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Roots

The very strands upon our heads hold stories—generations of sun, wind, rain, and human touch, each shaping a legacy that stretches back to ancestral lands. For those with textured hair, this legacy is particularly profound, a living archive whispered through kinks, coils, and waves. Yet, for too long, the very essence of this heritage faced scrutiny, often deemed “unprofessional” or “unsuitable” in spaces meant for growth and livelihood.

This societal policing of hair, deeply rooted in Eurocentric beauty constructs, has had tangible consequences, impacting educational paths and career aspirations. The CROWN Act emerges as a legal affirmation, a societal declaration that the unique biology and cultural expressions of textured hair are not simply acceptable, but are protected, respected elements of identity in our schools and workplaces.

The image celebrates the intimate act of nurturing textured hair, using rich ingredients on densely coiled strands, reflecting a commitment to holistic wellness and Black hair traditions. This ritual links generations through ancestral knowledge and the practice of self-love embodied in natural hair care.

Textured Hair Anatomy and Ancestral Wisdom

Consider the intricate architecture of textured hair. Its elliptical follicle shape, the dense coiling pattern, and the unique distribution of disulfide bonds differ notably from straighter hair types. This structural variation, far from being a flaw, represents a remarkable adaptation, believed by some evolutionary biologists to protect early human ancestors from intense ultraviolet radiation while allowing scalp aeration (Caffrey, 2023). Our ancestors understood this innate strength, cherishing their hair as a conduit to spiritual realms, a visual marker of social standing, age, and tribal affiliation.

Hairstyles in pre-colonial African societies served as complex visual languages, communicating marital status, wealth, and community roles (Afriklens, 2024; Creative Support, 2022). The Maasai, for instance, held specific beliefs regarding hair and spiritual energy, with the top of the head seen as a point of entry for divine connection (Afriklens, 2024). This historical reverence stands in stark contrast to the dehumanizing practices that began with the transatlantic slave trade, where forcibly shaved heads aimed to erase cultural identity and sever ancestral ties (Dabiri, 2020; VinciWorks, 2024; Wikipedia, 2022). The CROWN Act, in its legislative reach, now safeguards these very expressions of natural hair, thereby acknowledging and defending a biological heritage long misunderstood and suppressed.

This evocative portrait celebrates textured hair through a complex crown braid. It symbolizes cultural artistry, embracing heritage. Monochromatic tones enhance the braid's three-dimensional texture.

Lineage of Hair Classification and Cultural Impact

The language used to describe textured hair has also seen a journey. Terms once used to demean, like “kinky” or “wooly,” spoke to a colonial mindset that sought to categorize and control. Today, modern classification systems, such as those that delineate hair into types 3 and 4 based on curl pattern, aim for a more scientific understanding. Yet, it remains vital to acknowledge the historical biases that shaped perceptions.

The “good hair” versus “bad hair” dichotomy, born from the period leading to the abolition of slavery, placed straighter textures on a pedestal, often influencing social and economic access (Wikipedia, 2022). This hierarchy directly contributed to what is now known as texturism, a form of discrimination where coarser, Afro-textured hair experiences greater bias (Forbes, 2022).

The CROWN Act stands as a beacon, illuminating the intrinsic value of every curl and coil, shifting societal perceptions toward acceptance and protection.

The CROWN Act’s redefinition of race to explicitly include hair texture and protective styles—such as braids, locs, and twists—works to dismantle these deeply ingrained biases (Economic Policy Institute, 2023). It legally challenges the premise that one hair type is inherently more “professional” than another, directly addressing the legacy of discrimination. This legislative step recognizes that hair is not merely an aesthetic choice; it carries a deep cultural load, a reflection of ancestral practices, and a living marker of heritage.

Ritual

The daily care and artistic shaping of textured hair have always been more than mere grooming; they are rituals, practices passed down through hands, stories, and generations. These acts of care, often performed within communal spaces, built bonds and preserved knowledge even in the face of oppressive systems (Afriklens, 2024; Know Your Hairitage, 2023). From ancient African communities where hairstyling communicated complex social codes to the secret cornrow maps braided by enslaved people as routes to freedom, hair has served as a testament to resilience (Know Your Hairitage, 2023; Creative Support, 2022). The CROWN Act now steps into this historical continuum, affirming the sanctity of these styling practices and the right to express them without fear of consequence in contemporary settings.

Within the quietude of nature, an ancestral haircare ritual unfolds, blending botanical wisdom with the intentional care of her crown, nourishing coils and springs, reflecting generations of knowledge passed down to nurture and celebrate textured hair's unique heritage and beauty, a testament to holistic practices.

