How do traditional ingredients and tools contribute to the ongoing legacy of textured hair care?

Roots

For those who carry the coiled crowns and flowing waves of textured hair, the story of its care is not a fleeting trend or a modern invention. It is a chronicle etched into the very fiber of our being, a living archive passed through generations. Our strands, in their magnificent diversity, whisper tales of ancestral wisdom, of resilience, and of beauty cultivated across continents and centuries.

This is not merely about products on a shelf; it is about the lasting continuity of practices, ingredients, and tools that have sustained and celebrated textured hair for millennia. To truly grasp the ongoing legacy of textured hair care, we must first descend into its foundational soil, tracing its lineage from elemental biology to the earliest communal rituals.

The Architecture of Ancestral Strands

The unique configurations of textured hair, from the tightest coils to the most generous waves, arise from a distinctive biological architecture. Unlike straight hair, which tends to possess a round cross-section, textured hair exhibits an elliptical or even flattened shape. This structural variance influences how moisture travels along the hair shaft and how strands interlock, giving rise to its characteristic volume and spring. The follicle itself, the very root of the strand, is often curved, dictating the helical growth pattern.

This biological distinction, though now understood through modern microscopy, was instinctively recognized by our forebears. Their care practices, refined over countless generations, were not accidental; they were clever responses to the inherent needs of these particular hair structures. They observed, they experimented, and they developed methods that respected the hair’s natural inclination towards dryness and its need for protective styling.

Hair’s Microscopic Design and Its Care Implications

The intrinsic design of textured hair presents both remarkable strength and specific vulnerabilities. The helical twists, while granting volume and a pleasing bounce, also create points along the strand where the cuticle layers can lift more readily. This inherent characteristic means textured hair is often more prone to moisture loss and requires consistent, thoughtful hydration. The scalp’s natural oils, sebum, find it challenging to travel down the winding path of a coiled strand, leaving the ends particularly susceptible to dryness and breakage.

This biological reality informed the very first care regimens, compelling early practitioners to seek out ingredients that could seal moisture and tools that could gently manage these delicate, yet powerful, structures. The ancestral understanding of these properties, long before the advent of electron microscopes, speaks to a rich, observational science rooted in daily interaction with hair.

• Follicle Curvature ❉ The shape of the hair follicle determines the curl pattern. A highly curved follicle yields tighter coils, while a less curved one produces waves. This curvature also means the natural oils (sebum) produced by the scalp struggle to travel down the hair shaft, leaving the ends prone to dryness.
• Cuticle Layers ❉ The outermost layer of hair, the cuticle, comprises overlapping scales. In textured hair, these scales may be more raised, further contributing to moisture loss and susceptibility to breakage if not properly sealed.
• Protein Structure ❉ The internal protein matrix of textured hair, while strong, can be more vulnerable to environmental stressors or harsh treatments due to its unique arrangement and the stress points created by its helical twists.

Traditional Ingredients ❉ Echoes from the Source

Across various African and diasporic communities, the earth provided a pharmacy for hair care. These traditional ingredients, often gathered from local flora, were not just applied; they were understood, their properties observed through generations of trial and refinement. Their continued presence in modern formulations speaks to an enduring efficacy and a lasting respect for ancestral wisdom. The knowledge surrounding these ingredients forms a living repository, a testament to humanity’s capacity for observation and innovation.

Consider the prominence of shea butter . Sourced from the nuts of the African shea tree (Vitellaria paradoxa), this rich, creamy substance has been a cornerstone of West African wellness for centuries. Its application to hair was not merely for cosmetic appeal; it served as a powerful emollient, sealing in moisture and offering a protective barrier against harsh climates. Archaeological findings suggest its use dates back to at least the 14th century in the Mali Empire, indicating a long lineage of its important role in daily life, including hair care (Amoa-Darko, 2016).

The knowledge of its processing, from cracking the nuts to kneading the butter, was a communal practice, often passed down through women, linking the ingredient directly to social bonds and shared heritage. This communal wisdom ensured the sustainability of the resource and the transmission of its therapeutic uses.

Traditional ingredients, sourced from the earth, carry ancestral wisdom, their properties observed and refined through generations, providing rich nourishment and protection for textured hair.

