How does the CROWN Act connect to the cultural heritage of Black hair?

Roots

When we consider the deep-seated journey of textured hair, particularly within Black and mixed-race lineages, we touch upon something far older than any statute or legal framework. It is a story etched into the very helix of our being, a legacy carried through generations. The CROWN Act, in its modern legislative form, does not simply appear in a vacuum; it arises from centuries of ancestral practices, profound cultural meaning, and the enduring resilience of Black hair. It is a recognition, long overdue, of a heritage that has been both celebrated and systematically suppressed.

To truly grasp the CROWN Act’s connection to this heritage, one must first feel the resonance of our hair’s elemental biology and ancient practices, echoes from the source itself. Textured hair, with its unique curl patterns and structural characteristics, carries a distinct genetic signature, a testament to its origins in diverse African climates and environments. These coils and kinks, spirals and waves, are not deviations from a norm; they are expressions of a rich genetic diversity, each strand a testament to adaptation and strength. The varied anatomy of textured hair, from its elliptical follicle shape to its distinct cuticle layers, gives rise to its incredible versatility and beauty, yet also its particular needs for care and protection.

From the earliest civilizations on the African continent, hair was far more than a mere aesthetic choice; it was a living archive, a canvas for communication, a spiritual conduit. In ancient African societies, hairstyles conveyed a wealth of information ❉ a person’s age, marital status, tribal affiliation, social standing, wealth, and even their spiritual beliefs. Elaborate braids, coils, and adornments spoke volumes without a single word.

For instance, among the Yoruba people, hair, particularly the crown of the head, was seen as the most elevated part of the body, a sacred point of entry for spiritual energy, where braided styles could send messages to deities. The time spent in styling was not just about beauty; it was a communal ritual, a moment for bonding, for sharing stories, and for transferring ancestral knowledge across generations.

The forced transatlantic passage shattered many of these communal hair practices, as enslaved Africans were often subjected to head shaving upon arrival, a brutal act designed to strip them of identity, culture, and connection to their homelands. Yet, even in the face of such dehumanization, the spirit of hair heritage persisted. Enslaved people found ingenious ways to preserve aspects of their traditions, using whatever was available—bacon grease, butter, or even kerosene as conditioners, and sheep fleece carding tools as combs.

Cornrows, a style originating in Africa, became a covert form of communication, with patterns used to map escape routes or smuggle seeds for survival. This resilience in maintaining hair practices, even in secret, speaks volumes about the enduring significance of hair as a marker of identity and resistance.

The deep roots of textured hair heritage lie in ancient African practices where hair served as a profound communicator of identity, status, and spiritual connection.

How Did Historical Laws Suppress Black Hair Heritage?

The legacy of oppression did not end with slavery. Discriminatory practices continued to police Black hair, particularly as free Black women in the South began to style their hair in ways that challenged the prevailing Eurocentric beauty standards. The Tignon Law of 1786 in Louisiana stands as a stark historical example.

This law mandated that Black women, whether enslaved or free, cover their hair with a knotted head wrap, or tignon, as a visual marker of their supposed inferior status. Yet, even in this act of forced conformity, Black women found ways to reclaim their agency, adorning their tignons with vibrant fabrics and jewels, transforming a symbol of subjugation into a statement of defiant beauty and cultural pride.

The early 20th century saw the widespread adoption of chemical straighteners and hot combs, tools that, while offering new styling possibilities, also pushed many towards Eurocentric ideals of beauty as a means of social and economic assimilation. The concept of “good hair,” often defined as straighter and softer textures, became a social currency, impacting opportunities for employment and advancement. This pressure to conform, to alter one’s inherent hair texture, was a direct assault on the heritage of Black hair, creating a complex internal struggle within communities.

The CROWN Act directly addresses this historical trajectory of hair discrimination. It stands as a legal affirmation that the right to wear one’s hair in its natural, unaltered state or in protective styles such as braids, locs, twists, or Bantu knots, is a civil right, protected from discriminatory practices in workplaces and schools. It is a legislative acknowledgment that hair is not merely a personal choice but a deeply intertwined aspect of racial identity and cultural heritage.

Ritual

Stepping into the realm of hair rituals is to step into a space where ancestral wisdom meets the rhythm of daily life. For those with textured hair, particularly within Black and mixed-race communities, hair care has always been more than a routine; it is a ceremony, a moment of connection, a tender thread that links us to generations past. The practices we observe today, from cleansing and conditioning to styling and protection, carry echoes of ancient traditions, adapted and preserved through centuries. The CROWN Act, in its modern application, safeguards the freedom to practice these rituals without fear of reprisal, honoring the living traditions that shape our experience of textured hair heritage.

The art of textured hair styling is a testament to creativity and deep knowledge passed down through familial lines and communal gatherings. From the foundational techniques of detangling and moisturizing to the intricate patterns of protective styles, each step is rooted in an understanding of hair’s unique needs and its cultural significance. Historically, these styling sessions were not solitary acts but communal events, often taking hours or even days, serving as vital opportunities for storytelling, mentorship, and social bonding. Children learned from elders, absorbing not only the technical skills but also the narratives and values associated with their hair.

