Roots
The very strands that crown our heads hold ancestral memory, a living chronicle etched into each curl, coil, and wave. For generations, textured hair has served as a profound marker of identity, lineage, and resilience across Black and mixed-race communities. It speaks a language of its own, a silent yet potent dialogue between past and present. Yet, for too long, this deeply rooted heritage has faced dismissal, misunderstanding, and outright subjugation within societal constructs that favored a singular, narrow vision of beauty.
The CROWN Act, a legislative undertaking, steps into this long-standing narrative, not merely as a legal decree, but as a reaffirmation of inherent worth, a balm for historical wounds, and a protector of a heritage that refused to be erased. It reaches into the very essence of what it means to exist with textured hair, extending its protective reach to affirm a profound sense of well-being for those who wear their ancestral patterns with pride.
Hair Anatomy and Physiology Specific to Textured Hair
The biological architecture of textured hair distinguishes it in fundamental ways from other hair types. Rather than emerging from a round follicle, highly curved hair often originates from an Elliptical Follicle, situated at an acute angle within the scalp. This distinct follicular shape imparts the characteristic helical twist to the hair shaft itself, creating a spiral or S-shaped form. This curvature, while aesthetically remarkable, also presents unique challenges.
The natural oils, sebum, produced by the scalp, find it more difficult to travel down the length of a tightly coiled strand compared to a straight one, leading to a propensity for dryness. Furthermore, the points of curvature along the hair shaft represent areas of structural weakness, making textured hair more susceptible to mechanical damage and breakage if not handled with informed care.
Ancestral practices, long before the advent of modern science, intuitively understood these unique characteristics. Ancient communities developed care rituals that prioritized moisture retention and gentle manipulation, recognizing the hair’s delicate nature. The CROWN Act, by safeguarding the right to wear natural textures, indirectly supports these biologically appropriate care methods.
It removes the societal pressure to chemically alter hair to conform to a straightened ideal, alterations that historically caused significant physical damage to the hair shaft and scalp. This legal protection, therefore, permits a harmony between biological reality and daily practice, fostering a genuine state of hair well-being.
Textured Hair Classification Systems and Their Heritage
The attempt to categorize human hair is not new, yet its history is fraught with troubling origins. Early scientific classifications often relied on broad racial groupings, such as “Caucasian,” “Asian,” and “African” hair, failing to capture the immense diversity within these populations. More disturbingly, some of the earliest hair typing systems, like the “hair gauge” developed by Eugen Fischer in 1908, a German Nazi scientist, were explicitly designed to measure a person’s “proximity to whiteness” based on their hair texture, serving racist ideologies. This historical lineage taints many subsequent classification efforts, even those purportedly for cosmetic purposes, as they can inadvertently perpetuate a hierarchy where looser curls or straighter textures are implicitly favored over tightly coiled hair, a phenomenon sometimes termed Texturism.
How does the CROWN Act disentangle this legacy of classification bias? By focusing on the protection of all hair textures and styles historically associated with race, particularly Black identity, the Act shifts the legal and social lens away from discriminatory categorization. It acknowledges that the very concept of “professional” hair has been historically constructed upon Eurocentric standards, effectively marginalizing and penalizing natural Black hair.
The Act asserts that the inherent beauty and validity of textured hair are not subject to external, biased metrics. It affirms that the diverse expressions of Black hair, regardless of where they fall on a classification chart, are deserving of respect and protection, allowing individuals to define their own hair identity without fear of systemic reprisal.
The Essential Lexicon of Textured Hair
The language we use to describe textured hair carries weight, reflecting centuries of cultural experience and, at times, colonial influence. Terms like Coils, Kinks, and Waves describe the physical characteristics of hair, while terms like Locs, Braids, and Twists denote specific styling traditions. Historically, many descriptors for textured hair, particularly those used in mainstream society, were laden with negative connotations, labeling natural hair as “unruly,” “messy,” or “unprofessional”. These words served to diminish the hair’s intrinsic beauty and its cultural significance.
