How does the CROWN Act relate to the enduring heritage of textured hair?

Roots

Consider the intricate dance of human experience, a journey from the very helix of our being to the expressions we wear upon our heads. For many, hair is simply a crowning adornment, a canvas for passing trends. Yet, for descendants of the African diaspora, it is far more. It is a living archive, each strand a whisper of ancestral stories, a coiled testament to resilience, a vibrant proclamation of identity.

The CROWN Act, in its legislative form, enters this deeply personal and historically charged space, not as a mere legal statute, but as a recognition, a validation, and a safeguarding of a heritage long under siege. It stands as a powerful acknowledgement that the way hair grows from one’s head, in its natural, unadulterated form, is tied intrinsically to race, culture, and a legacy stretching back through millennia.

In pre-colonial African societies, hair communicated volumes, acting as a visual language of belonging and stature. Hairstyles indicated a person’s family background, tribal affiliation, marital status, age, religion, wealth, and community rank. For instance, among the Yoruba people of Nigeria, intricate hairstyles symbolized community roles, and the Himba tribe in Namibia crafted dreadlocked styles coated with red ochre paste to symbolize their connection to the earth and their ancestors. The Wolof men of Senegal and The Gambia wore braided styles when preparing for war.

Hair was also held as a conduit for spiritual interaction, a physical connection to the divine. This profound significance of hair extended beyond mere aesthetics; it was a map, a story, a sacred bond.

Hair, for countless generations within the African diaspora, has served as a profound repository of cultural identity and ancestral connection.

The brutal rupture of the transatlantic slave trade sought to sever these connections. Enslaved Africans often faced forced head shaving upon arrival in the Americas, a deliberate, dehumanizing act meant to strip them of identity and communal ties. This was a calculated assault on their spirit, erasing a vital link to their homeland and traditions. Yet, even in chains, the spirit of hair persisted.

Cornrows, for instance, became a method of encoding messages, serving as maps to plan escape routes from plantations. This silent but potent expression of identity continued, a testament to the enduring power of heritage.

What does Textured Hair Reveal about Its Inherent Structure?

Textured hair, commonly associated with people of African descent, encompasses a spectrum of curls, coils, and kinks. From a scientific vantage, these varying textures are defined by the unique elliptical shape of the hair follicle and the way keratin proteins align within the hair shaft. This structural particularity results in hair strands that are often finer, possess more cuticle layers, and have a higher propensity for dryness and fragility compared to straight hair.

The helical journey of each strand, twisting and turning, creates incredible volume and resilience, yet also presents specific needs for care and protection. Historically, the understanding of these intrinsic qualities was deeply embedded in ancestral care practices, informed by generations of observation and wisdom concerning what nourishes and preserves such hair.

Understanding the anatomy of textured hair extends to recognizing its growth cycles and the factors that influence its health. The cycles of growth, rest, and shedding are universal, yet environmental and nutritional influences, historically and presently, play a distinct part. Ancient African communities used indigenous plants and natural resources, like shea butter, coconut oil, and aloe vera, to maintain hair health and shine, acknowledging the protective and restorative qualities these elements offered to the hair’s unique structure. These practices were not random acts; they were informed by an intimate, generational understanding of the hair’s biological predispositions and environmental vulnerabilities.

• Shea Butter ❉ Extracted from the nuts of the “sacred tree of the savannah,” shea butter was a primary moisturizer and protector, shielding hair and skin from dry climates and adding sheen. Its use was widespread across many West African communities, passed down through matriarchal lines.
• Coconut Oil ❉ Valued for its penetrating properties, coconut oil was applied to nourish and strengthen hair, particularly in regions where coconuts were abundant. This oil helped in maintaining scalp health and promoting growth.
• Aloe Vera ❉ Known as the “Miracle plant,” aloe vera was used for its soothing and healing properties on the scalp, addressing irritations and promoting a healthy environment for hair growth.

The CROWN Act addresses hair texture and specific styles, including tightly coiled or curled hair, locs, cornrows, twists, braids, Bantu knots, and Afros, as those commonly linked to a particular race or national origin. This legislative language attempts to legally define the very physical manifestations of textured hair heritage, acknowledging that these natural forms have been, and remain, targets of discrimination. It aims to prevent policies from penalizing hair that simply grows in its natural, glorious form, aligning legal definitions with the biological realities and cultural expressions of textured hair.

Ritual

The journey of textured hair care, from ancient lands to contemporary expressions, has always been a ritual, a practice steeped in reverence and intention. This ritual transcends mere grooming; it is an act of self-care, a communal bond, and a defiant assertion of identity. The CROWN Act, in its reach, acknowledges that these very rituals, often dismissed or denigrated, are not casual choices but deeply rooted cultural expressions deserving of protection.