Beyond shea, other plant-derived components played an important part. Aloe vera , a succulent plant, found use across North Africa and the Caribbean for its soothing and moisturizing properties. Its gel-like consistency offered a gentle conditioning touch, aiding in detangling and scalp health. In some traditions, fermented rice water, rich in amino acids and vitamins, was used as a rinse to strengthen strands and promote length retention, a practice still revered today.

The selection of these ingredients was not arbitrary; it was born from intimate knowledge of the local environment and the specific needs of textured hair, reflecting a clear ecological awareness. The generational transmission of this botanical wisdom ensured its survival and adaptation across diverse geographies.

Botanical Wisdom from Across Continents

The reach of traditional hair care ingredients extended beyond the African continent. In regions with African diasporic populations, local flora became integrated into existing knowledge systems. For instance, in parts of the Caribbean and Latin America, the avocado fruit was prized for its rich oils, which were mashed and applied as conditioning treatments, providing intense moisture and shine to dry hair.

The indigenous populations of the Americas also contributed to this botanical knowledge, with plants like yucca being used for their saponin content as natural cleansers. These cross-cultural exchanges, often born from necessity and ingenuity, added layers to the evolving heritage of textured hair care, demonstrating a universal human inclination to seek nourishment from the earth.

Another powerful instance is neem oil , derived from the neem tree native to the Indian subcontinent. While not exclusively African, its properties for scalp health and anti-fungal action made it a valuable ingredient in hair care traditions that traveled and mixed across trade routes and diasporic movements. Its bitter aroma was a small price to pay for its reputed ability to keep the scalp clean and free from irritations, a needed concern for protective styles that might be worn for extended periods. The convergence of these botanical traditions speaks to a shared human quest for wellness and beauty.

Tools of the Ancestors ❉ Shaping and Sustaining

The implements used in traditional hair care were as important as the ingredients themselves, each tool serving a specific purpose in the intricate rituals of styling and maintenance. These were often handcrafted, imbued with cultural meaning, and considered extensions of the stylist’s hands and the community’s artistic spirit. They represent not just utility, but a lasting connection to artistry and shared history.

Combs, for instance, were far more than detangling devices. Carved from wood, bone, or ivory, they were often works of art, adorned with symbols that spoke of status, spirituality, or communal identity. The Duafe comb of the Akan people in Ghana, bearing the Adinkra symbol representing beauty and cleanliness, is a poignant example. Such combs were used for sectioning, lifting, and shaping, allowing for the creation of elaborate styles that were themselves forms of visual communication.

Their presence in archaeological digs across Africa confirms their long history as important cultural artifacts (Sieber, 1980). These combs were crafted with a rich understanding of hair’s texture, their wide teeth designed to navigate coils without causing undue stress, a design principle that remains relevant today.

Another main tool was the human hand itself. Fingers, with their natural dexterity, were the primary instruments for detangling, coiling, and braiding. This tactile connection between the caregiver and the recipient of the hair care fostered bonds of intimacy and trust, transforming a practical task into a communal ritual. The act of tending to hair, particularly within families, served as a conduit for transmitting stories, values, and the intricate knowledge of hair care from elder to youth.

This embodied knowledge, passed through touch and observation, forms an irreplaceable part of the legacy. The rhythmic movements of braiding or twisting, often accompanied by song or conversation, solidified the experience as a communal act of care and connection.

How Did Early Tools Influence Hair Styling Techniques?

Early tools directly shaped the possibilities of hair styling. The very structure of the Duafe comb , with its wide, strong teeth, enabled the creation of precise parts and the gentle separation of coils, laying the foundation for intricate braided and twisted styles. Without such tools, the complex patterns seen in historical depictions of African hairstyles would have been far more challenging, if not impossible, to achieve with precision. Similarly, the use of simple bone pins or sharpened sticks allowed for the creation of small, defined coils or locs, guiding the hair into desired shapes.

These tools were not merely passive implements; they were active participants in the creative process, dictating the technical boundaries and artistic expressions of the time. Their cleverness speaks to the resourcefulness of our ancestors in harnessing available materials to meet their aesthetic and practical needs.

Ritual

Stepping from the foundational knowledge of textured hair and its ancient sustenance, we now consider the rituals themselves—the deliberate acts and communal rhythms that shaped care practices. For many, the very term ‘ritual’ conjures images of ancient ceremonies, yet within the realm of textured hair, it signifies a continuous, evolving engagement with our strands, a practice steeped in ancestral wisdom and constantly reshaped by living experiences. The way traditional ingredients and tools were, and continue to be, incorporated into these practices offers a window into the enduring legacy of textured hair care.

