How do genes influence textured hair?

Roots

The strands that crown our heads, particularly those with rich and varied coils, curls, and waves, carry stories far older than memory, stretching back to the dawn of humanity. They are living archives, whispering tales of adaptation, survival, and deep cultural meaning. How do genes influence textured hair? This question reaches beyond simple biology; it summons an understanding of our place in a grand lineage, where ancestral wisdom and scientific discovery meet.

Each bend, each spiraling curve, holds the echoes of our forebears, a testament to the remarkable ways our physical selves mirror the enduring spirit of our heritage. We see in our hair not merely a biological feature, but a vibrant connection to a past that continues to shape our present and guide our future.

Ancestral Designs of the Strand

To truly grasp the genetic blueprint of textured hair, we must journey to its very inception, tracing the origins of these unique formations. Hair, at its elemental core, emerges from follicles nestled within the skin. The shape of this follicle, rather than the hair strand itself, largely dictates the curl pattern that unfurls. A straight hair shaft grows from a largely round follicle, while the elliptical or asymmetrical follicle yields the beautiful, diverse forms of wavy, curly, and coily hair.

This fundamental biological truth, though expressed in scientific terms today, was perhaps observed and understood through generations of lived experience and familial patterns within ancestral communities. The presence of these varied shapes, particularly the highly curved follicles common in populations of African descent, points to a long evolutionary adaptation. Early human ancestors, living under intense sun, likely found that tightly coiling hair provided a protective cushion, shielding the scalp from harsh ultraviolet radiation and allowing for beneficial air circulation. This biological adaptation, passed down through generations, solidified the genetic underpinnings of textured hair.

The shape of the hair follicle, an ancient biological design, holds the key to the diverse curl patterns we see today, a testament to inherited adaptive traits.

The Genetic Code and Inherited Curls

Scientific exploration has begun to illuminate the specific genetic markers that play a role in shaping hair texture. While no single gene acts alone, a concert of genetic variations contributes to the spectrum of curls and coils. For populations of African descent, where textured hair is most prevalent, studies point to a complex interplay of genes. For instance, the TRICHOHYALIN (TCHH) gene, which codes for a protein critical to the inner root sheath of the hair follicle, significantly influences hair shaft development and curl formation (Medland et al.

2009). Variations within this gene have been linked to differences in hair curliness across populations. Similarly, the PADI3 (Peptidyl Arginine Deiminase 3) gene, responsible for modifying structural proteins such as trichohyalin in hair follicles, also plays a part in defining hair texture. Genetic studies have found that variants in PADI3 are notably associated with the architecture of coiled hair, underscoring its deep influence on hair morphology.

The intricate interplay of these and other genes, such as FGFR2 and WNT10A , creates the vast array of textures that reflect our global human heritage. These genetic variations, though often subtle at a molecular level, manifest as the defining physical characteristics of our hair, connecting us directly to the genetic inheritance of our ancestors.

Unraveling Hair Structure

Beyond the curl pattern, genetics also contributes to other characteristics of textured hair, such as its diameter, strength, and lipid content. Hair from individuals of African descent often exhibits an elliptical cross-sectional shape and a higher density of disulfide bonds compared to straighter hair types. These disulfide bonds, formed between cysteine residues, contribute to the unique structural integrity of tightly coiled hair (Idowu et al. 2024).

This biological distinctiveness makes African textured hair more susceptible to mechanical damage due to its high curvature, yet it also means it possesses an elevated internal lipid content, offering inherent protective qualities. Understanding these structural attributes from a genetic perspective provides a framework for appreciating why certain traditional care practices, honed over centuries, align so precisely with the biological needs of textured hair. Our ancestors, through generations of observation and practice, discerned methods to preserve and nourish these unique strands, echoing a practical wisdom that modern science is only now fully quantifying.

