How does hair connect us to our heritage?

Roots

Walk with us, for a moment, to a place where the wind carries whispers of ancestral drums, where sunlight catches in spirals of deepest brown and midnight black. This is where the story of hair begins, not as a mere biological filament, but as a living archive, a direct connection to heritage. For those with textured hair, this connection runs deeper than epidermis, coursing through the very helix of their being. It’s a lineage inscribed in every coil, every wave, a silent testament to journeys across continents and generations, to resilience forged in fire and celebration sung in whispers.

From the ancient African continent, where hairstyles spoke volumes of a person’s life, to the diaspora’s ongoing reassertion of identity, hair serves as a profound link, anchoring individuals to their collective past. This physical aspect becomes a spiritual anchor, a tangible thread binding present lives to those who came before. It is a dialogue between the biological inheritance and the cultural legacy, a conversation carried on the scalp, inviting us to listen closely to its narratives.

Hair, particularly textured hair, acts as a living chronicle of identity, a deep connection to ancestral journeys, and a testament to enduring cultural resilience.

The Textured Hair Codex Foundations

To truly understand how hair connects us to our heritage, we must begin with its foundational elements, a careful study of its very structure and how this physical makeup has been perceived and categorized throughout history. Textured hair, spanning curls, coils, and kinks, is not a monolith; rather, it represents a remarkable spectrum of biological variation. The intricate anatomical distinctions of these hair types, often shaped by millennia of environmental adaptation, contribute to their unique characteristics. Hair, at its elemental core, is a protein filament primarily composed of keratin.

However, the shape of the follicle from which it grows dictates the hair’s curl pattern. A flatter, more oval-shaped follicle yields curlier hair, while a rounder follicle tends to produce straighter strands. This biological reality, while universal, manifests in a diverse range of textures across different populations, with genetic factors playing a significant role in determining these variations across different ethnic backgrounds. For example, studies suggest different genes influence hair texture and thickness in various populations, with specific gene variations linked to hair texture in people of Northern European ancestry or thickness in Asian populations (MedlinePlus, 2022).

The language we employ to describe textured hair often carries its own historical weight, reflecting societal perceptions that have, at times, been far removed from scientific objectivity. Early attempts at classification, some with deeply troubling origins, sought to categorize hair based on its “proximity to whiteness” (Donaldson, 2021). One of the earliest hair typing systems, for instance, was developed in 1908 by Eugen Fischer, a German Nazi scientist who used a “hair gauge” to classify Namibians’ hair texture to determine their “Blackness” (Donaldson, 2021).

This disturbing past casts a long shadow, reminding us that even scientific pursuits can be tainted by the biases of their time. Today, while systems like the Andre Walker hair typing chart are widely used for hair care, the historical context of such classifications remains a critical lens through which to understand ongoing issues of texturism and hair discrimination (Donaldson, 2021; Shepherd, 2018).

From Follicle to Fabric ❉ An Ancestral Scientific View of Hair Physiology

Considering the elemental biology of textured hair through an ancestral lens reveals how its structural characteristics evolved to meet specific environmental demands. Early hominids in Africa, exposed to intense ultraviolet radiation from the sun, developed afro-textured hair, believed to be an adaptation for head protection. Its spiraled structure and wider follicular pattern might have allowed more air to pass through, providing a cooling effect for the scalp (Caffrey, 2023). This inherent protective quality points to hair not merely as an aesthetic feature, but as a biological shield, a testament to deep ancestral wisdom embedded within our very cells.

The hair shaft itself, composed of a cuticle, cortex, and medulla, varies in its morphology across different hair textures. Coiled strands, for instance, often possess a flatter, elliptical cross-section, contributing to their spring-like elasticity and tendency to shrink. This characteristic shrinkage, a unique property of afro-textured hair, also affects its moisture retention, necessitating specialized care to maintain its health and hydration (Caffrey, 2023).

Understanding hair growth cycles—anagen (growing), catagen (transition), and telogen (resting)—is also integral. While these cycles are universal, ancestral practices often aligned with supporting optimal growth and minimizing breakage, recognizing the particular needs of textured hair. This deep connection to hair’s physical properties underscores the interplay between genetics, environment, and cultural care practices that have shaped hair heritage over millennia.

Keratin ❉ The fibrous protein that constitutes the primary building block of hair, determining its strength and elasticity.

Follicle Shape ❉ The form of the hair follicle beneath the scalp, which directly dictates the curvature of the hair strand as it grows.

Shrinkage ❉ The phenomenon where textured hair appears significantly shorter when dry than its actual length, due to its coiling pattern.

Ritual

The connection between hair and heritage truly comes alive in the realm of ritual—those deliberate, often communal acts of care and styling that have been passed down through generations. These practices are more than mere grooming; they are living testaments to cultural identity, communal bonds, and a deep reverence for the strands that crown us. From pre-colonial African societies to the adaptive expressions of the diaspora, how hair is cared for and adorned speaks volumes about a people’s journey. It embodies a rich history of adaptation, resistance, and self-expression, reflecting how communities have navigated diverse cultural environments while holding fast to their roots.

