How does CROWN Act protect heritage?

Roots

To stand upon this moment, to speak of the CROWN Act and its deep connection to textured hair heritage, is to hear the whispers of countless generations. It is to acknowledge a lineage woven not merely of strands, but of stories, of resistance, of identity forged in fire and sunshine. For those of us with hair that coils, crimps, and springs from the scalp in myriad ways, this connection is not abstract; it lives in every curl, every twist, every loc.

It lives in the memory of grandmothers’ hands, in the laughter shared during braiding sessions, in the quiet strength of ancestral wisdom passed down through touch and tradition. This act, then, is not simply a legal decree; it is a recognition of this living archive, a declaration that the hair which grows from our heads is not a flaw to be corrected, but a sacred part of who we are, a testament to where we come from.

What is Textured Hair? A Heritage of Form and Function

The physical attributes of textured hair are a marvel of biological engineering, shaped over millennia to thrive in diverse environments. From the tightly coiled strands that offer natural protection from the sun’s intensity to the looser curls that allow for airflow, each variation holds a story of adaptation and resilience. Understanding this biology is to appreciate the profound connection between our physical being and the environments our ancestors navigated. Textured hair, whether categorized as coily, kinky, curly, or wavy, exhibits a unique elliptical cross-section, which contributes to its characteristic curl pattern.

This shape, unlike the rounder cross-section of straight hair, creates a natural inclination for the hair shaft to curve and spiral upon itself. The cuticle layers, those protective scales that cover each strand, also tend to be more lifted in textured hair, which can influence how moisture is retained or lost.

The CROWN Act, in its legislative text, explicitly protects against discrimination based on hair texture and styles, including Braids, Locs, Twists, and Knots. This specificity directly addresses the physical realities of textured hair and the traditional styles it naturally forms, ensuring that these inherent characteristics and their cultural expressions are shielded from prejudice. It is a legal acknowledgment of the biological truth of Black and mixed-race hair.

Ancient Echoes in Hair’s Structure

The anatomical nuances of textured hair are not just modern scientific observations; they are echoed in ancient practices. Our ancestors, without microscopes or chemical analyses, understood the properties of their hair through observation and communal wisdom. They developed methods of care and styling that honored the hair’s inherent structure, working with its natural tendencies rather than against them. The density and spring of coily hair, for instance, were recognized for their protective qualities, leading to styles that celebrated volume and intricate patterns.

The CROWN Act stands as a contemporary legal mechanism that guards the right to wear these textures and styles without fear of adverse consequences. It directly supports the continuation of heritage, allowing individuals to present themselves in ways that reflect their ancestry and the biological design of their hair, free from the historical pressure to conform to Eurocentric standards.

The CROWN Act is a legislative recognition that the natural forms of textured hair are expressions of identity and heritage, not deficits.

The Lexicon of Our Strands ❉ Language and Lineage

The language we use to describe textured hair carries historical weight. Terms like “nappy” or “kinky,” historically weaponized to denigrate Black hair, stand in stark contrast to the rich, descriptive vocabulary used within communities to celebrate its diversity. The CROWN Act challenges the very foundation of this discriminatory lexicon by rendering actions based on such negative perceptions unlawful. It asserts that the way hair grows from one’s head is not a basis for judgment or exclusion.

The act’s emphasis on protecting “natural hair” and “protective hairstyles” directly confronts the legacy of derogatory terms and the associated pressure to chemically alter hair. It validates the beauty and professionalism of hair in its natural state, a state deeply rooted in ancestral forms.

• Coily Hair ❉ Often described as having tight, small curls or zig-zag patterns, dense and voluminous.
• Curly Hair ❉ Characterized by distinct, often S-shaped curl patterns, ranging from loose waves to tighter spirals.
• Wavy Hair ❉ Displays a gentle S-pattern, less defined than curls, often with more body than straight hair.
• Locs ❉ Hair that has been matted and coiled together to form rope-like strands, a style with deep historical and spiritual connections.
• Braids ❉ A technique of interweaving three or more strands of hair, a practice with ancient African origins signifying social status and identity.

