Roots
To truly understand the journey of textured hair care today, one must first look back, far beyond the confines of modern beauty aisles and commercial classifications. Our hair, especially that with curl and coil, carries within its very fiber the echoes of ancestral landscapes, community wisdom, and the complex historical currents that have shaped identity. How do historical categorizations affect modern textured hair care?
The answer lies in recognizing that the arbitrary boxes of the past, often steeped in exclusionary ideologies, cast long shadows, influencing not only the products we encounter but also the very way we perceive our natural crowns. This exploration begins at the source, examining the fundamental understanding of textured hair from its biological genesis to the language used to describe it, always through the lens of heritage.
Ancestral Strands and Early Understandings
Before any formal “typing” systems, human hair varied as widely as the human experience itself. Early African civilizations, particularly those in West and West Central Africa, held hair in high esteem. It was a language, a living diary of one’s journey. Hair communicated age, marital status, social standing, tribal identity, and even spiritual beliefs.
The intricate styles seen in ancient Egyptian depictions and the elaborate cornrow patterns of the Fulani people were not mere adornments; they were profound statements of self and community. Hair acted as a conduit to the divine, connecting individuals to their ancestors and the spirit world. This historical perspective reveals an understanding of hair deeply rooted in cultural significance and collective identity, far removed from later, reductive categorizations.
Hair was once a living lexicon, a language of identity spoken through braids and coils in ancient African communities.
The biological makeup of textured hair, characterized by its elliptical follicle shape and unique growth pattern, is an evolutionary adaptation. Scholars theorize that tightly coiled hair protected early human ancestors from intense ultraviolet radiation, providing insulation and aiding scalp cooling in hot climates. This inherent biological design, shaped over millennia, stands as a testament to the hair’s natural capabilities, a stark contrast to later attempts to label it as less desirable.
The Shadow of Classification Systems
The arrival of colonialism and the transatlantic slave trade marked a painful departure from these traditional understandings. Enslaved Africans suffered forced head shaving, an act intended to dehumanize and strip away their identity and connection to their homeland. This trauma initiated a systemic devaluation of textured hair. European colonizers imposed their aesthetic standards, deeming Afro-textured hair “uncivilized” or “unprofessional.”
The origins of formal hair typing systems, as we know them today, are entangled with these disturbing historical currents. In the early 1900s, figures such as Eugen Fischer, a German Nazi scientist and ardent eugenicist, developed tools to classify hair based on race. Fischer’s “hair gauge,” created around 1905, aimed to determine an individual’s “proximity to whiteness” based on hair texture, notably in the mixed-race population of Namibia during a period of genocide. This chilling historical example underscores how initial categorizations were not scientific endeavors for care, but rather instruments of racial subjugation and the enforcement of white racial supremacy.
| Historical Period/System Ancient African Traditions |
| Underlying Intent Identity, social status, spiritual connection, cultural preservation. |
| Impact on Textured Hair Heritage Hair celebrated as a symbol of self and community, diverse styles held deep cultural meaning. |
| Historical Period/System Colonial Era / Eugenics (Early 20th Century) |
| Underlying Intent Racial categorization, hierarchy establishment, "proximity to whiteness" assessment. |
| Impact on Textured Hair Heritage Dehumanization, stigmatization of natural texture, imposition of Eurocentric beauty standards. |
| Historical Period/System Modern Hair Typing (Andre Walker System, 1990s) |
| Underlying Intent Consumer product marketing, simplified texture identification. |
| Impact on Textured Hair Heritage Accessibility for product choice; however, criticized for favoring looser curl patterns and perpetuating texturism. |
| Historical Period/System These historical shifts highlight how the categorizations of textured hair moved from reverence to reduction, deeply affecting its heritage perception. |
A Lexicon of Legacy and Lived Experience
While the Andre Walker hair typing system, popularized in the 1990s, aimed to assist consumers in selecting products by categorizing hair into types 1 (straight) to 4 (coily) with subcategories, it too has faced criticism. This system, though ostensibly for hair care, often inadvertently reinforced a preference for looser curl patterns. Texturism, the discrimination against coarser, more tightly coiled hair, remains a present issue, with roots in these historical biases.
