How does the CROWN Act honor heritage?

Roots

Consider for a moment the very strands that spring from the scalp, each a testament to ancestry, a delicate coil or curve holding stories unspoken yet profoundly felt. For generations, Black and mixed-race communities have understood hair not merely as a biological appendage, a covering for the head, but as a living archive, a sacred scroll etched with the lineage of defiance and beauty. It is a crown, indeed, one that has too often been met with the cold gaze of judgment in spaces meant for growth and opportunity.

When we speak of the CROWN Act, we speak to this deep, abiding truth, recognizing in its spirit a movement to honor not just a right to wear one’s hair as it naturally grows, but to reaffirm a heritage continually seeking its proper place under the sun. This legislative action, born from a need to dismantle long-standing discriminatory practices, marks a significant step in acknowledging the cultural weight and historical significance of textured hair.

This act steps onto a stage set by centuries of cultural expression and, sadly, oppression. Textured hair, in its myriad forms—from the tightest coils to loose waves—has been a canvas for artistry and a badge of identity across African diasporic communities for millennia. From intricate braiding patterns that signaled tribal affiliation, marital status, or even age in ancient West African societies, to the practical and spiritual uses of hair in daily life, the connection between hair and identity is undeniable. The Himba people of Namibia, for example, employ rich red ochre paste for their hair, symbolizing not just beauty but a connection to their land and ancestors.

Yoruba women have traditionally styled hair in complex braids to pay homage to deities in sacred ceremonies. These practices underscore a truth ❉ hair has always been a language, speaking volumes about a person’s origins, their community, and their place in the world.

The CROWN Act acknowledges a biological truth ❉ textured hair, in its spirals and coils, is a direct link to a profound ancestral narrative.

Hair Anatomy and Its Ancestral Echoes

To truly grasp the essence of textured hair and the CROWN Act’s embrace of heritage, a look at its elemental biology is fitting. Human hair, at its core, emerges from follicles, those tiny pockets nestled within the skin. The shape of these follicles, particularly their elliptical or oval cross-section, largely dictates the curl pattern of hair. For highly textured hair, the follicle is typically more flattened and ribbon-like, causing the hair shaft to grow in a tight, helical spiral.

This spiraling structure influences how moisture travels along the strand, how light reflects, and how hair responds to environmental factors. It is a remarkable biological adaptation, believed by evolutionary biologists to have offered protection from intense ultraviolet radiation for early human ancestors living under the African sun. This intrinsic structure, then, carries echoes of humanity’s very beginnings, a living record within each curl.

The density and grouping of these helical strands create a collective volume and resilience unique to textured hair. The classifications commonly used today, such as the widely adopted hair typing system (ranging from 1 for straight to 4C for the most tightly coiled), attempt to categorize this vast spectrum. While these systems provide a modern lexicon for care, they often fall short of capturing the rich, specific cultural terms and understandings that have historically defined hair within Black and mixed-race communities. Understanding the biological reality of textured hair moves us beyond superficial judgment, allowing us to recognize the wisdom embedded in ancestral practices that cared for these unique strands, long before microscopes revealed their inner workings.

The Unspoken Language of Hair Texture

The very language used to describe hair has, at times, been a battleground. Terms like “good hair” or “bad hair,” steeped in Eurocentric beauty standards, have historically devalued natural texture within the Black community. These labels imposed a hierarchy, associating straight or loosely curled hair with professionalism and beauty, while dismissing tightly coiled textures as unruly or unprofessional. This was not a random occurrence; it was a societal imposition, dating back to periods of enslavement and colonialism when Black hair was deliberately dehumanized to validate exploitation.

The CROWN Act directly challenges these biased perceptions, aiming to dismantle the notion that one’s natural texture determines worth or capability. It asserts that hair, as it grows from one’s head, requires no apology or alteration to meet arbitrary standards.

A particular statistic brings this into sharp focus ❉ A 2020 study from Duke University found that Black women with natural hairstyles were perceived as less professional, less competent, and less likely to be recommended for job interviews than candidates with straightened hair (Koval & Rosette, 2020). This research points directly to the systemic bias woven into perceptions of professionalism, highlighting a tangible impact of hair discrimination on economic opportunity. The CROWN Act, by explicitly prohibiting such discrimination, provides a legal shield against these biases, allowing individuals to pursue education and employment without sacrificing their authentic selves or their cultural heritage.