The CROWN Act provides a legal framework that validates the vocabulary of textured hair. It creates a space where these terms are not just descriptive but are recognized as components of a protected racial identity. This legislative recognition lends authority to the communal lexicon, moving it from a space of informal discourse to one of legal standing.
When laws acknowledge “locs” or “braids” as protected styles, they simultaneously elevate the terms themselves, stripping away historical prejudice and imbuing them with a renewed sense of legitimacy and pride. This legitimization of language directly supports the well-being of textured hair wearers by affirming their chosen modes of expression and the words they use to describe them.
Hair Growth Cycles and Influencing Factors
Hair growth follows a cyclical pattern ❉ anagen (growth), catagen (transition), and telogen (rest). While this biological cycle is universal, external factors significantly influence hair health and appearance. For textured hair wearers, particularly those of Black and mixed-race heritage, these influencing factors have historically included more than just genetics or nutrition.
The stress of constant discrimination, the pressure to conform to Eurocentric beauty standards, and the use of harsh chemical straighteners have all taken a toll on hair health over generations. Chemical relaxers, for instance, were widely used to alter hair texture, often leading to scalp irritation, breakage, and even hair loss.
The CROWN Act supports hair well-being by removing the systemic pressure to alter natural hair, allowing practices that honor its unique biology and heritage.
The CROWN Act addresses these historical burdens by reducing the external pressures that compelled individuals to compromise their hair’s health. By protecting the right to wear natural hair in schools and workplaces, the Act diminishes the perceived necessity of chemical treatments or excessive heat styling. This legal shield allows individuals to prioritize practices that genuinely nourish their hair, such as moisture-rich regimens and protective styling, rather than those driven by a fear of social or professional exclusion. This shift towards hair practices aligned with biological needs, free from the shadow of discrimination, contributes directly to the physical well-being of textured hair and, by extension, the overall health of its wearers.
Ritual
To walk with textured hair is to carry a legacy of deliberate care, a succession of practices passed down through generations, each touch a whisper of ancestral wisdom. These rituals, whether daily acts of nourishment or intricate styling sessions, are not mere routines; they are living testaments to creativity, resilience, and a profound connection to self and community. The CROWN Act enters this sacred space, not as an imposition, but as a protective hand, ensuring that the expression of these deeply meaningful rituals finds acceptance and respect in all public spheres. It affirms that the journey of textured hair, from its elemental biology to its vibrant presentation, is a valid and valued aspect of one’s being, deserving of honor and protection.
Protective Styling Encyclopedia and Ancestral Roots
Protective styles stand as a testament to the ingenuity and resourcefulness of textured hair heritage. Styles such as Braids, Cornrows, and Locs have been central to African cultures for thousands of years, serving not only as adornment but also as markers of identity, age, marital status, social rank, and even spiritual beliefs. These styles protected the hair from environmental elements, minimized manipulation, and encouraged growth.
During the transatlantic slave trade, when enslaved Africans were forcibly stripped of their cultural markers, hair practices, including braiding, became an act of defiance and a means of preserving identity and communicating coded messages. The patterns and designs carried deep meaning, connecting individuals to their homeland and community even in the face of brutal oppression.
The CROWN Act directly champions the right to wear these culturally significant protective styles without fear of discrimination in academic or professional settings. This legislative action validates centuries of ancestral practice, allowing textured hair wearers to honor their lineage through their appearance. When a student can wear their cornrows to school or an employee their locs to work without facing disciplinary action or being denied opportunities, the Act reinforces the cultural pride associated with these styles. This legal recognition moves beyond mere tolerance, affirming the inherent professionalism and beauty of these styles, thereby contributing to the psychological well-being that comes from self-acceptance and cultural affirmation.