It is an invitation to witness how historical understanding transforms into lived application, how the theoretical becomes tangible in the hands of those who care for these crowns. This section delves into the intricate dance of technique, the purpose behind each motion, and the cultural meaning embedded in every strand manipulated.

Protective Styling ❉ An Ancestral Art Form

Protective styling, a cornerstone of textured hair care today, finds its deepest roots in ancestral practices. For millennia, African communities developed intricate braiding, twisting, and coiling techniques that served multiple purposes ❉ aesthetic, social, and practical. These styles were not merely decorative; they shielded delicate strands from environmental aggressors like sun, dust, and breakage from daily activities.

They allowed for length retention, a physical manifestation of vitality and prosperity. The ingenuity behind these styles was a direct response to the biological needs of textured hair, minimizing manipulation and protecting vulnerable ends.

The history of cornrows, for example, extends back thousands of years. Depictions of cornrows appear in ancient Egyptian hieroglyphs and on artifacts from the Nok civilization of Nigeria dating back to 500 BC (Byrd & Tharps, 2001). These styles communicated marital status, age, tribal identity, and even social hierarchy. The process of creating them was often a communal activity, a time for storytelling, sharing wisdom, and strengthening intergenerational bonds.

The traditional tools—the precise fingers, the carefully carved combs—were integral to these elaborate creations, allowing for the clean parts and tight, durable foundations necessary for longevity. The rhythmic sounds of braiding, the shared laughter, and the quiet moments of connection created a powerful social fabric around hair care.

What Cultural Narratives Shaped Early Protective Styles?

The narratives surrounding early protective styles were as varied as the communities that crafted them. In some West African societies, specific patterns of braids could signify a person’s readiness for marriage or their lineage. During periods of enslavement, these same braiding patterns sometimes served as maps to freedom, encoding escape routes or messages within their intricate designs, a poignant testament to their hidden power and resilience (Patton, 2006). This historical weight imbues every protective style with a rich cultural resonance, making it far more than a simple hairstyle.

It becomes a declaration of continuity, a visible link to a past that survived immense adversity. The preservation of these techniques, often in secret, speaks volumes about the human spirit’s desire to hold onto identity against overwhelming odds.

Consider the practice of locs , a style that has been worn for millennia across diverse cultures, including ancient Egypt, India, and various African civilizations. In many contexts, locs carried spiritual meaning, symbolizing a connection to the divine or a renunciation of worldly attachments. They also represented strength, wisdom, and an unyielding connection to one’s natural state.

The process of forming and maintaining locs, often without the aid of modern products, relied on traditional ingredients like natural resins or plant extracts to help the hair bind and mature, alongside the consistent use of fingers for twisting and palm-rolling. This long history demonstrates how hair care practices could embody deep philosophical and spiritual beliefs, transcending mere aesthetics.

Natural Styling and Definition ❉ Honoring Hair’s Spirit

The pursuit of natural curl definition, a prevalent goal in contemporary textured hair care, echoes ancient practices that celebrated the hair’s inherent form. Before chemical straighteners became widely available, communities relied on techniques that worked with, rather than against, the natural coil and wave patterns. This approach was rooted in a lasting respect for the hair’s natural inclination, seeking to enhance its inherent beauty rather than alter its fundamental structure.

Traditional methods involved the liberal application of natural oils and butters, massaged into the hair to provide slip and moisture, making detangling easier and encouraging curls to clump. Fingers were often used to gently separate and coil strands, a direct precursor to modern finger coiling. These practices aimed to nourish and protect, allowing the hair to display its natural beauty without altering its intrinsic structure.

The emphasis was on enhancing the hair’s natural qualities, not on imposing an alien form upon it. The tactile nature of these practices also deepened the personal connection to one’s hair, viewing it as a living extension of self.

The enduring practice of protective styling, from ancient cornrows to contemporary twists, represents a continuous ancestral art form, shielding and celebrating textured hair while transmitting cultural narratives.

The act of styling was often intertwined with social interaction. In many African societies, grooming was a communal activity, particularly among women. Children would learn by observing their mothers and grandmothers, mimicking their movements, and internalizing the rhythmic motions of care. This communal aspect ensured the transmission of knowledge and techniques across generations, embedding hair care within the fabric of social life.