Traditional styling practices were elaborate and highly symbolic. Cornrows, as ancient as 3000 B.C. in parts of Africa, were not only practical but served as communication mediums among societies.

The meticulous crafting of braids, twists, and locs held profound social and spiritual meaning, signifying age, marital status, and even spiritual beliefs. The very act of hair grooming was often a communal activity, strengthening familial and societal bonds, a shared heritage passed from one generation to the next.

For centuries, hair care for textured strands has been a sacred, shared practice, connecting generations through touch, tradition, and knowledge.

However, with the onset of slavery and subsequent discriminatory periods, these rituals faced relentless assault. The pressure to conform to Eurocentric beauty standards led to the widespread adoption of chemical straighteners and hot combs, tools designed to alter the natural texture of Black hair. This shift was not a matter of personal preference alone; it was often driven by the stark reality that “straight” hair was seen as more “professional” or “acceptable” in societal spaces, a prerequisite for social and economic advancement. This forced assimilation, a deeply damaging practice, chipped away at the outward expressions of textured hair heritage.

How Have Traditional Styling Techniques Sustained Heritage in the Diaspora?

Despite generations of systemic pressure, traditional styling techniques persisted, becoming powerful acts of resistance and cultural preservation in the African diaspora. Styles like cornrows, braids, and locs, though sometimes targeted, became symbols of Black identity and pride. The Civil Rights Movement in the 1960s saw the Afro hairstyle emerge as a potent statement against Eurocentric beauty norms, symbolizing Black pride and unity, championed by figures like Angela Davis. This resurgence underscored the inherent resilience of these styles as cultural markers.

The CROWN Act directly addresses this historical burden by explicitly protecting these very hairstyles. It prohibits discrimination based on hair texture or styles commonly associated with a particular race or national origin, listing specific styles like braids, locs, twists, and Bantu knots. This legal recognition, though belated, provides a crucial shield for individuals choosing to wear their hair in culturally significant ways.

Consider the case of Chastity Jones in 2013, offered a customer service position, only to have the offer rescinded when she refused to cut her locs. Her employer stated that dreadlocks “tend to get messy” and that the company had a policy against them (EEOC, 2013). This incident, among many others, starkly illustrates the ingrained bias that the CROWN Act seeks to dismantle. The 11th Circuit Court of Appeals eventually ruled against Jones, stating that banning locs was not racial discrimination because locs are not an “immutable characteristic” of race.

This decision underscored the urgent need for legislation that specifically defines and protects these cultural expressions. The CROWN Act directly counters such rulings by legally defining race to include hair texture and protective styles, making it illegal to discriminate based on these characteristics.

The continuous journey to acceptance also shows up in the evolution of care rituals. Traditional African hair care practices involved natural ingredients such as shea butter, coconut oil, and aloe vera, emphasizing nature’s gifts for nourishment. These time-honored methods offer timeless lessons for contemporary routines, recognizing the importance of protective styling to reduce manipulation and shield hair from damage, allowing it to grow and remain healthy.

The modern natural hair movement, which gained traction in the early 2000s, echoes these ancestral principles, advocating for the embrace of natural textures and traditional styles. This movement, deeply rooted in heritage, has found a legislative ally in the CROWN Act.

The psychological impact of hair discrimination cannot be understated. Research indicates that Black women are 2.5 times more likely to have their hair perceived as “unprofessional” than white women. Over 20% of Black women between 25 and 34 have been sent home from jobs due to their hair.

Such discriminatory experiences contribute to internalized racism, anxiety, and a diminished sense of belonging, particularly in professional and academic spaces. The CROWN Act’s intervention seeks to mitigate these profound psychological burdens by ensuring that hair, a fundamental aspect of racial and cultural identity, is no longer a barrier to opportunity or a source of emotional distress.

Relay

The CROWN Act stands as a contemporary relay in a long, arduous race for recognition and equity, carrying the baton of ancestral legacy forward. It extends the dialogue from individual experience to systemic change, aiming to dismantle deeply ingrained biases that have plagued textured hair heritage for centuries. This legislation is a direct response to a historical trajectory where hair, in its natural glory, was often deemed “unprofessional,” “unruly,” or “inappropriate,” serving as a pretext for discrimination in education and employment.

The core of the CROWN Act is its expansion of the definition of “race” in civil rights laws to explicitly include hair texture and protective styles associated with particular racial or national origins. This seemingly simple definitional change holds immense power. Prior to the CROWN Act, existing anti-discrimination laws, like the Civil Rights Act of 1964, offered protections against race-based discrimination, but often omitted explicit mention of hair texture, creating a loophole for discrimination. Legal battles, such as the 2013 lawsuit by the U.S.

