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Roots

There exists a profound lexicon inscribed upon the very strands that spring forth from our scalp, a language spoken across generations, echoing the rich soil from which we all arose. Consider for a moment the stories held within each coil, every wave, the vibrant declaration of self that hair always represents. For those whose ancestral journey winds through the landscapes of Africa and its diaspora, this connection carries an even deeper resonance. Hair, in its myriad forms, has long served as a living archive, a sacred conduit for history, identity, and the wisdom of bygone eras.

It is a vessel holding tales of resilience, of beauty cultivated against monumental odds, and of cultural practices that refused to be silenced, even through the cruellest winds of subjugation. The CROWN Act, in its legislative reach, steps into this long-held space, seeking to safeguard this profound personal and communal expression, ensuring that the stories written upon our heads are honored, not diminished.

How does this modern legal instrument, designed to secure equity in schools and workplaces, truly protect cultural hair practices? Its power lies in formally acknowledging the inherent link between hair texture, protective styles, and racial identity. For far too long, the very presentation of textured hair in its natural state, or adorned in styles with deep cultural roots, faced unwarranted scrutiny and outright bias in societal spheres. This legislation works to dismantle the notion that professional appearance aligns exclusively with Eurocentric hair ideals, which often meant chemically altering or concealing the natural beauty of textured hair.

It recognizes that styles like locs, braids, cornrows, twists, and Afros are not simply fashion choices; they are expressions steeped in centuries of heritage, each a testament to ancestral ingenuity and a vibrant cultural legacy. The journey to this legal recognition is long, a testament to the persistent struggles faced by Black and mixed-race communities.

This evocative portrait immortalizes resilience, revealing an elder's textured hair locs, a tapestry of ancestral strength, natural coils, and holistic sebaceous balance care. Each coil speaks of heritage, while the eyes reflect the profound wisdom inherent in low manipulation styling affirming the richness of Black hair traditions and mixed-race hair narratives.

What Ancestral Hair Narratives Inform Modern Understanding?

The threads of African hair artistry extend back millennia, preceding written records, visible in ancient rock paintings and artifacts. In pre-colonial African societies, hair styling served as a potent communicative tool. A person’s hairstyle could instantly convey their lineage, marital status, age, social standing, and even their spiritual convictions. For example, the Yoruba people of Nigeria created intricate styles that denoted communal roles.

The Himba people of Namibia adorned their dreadlocked styles with Otjize, a red ochre paste, symbolizing their connection to the earth and their ancestors. These practices were often communal, involving intimate gatherings where wisdom, stories, and the nuanced techniques of hair care were passed between generations, fostering bonds of community and shared purpose. Hair was considered sacred, a point of connection to the spiritual realm and ancestral wisdom. This ancient reverence for hair as a cultural and spiritual marker stands in stark contrast to the dehumanizing practices that followed the transatlantic slave trade.

The CROWN Act acknowledges that hair is not merely aesthetic; it is a profound extension of identity and a living testament to Black and mixed-race heritage.

Upon forced arrival in the Americas, enslaved Africans frequently had their heads shaved, an attempt to strip them of identity and sever their cultural ties. Yet, even in the most brutal conditions, the spirit of hair heritage endured. Enslaved individuals would repurpose whatever materials they could find—wood, bone, animal fats, plant oils—to care for their hair, transforming survival into a quiet act of cultural resistance. Cornrows, for instance, became more than a style; they were, by some accounts, cunningly fashioned maps encoding escape routes for those seeking freedom, with rice seeds sometimes braided into the hair for later cultivation.

This transformation of hair from a symbol of status to a tool of survival underscores its enduring significance. The “good hair” versus “bad hair” dichotomy that arose post-slavery, favoring looser curls over tightly coiled textures, was a direct consequence of Eurocentric beauty standards imposed upon Black communities. This historical devaluation of Black hair laid the groundwork for discrimination that persisted for centuries, compelling many to chemically alter their hair for social and economic acceptance.

Ritual

The echoes of ancestral practices resonate within the contemporary rituals of textured hair care, a continuum of knowledge passed through the ages. The CROWN Act steps into this living tradition, providing a shield for the practices that sustain our heritage, ensuring that the care and styling choices made are affirmed, not penalized. This legal shield acknowledges that the routines associated with Black and mixed-race hair are often holistic, steeped in tradition, and vital for hair health.

The portrait of this Black woman radiates cultural pride, her textured hair styled in a braided crown beneath a striking headwrap, symbolizes her rich heritage. Her expression is one of quiet strength, reflective of holistic beauty, wellness, and the enduring legacy expressed through her hair's beautiful formation.