What is the Historical Significance of Protective Styling Practices?

Protective styles, a cornerstone of textured hair care, bear deep ancestral roots. Cornrows, for instance, date back to 3500 BC in Namibia and ancient Egypt, serving not just as adornment but also as practical solutions for hair health and as markers of identity (Creative Support, 2022; colleen, 2020). Dreadlocks, also known as locs, carry spiritual weight in many indigenous cultures, signifying connection to the divine and a statement of non-conformity (colleen, 2020).

Bantu knots, common among the Zulu Tribe of South Africa, likewise speak to distinct cultural heritage (colleen, 2020). These styles, designed to shield delicate hair from the elements and minimize manipulation, have been integral to hair wellness across millennia.

The imposition of Eurocentric beauty standards historically forced many Black individuals to abandon these traditional styles, often resorting to damaging chemical straighteners or hot combs to conform (Refinery29, 2021; Wikipedia, 2022). Madam C.J. Walker, while building an empire, popularized straightening combs, leading to straight hair being perceived as a requirement for social and career mobility in the early 20th century (Halo Collective, 2024; JSTOR Daily, 2019).

The CROWN Act directly challenges this legacy, providing legal recourse for individuals who choose to honor their ancestral styling practices. It declares that braids, locs, twists, and Afros—styles integral to Black cultural identity—are to be respected in professional and academic environments (The Official CROWN Act, 2023).

Historical Practice Cornrows (Ancient Africa)
Cultural Significance Symbolized tribal identity, status, and even served as escape maps during enslavement.
CROWN Act's Connection to Heritage Protected as a natural, race-associated hairstyle, affirming its historical resilience.
Historical Practice Locs (Maasai, Indigenous Cultures)
Cultural Significance Represented spiritual intent, connection to the divine, and non-conformity.
CROWN Act's Connection to Heritage Recognized as a protected style, challenging historical biases that deemed them "unprofessional."
Historical Practice Headwraps (18th Century Louisiana)
Cultural Significance Initially enforced by law to conceal Black women's hair; later reclaimed as a creative expression of autonomy.
CROWN Act's Connection to Heritage Indirectly supported by creating an environment where overt hair policing is diminished, allowing diverse expressions of identity.
Historical Practice Natural Afro (1960s Black Power Movement)
Cultural Significance A powerful statement of Black pride, resistance, and self-acceptance against Eurocentric norms.
CROWN Act's Connection to Heritage Explicitly included as a protected hair texture and style, safeguarding this symbol of heritage.
Historical Practice These practices highlight a continuous thread of identity, resistance, and artistry, now legally affirmed by the CROWN Act.
This monochrome photograph celebrates the artistry of African-inspired braiding techniques, highlighting the intricate detail and cultural significance of textured hairstyles. The woman's poised expression and sophisticated styling evoke a sense of ancestral heritage and empower beauty, representing a modern interpretation of timeless Black hair traditions.

How does the CROWN Act Influence Daily Styling Choices and Well-Being?

The influence of the CROWN Act stretches into the intimate space of daily hair choices, transforming them from potential liabilities into affirmed expressions of self. Historically, the pressure to conform to Eurocentric standards led many Black women to straighten their hair, often with damaging chemical processes, to secure employment or avoid disciplinary action (Economic Policy Institute, 2023; McLane Middleton, 2023). A 2023 study found that 66% of Black women change their hair for a job interview, and 41% of those changed their hair from curly to straight (Dove and LinkedIn, 2023; The Official CROWN Act, 2023).

This statistic alone paints a stark picture of the compromises made before the Act’s widespread implementation. The mental and physical toll of such conformity cannot be overstated, ranging from scalp damage from relaxers to the psychological burden of suppressing one’s authentic self (McLane Middleton, 2023; The Person Beneath the Hair, 2023).

The Act reclaims daily styling as a personal right, encouraging authenticity and reducing the hidden costs of cultural assimilation.

The CROWN Act works to lessen this burden, allowing individuals to choose styles that align with their heritage and personal comfort rather than external pressures. This shift creates spaces where discussions about hair can move from judgment to appreciation, from conformity to genuine cultural exchange. It helps dismantle the societal perception that Afro-textured hair is inherently “unprofessional” or “untidy” (VinciWorks, 2024), paving the way for broader acceptance and celebration of diverse textures.

Relay

The narrative of textured hair is not static; it is a living, evolving relay of ancestral knowledge, scientific understanding, and contemporary experience. Each generation inherits traditions, adapts practices, and passes wisdom forward, always with an eye toward preserving the unique beauty and strength of Afro-textured hair. The CROWN Act stands as a critical juncture in this relay, translating historical struggles and cultural values into legal protections that reverberate through schools and workplaces, shaping future interactions with textured hair heritage.

