the intricate dance between legal frameworks, psychological well-being, and the enduring power of heritage. We step into a space where scholarly insights, lived experiences, and legislative action converge to illuminate the path forward for textured hair.

What is the Psychological Impact of Historical Hair Discrimination on Black Communities?

The historical pressures on textured hair extend far beyond mere aesthetics; they have left a profound psychological imprint on Black and mixed-race individuals. For centuries, the consistent denigration of natural Black hair as “unprofessional,” “messy,” or “unruly” has contributed to internalized racism and negative self-image within Black communities. This systemic devaluation, often perpetuated through school policies and workplace dress codes, has compelled many to alter their natural hair, sometimes through damaging chemical processes, to conform to Eurocentric standards. A 2017 study found that Black women feel more anxiety about their hair and are twice as likely as white women to feel pressure to straighten it in the workplace.

This pressure is not a relic of the past; a 2023 study revealed that Black women’s hair is 2.5 times more likely to be perceived as unprofessional, and 66% of Black women change their hair for job interviews, with 41% straightening it. This persistent scrutiny can lead to chronic stress, cultural disconnection, and even depression, especially when individuals are the sole Black presence in a given space.

The CROWN Act directly confronts this psychological burden by providing legal protection against hair discrimination. By explicitly prohibiting discrimination based on hair texture and protective styles, the Act aims to dismantle the systemic biases that have historically undermined the self-esteem and identity of Black individuals. This legislative measure signals a societal shift towards recognizing and validating the inherent beauty and cultural significance of textured hair, allowing individuals to express their heritage without fear of professional or educational repercussions.

The CROWN Act represents a vital step in addressing the historical policing of Black bodies through their hair, asserting that racial discrimination includes characteristics often associated with race. This legal framework challenges the notion that natural Black hair is somehow inherently “unprofessional,” a perception deeply rooted in a legacy of anti-Blackness.

How Does the CROWN Act Uphold Ancestral Practices and Future Generations?

The CROWN Act’s relationship to textured hair heritage is symbiotic. It not only offers legal recourse for past and present injustices but also actively supports the preservation and celebration of ancestral practices for future generations. By creating a respectful and open environment for natural hair, the Act encourages a deeper connection to cultural identity. When individuals are no longer forced to choose between their authentic selves and economic advancement, the rich traditions of Black hair care and styling can flourish.

For instance, the practice of Braiding, which holds immense historical and cultural weight as a form of communication and identity, is now legally protected in many jurisdictions where the CROWN Act has passed. This means that the communal act of braiding, once a sanctuary of shared experience and storytelling, can continue to be passed down without the looming threat of external judgment or penalty. The Act thus safeguards not just individual rights but the very fabric of a living heritage.

The CROWN Act’s scope extends beyond the workplace and into educational settings, which is crucial for interrupting the cycle of hair discrimination at an early age. Young Black children have historically been disciplined in schools for wearing natural and culturally significant hairstyles, teaching them early on that their natural identity is “inappropriate”. By protecting students from such discriminatory policies, the CROWN Act helps cultivate an environment where children can embrace their natural hair and cultural heritage with pride, free from the psychological harm inflicted by systemic bias. This fosters a healthier relationship with their identity and allows ancestral knowledge to be transmitted without fear.

Reflection

The journey through the historical pressures on textured hair and the emergence of the CROWN Act reveals a profound truth ❉ our hair is a living archive, a testament to resilience, and a vibrant expression of identity. From the whispers of ancient braiding traditions that spoke volumes about status and belonging, to the strategic use of cornrows as maps to freedom, Black and mixed-race hair has always carried narratives far beyond mere adornment. The CROWN Act, in its legislative embrace of natural hair textures and protective styles, does more than simply outlaw discrimination; it honors this deep, enduring heritage.

It is a societal affirmation that the beauty, complexity, and cultural significance of textured hair are not only worthy of respect but are essential threads in the vibrant tapestry of human experience. This act, therefore, does not merely mark a legal milestone; it illuminates a path towards a future where every strand can stand unbound, echoing the soul of its ancestral past.

References

• Byrd, A. & Tharps, L. (2001). Hair Story ❉ Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. St. Martin’s Press.
• Dabiri, E. (2019). Twisted ❉ The Tangled History of Black Hair Culture. Harper Perennial.
• Johnson, D. (2019). Hairitage ❉ Women Writing Race in Children’s Literature. Children’s Literature Association Quarterly, 44(2), 175-190.
• Mbilishaka, A. O. & Apugo, M. (2020). Don’t get it twisted ❉ Untangling the psychology of hair discrimination within Black communities. American Journal of Orthopsychiatry, 90(5), 590–599.
• Patton, T. O. (2006). Hey Girl, Am I More Than My Hair? African American Women and Their Struggles with Eurocentric Hair Grooming Decisions. NWSA Journal, 18(3), 24-43.
• Rodriguez, S. (2023). Black Hair Can ❉ The Roots of Our Roots. Little, Brown Books for Young Readers.
• Rosado, S. (2003). African-American Women and Their Hair ❉ A Story of Self-Discovery. The Haworth Press.
• White, S. & White, D. (1995). Slave narratives. Oxford University Press.