These shared moments fostered a sense of belonging and reinforced the collective identity, making hair care a cornerstone of social cohesion. The wisdom exchanged during these sessions was invaluable, encompassing not just techniques but also philosophical approaches to beauty and self-care.

Traditional Cleansing and Conditioning Rituals

The legacy of textured hair care also encompasses ancient methods of cleansing and conditioning. Before commercial shampoos and conditioners, communities relied on natural compounds that effectively purified and softened the hair without stripping its needed moisture. This intuitive understanding of moisture retention for textured hair was a hallmark of ancestral practices.

African Black Soap, originating from West Africa, is a prime example. Made from the ashes of plantain peels, cocoa pods, and shea tree bark, mixed with palm kernel oil or coconut oil, it provided a gentle yet potent cleansing experience. Its natural saponins created a mild lather, removing impurities while leaving the hair feeling soft and moisturized.

This contrasts sharply with many harsh, sulfate-laden cleansers that gained popularity later, highlighting the wisdom of traditional formulations that prioritized the hair’s delicate moisture balance. The process of making black soap was often a meticulous, multi-day affair, a testament to the dedication involved in creating effective, natural cleansers.

Conditioning often involved infusions of herbs and plants. In some regions, leaves of the neem tree were steeped to create a rinse known for its purifying and strengthening properties. The mucilage from okra pods was also used as a natural detangler and conditioner, providing slip and softness.

These plant-based solutions underscore a rich understanding of botanical properties and their application to hair health, a knowledge passed down through oral tradition and practical demonstration. The use of natural clays, like rhassoul clay from the Atlas Mountains of Morocco, also provided gentle cleansing and conditioning, absorbing impurities without harsh stripping, leaving hair feeling clean and soft.

How Did Geographical Diversity Shape Cleansing Ingredients?

The geographical diversity of African and diasporic communities directly shaped the array of cleansing ingredients utilized. In coastal regions, ingredients like sea salt and certain seaweeds might have been incorporated for their mineral content or cleansing properties. In arid regions, plants with mucilaginous properties, which could hydrate and cleanse gently, would have been prioritized. The local ecosystem was the primary pharmacy, and communities developed sophisticated knowledge of their immediate botanical surroundings.

This regional variation speaks to the adaptability and resourcefulness of ancestral populations, tailoring their care practices to the resources at hand while maintaining a shared objective of healthy, vibrant hair. This localized wisdom contributes to the rich heritage of textured hair.

The Role of Adornment ❉ Beyond Simple Care

Hair care rituals extended beyond mere cleansing and styling; they were deeply connected to adornment and self-expression. Beads, cowrie shells, precious metals, and colorful threads were woven into hair, transforming hairstyles into living sculptures. These adornments often carried symbolic weight, indicating wealth, status, or spiritual connection. The act of adorning hair was a celebration of identity, a visual declaration of belonging and individual artistry.

This practice highlights how traditional ingredients and tools contributed not only to the health of the hair but also to its role as a canvas for cultural expression and personal narrative. The legacy here is one of creativity, self-possession, and the continuous reinvention of beauty. The elaborate nature of some adorned styles also spoke to the dedication and skill of the stylist, a revered role within many communities.

For instance, among the Maasai people, specific beaded ornaments were incorporated into braids, signifying age, social standing, and marital status. These were not just decorative components; they were integral to the social communication system, readable symbols that conveyed a person’s life journey. The preparation of the hair for such adornment, often involving specific oils and precise parting techniques, was as weighty as the adornment itself, underscoring the holistic nature of traditional hair practices. This integration of beauty, status, and identity is a powerful aspect of the enduring heritage.

Relay

How do the ancient whispers of care and the deliberate shaping of tools resonate in the present, forging a future for textured hair? This question invites us to consider the enduring power of traditional ingredients and tools, not as relics of a distant past, but as living currents flowing through the contemporary landscape of textured hair care. Here, the strands of science, culture, and ancestral practice connect, revealing a lasting and continuous legacy.

We move beyond the immediate ritual to contemplate the deeper, interconnected meanings that traditional practices hold for identity, wellness, and the very act of preserving a precious heritage. This final contemplation seeks to illuminate how the wisdom of our ancestors continues to shape our understanding of hair health, cultural expression, and communal strength.

The Science Validating Ancestral Wisdom

Modern scientific inquiry frequently provides validation for long-standing ancestral hair care practices, offering a greater understanding of ‘why’ certain traditional ingredients and tools were so effective. This coming together of ancient wisdom and contemporary research reinforces the legacy of those who came before us. It bridges the gap between empirical observation and molecular explanation, affirming the intelligence embedded in traditional knowledge systems.