Ritual

The journey of textured hair through history is marked by a profound connection to ritual, a series of practices that transcend mere styling. These traditions, passed down through generations, speak to an intricate knowledge of natural properties, a reverence for the body, and the communal bonds forged in shared spaces of care. The CROWN Act, in its legislative stance, acknowledges the legitimacy and cultural centrality of these styling rituals, moving them from the realm of personal preference into the protected space of heritage expression. It recognizes that what might appear to some as a simple hairstyle holds deep cultural meaning, a living connection to ancestral ingenuity and a resilient spirit.

Consider the practice of cornrows, an ancient African braiding technique whose historical significance extends back thousands of years. Depictions of cornrows have been found in African art dating to 3500 BCE. Beyond their aesthetic appeal, these intricate patterns conveyed vital information ❉ tribal identity, marital status, age, or even social rank. During the transatlantic slave trade, cornrows took on another profound layer of meaning; they became a discreet form of communication and even a means of survival.

Enslaved people used cornrow patterns to map escape routes or conceal rice seeds for sustenance on their desperate journeys. This historical context transforms cornrows from a hairstyle into a symbol of resistance, resourcefulness, and cultural continuity. The act of wearing such styles today is, for many, an active participation in this powerful legacy.

Styling textured hair is often a communal act, a tender thread connecting generations through shared touch and stories.

Protective Styling ❉ Echoes of Survival and Beauty

Protective styles are central to the heritage of textured hair care. These styles, which tuck away fragile ends and minimize manipulation, are not modern inventions; their roots extend deep into African traditions. Styles such as braids, twists, and locs safeguarded hair from harsh elements and allowed for extended periods between styling, crucial for communities with demanding lives. The ingenuity embedded in these practices speaks to an understanding of hair health developed over centuries.

• Braids ❉ Beyond their beauty, braids (like box braids, cornrows, and Senegalese twists) have served as indicators of status, age, and tribal affiliation in various African societies. They minimized tangling and offered a protective structure.
• Twists ❉ Two-strand twists, a simple yet effective method, protected hair while allowing for moisture retention and length retention. This method has been a staple for generations seeking to nurture their coils.
• Locs ❉ Historically, locs have held spiritual and cultural significance in numerous African communities, symbolizing wisdom, strength, and a connection to nature or higher powers. They epitomize a natural, undisturbed state of hair.

These protective styles, now gaining wider recognition and acceptance, have long been integral to the cultural identity and self-preservation of Black communities. The CROWN Act steps in to ensure that choosing to wear these heritage-rich styles does not result in professional or educational detriment, affirming their place in contemporary society.

Natural Hair and Its Definition ❉ A Return to Self?

Beyond protective measures, the broader movement towards embracing natural hair textures has seen a resurgence. This return to self, for many, signifies a conscious reclaiming of identity that was suppressed for generations. In the aftermath of slavery and during periods of intense social pressure, many Black individuals felt compelled to chemically alter or straighten their hair to assimilate into Eurocentric beauty standards.

Madam C.J. Walker, a pioneering Black businesswoman, built an empire around products that, while empowering for many Black women seeking to maintain their hair, also contributed to the normalization of straightened styles as a path to social acceptance.

The CROWN Act champions the freedom to wear hair in its unaltered, natural state, be it an Afro, a wash-and-go, or any other style that honors its inherent texture. This legislative backing provides tangible support for a psychological shift, allowing individuals to define their beauty on their own terms, free from the shadow of biased perceptions. The act of wearing one’s natural hair, then, becomes a daily affirmation of personal autonomy and a celebration of collective heritage.

Relay

The echoes of heritage, carried in each coil and wave, reach forward in time, shaping the future of identity and self-expression. The CROWN Act represents a crucial relay in this ongoing journey, a formal recognition that the discrimination faced by individuals with textured hair extends beyond personal slights to systemic barriers impacting education, employment, and overall well-being. It is a legislative mechanism built to dismantle entrenched biases, affirming that cultural identity, as expressed through hair, warrants profound respect and legal protection. This act, while seeming to address a singular issue, unpacks layers of historical oppression, connecting ancestral practices to contemporary struggles for equity.

The legislative history of hair discrimination reveals a challenging landscape. Historically, federal courts have sometimes ruled that discrimination based on hairstyle was not race discrimination under existing civil rights laws, arguing hair was a mutable characteristic, unlike skin color. This distinction often ignored the deep cultural ties between Black hair and racial identity. For instance, in the 2017 case of EEOC v.