Growth Cycles and Heritage Influences

Hair growth, while a universal biological process, is also subtly influenced by factors tied to heritage, including historical environmental conditions and nutritional practices. The speed and density of hair growth can vary, and traditional diets and lifestyles of ancestral communities often supported robust hair health through nutrient-rich foods. The CROWN Act, by safeguarding the right to wear natural hair, indirectly supports a holistic approach to hair care that aligns with these ancestral wellness philosophies, reducing the need for harsh chemical treatments that historically damaged hair in the pursuit of conformity.

The historical trajectory of hair discrimination in the United States, often linked to the desire for assimilation, has had profound impacts on hair health and cultural practices. For instance, the Tignon Laws of 1786 in Louisiana mandated that free Black women cover their hair with a headscarf, or “tignon,” to visually distinguish them from white women. This legislation aimed to strip Black women of their ability to express status and beauty through elaborate hairstyles, asserting a visual social marker that placed them closer to enslaved women.

Yet, these women transformed the tignon into a statement of style and defiance, using colorful and ornate wraps, a powerful act of cultural resilience. The CROWN Act directly counters such historical impositions, affirming the right to adorn and present one’s hair without such forced concealment or alteration.

Ritual

Step into a space where the hands remember, where each comb stroke and each section parted is a continuation of practices passed down through generations. This is the realm of ritual, where the daily and celebratory care of textured hair transforms into a dialogue with the past. The CROWN Act, in its quiet power, stands as a guardian of these rituals, ensuring that the freedom to practice them is not merely a personal choice, but a protected right within societal structures. It speaks to the deep longing for continuity, for the ability to carry forward the traditions that shape our hair, and by extension, our very selves, without the shadow of judgment or exclusion.

Protective Styles ❉ An Ancestral Legacy

Protective styles, such as braids, twists, and locs, are not simply trends; they are an ancient legacy, deeply rooted in African and diasporic communities. These styles served multiple purposes across generations ❉ indicating social status, marital status, age, wealth, and even religious affiliation. Beyond their social meanings, they were also practical solutions for maintaining hair health in diverse climates and during long journeys, preserving moisture and minimizing breakage. The artistry involved in creating these styles, often a communal activity, strengthened bonds and transmitted cultural knowledge from elder to youth.

The CROWN Act directly addresses the discrimination historically faced by individuals wearing these styles in schools and workplaces. It legally affirms that these culturally significant expressions of identity are valid and acceptable, challenging the long-standing imposition of Eurocentric beauty standards that deemed such styles “unprofessional” or “unkept”. This legislative action ensures that the act of wearing a protective style, a direct link to ancestral practices, is no longer a barrier to opportunity.

Natural Styling and Definition ❉ Celebrating Inherent Beauty

The journey toward embracing natural texture and definition is a return to an ancestral understanding of hair’s inherent beauty. Before the widespread use of chemical straighteners, hair care focused on enhancing natural patterns through ingredients and techniques passed down through families. These methods aimed to nourish the hair, allowing its natural curl or coil to flourish.

The CROWN Act reinforces this return, making it safer for individuals to wear their hair in its natural state without fear of professional or educational repercussions. It counters the historical pressure to chemically alter hair for assimilation, a practice that gained traction in the 19th and 20th centuries as a means to social and economic advancement in a society that favored Eurocentric beauty standards. By removing the threat of discrimination, the act empowers individuals to celebrate their natural hair, honoring the genetic legacy of their strands.

The CROWN Act enables a resurgence of ancestral hair care practices, removing barriers to self-expression.

Tools of Tradition and Transformation

The tools used in textured hair care also hold cultural significance. From ancient combs crafted from natural materials to modern innovations, each tool serves a purpose in maintaining and styling hair. Traditional African societies used combs, pins, and razors, and communal grooming was a social activity.

The evolution of these tools, including the hot comb popularized by Madam C.J. Walker and Annie Turnbo Malone in the early 20th century, also reflects a complex history of adapting to societal pressures while building economic independence within Black communities.

The CROWN Act ensures that whether one chooses to wear natural hair, protective styles, or even hair that has been temporarily altered, the choice is protected. It recognizes that hair is a deeply personal aspect of identity, and the tools and techniques used to care for it are part of a broader cultural narrative.

How Does the CROWN Act Protect the Evolution of Styling Practices?