A Legacy of Hair Classification

Throughout time, communities have devised ways to categorize hair, long before the advent of modern genetic studies. These traditional classifications, often based on visible curl patterns, feel, and growth habits, were not mere labels but deeply ingrained cultural descriptors. In many African societies, hair types were observed and understood as familial or tribal markers, reflecting lineage and group identity. The intricate patterns of braids and styles, passed down through generations, often corresponded to specific hair textures that lent themselves to such artistry.

While today’s scientific systems like the Andre Walker hair typing chart aim for universal categorization, they often fall short in truly encompassing the depth and diversity of African textured hair, which presents a spectrum of curl patterns, diameters, and densities even within a single head of hair. This inherent variability, rooted in diverse ancestral genetic pools, reminds us that the language of textured hair is as rich and varied as the people who wear it.

Ritual

The care and adornment of textured hair has always transcended mere aesthetics; it has been a profound ritual, a dialogue between the present moment and a living lineage. For generations, ancestral hands crafted not just styles, but statements of identity, community, and resilience, all shaped by the inherent qualities of the hair itself. This chapter explores how these practices, from ancient styling techniques to the tools that facilitated them, are deeply intertwined with the genetic characteristics of textured hair, echoing a wisdom that persists through time.

Styling Echoes of the Past

Traditional styling practices across African communities and within the diaspora developed in direct response to the unique properties of textured hair. The coiled, springy nature of hair, shaped by genetic factors determining its follicle structure and disulfide bonds, naturally lends itself to protective styles. Braids, twists, and cornrows, far from being simply decorative, served as essential methods for preserving length, reducing tangles, and minimizing breakage in hair that is structurally predisposed to dryness and fragility at its bends (Idowu et al. 2024).

Stone Age paintings from 3000 BCE in North Africa bear witness to women wearing braids, suggesting the deep roots of these protective strategies (xoNecole, 2024). What we today refer to as cornrows were known as Irun Didi by the Yoruba people, highlighting a practice that was not only practical but also maintained ease for extended periods (xoNecole, 2024). Similarly, Bantu Knots, named after the Bantu group of the Zulu people, functioned as a heatless curling method centuries before their modern resurgence (xoNecole, 2024). These styles were not just fashion; they were inherited technologies of hair preservation, passed down through families and communities, a direct response to the genetic blueprint of the hair.

Ancient braiding practices stand as enduring testaments to the deep connection between textured hair’s genetic structure and generations of adaptive care.

The Art of Traditional Tools

The tools employed in ancestral hair practices were crafted with an intuitive grasp of textured hair’s needs. From wide-tooth combs carved from wood, bone, or ivory, unearthed in archaeological sites in Kush and Kemet, to natural fibers and materials used for extensions, these implements were designed to navigate the hair’s unique structure with respect and care (CurlyTreats, 2025). The afro comb, an icon of Black identity, has existed for over 5,500 years, often buried with its owners, signifying hair’s sacred place (CurlyTreats, 2025). These tools, often hand-carved with symbols reflecting tribal identity or spiritual meaning, reveal that the act of styling was a ceremony, a cultural act, intimately connected to the hair’s very being.

The absence of modern conditioners or detanglers meant that tools had to work in harmony with the hair’s natural tendencies, preventing damage and promoting longevity. This deep understanding of hair’s genetic predisposition to curl and coil guided the crafting of every comb, every pick, ensuring that care was gentle and effective.

The deliberate design of these traditional tools speaks volumes about the knowledge accumulated over generations regarding hair’s inherent characteristics. The wide spacing of comb teeth, for instance, minimizes snagging and breakage on highly coiled strands, a problem exacerbated by finer-toothed implements. This knowledge was experiential, refined by observing how different methods interacted with varying curl patterns.

• Dukus ❉ Traditional headwraps in African regions like Ghana and Namibia, serving both functional and symbolic purposes, often protecting hair and signifying status.
• Irun Didi ❉ The Yoruba term for intricate braided styles, recognized today as cornrows, illustrating an ancient practice of hair artistry.
• Chebe Powder ❉ A traditional Chadian hair treatment from the Basara tribe, utilizing cherry seeds, cloves, and ground Chebe seeds to promote hair growth and moisture retention, demonstrating ancestral knowledge of botanical properties.