Equal Employment Opportunity Commission (EEOC) on behalf of Chastity Jones, who lost a job offer for refusing to cut her locs, demonstrated the limitations of existing legal frameworks. The court’s decision in that case highlighted the urgent need for legislation that specifically addresses hair discrimination as a form of racial bias.

The CROWN Act’s legislative reach aims to rectify historical oversights, ensuring that the expression of textured hair heritage receives legal protection in contemporary society.

The CROWN Act’s journey from its initial passage in California in 2019 to its adoption in many states and its pursuit at the federal level represents a widespread societal acknowledgment of this historical injustice. It is a collective effort to codify respect for Black and mixed-race hair as a legitimate, protected aspect of racial identity. The legislation specifically addresses environments like schools and workplaces, where discrimination has been most prevalent and impactful.

How does the CROWN Act Address the Legacy of Hair-Based Systemic Discrimination?

The CROWN Act confronts the enduring legacy of systemic discrimination by providing legal recourse against policies that disproportionately target individuals wearing natural or protective hairstyles. Prior to its implementation, Black students faced disciplinary actions, social ostracization, and psychological distress due to school grooming policies deeming traditional Black hairstyles as “unprofessional” or “unruly”. Similarly, Black adults experienced significant barriers in employment, with studies showing that Black women are 80% more likely to change their natural hair to meet workplace expectations than white women.

The very act of seeking to conform often leads to physical and psychological costs. Many Black women have felt pressure to chemically straighten their hair, a process that can cause damage, breakage, and scalp burns. The CROWN Act aims to dismantle the unspoken rule that straight hair equals professionalism, thereby reducing the immense pressure and health burdens associated with altering natural hair.

The legal and social implications of the CROWN Act extend to how cultural identity is perceived and valued. It sends a clear message that ancestral expressions through hair are not deviations from a norm, but authentic representations of self. This is particularly salient in a society where cultural understanding and acceptance are still evolving. The Act’s provisions, recognizing styles like locs, braids, and Afros, reinforce the idea that these hairstyles are inherent to racial identity and therefore deserving of the same protections afforded to other racial characteristics.

Beyond legislative enforcement, the CROWN Act also sparks a broader societal dialogue, encouraging educational institutions and workplaces to examine their implicit biases and create more inclusive environments. It promotes a cultural shift where the diversity of textured hair is not merely tolerated but celebrated. This legislative push is a powerful echo of movements like “Black is Beautiful,” which in the 1960s politicized natural hair as a form of self-acceptance and protest, challenging Eurocentric beauty standards. The CROWN Act provides a legal foundation for these enduring calls for authenticity and respect.

• School Environment ❉ Black children, some as young as five, have experienced racial discrimination based on hairstyles, with 66% of Black children in majority-white schools reporting such experiences. The CROWN Act aims to prevent students from being disciplined or denied educational opportunities due to their hair.
• Workplace Environment ❉ Black women are 1.5 times more likely to be sent home from work because of their hair and 3.5 times more likely to be perceived as “unprofessional”. The Act seeks to eliminate this discriminatory barrier to employment and advancement.
• Public Accommodations ❉ The law extends protections to public spaces, ensuring that individuals are not discriminated against in various settings outside of work and school.

The fight, of course, continues. Despite the CROWN Act’s passage in many states, cases of hair discrimination persist. The experience of Darryl George, a Texas high school student who faced repeated suspensions for his locs even after the state’s CROWN Act was enacted, underscores that legal protections must be coupled with ongoing education and enforcement. The CROWN Act serves as a vital step, but the relay race for complete understanding and unreserved acceptance of textured hair heritage remains in progress, each legal victory building upon the profound cultural significance of hair for generations to come.

Reflection

The CROWN Act, then, is not merely a piece of paper, a collection of legal clauses; it is a profound testament to the enduring spirit of textured hair, a mirror reflecting centuries of pride, struggle, and unwavering authenticity. It acknowledges the inherent beauty of each curl, every coil, every loc, not as a trend or a preference, but as a biological reality intertwined with a rich cultural lineage. In its very existence, it whispers stories of ancestors who braided messages of freedom into their strands, of generations who straightened their hair for survival, and of contemporary individuals who stand tall, reclaiming their natural crowns. This legislation invites us all to look deeper, beyond the surface of appearance, to recognize the profound heritage residing within each strand, affirming that the soul of a strand is indeed the soul of a people, unbound and resilient, forever continuing its luminous journey.