How do Daily Practices Echo Ancient Wisdom?

Consider the very act of washing, conditioning, and oiling textured hair. These are not merely cosmetic steps; they are often deeply rooted in ancestral methods that prioritized scalp health, moisture retention, and protection from environmental elements. Natural ingredients, long utilized in African communities, still form the bedrock of many effective regimens. These include:

  • Shea Butter ❉ Extracted from the nuts of the shea tree, revered as “The Sacred Tree of the Savannah,” it provides moisturizing and protective qualities for both skin and hair, used for centuries to maintain hair health and shine.
  • Coconut Oil ❉ A ubiquitous staple, employed for its nourishing properties and ability to penetrate the hair shaft.
  • Aloe Vera ❉ Often called “Nature’s First Aid Plant,” its soothing gel offers healing and moisturizing benefits.
  • Marula Oil ❉ A “liquid gold” from indigenous African trees, recognized for its restorative qualities.
  • Baobab Oil ❉ Derived from the “Tree of Life,” known for its nourishing properties.

These natural bounties, passed down through generations, speak to an intuitive understanding of hair’s needs, often validated by modern science. The CROWN Act, by protecting styles that rely on such care, indirectly safeguards the legacy of these traditional ingredients and the knowledge associated with their use. For example, the consistent use of oils and butters is foundational to maintaining protective styles, which themselves are a testament to ancestral ingenuity.

Ancestral Practice (Pre-Colonial Africa) Hair as a social communicator of status, age, lineage.
Contemporary Parallel (Post-CROWN Act) Hair as a powerful statement of individual and collective identity, celebrated without penalty.
Ancestral Practice (Pre-Colonial Africa) Communal braiding sessions for storytelling and bonding.
Contemporary Parallel (Post-CROWN Act) Hair salons and social media communities as spaces for shared experience and cultural preservation.
Ancestral Practice (Pre-Colonial Africa) Utilization of natural oils and butters for protection.
Contemporary Parallel (Post-CROWN Act) Emphasis on clean, natural hair care products, honoring scalp and strand health.
Ancestral Practice (Pre-Colonial Africa) Protective styling to manage hair and convey meaning.
Contemporary Parallel (Post-CROWN Act) Freedom to wear protective styles (locs, braids, twists) in all public spaces, recognizing their cultural roots.
Ancestral Practice (Pre-Colonial Africa) The continuity of textured hair practices, from ancient ritual to modern self-determination, finds support in the CROWN Act's protective reach.

The practice of protective styling itself is a profound ritual, historically and presently. Styles like cornrows, braids, and twists were not just aesthetic choices in ancient African societies; they were functional, safeguarding the hair from environmental damage, reducing manipulation, and promoting growth. These techniques, developed over thousands of years, represent a sophisticated understanding of textured hair’s unique structure and needs. The CROWN Act’s explicit protection of these styles directly affirms this heritage.

Without such legal safeguards, individuals often face pressure to conform to standards that require altering their natural hair, potentially causing physical damage from harsh chemicals or excessive heat, and psychological distress from denying a core aspect of their being. This forced conformity can lead to a cycle of damage and disempowerment, severing the individual from the holistic care traditions that have served their lineage for generations. The law creates space for practices rooted in care, not compromise.

Soft light reveals the beauty of coiled braids in this monochrome portrait. This is a visual narrative exploring nuanced aesthetics, braided coil formations, and the rich tapestry of mixed-race heritage, inviting reflection on ancestral connections and the personalized expression of identity through natural hair textures.

Do Protective Styles Possess a Deeper, Hidden Heritage?

Indeed, the history of protective styles carries layers of meaning beyond simple aesthetics or hair health. During the era of enslavement, cornrows, intricate and closely braided to the scalp, are believed by some historians to have been used to conceal rice seeds for cultivation in new lands, or even to map escape routes for freedom-seeking individuals, a silent language of survival and resistance. This profound historical context elevates these styles from mere adornment to powerful symbols of defiance and ingenuity. The CROWN Act, by making it unlawful to discriminate based on these styles, actively contributes to the reclamation and re-contextualization of this hidden heritage.

It states, without reservation, that these expressions of self, born from necessity and resilience, are not only acceptable but protected. This protection supports the continued practice and celebration of these styles, ensuring their legacy persists and is understood in its full cultural depth.

Relay

The passage and ongoing efforts to expand the CROWN Act represent a critical relay in the long race for equity, bridging the ancestral past with a more just future. It serves as a legislative acknowledgment of the deep-seated societal biases against textured hair, biases that historically denied Black and mixed-race individuals access to education, employment, and full participation in public life. The legislation, standing for “Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair,” specifically prohibits discrimination based on hair texture and protective hairstyles commonly associated with race or national origin, such as locs, braids, twists, and Afros.