Natural Styling and Definition Techniques
The art of defining natural curls and coils has evolved over millennia, with traditional methods often relying on natural ingredients and patient handiwork. From ancient African communities using plant-based oils and butters to sculpt and define hair, to contemporary practices that emphasize hydration and curl clump formation, the goal has remained consistent ❉ to celebrate the hair’s inherent pattern. These techniques, whether a simple twist-out or a meticulously defined wash-and-go, are acts of self-care and artistic expression, connecting the individual to a broader heritage of textured hair aesthetics.
Legal recognition of natural hair styles affirms a wearer’s right to express their heritage and identity without fear of bias.
The CROWN Act’s influence here is profound. Historically, natural hair was often deemed “unprofessional” or “unkempt,” leading many textured hair wearers to straighten their hair through chemical or heat-intensive processes to meet societal expectations. This pressure not only caused physical damage but also fostered a sense of alienation from one’s natural self. By prohibiting discrimination based on hair texture and style, the Act frees individuals to embrace their natural patterns.
It permits the daily ritual of defining one’s curls to be an act of joy and self-acceptance, rather than a hidden practice. This freedom encourages a deeper connection to the hair’s natural state, promoting well-being that arises from authenticity.
Wigs and Hair Extensions Mastery and Historical Uses
The history of wigs and hair extensions extends across diverse cultures and time periods, serving varied purposes from status symbols and religious observance to fashion and practical protection. Within the heritage of textured hair, wigs and extensions have held particular significance, offering versatility, protective styling, and a means of cultural expression or adaptation. In some ancestral traditions, elaborate hairpieces conveyed wealth or social standing. During periods of intense hair discrimination, extensions and wigs sometimes served as a strategic means for Black individuals to conform to Eurocentric beauty standards while protecting their natural hair underneath or maintaining employment.
The CROWN Act, in its broad scope, extends protection to hair textures and styles, which implicitly includes how hair is worn, whether natural or augmented. By recognizing that hair choices, including the use of wigs and extensions, can be tied to racial identity and cultural expression, the Act helps dismantle the notion that certain appearances are inherently unprofessional. This is especially pertinent for styles that utilize extensions, such as certain braids or weaves, which have deep roots in African and diasporic hair traditions.
The Act ensures that individuals are not penalized for choosing to wear their hair in ways that align with their cultural practices or personal preference, even when those choices involve supplemental hair. This protection reinforces the idea that one’s appearance, when connected to racial identity, should not be a barrier to opportunity.
The Complete Textured Hair Toolkit
The tools used for textured hair care are as varied as the hair itself, many with long histories. From wide-tooth combs crafted from natural materials in ancient times to modern detangling brushes, each implement serves a specific purpose in the delicate process of managing curls and coils. Ancestral tools often reflected local resources and ingenuity, such as bone or wooden combs designed to navigate dense textures gently. These tools were not merely functional; they were often part of communal grooming rituals, reinforcing social bonds and the transmission of hair knowledge.
The CROWN Act, by affirming the right to wear textured hair, indirectly supports the entire ecosystem of care that surrounds it, including the tools employed. When textured hair is no longer seen as “other” or “unprofessional,” the tools and products specifically designed for its care gain greater legitimacy in broader society. This means less pressure to use tools or methods that are inappropriate or damaging for textured hair in an attempt to force it into a different form.
The Act allows for the celebration of the complete textured hair toolkit, from traditional picks to modern detangling brushes, as essential components of a valued and respected hair journey. This freedom to use appropriate tools without judgment fosters healthier hair and a greater sense of well-being for the wearer.
Relay
How does a legislative act, born of contemporary struggle, truly reach into the deep currents of ancestral memory and reshape the well-being of a people? The CROWN Act, far from a mere policy adjustment, represents a profound continuation of a centuries-long relay race for identity, self-determination, and recognition. It is a legal affirmation that the inherent dignity of textured hair, a sacred aspect of Black and mixed-race heritage, can no longer be legally dismissed or penalized. This section unearths the complex interplay of historical injustice, psychological burden, and economic disparity that necessitated such a law, demonstrating how its presence now reclaims space for authentic expression and collective healing, carrying forward the torch of ancestral wisdom into the future.