Consider the use of plant-based oils and butters, such as jojoba oil or castor oil . Historically, these were applied for scalp health and to coat hair strands, reducing friction and aiding detangling. Contemporary trichology now confirms that oils rich in fatty acids, like those found in castor oil, can penetrate the hair shaft to provide rich conditioning, while oils mimicking the scalp’s natural sebum, such as jojoba, offer excellent emollient properties without clogging pores (Gavazzoni Dias, 2015).

This scientific corroboration strengthens the argument for their continued use, not as a nostalgic act, but as a practice grounded in tangible benefits for hair health. The very composition of these natural lipids provides a protective layer, reducing moisture evaporation from the hair shaft, a needed function for textured hair.

Modern scientific understanding frequently confirms the efficacy of traditional ingredients and tools, revealing a rich convergence of ancestral wisdom and contemporary research.

The very act of detangling with wide-tooth combs, a direct descendant of traditional wooden combs, is now understood to minimize mechanical stress on the hair. The wider spacing and smooth surfaces of these tools prevent snagging and breakage, preserving the delicate cuticle layer of textured strands. This scientific explanation underpins the ancestral preference for gentler manipulation, a testament to keen observation passed down through generations.

Moreover, the use of natural fibers for hair accessories, such as silk or satin scarves and bonnets, a practice rooted in preserving elaborate styles overnight, is now scientifically recognized for reducing friction and moisture loss compared to absorbent materials like cotton. This simple, traditional practice protects the hair’s structural integrity, minimizing frizz and breakage.

How do Traditional Practices Influence Modern Hair Care Product Development?

The influence of traditional practices on modern hair care product development is undeniable. Many contemporary brands specializing in textured hair formulations actively seek out and incorporate ingredients that have long histories of use in African, Caribbean, and indigenous communities. This is not simply a marketing trend; it reflects a growing recognition of the efficacy and holistic benefits associated with these natural components. Products now boast ingredients like chebe powder from Chad, used traditionally for hair strengthening and length retention, or rhassoul clay from Morocco, valued for its gentle cleansing and conditioning properties.

This integration ensures that the legacy of traditional ingredients is not merely preserved but actively continues to shape the future of hair care. The demand for ethically sourced and culturally authentic ingredients has prompted a re-evaluation of supply chains and product formulations, moving towards a more respectful and sustainable approach.

This movement represents a shift away from chemically intensive formulations towards those that honor the hair’s natural composition and ancestral needs. It signifies a cultural reclaiming, where the wisdom of the past is celebrated and applied to meet contemporary hair care demands, reinforcing the idea that innovation can stem from tradition. The increasing popularity of DIY hair care, where individuals concoct their own treatments using raw, traditional ingredients, also speaks to this enduring influence, allowing for a personal connection to ancestral practices. This direct engagement with ingredients deepens appreciation for their heritage.

Hair as a Symbol of Identity and Resistance

Beyond their practical applications, traditional ingredients and tools have played an important role in shaping the identity and resistance narratives of Black and mixed-race communities. Hair, and the way it is cared for and styled, has always been a potent symbol of selfhood, cultural belonging, and defiance in the face of oppression. Its malleability allowed for both adaptation and unwavering assertion of heritage.

During periods of colonial rule and enslavement, when attempts were made to strip individuals of their cultural markers, maintaining traditional hair practices became an act of strong resistance. The continued use of ancestral ingredients, even if gathered in secret, and the clandestine practice of traditional styling methods, were ways of preserving a connection to heritage and asserting dignity. These acts, though seemingly small, were powerful declarations of identity, often carrying considerable risk.

The act of braiding, for example, could be a silent form of communication, a way to maintain community ties and shared knowledge under duress. This cultural resilience, embodied in hair, speaks volumes.

The hot comb , while a tool introduced during the era of hair straightening, ironically became a complex symbol. While it represented an assimilationist pressure, its very existence also allowed for a degree of control over one’s appearance and a sense of agency in a world that sought to deny it. The mastery of this tool, often passed down through family lines, created a shared experience and a specific cultural ritual around hair preparation, even if the underlying intention was often rooted in societal pressures (Patton, 2006).