What Ancestral Practices Guide Modern Hair Care?

Many modern hair care regimens draw directly from ancestral practices, even if the tools and ingredients have evolved. The emphasis on moisture retention, scalp health, and protective styling can be traced back to African traditions where natural butters, herbs, and oils were used to maintain hair vitality.

• Shea Butter ❉ A foundational ingredient in many African communities, used for its moisturizing and protective properties, guarding hair against environmental elements.
• African Black Soap ❉ Traditionally used for cleansing the body and hair, known for its gentle yet effective purifying qualities.
• Natural Oils ❉ Coconut oil, avocado oil, and various herbal infusions were applied to nourish the scalp and hair, promoting strength and sheen.
• Protective Braiding ❉ Styles like cornrows, braids, and twists were not just decorative; they shielded the hair from damage, retained moisture, and prevented breakage, practices still central to textured hair care today.

These practices were not merely about appearance; they were about preserving hair health, signifying belonging, and expressing identity in societies where hair held profound social and spiritual weight. The CROWN Act provides a shield for these heritage-inspired styles, affirming that braids, locs, and twists, once symbols of resistance and ingenuity in the face of oppression, are legitimate expressions of self in contemporary society.

Contemporary textured hair rituals are living archives of ancestral practices, emphasizing protective styling and natural ingredients for holistic hair wellness.

How do Protective Styles Connect to Identity and Preservation?

Protective styles stand as a powerful connection to heritage. They are a practical art form that has persisted through time, adapting yet retaining its core purpose. During enslavement, these styles were a matter of survival, not just for the hair itself, but as a means of cultural preservation and covert communication. Today, they continue to serve as a means of preserving hair health by minimizing manipulation and exposure to external stressors, while simultaneously offering a profound expression of cultural pride.

The journey of wigs and hair extensions also holds a nuanced place within this heritage. While often associated with modern beauty trends, the use of hair adornments and extensions dates back to ancient African civilizations, where they were used for ceremonial purposes, to signify status, or to enhance natural styles. In the diaspora, they sometimes served as a means of conforming to Eurocentric beauty standards, yet they also offered versatility and creative expression. The CROWN Act, by protecting natural hair and styles, indirectly supports the freedom to choose, acknowledging that self-expression through hair should not be policed, whether it involves one’s natural texture or an extension that complements it.

Even the nighttime sanctuary, with its essential sleep protection, carries a historical resonance. The use of headwraps and bonnets, often seen today as practical tools for preserving hairstyles and moisture, traces its lineage back to the practical and ceremonial uses of head coverings in Africa and the diaspora. These coverings offered protection from the elements, signified status, and, during periods of oppression, provided a means of concealing hair that was deemed “unruly” or “unprofessional” by dominant society. The wisdom of protecting one’s hair at night, therefore, is not merely a modern wellness tip but a continuation of ancestral practices designed to maintain hair health and dignity.

Relay

To consider the CROWN Act’s most profound connection to the cultural heritage of Black hair is to peer into the very soul of identity, resilience, and societal transformation. It is here, in this deeper exploration, that we grasp how legislative action can both honor a rich past and shape a more equitable future for textured hair. The Act is not merely a legal document; it is a powerful declaration that challenges centuries of systemic bias, affirming the inherent dignity of Black and mixed-race hair as a cornerstone of personal and collective heritage.

The interplay of biology, psychology, and social constructs has historically rendered textured hair a site of struggle. Scientific understanding of hair diversity, while growing, has often been overshadowed by societal preferences rooted in Eurocentric beauty standards. This preference has led to the devaluation of coily, kinky, and tightly curled textures, often labeling them as “unprofessional,” “messy,” or “unruly”. Such perceptions have not only impacted self-perception within Black communities but have also translated into tangible barriers in education and employment.

How does the CROWN Act Address Historical Hair Discrimination?

The CROWN Act stands as a direct response to a long history of hair discrimination that has affected Black individuals in schools and workplaces. Prior to this legislation, existing civil rights laws, while prohibiting race-based discrimination, often did not explicitly extend protection to phenotypical markers such as hair texture or protective styles. This omission created a loophole, allowing for policies and practices that, while seemingly neutral, disproportionately impacted Black people. The Act expands the definition of race to include these natural hair textures and styles, thereby closing this loophole and providing a legal recourse against such bias.

A poignant historical example that powerfully illuminates the deep connection between hair discrimination and the need for the CROWN Act is the case of Renata Hill and Brittany Noble Jones. While the Rogers v. American Airlines (1981) case is frequently cited for its challenge to cornrow bans, more recent incidents underscore the ongoing nature of this discrimination even decades later. Renata Hill, a news anchor, was reportedly fired in 2017 after refusing to change her natural hairstyle, a style she had worn for years without issue (Hill, 2024).