Radiant smiles reflect connection as textured hair is meticulously braided affirming cultural heritage, community and the art of expressive styling. This moment underscores the deep rooted tradition of Black hair care as self care, celebrating identity and skilled artistry in textured hair formation for wellness.

What Specific Societal Gaps Does the CROWN Act Address?

Prior to the CROWN Act, existing anti-discrimination laws, like Title VII of the Civil Rights Act of 1964, often proved insufficient. Courts frequently interpreted “race” narrowly, failing to account for hair discrimination as a direct form of racial bias. This legal ambiguity left countless individuals vulnerable to policies that, while appearing race-neutral on the surface, disproportionately harmed Black communities. For instance, grooming codes demanding “professional” hairstyles often implicitly, or explicitly, excluded natural Black hair textures and styles, forcing individuals to chemically straighten or hide their hair to avoid adverse consequences.

This situation created a dilemma for many, choosing between their authentic cultural self-expression and their educational or professional advancement. The CROWN Act directly addresses this shortfall by expanding the definition of race to explicitly include traits historically linked to race, like hair texture and protective styles. It codifies a recognition that discrimination based on hair is a form of racial discrimination.

The CROWN Act stands as a legislative declaration, affirming that hair discrimination is indeed racial discrimination.

The societal impact of hair discrimination is well-documented. A 2020 study from Michigan State University and Duke University revealed that Black women with natural hairstyles were less likely to secure job interviews compared to White women or Black women with straightened hair. Furthermore, the study indicated that natural Black hairstyles were often perceived as less professional. This sentiment was echoed in a 2019 Dove study, which found that 80% of Black women reported feeling compelled to alter their natural hair to conform to workplace standards.

Another recent study by Dove and LinkedIn in 2023 indicated that Black women’s hair is 2.5 times more likely to be perceived as “unprofessional”. These statistics reveal a systemic barrier, not a mere aesthetic preference. The CROWN Act seeks to dismantle this barrier, allowing individuals to present themselves authentically without fear of professional or educational reprisal. The legislation also helps to mitigate the psychological toll of such discrimination, which can range from anxiety and embarrassment to a diminished sense of self-esteem. By affirming the right to wear natural hair, the CROWN Act protects not only opportunities but also personal well-being.

Notable instances prior to the CROWN Act’s widespread adoption brought national attention to the issue. The case of Chastity Jones, who had a job offer rescinded because she refused to cut her locs, exemplifies the overt discrimination faced by Black individuals in the workplace. In educational settings, incidents such as De’Andre Arnold being prevented from participating in his high school graduation due to his locs, or Ruby Williams being sent home for her Afro, underscore the need for explicit protections in schools. The CROWN Act has seen legislative success at the state level, with California being the first to enact it in 2019.

As of 2023, more than twenty states have adopted similar laws. While the federal CROWN Act passed the U.S. House of Representatives in both 2020 and 2022, it encountered hurdles in the Senate, yet efforts for its national passage continue.

This arresting image celebrates the richness and versatility of textured hair through the elaborate braided crown. The interplay of light and shadow highlights the intricate formations, reflecting a narrative of cultural heritage, expressive styling, and the enduring beauty of Black hair traditions in this stunning visual exploration.

How Does Legal Protection Influence Cultural Reclamation and Future Generations?

The CROWN Act’s protective reach extends beyond immediate legal recourse. It supports a broader movement of cultural reclamation, empowering individuals to proudly wear styles that connect them to their heritage. This legal affirmation encourages the celebration of ancestral knowledge and challenges the long-standing imposition of Eurocentric beauty ideals. For younger generations, the implications are particularly profound.

A 2021 CROWN Research Study for Girls reported that 53% of Black mothers stated their daughters had experienced racial discrimination based on hairstyles as early as five years old. When children are told their natural hair is “unprofessional” or “distracting,” it directly impacts their developing self-worth and connection to their cultural identity. The CROWN Act works to shield these young individuals from such harmful experiences, allowing them to grow up with a secure sense of identity and pride in their hair’s natural form. This foundational shift in societal expectation, backed by legal authority, helps to dismantle internalized biases and cultivates environments where all hair textures are not only tolerated but respected and celebrated. The act helps to cultivate a society where the inherent beauty of textured hair is simply accepted, requiring no justification or explanation, a vital step in preserving the living legacy of Black hair heritage for generations to come.