The Living Heritage of Adornment

Hair adornment, too, reflects the interplay of genetic makeup and cultural expression. The very ability of textured hair to hold intricate styles without slipping or unraveling, a testament to its unique structural properties, enabled the creation of elaborate cultural statements. Hair was a canvas for communication, signaling age, marital status, social rank, or even spiritual beliefs (The Kurl Kitchen, 2024). Enslavement sought to strip away this cultural identity, often through the forced shaving of heads (CurlyTreats, 2025).

Yet, the resilience of ancestral hair traditions persisted, with braids sometimes even encoding escape routes, transforming hair into a living map of resistance (The Kurl Kitchen, 2024, CurlyTreats, 2025). This powerful historical example demonstrates how the physical characteristics of textured hair, shaped by genetics, became instrumental in cultural survival and self-determination against oppressive forces. The very architecture of the hair, allowing for intricate styling, offered a hidden language of defiance.

Relay

The journey of textured hair, from its elemental biological roots to its profound cultural resonance, continues in a relay across generations. Understanding how genes influence textured hair extends beyond its physical attributes to encompass the holistic care practices and problem-solving strategies that have been refined over centuries. This section navigates the sophisticated interplay between ancestral wisdom and contemporary scientific understanding, revealing how the blueprint within our cells has always informed our approach to hair health and identity.

How Does Genetic Vulnerability Inform Traditional Hair Care?

The unique genetic architecture of textured hair, characterized by its elliptical follicle shape and highly coiled structure, also presents specific vulnerabilities. The very bends in the hair shaft, while creating its signature beauty, also represent points of mechanical weakness, making it more prone to breakage and dryness (Idowu et al. 2024). This inherent fragility, passed down through genetic lines, has always informed the development of meticulous care rituals within communities with textured hair.

For instance, the recognition of this susceptibility to damage led to the widespread adoption of low-manipulation styles and the generous application of emollients. Ancestral practices instinctively sought to fortify the hair against environmental stressors and daily wear, anticipating the very challenges modern genetics now elucidates.

Ancient Solutions for Hair Health

For millennia, communities relied on the earth’s bounty to formulate hair care solutions, a testament to observational wisdom and an innate understanding of hair’s biological needs. Natural oils and butters, often specific to certain regions, became cornerstones of these regimens. Shea Butter, widely used in West Africa, was valued for its ability to moisturize and protect hair from harsh elements, its richness addressing the natural tendency of textured hair to dry (Africa Imports, 2021).

Similarly, Marula Oil from Southern Africa and various blends featuring coconut oil or castor oil were employed for their conditioning and strengthening properties (Africa Imports, 2021, Sellox Blog, 2021). These applications, often involving generous quantities and frequent reapplication, intuitively counteracted the challenges posed by the hair’s structure and density, qualities influenced by genetic inheritance.

The use of specific plant-based cleansers, such as African Black Soap made from plantain skins and palm oil, or Rhassoul Clay from Morocco, provided effective, yet gentle, cleansing without stripping the hair of its essential oils, a critical consideration for hair types prone to dryness (Africa Imports, 2021). These ingredients, rooted in local ecosystems, were chosen not just for their availability, but for their observable benefits on hair that, unbeknownst to their users in scientific terms, had a genetically predisposed need for moisture retention and scalp health. The wisdom of these formulations represents a continuous adaptation to the biological realities of textured hair.

The Nighttime Sanctuary and Inherited Practices

The ritual of protecting textured hair during sleep, most notably through the use of bonnets and headwraps, carries a particularly potent historical and cultural weight. While sleep caps were present in European traditions for warmth, their adoption and transformation within the African diaspora were deeply tied to the need to preserve intricate hairstyles and maintain hair health against the friction of bedding (Byrdie, 2022). This practice, initially a practical necessity, became a symbol of self-care and cultural reclamation. During enslavement, head coverings were weaponized, forced upon Black women to strip them of their identity (Byrdie, 2022, Team True Beauty, 2023).