Similarly, Brittany Noble Jones, a former news anchor, alleged in 2018 that she was told her natural hair was “unprofessional” and that she needed to wear it straight, ultimately leading to her dismissal (Hill, 2024). These contemporary instances, alongside the legacy of cases like Rogers, highlight the persistent and pervasive nature of hair discrimination in professional settings, demonstrating why a specific legislative remedy like the CROWN Act became not just desirable, but truly necessary.

The CROWN Act represents a legislative acknowledgment that the freedom to wear one’s natural hair is an essential component of racial and cultural liberty.

The societal implications of hair discrimination are far-reaching, extending beyond individual instances of bias. Research has consistently shown the tangible effects. A 2023 CROWN Workplace Research Study revealed that Black Women’s Hair is 2.5 Times More Likely to Be Perceived as Unprofessional. Furthermore, approximately two-thirds (66%) of Black women reported changing their hair for a job interview, with 41% altering their hair from curly to straight.

This data speaks to a deeply ingrained pressure to conform, often at the expense of one’s authentic self and cultural heritage. The CROWN Act seeks to dismantle these invisible yet powerful barriers, creating spaces where individuals are judged on their capabilities, not on the texture of their hair.

What is the Cultural Impact of Legal Hair Protection?

The cultural impact of the CROWN Act is profound. It validates the diverse forms of Black hair, from locs that carry spiritual and historical weight to Bantu knots that speak to ancient African beauty practices, affirming their place in all public spheres. This legal protection sends a clear message that ancestral styles and natural textures are not merely “trends” but cherished elements of a living heritage, deserving of respect and celebration.

The Act also plays a role in shifting perceptions of professionalism, which have historically been tethered to Eurocentric aesthetics. By legally safeguarding natural hair, it challenges the notion that only straight hair is “neat” or “acceptable,” paving the way for a more inclusive and accurate understanding of beauty and presentation. This shift is not just about appearances; it is about fostering environments where Black and mixed-race individuals can exist authentically, reducing the psychological burden of code-switching and self-alteration.

The CROWN Act is a significant step in the ongoing journey towards racial equity. It recognizes that hair discrimination is racial discrimination, directly linked to a history of attempting to erase or devalue Black identity. By providing legal recourse, it empowers individuals to reclaim their crowns, to wear their heritage with pride, and to contribute their full selves to society without compromise. It is a testament to the enduring power of hair as a symbol of identity, resistance, and ancestral memory.

1. Black Power Movement ❉ In the 1960s and 70s, the Afro became a powerful symbol of Black pride and a political statement against Eurocentric beauty standards, asserting a collective identity and rejecting assimilation.
2. Natural Hair Movement (2000s) ❉ A resurgence driven by social media and a desire for healthier hair practices, encouraging the embrace of natural textures and protective styles, leading to a cultural shift away from chemical straighteners.
3. Legislative Action ❉ The CROWN Act, first passed in California in 2019, represents a modern legislative effort to codify protections against race-based hair discrimination, recognizing natural hair and protective styles as integral to racial identity and heritage.

Reflection

The journey of textured hair, from the deep past of ancestral lands to the contemporary landscape of legal protections, is a profound meditation on identity, resilience, and the spirit of a people. The CROWN Act, standing as a beacon in this journey, does not merely address an issue of appearance; it honors a heritage that has been carried, shaped, and celebrated through generations. It is a recognition that the strands of Black and mixed-race hair are not simply biological fibers, but living archives, holding stories of survival, artistry, and unwavering cultural pride.

This Act serves as a vital affirmation that the right to wear one’s hair as it naturally grows, or in styles born of deep tradition, is a fundamental aspect of self-expression and belonging. In a world yearning for authenticity, the CROWN Act helps to ensure that every crown, in its natural glory, is seen, respected, and welcomed, allowing the soul of each strand to truly shine, unbounded and free.

References

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• Banks, I. (2000). Hair Matters ❉ Beauty, Power, and the Politics of Hair. New York University Press.
• Patton, T. O. (2006). African American Hair as an Expression of Identity and Culture. Hampton Press.
• Jackson, R. L. (2006). Scripting the Black Masculine Body ❉ Identity, Discourse, and Racial Politics in Sport and Popular Culture. State University of New York Press.
• Mercer, K. (1994). Welcome to the Jungle ❉ New Positions in Black Cultural Studies. Routledge.
• White, S. (2019). The Natural Hair Handbook ❉ A Guide to Natural Hair Care for Black Women. Self-published.
• Ebony, P. (2016). Hair Love ❉ A Celebration of Black Hair. CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform.
• Hunter, M. (2011). Buying Racial Justice ❉ Fairness, Freedom, and Affiliation from W. E. B. Du Bois to Barack Obama. Princeton University Press.
• Russell, K. Wilson, M. & Hall, R. E. (1992). The Color Complex ❉ The Politics of Skin Color in Black and White America. Anchor Books.
• Hill, D. (2024). Rhetoric of Natural Hair ❉ Cultural Contradictions. Advances in Applied Sociology, 14, 504-516.