  1. Historical Precedent ❉ The Tignon Laws of 1786 in Louisiana, which forced Black women to cover their hair, serve as an early example of legal efforts to suppress Black hair expression and cultural identity.
  2. Modern Data ❉ The CROWN Act’s positive impact is evident in states where it has been adopted, showing a 25% decrease in reported hair discrimination incidents.
  3. Generational Impact ❉ For Black children, experiencing hair discrimination at an early age can negatively affect self-esteem, making legislative protection a crucial tool for nurturing identity.

Reflection

The journey of textured hair, from ancient veneration to modern legal protection, is a profound testament to enduring spirit. It is a chronicle written not in dusty tomes alone, but upon the very coils and curls that crown so many, a living record of heritage and resistance. The CROWN Act, in its principled stand, is a legislative echo of a deeper truth ❉ that the soul of a strand, indeed the soul of a people, cannot be contained or legislated away. It speaks to the enduring legacy of ancestral practices, the intimate whispers of care passed from elder to youth, and the courageous declarations of self that manifest in every unique texture and style.

Our exploration shows that this law offers more than mere legal recourse; it offers affirmation, a profound societal recognition of the inherent worth and cultural sanctity of Black and mixed-race hair. It provides a foundation upon which future generations may stand, heads held high, secure in the knowledge that their natural beauty, a gift from their ancestors, is protected and honored. This living archive of hair, with all its rich history and future possibilities, continues to unfold, each strand a story, each style a song of enduring heritage.

References

  • Byrd, A. L. & Tharps, L. (2014). Hair Story ❉ Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. St. Martin’s Press.
  • Mbilishaka, A. (2020). Hair Discrimination in Schools ❉ The Impact on Black Girls’ Mental Health .
  • Rooks, N. M. (1996). Hair Raising ❉ Beauty, Culture, and African American Women. Rutgers University Press.
  • Dove CROWN Research Study for Girls. (2021). The Official CROWN Act.
  • Dove and LinkedIn CROWN Workplace Research Study. (2023). The Official CROWN Act.
  • Johnson, A. (2014). Black Hair, Black History, Black Self-Esteem .
  • Rosette, A. & Rosette, C. (2020). The Natural Hair Bias in Job Recruitment. Michigan State University and Duke University.
  • Goodman, L. (2021). Wearing My Crown to Work ❉ The Crown Act as a Solution to Shortcomings of Title VII for Hair Discrimination in the Workplace. Touro Law Review, 37(1), 1007-1030.
  • Pliakas, T. (2022). Yes, We Need a Law Protecting Black People Against Hair Discrimination. Washington Post.
  • Lloyd, C. (2021). One in Four Black Workers Report Discrimination at Work. Gallup.
  • Asamoah, A. B. (2024). Testimony on the Reintroduction of the CROWN Act .

Glossary

crown act

Meaning ❉ The CROWN Act establishes legal protections against discrimination based on hair texture and styles frequently worn by individuals of Black or mixed heritage.

protective styles

Meaning ❉ Protective Styles denote a thoughtful strategy in textured hair care, meticulously crafted to shield the hair's more vulnerable lengths from routine manipulation and environmental exposure.

textured hair

Meaning ❉ Textured hair describes the natural hair structure characterized by its unique curl patterns, ranging from expansive waves to closely wound coils, a common trait across individuals of Black and mixed heritage.

black hair

Meaning ❉ Black Hair describes the spectrum of hair textures primarily found within communities of African heritage, recognized by its distinct curl patterns—from expansive waves to tightly coiled formations—and an often elliptical follicle shape, which fundamentally shapes its unique growth trajectory.

ancestral practices

Meaning ❉ Ancestral Practices, within the context of textured hair understanding, describe the enduring wisdom and gentle techniques passed down through generations, forming a foundational knowledge for nurturing Black and mixed-race hair.

these styles

Historical care traditions for textured hair frequently employed shea butter, coconut oil, and castor oil, deeply rooted in ancestral knowledge for protection and cultural affirmation.

their natural

Ancient Egyptians meticulously cared for textured hair using natural oils, protective styles, and wigs, reflecting a deep heritage of beauty and identity.

natural hair

Meaning ❉ Natural Hair refers to unaltered hair texture, deeply rooted in African ancestral practices and serving as a powerful symbol of heritage and identity.

hair discrimination

Meaning ❉ Hair Discrimination, a subtle yet impactful bias, refers to the differential and often unfavorable treatment of individuals based on the natural characteristics or chosen styles of their hair, especially those textures and forms historically worn by Black and mixed-race persons.

black women

Meaning ❉ Black Women, through their textured hair, embody a living heritage of ancestral wisdom, cultural resilience, and profound identity.