This period highlights the intricate dance between survival, adaptation, and the persistent desire for self-expression, even when choices were constrained. The cultural memory of this era remains a powerful aspect of the textured hair heritage.

What is the Enduring Cultural Power of Hair Adornment?

The enduring cultural power of hair adornment, often facilitated by traditional tools and techniques, lies in its capacity to communicate without words. In many African societies, the way hair was styled and adorned could convey a person’s marital status, age group, social rank, or even their spiritual affiliations. Beads, cowrie shells, and other natural components were not merely decorative; they were parts of a visual language. This deep semiotic function of hair styling ensured that hair care was never a solitary, private act, but a public declaration of identity and belonging.

Even today, the choice to wear traditional styles or incorporate traditional adornments can be a powerful statement of cultural pride and connection to ancestry. This visual continuity reinforces the idea of hair as a living, breathing part of cultural heritage.

• Symbol of Selfhood ❉ Textured hair, when styled and cared for with traditional methods, becomes a visible marker of cultural belonging and personal expression, reflecting ancestral aesthetics.
• Acts of Resistance ❉ Maintaining traditional hair practices and styles in the face of assimilationist pressures served as a quiet yet strong form of defiance and cultural preservation.
• Community Connection ❉ The shared knowledge of ingredients and tools, and the communal acts of hair care, fostered bonds and reinforced a collective identity among Black and mixed-race individuals.
• Economic Empowerment ❉ The ethical sourcing and trade of traditional ingredients support communities that have long cultivated this ancestral knowledge.

The Economic and Social Impact of Traditional Knowledge

The legacy of traditional ingredients and tools extends into the economic and social spheres. The demand for products containing traditional ingredients like shea butter, coconut oil, and various plant extracts has created global markets, offering economic opportunities for communities in their regions of origin. This commercialization, when handled ethically, can support local economies and empower producers, particularly women who have historically been the custodians of this knowledge. This positive economic impact, when managed with principles of fair trade and community benefit, helps sustain the very traditions from which these ingredients originate.

However, this also brings challenges. The commercialization of traditional knowledge raises questions of intellectual property and equitable benefit-sharing. It is necessary that the legacy of these ingredients is honored not just through their use, but through fair trade practices and respectful partnerships that acknowledge the communities who have cultivated and preserved this knowledge for centuries.

This ongoing dialogue shapes the future of the legacy, ensuring it remains rooted in fairness and reciprocity. The ethical imperative here is to ensure that the wealth generated from these ancestral resources circulates back to the communities whose knowledge made it possible.

The social impact is also considerable. The resurgence of natural hair movements globally has seen a renewed appreciation for traditional ingredients and tools. This movement celebrates the diversity of textured hair, encouraging individuals to embrace their natural patterns and to seek out products and practices that align with ancestral wisdom. It fosters a sense of pride and connection to heritage, moving beyond imposed beauty standards to define beauty on one’s own terms.

The continued reverence for traditional ways of caring for textured hair serves as a powerful testament to the enduring spirit and creativity of its custodians. This cultural shift represents a powerful reclaiming of narratives and a celebration of self, richly rooted in the historical practices that have always honored textured hair.

Reflection

As we draw our gaze across the vast landscape of textured hair care, from the microscopic intricacies of each strand to the grand narratives of cultural continuity, a singular truth shines forth ❉ the enduring power of heritage. Traditional ingredients and tools are not mere artifacts of a bygone era; they are the living, breathing currents that connect us to a rich past, shaping our present understanding and guiding our future endeavors. Each application of a natural butter, each stroke of a wide-tooth comb, echoes the hands and wisdom of countless generations.

Our hair, in its glorious coils, curls, and waves, stands as a testament to resilience, beauty, and the unbreakable spirit of those who nurtured it before us. It is a heritage to be honored, a legacy to be carried forward with reverence and continuous discovery.

References

• Amoa-Darko, A. K. (2016). Shea Butter ❉ A Global Commodity. Routledge.
• Byrd, A. D. & Tharps, L. D. (2001). Hair Story ❉ Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. St. Martin’s Press.
• Gavazzoni Dias, M. F. (2015). Hair Cosmetics ❉ An Overview. International Journal of Trichology, 7(1), 2-15.
• Patton, M. (2006). Bundles ❉ Andre Walker, Oprah Winfrey, and the Business of Black Hair. University of Washington Press.
• Sieber, R. (1980). African Furniture and Household Objects. Indiana University Press.