The CROWN Act safeguards the freedom for individuals to choose styling practices that align with their heritage, without fear of prejudice. This protection extends to the natural evolution of styles, recognizing that heritage is not static but a living, breathing tradition that adapts and grows. It means that whether someone chooses to wear a traditional Bantu knot, a modern twist-out, or another style that speaks to their identity, they are protected from adverse action.

This legislative backing provides a foundation for cultural continuity, allowing new generations to adapt and reinterpret ancestral styles without facing systemic barriers. It also addresses the mental and emotional toll of hair discrimination, where Black individuals often feel pressure to chemically straighten their hair to avoid discrimination, impacting their self-perception and mental well-being.

Relay

How does the CROWN Act, a contemporary legal instrument, truly bridge the chasm of historical injustices and stand as a relay baton passed from the hands of our ancestors to those shaping the future? This section seeks to unravel the deeper layers of this connection, moving beyond surface-level understanding to examine the act’s profound societal, psychological, and cultural impact, all rooted in the enduring heritage of textured hair. It invites a contemplation of how this legislation, while seemingly modern, is in essence a continuation of a centuries-long struggle for self-determination and recognition.

The Holistic Resonance of Hair Health and Heritage

Holistic hair care, for many, is not a new concept but a return to ancestral wisdom. Long before commercial products dominated the market, African communities practiced a comprehensive approach to hair wellness, viewing hair as an extension of the self and a conduit to spiritual connection. Ingredients sourced from the earth—like shea butter, various plant oils, and herbal infusions—were used not just for cosmetic appeal but for their restorative and protective properties. These practices were often communal, fostering bonds and passing down knowledge through generations.

The CROWN Act, by protecting the right to wear natural hair and traditional styles, implicitly encourages a return to these holistic practices. When individuals are no longer pressured to chemically alter their hair to conform to external standards, they are free to choose care regimens that truly nourish their hair and scalp, aligning with methods that have sustained hair health across centuries. This freedom allows for a more authentic expression of self, one that is deeply connected to inherited wisdom and the well-being of the whole person.

• Shea Butter ❉ A traditional African emollient, rich in vitamins, used for centuries to moisturize and protect hair and skin.
• Coconut Oil ❉ A versatile oil, historically used in various cultures for hair conditioning and strengthening.
• Aloe Vera ❉ Valued for its soothing and healing properties for the scalp, a plant used in many traditional wellness practices.
• Chebe Powder ❉ A Chadian hair treatment, known for its ability to strengthen hair and promote length retention, rooted in specific African traditions.

Nighttime Sanctuary ❉ Preserving Strands and Stories

The ritual of nighttime hair protection, particularly the use of bonnets and head coverings, is a practice deeply intertwined with the preservation of textured hair health and cultural heritage. This practice, often dismissed or misunderstood in broader society, safeguards delicate hair from friction, moisture loss, and tangling during sleep, thereby preventing breakage and promoting length retention. Its historical roots can be traced to various forms of head coverings worn across African and diasporic communities, serving purposes ranging from spiritual observance to practical hair maintenance.

The CROWN Act, while not directly legislating nighttime wear, supports the ecosystem of care that makes these practices relevant. When natural styles are affirmed during the day, the need for protective nighttime rituals becomes even more significant for maintaining those styles and the health of the hair. This legislative support creates a space where these intimate, heritage-based practices are not seen as something to hide, but as a normal and respected aspect of self-care.

How Does Hair Discrimination Persist and How Does the CROWN Act Counteract It?

Despite advancements, hair discrimination remains a pervasive issue, often rooted in deeply ingrained biases that equate Eurocentric hair textures with professionalism and acceptability. This discrimination manifests in various settings, from schools where children as young as four face disciplinary action for their natural hair to workplaces where Black women are disproportionately told their hair is “unprofessional”. A 2020 study by Duke University and Michigan State University found that Black women with natural hairstyles are perceived as less professional and less likely to be recommended for job interviews than candidates with straight hair. This highlights a systemic bias that impacts economic and educational opportunities.