Rituals of hair care and styling, rooted in shared heritage, serve as powerful expressions of cultural identity and continuity across generations.

Styling as Cultural Language How Have Traditional Styling Techniques Preserved Heritage?

In pre-colonial Africa, hairstyles served as a complex visual language, conveying information about one’s age, marital status, social rank, ethnic identity, religion, and even their geographic origin (Oforiwa, 2023; Tharps & Byrd, 2001; Oforiwa, 2023; Creative Support, 2022; Omotos, 2018; Byrd & Tharps, 2001). For example, a woman’s hair styled in braids or cornrows might indicate her single status, while loose or covered styles signaled marriage (Oforiwa, 2023). Hairstyling was often a communal activity, strengthening familial and community bonds as mothers, daughters, and friends gathered to braid hair (Care, 2025). Skilled braiders held respected positions within society, weaving intricate designs that were not merely aesthetic choices but deeply symbolic expressions (Oforiwa, 2023; Assendelft, 2021).

The Yoruba culture, for instance, crafted hairstyles with deep spiritual significance (Oforiwa, 2023; Oforiwa, 2024). These traditional styles, such as cornrows, Fulani braids, and Bantu knots, have historical origins embedded in African history and have traveled across continents, adapting and persisting within the diaspora (Care, 2025; Da Costa, 2022).

The forced removal of hair during the transatlantic slave trade was a deliberate act of dehumanization and cultural erasure, intended to sever enslaved Africans’ ties to their homelands and identities (Kilburn & Strode, 2021; Library of Congress, 2021; Creative Support, 2022; Thrifts & Tangles, 2021; Noireônaturel, 2024). Yet, even under such brutal conditions, individuals found ways to resist. Enslaved people used cornrows to hide rice seeds as a means of survival and to create coded maps for escape routes (BLAM UK CIC, 2022; Odele Beauty, 2021; Noireônaturel, 2024). This act transformed hair into a tool of covert communication and rebellion, a testament to enduring spirit even in the face of immense oppression.

During the 18th century, the Tignon Laws in Louisiana forced free Black women to cover their hair in public with a knotted headscarf (tignon) to signify their perceived lower status and prevent them from appearing elegant or competing with white women (Creative Support, 2022; Odele Beauty, 2021; JSTOR Daily, 2019; Cee Cee’s Closet NYC, 2021). In a powerful act of defiance, these women adorned their tignons with vibrant fabrics, jewels, and feathers, transforming a symbol of subjugation into a statement of style and resistance (Odele Beauty, 2021; Cee Cee’s Closet NYC, 2021; Library of Congress, 2021).

• Cornrows ❉ Ancient West African braiding patterns used for signaling social status and, during slavery, as coded maps for escape (BLAM UK CIC, 2022).
• Bantu Knots ❉ A style originating from the Zulu Tribe of South Africa, where hair is sectioned and twisted to form small, coiled buns (Da Costa, 2022).
• Locs ❉ Traditionally ceremonial styles of the Maasai tribe in Kenya and Tanzania, symbolizing spiritual connection and community (Da Costa, 2022; Assendelft, 2021).

Tools of Tradition and Transformation

The tools and materials used in textured hair care have also evolved, reflecting both ancient wisdom and modern innovation. Pre-colonial African communities used natural materials like clay, oils, herbs, and plant extracts to nourish and protect hair (Oforiwa, 2023; Care, 2025). They also developed combs, pins, and razors to shape and cut hair (Oforiwa, 2023). These traditional tools and ingredients, often centered on moisturizing and scalp health, lay the foundation for contemporary natural hair care principles (Care, 2025).

The 19th and early 20th centuries saw the rise of tools and products designed to chemically or thermally straighten textured hair, often driven by Eurocentric beauty standards (Kilburn & Strode, 2021; Library of Congress, 2021; Care, 2025). Madam C.J. Walker, a pioneering African-American entrepreneur, popularized the hot comb in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, offering Black women a way to straighten their hair and gain economic independence within the hair care industry (Care, 2025; Library of Congress, 2021). While these methods allowed for conformity and survival in a prejudiced society, they often came at the cost of hair damage and health (Kilburn & Strode, 2021; Library of Congress, 2021).

Relay

Hair, more than inert protein, stands as a vibrant relay of history, echoing ancestral voices and carrying the weight of collective experience. It acts as a profound communication medium, silently transmitting stories of resilience, defiance, and enduring beauty across generations. For those whose lineage winds through the Black diaspora, textured hair is a particularly powerful marker.

It embodies a legacy often shaped by both celebration and oppression, a testament to the enduring spirit of a people. The way hair is worn, styled, and cared for can speak of social standing, spiritual belief, or political protest, making it a living, breathing aspect of cultural heritage.

Hair functions as a vibrant historical relay, silently communicating collective experiences, resilience, and the enduring beauty of textured hair heritage.