This portrait celebrates the beauty of tightly coiled Afro texture, emphasizing ancestral heritage and self expression. The juxtaposition of shaved sides with the rounded crown highlights the dynamic possibilities within black hair traditions, embracing individuality through styling and haircare practices.

How does Legal Protection Honor Historical Hair Practices?

For centuries, the hair of Black individuals has been a site of both profound cultural expression and systemic oppression. From the 1786 Tignon Laws in Louisiana, which forced free Black women to cover their elaborately styled hair, to the “Comb Test” used post-slavery to deny entry based on hair texture, the policing of Black hair served as a tool of control and dehumanization (Halo Collective, 2024; Don’t touch my hair!, 2022). These historical acts aimed to strip individuals of their identity and connection to their heritage (Don’t touch my hair!, 2022).

The CROWN Act directly counters this long history by expanding the legal definition of race to encompass hair texture and protective styles (Economic Policy Institute, 2023). This legal expansion recognizes that discrimination based on hair is, in essence, race-based discrimination, closing a loophole that allowed employers and schools to target Black individuals (Economic Policy Institute, 2023). By protecting styles like braids, locs, twists, and Afros, the Act affirms their status as expressions of cultural identity and ancestral connection (The Official CROWN Act, 2023). For example, the case of Chastity Jones, a Black woman whose job offer was rescinded in 2013 because she refused to cut her locs, illustrates the very real career obstacles faced.

While initial rulings sided with the employer, citing locs as a “mutable characteristic,” the CROWN Act aims to prevent such discriminatory actions moving forward by codifying protections for these styles (JSTOR Daily, 2019; Economic Policy Institute, 2023). This legislative action provides a framework for challenging biases, ensuring that the unique characteristics of Afro-textured hair are no longer grounds for exclusion.

Bathed in light and shadow, the woman's portrait captures the essence of natural textured hair. Her braided crown transforms into unbound coils, symbolizing freedom and heritage. This intimate study reflects self-expression, cultural pride, and the transformative power of authentic coil styling.

How does the CROWN Act Impact Professional Environments and Educational Spaces?

The influence of the CROWN Act extends into the daily fabric of professional and academic life, working to dismantle entrenched biases. Studies before the widespread adoption of the CROWN Act highlighted significant disparities ❉ Black women’s hair was 2.5 times as likely to be perceived as “unprofessional” compared to white women’s hair (The Official CROWN Act, 2023). Moreover, a staggering 20% of Black women between the ages of 25 and 34 had been sent home from work due to their hair (Economic Policy Institute, 2023).

In schools, the impact on young Black girls is particularly stark, with 53% of Black mothers reporting their daughters experienced racial discrimination based on hairstyles as early as five years old, and 66% of Black children in majority-white schools facing such discrimination (The Official CROWN Act, 2023). These experiences, often leading to missed instructional time or disciplinary actions, disrupted educational journeys and instilled feelings of othering (Legal Defense Fund, 2024).

The CROWN Act aims to rectify these systemic issues by creating a legal shield. In states where it is enacted, employers and schools cannot enforce policies that unfairly target natural hair textures or protective styles (Law Offices of Kell A. Simon, 2025). This means students like 9-year-old Ava Russell, who was sent home for wearing her curls down, or Deandre Arnold, prevented from his high school graduation due to his locs, would now have legal recourse (Economic Policy Institute, 2023).

The legislation supports not only legal challenges against discriminatory practices but also fosters an environment where diversity in hair expression is explicitly welcomed, contributing to a more inclusive atmosphere (Law Offices of Kell A. Simon, 2025). This shift moves beyond mere tolerance to a genuine respect for the cultural significance and heritage expressed through textured hair, allowing individuals to show up authentically without fear of reprisal.

The Act paves a path for greater acceptance, encouraging a more diverse and respectful environment where ancestral pride is valued.

The psychological relief of knowing one’s appearance is protected can be immense, reducing the pressure to conform and allowing mental energy to be redirected toward academic or professional pursuits rather than self-consciousness. It encourages a deeper connection to self and heritage, reinforcing the idea that one’s authentic self is not a barrier to success, but a source of strength.

Reflection

A strand of hair, in its intricate coil or sweeping curve, carries within it a universe of meaning. It whispers of origins on ancient plains, echoes the resilience of those who endured profound ruptures, and sings of vibrant cultural expressions passed through generations. The CROWN Act, in its legislative reach, steps into this ongoing saga, offering a powerful articulation of a truth long understood by those who wear textured hair ❉ this is more than adornment; it is a declaration of existence, a living connection to a profound heritage. Its very existence acknowledges the pain of past exclusions, the quiet strength of resistance, and the enduring beauty of identity.