The language used to describe hair, even today, can carry the weight of these past judgments. Terms like “kinky” or “wooly,” once derogatory, are slowly being reclaimed by the community, but their history lingers.
The scientific understanding of textured hair continues to grow. Research acknowledges the unique structural properties of Afro-textured hair, such as its elliptical cross-section, higher disulfide bond density, and tendency for shrinkage. These scientific insights, when paired with an appreciation for historical context, allow for a more informed and respectful approach to hair care. It is a delicate dance, moving beyond the limiting categorizations of the past to embrace the authentic beauty and biological reality of diverse textures.
Ritual
The story of textured hair extends beyond its inherent structure; it lives in the daily practices, the inherited methods, and the communal activities that shape its care. How do historical categorizations affect modern textured hair care, particularly within the realm of styling techniques and tool use? The echoes of ancestral wisdom and the constraints of past injustices continue to influence the choices we make, the products we seek, and the very identity expressed through our hair. This section delves into the sacred acts of styling, examining how historical standards imposed upon textured hair shaped its evolution and resilience.
Styling as Cultural Preservation and Resistance
For generations, styling textured hair has been an act of cultural preservation. In ancient African societies, hairstyles were powerful visual statements, reflecting social status, age, and spiritual connection. Braiding, for example, was not just a styling technique; it was a communal activity, a time for bonding and the transmission of oral histories and traditions from mother to daughter. These practices, like the intricate cornrows of the Fulani people or the symbolic Adinkra patterns woven by the Ashanti, were deeply meaningful.
The era of slavery and subsequent discriminatory practices drastically disrupted these rituals. Enslaved people, stripped of traditional tools and the time for elaborate care, were forced to find new ways to maintain their hair, often resorting to rudimentary ingredients like kerosene or bacon grease. This period saw the emergence of “good hair” versus “bad hair” dichotomies, where straight hair was associated with desirability and social acceptance, leading to widespread pressure to chemically straighten or “tame” natural textures.
The transformation of textured hair from a marker of identity to a target of suppression speaks volumes about the enduring impact of historical categorizations.
The pervasive nature of Eurocentric beauty standards led to the popularity of chemical relaxers in the early 20th century. These products offered a means to conform, to make hair appear “professional” in a society that often deemed natural Black hair as unruly or unkempt. Yet, these chemical treatments frequently carried significant health risks, including scalp damage and links to certain cancers.
Protective Styling ❉ A Legacy of Ingenuity
Despite pressures to conform, the legacy of protective styling persisted, adapting to new realities. These styles, like braids, twists, and locs, historically shielded hair from environmental damage and reduced daily manipulation. They served as a quiet act of defiance, symbolizing pride in African heritage and continuity with ancestral practices.
Here are some traditional protective styling techniques with enduring heritage ❉
- Cornrows ❉ Originating in ancient African civilizations, these close-to-the-scalp braids were used to convey social status, age, and tribal affiliation. They even served as coded messages for escape routes during slavery.
- Bantu Knots ❉ From the Zulu people of Southern Africa, these coiled sections of hair were symbols of African identity and strength, even being banned during colonial periods as acts of resistance.
- African Threading (Irun Kiko) ❉ Popular among the Yoruba people of Nigeria since the 15th century, this method uses thread to stretch and protect hair, promoting length retention and reducing breakage.
The return to natural hair, especially with the resurgence of the natural hair movement in the 2000s, signals a collective reclaiming of heritage. This movement encourages self-acceptance and challenges the long-held notion that only straight hair is acceptable. It acknowledges that every coil and curl possesses its own unique beauty and resilience, a testament to its ancestral lineage.
Do Modern Hair Tools Acknowledge Textured Hair’s Heritage?
The evolution of hair tools reflects this journey. While traditional African tools, such as combs carved from wood or bone, were designed to navigate and honor coiled textures, the introduction of hot combs and straightening irons in the diaspora aimed to alter rather than complement natural patterns. Modern hair tools, however, have begun to adapt, recognizing the diverse needs of textured hair.
Heat-styling tools now often feature ceramic coatings and adjustable temperature settings, aiming to reduce damage. Diffusers are widely available to enhance curl definition gently.