However, Black women reclaimed these headwraps, transforming them into expressions of creative and cultural defiance, using beautiful fabrics and adornments (Team True Beauty, 2023). The bonnet, in its modern form, is a direct descendent of this ancestral need to safeguard the unique genetic characteristics of textured hair overnight, preventing tangles and moisture loss that could lead to breakage. It is a daily ritual that honors the hair’s inherited structure and a legacy of self-preservation.

The genetic influence on hair’s propensity for breakage (due to its helical structure and susceptibility to friction) directly reinforces the ancient wisdom behind nighttime hair protection. This practice, passed down through generations, effectively mitigates the very challenges that arise from the hair’s intrinsic, genetically determined properties. It is a conscious act of care that speaks to a profound understanding of the hair’s living needs.

1. Rooibos Tea ❉ A South African tea, used as a hair rinse, its antimicrobial and antioxidant properties aid healthy hair growth.
2. Marula Oil ❉ A traditional oil from Mozambique and South Africa, applied for its moisturizing and antioxidant qualities.
3. Ghee (Butter) ❉ In some Ethiopian communities, clarified butter was used for hair care, providing conditioning and moisture.
4. Fenugreek ❉ An herb often found in ancestral hair oil blends, recognized for its benefits in promoting hair growth and strength.

Can Genetic Insights Advance Culturally Responsive Care?

Modern scientific discoveries regarding the genetic influences on textured hair, such as the role of the PADI3 gene in conditions like Central Centrifugal Cicatricial Alopecia (CCCA), offer a contemporary lens through which to view ancestral hair problems (Belgravia Centre, 2019). CCCA, a common scarring alopecia affecting women of African ancestry, has been linked to loss-of-function variants in the PADI3 enzyme, which modifies proteins essential for hair growth (University of Southern California, 2019). While certain intense hairstyling practices can contribute to CCCA, the underlying genetic susceptibility suggests a deeper, inherited predisposition. This scientific revelation does not diminish the historical understanding of hair health but rather provides a new layer of comprehension, allowing for the potential development of more targeted, genetically informed care strategies.

The convergence of ancestral wisdom and genetic knowledge means we can now build personalized textured hair regimens that are both historically resonant and scientifically sound. This integration respects the deep knowledge embedded in traditional practices while also leveraging modern understanding to address specific challenges, honoring the hair’s full biological and cultural legacy.

Reflection

Our journey through the landscape of textured hair, guided by the silent whispers of genes and the resonant calls of heritage, culminates in a powerful realization. The coils, the waves, the spirals that define textured hair are more than mere biological accidents; they are living chronicles, woven into the very fabric of our being, carrying the deep imprint of countless generations. Understanding how genes influence textured hair is to appreciate a profound lineage, a testament to humanity’s adaptation and cultural expression across continents and through time.

The scientific revelations of the TCHH and PADI3 genes, and their roles in shaping the very architecture of hair, offer a contemporary vocabulary for what our ancestors understood intuitively. They knew, through observation and inherited wisdom, the specific qualities of their hair—its thirst for moisture, its capacity for intricate designs, its need for gentle handling. These insights, passed down through hands that braided and nourished, birthed rituals of care that were, in essence, early forms of applied biology.

From the strategic protective styles that countered breakage to the use of indigenous botanicals that provided deep sustenance, each practice was a dialogue with the hair’s inherited characteristics. The very act of wearing a bonnet, now recognized as a vital tool for hair preservation, echoes the historical defiance of those who reclaimed their crowns amidst oppression. It is a continuum of care that speaks to resilience, identity, and the enduring connection to ancestral roots.

This exploration is a reminder that our hair, in its myriad forms, is a profound expression of heritage. It stands as a vibrant, breathing archive, holding within its living strands the stories of where we have come from, the wisdom that has been safeguarded, and the beauty that continues to flourish. The soulful quest to understand our hair is a testament to the enduring power of legacy, a celebration of the unique designs carried in our very being.