The Legal Lineage of Hair Discrimination
The policing of Black hair in America possesses a deeply entrenched and painful history, stretching back to the earliest days of chattel enslavement. Upon arrival in unfamiliar lands, one of the initial dehumanizing acts inflicted upon enslaved Africans was the forced shaving of their heads, a brutal erasure of cultural identity and spiritual connection that hair held in their homelands. This act marked the beginning of a deliberate campaign to strip individuals of their heritage and impose Eurocentric standards.
Post-slavery, these discriminatory practices continued through various forms. In 1786, Louisiana enacted the Tignon Laws, compelling free Black women, who wore elaborate and admired hairstyles, to cover their hair with a tignon (head scarf). This law aimed to visually assert their lower social status and prevent them from “enticing White men”. Throughout the 19th and 20th centuries, societal pressures and informal policies often coerced Black individuals to alter their hair through chemical straightening or hot combs to gain social and economic acceptance, a process often painful and damaging.
The legal landscape remained precarious for decades. While the Civil Rights Act of 1964 prohibited employment discrimination based on race, courts often interpreted “race” narrowly, excluding hair texture or styles from protection. For example, in the 1981 case of Rogers v. American Airlines, a Black woman was denied the right to wear braids, with the court ruling that braids were not an “immutable racial characteristic”.
This precedent allowed employers to ban “extreme and unusual hairstyles,” which disproportionately affected Black hair. The CROWN Act directly challenges this long lineage of legal and social marginalization by explicitly defining race to include hair texture and protective styles, thereby rectifying historical oversights and ensuring legal recourse for those who face discrimination.
Psychological Liberation and Identity Affirmation
The persistent societal devaluation of textured hair has imposed a profound psychological burden on Black and mixed-race individuals. Messages, overt and subtle, that natural hair is “unprofessional,” “messy,” or “unacceptable” contribute to internalized racism, negative self-image, and heightened anxiety, particularly in academic and professional settings. The constant need to conform, often through physically damaging processes, can lead to identity conflict and a diminished sense of belonging.
Research highlights the pervasive nature of this issue ❉ a 2020 study by Duke University and Michigan State University found that Black Women with Natural Hairstyles Were Perceived as Less Professional, Less Competent, and Less Likely to Be Recommended for Job Interviews Than Candidates with Straight Hair. This pervasive bias means that the simple act of wearing one’s hair naturally could translate into lost opportunities and chronic stress.
The CROWN Act provides a vital pathway to psychological liberation. By offering legal protection, it creates environments where textured hair wearers can present authentically without fear of reprisal. This affirmation of self, rooted in the right to wear one’s natural hair, reduces the anxiety and stress associated with conformity. When schools and workplaces are legally mandated to accept diverse hair expressions, it sends a powerful message that one’s natural appearance is not a barrier to success or acceptance.
This shift fosters self-acceptance, reinforces cultural pride, and allows individuals to reconnect with a sense of self that was historically suppressed. The Act acknowledges that hair is not merely aesthetic; it is deeply intertwined with identity, self-worth, and cultural continuity.
Economic Equity and Professional Presence
Hair discrimination has historically served as a significant barrier to economic equity for textured hair wearers. Policies deeming natural styles “unprofessional” have resulted in lost job opportunities, denied promotions, and even termination. This systemic bias contributes to existing socioeconomic disparities, limiting career advancement and perpetuating cycles of disadvantage.
For example, a 2019 study by Dove found that Black women are 1.5 times more likely to be sent home from the workplace because of their hair, and 80 percent reported feeling pressured to alter their hairstyles to align with “conservative standards” for work. This pressure often translated into significant financial expenditure on chemical treatments or wigs, adding an economic burden to the psychological one.