Yet, the historical categorizations still linger. The pressure to conform to Eurocentric standards persists in many professional and social settings, affecting employment opportunities and perpetuating microaggressions. This reality means that while tools for natural hair are more accessible, the societal context in which they are used remains a battleground for identity. The journey of textured hair care, in its essence, is a continuing dialogue between inherited wisdom and contemporary understanding, a constant negotiation between what is and what has been.
Relay
The reverberations of historical categorizations extend far beyond mere aesthetics; they deeply influence health, economic well-being, and self-perception within communities whose hair has been systemically devalued. How do historical categorizations affect modern textured hair care in ways that impact our health, our livelihoods, and our very sense of worth? This section delves into the profound, interconnected ways that past judgments continue to shape the present, drawing on research and lived experiences to illuminate this complex terrain. It is here we encounter the enduring legacy of ancestral practices, often validated by contemporary science, and the tangible consequences of bias.
The Health Burden of Conformity
The historical pressure to straighten textured hair, driven by Eurocentric beauty standards, prompted widespread use of chemical relaxers. These products, while offering a semblance of conformity, contained harmful chemicals like parabens and phthalates. Studies have established a concerning link between the frequent use of chemical straighteners and increased health risks for Black women. For instance, a 2023 survey study indicated that Black respondents reported the most frequent use of chemical straighteners compared to other racial groups, with 61% stating they used them because they felt “more beautiful with straight hair” (2023 survey study cited in a 2023 article by Dr.
Adiaha Spinks-Franklin, 2023). This is more than a preference; it is a direct consequence of a historical categorization that deemed natural texture less acceptable.
The pursuit of historically ‘acceptable’ hair textures has come at a considerable, often silent, health cost for Black women.
These health implications extend beyond chemical exposure. Chronic stress from hair discrimination itself contributes to adverse well-being. Black women with coily or textured hair are twice as likely to experience microaggressions at work compared to Black women with straighter hair.
Over 20% of Black women aged 25-34 have been sent home from their jobs due to their hair. This pervasive discrimination, rooted in historical biases, affects mental and physical well-being, impacting career advancement and economic stability.
Workplace Discrimination and Economic Impact
The workplace often serves as a primary arena where historical categorizations play out with concrete consequences. Policies banning “unprofessional” hairstyles disproportionately target Black hair textures, leading to job denials, lack of promotions, and even termination. The “pencil test” used during South African Apartheid, where a pencil placed in hair determined racial classification, offers a chilling historical parallel to modern workplace biases.
The financial strain associated with hair care also connects to these historical pressures. Black consumers spend a significant amount on hair care products. In 2022, Black consumers spent $2.3 billion on hair care, marking it as their largest category of beauty purchases (NielsonIQ, 2023).
Mandating straight hair can incur considerable costs, with permanent straightening treatments ranging from $38 to $435 per session. This economic burden, coupled with potential job losses due to hair discrimination, highlights the systemic nature of these historical influences.
How Can Modern Science Validate Ancestral Hair Practices?
The scientific understanding of textured hair has advanced, often validating the wisdom of ancestral practices. For instance, the traditional use of natural oils and butters like shea butter, coconut oil, and argan oil in African communities for moisture retention and scalp health is now understood through their rich lipid profiles and ability to penetrate the hair shaft, providing essential hydration.
Consider the practice of hair oiling, common across many African and diasporic communities. Modern science confirms that oils, such as those derived from plants like shea, help to seal the cuticle, preventing moisture loss, which is particularly vital for tightly coiled hair that tends to be drier due to its unique structure.