As this legal affirmation spreads, it cultivates environments where children can learn, and adults can work, free from the burden of policing their natural selves. The ‘Soul of a Strand’ whispers that each curl, each loc, each braid is a testament to survival, an ongoing celebration, and a clear vision for a future where heritage is not just tolerated, but truly honored.

References

  • Afriklens. (2024, November 1). African Hairstyles ❉ Cultural Significance and Legacy.
  • Caffrey, C. (2023). Afro-textured hair. EBSCO Research Starters.
  • colleen. (2020, August 28). The History of Textured Hair.
  • Creative Support. (2022, September 15). The History of Black Hair.
  • Dabiri, E. (2020). Twisted ❉ The Tangled History of Black Hair Culture. Harper Perennial.
  • Don’t touch my hair! ❉ A guide to investigating race-based hair discrimination. (2022, October 25).
  • Dove and LinkedIn. (2023). 2023 CROWN Workplace Research Study.
  • Economic Policy Institute. (2023, July 26). The CROWN Act ❉ A jewel for combating racial discrimination in the workplace and classroom.
  • Forbes. (2022, July 24). 4c Hair Discrimination ❉ An Exploration Of Texturism.
  • Halo Collective. (2024). End Hair Discrimination.
  • JSTOR Daily. (2019, July 3). How Natural Black Hair at Work Became a Civil Rights Issue.
  • Know Your Hairitage. (2023). African Beauty & CULTURE.
  • Law Offices of Kell A. Simon. (2025, June 5). What is the CROWN Act and its impact?
  • Legal Defense Fund. (2024). Hair Discrimination FAQ.
  • McLane Middleton. (2023, April 19). Understanding Hair Discrimination and the CROWN Act.
  • Refinery29. (2021, February 23). The Evolution Of The Natural Hair Movement.
  • The Official CROWN Act. (2023). The CROWN Act.
  • The Person Beneath the Hair ❉ Hair Discrimination, Health, and Well-Being. (2023, August 2). PMC.
  • VinciWorks. (2024, December 20). Guide – Hair Discrimination.
  • Wikipedia. (2022). Discrimination based on hair texture.

Glossary

textured hair

Meaning ❉ Textured hair describes the natural hair structure characterized by its unique curl patterns, ranging from expansive waves to closely wound coils, a common trait across individuals of Black and mixed heritage.

crown act

Meaning ❉ The CROWN Act establishes legal protections against discrimination based on hair texture and styles frequently worn by individuals of Black or mixed heritage.

creative support

Ancestral compounds supported textured hair by providing deep moisture, strength, and protection, grounded in centuries of heritage wisdom.

afro-textured hair

Meaning ❉ Afro-Textured Hair signifies a distinct coiling pattern, embodying profound ancestral heritage, cultural identity, and enduring resilience.

economic policy institute

Meaning ❉ School Policy, in the context of textured hair, represents institutional norms and regulations impacting identity, cultural expression, and well-being.

protective styles

Meaning ❉ Protective Styles are hair configurations that shield delicate strands from environmental and mechanical stress, rooted in ancestral practices of textured hair care.

styling practices

Meaning ❉ Styling Practices define the deliberate shaping and adornment of hair, reflecting deep cultural heritage and personal identity for textured hair.

official crown

Meaning ❉ The CROWN Act History traces legislative efforts to protect individuals from discrimination based on textured hair and protective styles, honoring ancestral heritage.

policy institute

Meaning ❉ School Policy, in the context of textured hair, represents institutional norms and regulations impacting identity, cultural expression, and well-being.

black women

Meaning ❉ Black Women, through their textured hair, embody a living heritage of ancestral wisdom, cultural resilience, and profound identity.

hair texture

Meaning ❉ Hair Texture is the inherent shape and curl pattern of a hair strand, profoundly reflecting its genetic heritage and cultural significance.

black hair

Meaning ❉ Black Hair, within Roothea's living library, signifies a profound heritage of textured strands, deeply intertwined with ancestral wisdom, cultural identity, and enduring resilience.

economic policy

Meaning ❉ School Policy, in the context of textured hair, represents institutional norms and regulations impacting identity, cultural expression, and well-being.

hair discrimination

Meaning ❉ Hair Discrimination, a subtle yet impactful bias, refers to the differential and often unfavorable treatment of individuals based on the natural characteristics or chosen styles of their hair, especially those textures and forms historically worn by Black and mixed-race persons.