The CROWN Act directly counters this historical and contemporary discrimination by explicitly prohibiting discrimination based on hair texture and protective hairstyles associated with race. It seeks to close a loophole in existing civil rights legislation that often failed to protect individuals from hair-based bias, arguing that hair choices are often inextricably linked to racial and cultural identity. By doing so, the act transforms a site of historical oppression into a protected characteristic, allowing individuals to fully express their heritage without fear of losing opportunities.

The CROWN Act functions as a shield, allowing individuals to maintain and display their textured hair heritage without facing systemic prejudice.

A powerful example of this persistent discrimination, which the CROWN Act directly addresses, is the case of Chasity Jones. In 2010, Ms. Jones had a job offer rescinded by Catastrophe Management Solutions in Alabama after she refused to cut her locs, which the company deemed a violation of their grooming policy. The Eleventh Circuit Court of Appeals, in a highly criticized ruling, upheld the employer’s right to do so, stating that locs, as a “mutable characteristic,” were not protected under Title VII of the Civil Rights Act of 1964, which prohibits discrimination based on immutable racial characteristics.

This ruling underscored the legal vulnerability of natural hairstyles. The CROWN Act directly repudiates such interpretations, asserting that hairstyles linked to racial identity, whether deemed mutable or not, warrant protection, thereby safeguarding cultural expression. This legislative action directly responds to decades of legal battles that often failed to recognize hair discrimination as a form of racial bias.

Solving Hair Challenges with Ancestral Wisdom and Modern Insight

Addressing common textured hair challenges—like dryness, breakage, or scalp conditions—benefits from a dual approach that respects ancestral wisdom while incorporating modern scientific understanding. Traditional communities developed remedies using local botanicals and passed down techniques for gentle detangling and moisture retention. Contemporary science can validate the efficacy of many of these traditional ingredients and offer deeper insights into hair’s molecular needs.

The CROWN Act’s protection creates a climate where individuals can prioritize the health of their natural hair, choosing methods that align with their heritage rather than resorting to damaging processes driven by discriminatory pressures. This confluence of ancestral knowledge and scientific understanding allows for a truly personalized and effective approach to hair care, one that honors the past while building a healthier future for textured hair.

Reflection

As the final echoes of this exploration settle, we are left with a deeper appreciation for the profound connection between the CROWN Act and the living, breathing archive of textured hair heritage. It is more than a legal document; it is a testament to resilience, a beacon for self-acceptance, and a promise of continuity. The journey of textured hair, from its elemental biology and ancient care practices to its contemporary expressions, is a story of enduring identity.

The CROWN Act stands as a vital affirmation within this narrative, ensuring that the soul of each strand, with its intricate coils and rich history, can be worn with dignity, pride, and freedom. It reminds us that our hair is not just fiber; it is a sacred link to those who came before, a vibrant declaration of who we are today, and a luminous guide for generations yet to come.

References

• Byrd, A. & Tharps, L. (2001). Hair Story ❉ Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. St. Martin’s Press.
• Dabiri, E. (2020). Twisted ❉ The Tangled History of Black Hair Culture. Harper Perennial.
• Patton, T. (2006). Our Roots Run Deep ❉ The Black Hair Experience. Temple University Press.
• Rooks, N. (1996). Hair Raising ❉ Beauty, Culture, and African American Women. Rutgers University Press.
• Banks, I. (2000). Hair Matters ❉ Beauty, Power, and Black Women’s Consciousness. New York University Press.
• Walker, A. (2014). Madam C. J. Walker’s Gospel of Wealth ❉ Black Women, Reform, and the Power of the American Dream. University of Illinois Press.
• Roberts, S. (2003). African American Hair as Culture and Resistance. University of California Press.
• Boyd, A. (2023). Hair Me Out ❉ Why Discrimination Against Black Hair is Race Discrimination Under Title VII. American University Journal of Gender, Social Policy & the Law, 31(1), 75-102.
• McGill-Johnson, A. Godsil, R. MacFarlane, J. Tropp, L. & Goff, P. (2017). The good hair study ❉ Explicit and implicit attitudes toward Black women’s hair. Perception Institute.
• Greene, D. W. (2017). Splitting Hairs ❉ The Eleventh Circuit’s Take on Workplace Bans Against Black Women’s Natural Hair in EEOC v. Catastrophe Management Solutions. University of Miami Law Review, 71(4), 987-1012.