A comparison between traditional and modern approaches reveals a compelling synthesis:
| Ancestral Practice (Historical Context) Using natural plant oils (e.g. shea butter, coconut oil) to coat and moisturize hair. |
| Modern Scientific Understanding Lipids in these oils provide occlusive layers, reducing transepidermal water loss and strengthening the hair cuticle. |
| Heritage Connection Validates long-standing wisdom of moisture preservation, central to healthy textured hair across generations. |
| Ancestral Practice (Historical Context) Protective styles (braids, twists, locs) to minimize manipulation. |
| Modern Scientific Understanding Reduces mechanical stress, preventing breakage from combing/brushing and environmental exposure. |
| Heritage Connection Reinforces traditional styling as a method of hair health, preserving length and minimizing damage. |
| Ancestral Practice (Historical Context) Scalp cleansing with natural clays (e.g. Rhassoul clay) or African Black Soap. |
| Modern Scientific Understanding Clays absorb impurities without stripping natural oils, while black soap offers gentle cleansing. |
| Heritage Connection Connects ancient cleansing rituals to contemporary scalp health, recognizing natural ingredients. |
| Ancestral Practice (Historical Context) The enduring efficacy of ancestral hair practices often finds its explanation in contemporary scientific principles, solidifying their heritage value. |
A Call for Reclaiming Narratives
The CROWN Act, legislation prohibiting discrimination based on hair texture and styles associated with race, represents a significant step towards dismantling these historical barriers. As of 2023, the CROWN Act has been adopted in many states, striving to create environments where textured hair is no longer a liability but a celebrated aspect of identity.
The discourse around textured hair care today is thus a relay race of knowledge—passing insights from ancestral traditions to modern science, from historical oppression to present-day liberation movements. It is a profound meditation on how classifications, born of prejudice, have shaped personal and collective journeys, while simultaneously igniting a powerful reclamation of heritage and self-acceptance.
Reflection
The journey through historical categorizations and their impact on modern textured hair care brings us to a quiet space of contemplation. The Soul of a Strand, truly, encompasses more than just keratin and disulfide bonds. It holds the echoes of ancient ceremonies, the silent stories of resilience through enslavement, and the defiant declaration of beauty in the face of systemic bias.
We see how arbitrary labels, born of ill-conceived notions of race, attempted to diminish the very essence of hair that is coiled and wonderfully varied. Yet, this history, heavy as it may be, becomes a wellspring of wisdom, a living archive guiding our present and shaping our tomorrow.
The path ahead is not about erasing the past, but about understanding it fully, about acknowledging the hurt, and then, with intention, forging a path that honors the authentic heritage of textured hair. It asks us to look beyond simplistic hair typing charts, to move past the inherited shame, and to recognize the scientific ingenuity embedded in ancestral practices. The resilience of these traditions, from the purposeful oiling rituals of West Africa to the protective artistry of intricate braiding, offers a testament to deep, abiding wisdom.
Our engagement with textured hair care now transforms into a conscious act of lineage, a participation in an ongoing cultural conversation. Each bottle of ethically sourced product, each careful detangling session, each celebration of a unique curl pattern, becomes a thread in this continuing story. It is a commitment to seeing textured hair, in all its manifestations, as a source of strength, beauty, and profound connection to those who came before us. This understanding invites us to be stewards of this precious heritage, ensuring that every strand speaks not of imposed categories, but of an unbound, radiant truth.
References
- Byrd, A. D. & Tharps, L. (2001). Hair Story ❉ Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. St. Martin’s Press.
- Dabiri, E. (2019). Twisted ❉ The Tangled History of Black Hair. Penguin Books.
- Koch, S. L. Tridico, S. R. Bernard, B. A. Shriver, M. D. & Jablonski, N. G. (2019). The biology of human hair ❉ A multidisciplinary review. American Journal of Human Biology, 32(2), e23316.
- Lasisi, T. (2020). Why Do We Have Different Hair Types? (Doctoral dissertation). The Pennsylvania State University.
- Opie, T. R. & Phillips, K. W. (2015). Hair penalties ❉ The negative influence of Afrocentric hair on ratings of Black women’s dominance and professionalism. Frontiers in Psychology, 6, 1311.
- Spinks-Franklin, A. (2023). What Every Dermatologist Must Know About the History of Black Hair. VisualDx Blog.
- Stiel, L. et al. (2015). Hair straightening products and breast cancer. Carcinogenesis, 36(7), 786-791.
- Chang, C. J. et al. (2022). Use of hair products and incident uterine leiomyomata in the Sister Study. Environmental Research, 203, 111894.
- Jaima, A. R. A. (2020). American ignorance and the discourse of manageability concerning the care and presentation of Black hair. Journal of Medical Humanities, 43(2), 283–302.
- Mbilishaka, A. M. Clemons, K. Hudlin, M. Warner, C. & Jones, D. (2020). Don’t get it twisted ❉ Untangling the psychology of hair discrimination within Black communities. American Journal of Orthopsychiatry, 90(5), 590.