The CROWN Act directly addresses these economic injustices. By prohibiting discrimination based on hair texture and protective styles, it dismantles a key barrier to entry and advancement in various sectors. This legal clarity means that qualifications and skills, rather than hair texture, become the primary determinants of opportunity.
As more states adopt the CROWN Act, it opens doors for textured hair wearers to participate fully in the workforce, pursue their chosen careers without hindrance, and achieve economic parity. This legal safeguard contributes to overall well-being by reducing financial strain and increasing access to opportunities that were previously denied due to arbitrary and discriminatory grooming policies.
Ancestral Echoes in Modern Law
The CROWN Act, though a modern legislative instrument, resonates with ancient principles of self-possession and cultural integrity. Across many African societies, hair was a powerful symbol of the self, lineage, and connection to the spiritual realm. It was not merely a physical attribute but a living extension of one’s being, often styled to communicate intricate social information.
The communal act of hair grooming reinforced social bonds and transmitted cultural knowledge, ensuring that traditions persisted through generations. The forced shaving of heads during enslavement was an attempt to sever these profound connections, to erase the visual archive of identity and heritage.
The CROWN Act represents a modern legal affirmation of the enduring ancestral right to self-expression through hair.
The CROWN Act, in this light, serves as a contemporary legal embodiment of these long-held cultural values. It acknowledges that the right to wear one’s hair in its natural state or in traditional styles is not a trivial matter of personal preference but a fundamental aspect of racial identity and cultural expression. It echoes the resilience of ancestors who, despite immense pressure, found ways to maintain their hair traditions as acts of resistance and survival.
The Act stands as a legal acknowledgment that the “crown” on one’s head carries history, culture, and spirit, deserving of the same protections as any other aspect of racial identity. It ensures that future generations can inherit and celebrate their textured hair heritage without fear of systemic oppression, allowing the echoes of ancestral wisdom to reverberate freely in modern society.
Reflection
The journey through the textured hair landscape, from its intricate biological roots to the profound cultural narratives it embodies, reveals a truth both ancient and ever-present ❉ hair is a living archive. Each curl, each coil, each loc holds stories of survival, artistry, and an unyielding spirit. The CROWN Act, a contemporary response to centuries of historical injustice, emerges not as a conclusion, but as a vital milestone in this ongoing chronicle. It stands as a testament to the enduring power of heritage, ensuring that the expression of one’s true self, particularly through the crowning glory of textured hair, is met with respect and legal protection.
This legislative stride helps mend the ruptures of the past, allowing for a collective breath of relief and a future where the soul of every strand can unfurl in freedom and celebrated authenticity. It reminds us that well-being is not simply the absence of harm, but the active affirmation of identity, a continuous dialogue with our deepest roots, and a vibrant declaration of who we are, beautifully, uniquely, and without compromise.
References
- Byrd, A. & Tharps, L. L. (2001). Hair Story ❉ Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. St. Martin’s Press.
- Caldwell, P. (1991). A Hair Piece ❉ Perspectives on the Historical and Legal Regulation of Black Women’s Hair. Duke Law Journal, 40(2), 365-442.
- Mbilishaka, A. (2024). Don’t Get It Twisted ❉ Untangling the Psychology of Hair Discrimination Within Black Communities. American Journal of Orthopsychiatry.
- Tharps, L. L. (2014). Hair Story ❉ Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. St. Martin’s Press.
- Rosado, S. (2003). The Grammar of Hair ❉ Black Women and Hair in the African Diaspora. Journal of Black Studies, 34(1), 61-75.
- Johnson, D. A. & Griffin, J. (2020). The Natural Hair Bias in Job Recruitment. Duke University Fuqua School of Business Working Paper.
- Perception Institute. (2016). The Good Hair Study ❉ Explicit and Implicit Attitudes Toward Black Women’s Hair.
- Dove CROWN Coalition. (2023). CROWN 2023 Workplace Research Study.