Catastrophe Management Solutions, a Black woman’s job offer was rescinded because she refused to cut her locs, a case that highlighted the legal vacuum surrounding hair discrimination before the CROWN Act’s widespread introduction. Such legal battles underscore the necessity for explicit protections.

The CROWN Act serves as a legal bridge, connecting centuries of cultural hair practices to contemporary rights, affirming that heritage must not be a barrier to opportunity.

Challenging Implicit Bias ❉ A Shift in Perception?

The power of the CROWN Act lies not only in its legal teeth but also in its capacity to challenge implicit biases. Decades of societal conditioning have often linked textured hair, particularly in its natural forms, with negative stereotypes of unprofessionalism or unkemptness. This is not merely a matter of aesthetic preference; it directly impacts economic mobility and psychological well-being. Studies have shown the pervasive nature of this bias.

A 2019 study supported by Dove revealed that Black women are 1.5 times more likely to be sent home from work or to know another Black woman sent home because of their hair. Furthermore, 80 percent of Black women reported feeling they needed to change their hairstyle to fit into corporate settings. These figures speak volumes about the pressure to conform, often at the expense of one’s cultural identity and hair health.

The CROWN Act aims to disrupt these patterns by declaring such biases unlawful. By protecting styles like Afros, braids, locs, and twists, the act validates hair expressions rooted in Black and mixed-race heritage, forcing institutions to reconsider their definitions of “professionalism”. It moves towards a more inclusive standard, one that honors the diversity of human appearance rather than penalizing it. This legislative shift creates a framework for broader cultural change, encouraging a society where individuals are judged on their capabilities, not their hair texture.

The Socio-Economic Ripple ❉ Beyond the Individual

The impact of hair discrimination extends beyond individual experiences, creating significant socio-economic ripple effects within communities of color. The pressure to straighten hair often involves expensive and potentially damaging chemical treatments (relaxers) or heat styling, which can lead to scalp burns, hair loss, and even links to long-term health consequences, such as increased risks for uterine and breast cancer. These costs, both financial and health-related, disproportionately burden Black women, who already face distinct economic challenges due to racial and gender disparities in the workforce.

The CROWN Act, by reducing the compulsion to chemically alter hair for professional acceptance, can alleviate some of these burdens. It can free individuals from the financial outlay required for constant straightening and, more importantly, mitigate health risks associated with certain hair alteration methods. This contributes to a broader sense of holistic well-being, affirming that cultural expression need not come at the cost of one’s health or economic stability. It’s an economic justice measure as much as a civil rights one.

1. Legal Precedent ❉ The CROWN Act explicitly includes hair texture and protective styles in anti-discrimination laws, offering a clear legal basis where previous statutes were ambiguous or ineffective.
2. Educational Equity ❉ The act protects students from discriminatory school policies that have led to disciplinary actions or denial of educational opportunities for wearing natural or culturally significant hairstyles.
3. Workplace Inclusion ❉ It prohibits employers from discriminating against individuals based on hair, fostering environments where natural hair is accepted and celebrated as a valid expression of identity.

The progression of the CROWN Act, from its initial signing in California in 2019 to its reintroduction in federal Congress, reflects a growing recognition of the deep-seated issues it addresses. While it has faced obstacles at the federal level, passing the House of Representatives twice but stalling in the Senate, its state-level adoption in over two dozen states and numerous municipalities signals a powerful, ongoing movement. This decentralized but determined legislative relay carries the weight of history and the aspirations of communities striving for the freedom to be truly themselves.

Reflection

The journey of textured hair is an unfolding saga, stretching from ancient African ceremonial coiffures to the modern professional landscape. The CROWN Act, in its essence, stands as a beacon along this path, illuminating the profound connection between hair, identity, and heritage. It is a legislative acknowledgment that the contours of a curl or the alignment of a braid carry more than mere aesthetic value; they embody the resilience, creativity, and wisdom passed down through generations.

Roothea’s ‘Soul of a Strand’ ethos finds its true expression here, in the space where elemental biology meets ancestral practice, where the tender act of care transforms into a powerful statement of self. This act encourages a societal gaze that moves beyond judgment, seeing instead the luminous legacy held within each strand.

For those whose lineage is woven with the rich traditions of Black and mixed-race communities, hair is a living historical document. The styles, the care rituals, the very texture of the hair, tell stories of survival, adaptation, and an enduring spirit. The CROWN Act helps secure a future where these stories need no longer be hidden or altered for acceptance. It is a profound step toward ensuring that the crowns we wear, in their most natural and authentic forms, are celebrated, protected, and revered in every corner of our shared world.