Identity and the Crown How does Hair Embody Cultural Identity?

In pre-colonial African societies, hair was inextricably linked to one’s identity and status, serving as a complex identifier for individuals within their communities. Hairstyles could denote marital status, age, religion, ethnic identity, wealth, and rank (Byrd & Tharps, 2001; Jacobs-Huey, 2006; Mercer, 1994; Patton, 2006; Rooks, 1996; University of Michigan, 2006; Byrd & Tharps, 2001; Oforiwa, 2023; Creative Support, 2022; BLAM UK CIC, 2022; Omotos, 2018). A person’s family and tribe often had their own specific hairstyles, allowing observers to discern group affiliation merely by looking at the hair (Tharps, 2021; Creative Support, 2022). Elaborate styles often indicated higher social standing (Tharps, 2021; Creative Support, 2022).

The transatlantic slave trade sought to erase these deeply rooted identities by forcibly shaving the heads of newly enslaved people. This act aimed to humiliate them and sever their ties to their culture and homeland (Kilburn & Strode, 2021; Library of Congress, 2021; Creative Support, 2022; Thrifts & Tangles, 2021). Yet, through ingenuity and perseverance, enslaved individuals found ways to express individuality through their hair, using subtle braiding patterns for covert communication (Library of Congress, 2021; BLAM UK CIC, 2022; Odele Beauty, 2021). The continuity of these practices, even in the face of brutal oppression, underscores hair’s inherent power as a vessel for heritage.

The concept of “good hair,” often synonymous with straight hair, emerged in the post-emancipation era, reflecting a societal pressure to assimilate into Eurocentric beauty standards for economic and social advancement (Thrifts & Tangles, 2021). This preference for straighter textures over tightly coiled hair continues to influence perceptions of beauty and professionalism, contributing to issues of texturism (Oyedemi, 2016; Donaldson, 2021; Irizarry, 2024). Studies show that Black women with natural, afro-textured hair are sometimes perceived as less professional (Oyedemi, 2016; Irizarry, 2024). The CROWN Act, a legislative effort, aims to combat discrimination based on hair texture and styles, recognizing hair as a marker of racial status and identity (Irizarry, 2024).

1. Black is Beautiful Movement ❉ A cultural and political movement of the 1960s and 1970s that encouraged Black people to take pride in their natural hair and reject Eurocentric beauty standards (Creative Support, 2022; Odele Beauty, 2021; Thrifts & Tangles, 2021; Annie International, Inc. 2023).
2. Afro Hairstyle ❉ A volumetric style showcasing natural coils, it became a powerful symbol of Black power, pride, and resistance against oppression during the Civil Rights era (Creative Support, 2022; Odele Beauty, 2021; Thrifts & Tangles, 2021; Annie International, Inc. 2023).
3. Headwraps/Bonnets ❉ Originally worn for various cultural reasons in Africa, these became a symbol of control during slavery, then re-appropriated as a form of cultural expression and protection (Helix Hair Labs, 2023; Byrdie, 2022; Annie International, Inc. 2023; Cee Cee’s Closet NYC, 2021).

Ancestral Practices and Holistic Well-Being

The communal aspects of hair care, deeply rooted in African societies, fostered not just physical grooming but also social cohesion and spiritual connection (Oforiwa, 2023; Care, 2025). These rituals provided spaces for storytelling, shared wisdom, and the reinforcement of familial and community bonds. The care of hair was often linked to spiritual practices, with hair believed to hold magical powers and connect individuals to ancestors and the divine (Oforiwa, 2023; Dermatologist, 2023).

Modern natural hair movements, particularly since the 2000s, represent a re-emergence of these ancestral sensibilities, encouraging a return to natural hair textures and traditional care methods (Donaldson, 2021). This shift reflects a desire for holistic well-being, where hair health extends beyond physical appearance to encompass mental, emotional, and spiritual harmony. It is a conscious rejection of imposed beauty standards and a reclaiming of a deeply personal and collective heritage.

The continuous dialogue between ancient traditions and contemporary understanding allows individuals to honor the wisdom of their ancestors while navigating the complexities of modern life. This creates a powerful relay, transmitting not just techniques, but the spirit of resilience and self-acceptance that has always been central to textured hair heritage.

Reflection

Our exploration of textured hair leads us to a profound understanding ❉ hair is a living, breathing archive of heritage. Every curl, every coil, every strand carries within it the echoes of ancient practices, the whispers of ancestral voices, and the resilient spirit of generations. The journey of textured hair, from its biological roots in the African sun to its contested place in a globalized world, illustrates a profound connection to human experience. It tells a story of identity forged, lost, and reclaimed, of beauty redefined, and of wisdom passed down through touch and tradition.

The “Soul of a Strand” ethos speaks to this very truth, recognizing that each individual’s hair holds a piece of a larger, collective narrative. To understand one’s textured hair is to listen to the histories it holds, to honor the hands that cared for it through time, and to carry forward the legacy of strength and self-acceptance.