
Roots
To journey with Roothea is to step into a space where each strand speaks of ancestral wisdom, resilient spirit, and scientific wonder. We consider how CROWN laws defend textured hair, not as a dry legal matter, but as a living echo of generations, a testament to the enduring power of heritage inscribed within every curl, coil, and wave. Our focus is not merely on the legal statutes themselves, but on the profound human stories they hold, the lineage they protect, and the path they clear for authentic self-expression that connects deeply to Black and mixed-race cultural legacy.
How do these laws, in their modern construct, truly safeguard the inherent artistry and deep history of textured hair, honoring the very essence of its being? This inquiry calls us to reflect on the historical dismissal of hair as a mere aesthetic choice, rather than a sacred symbol of identity and belonging.

What is Textured Hair in a Heritage Context?
Textured hair, at its most fundamental, refers to hair that grows in a spiral or elliptical shape from the scalp, resulting in varying degrees of curls, coils, and kinks. This morphology lends itself to distinct properties ❉ a greater propensity for dryness due to the challenge of natural oils traveling down the hair shaft, and a unique elasticity that allows for incredible versatility in styling. From a heritage lens, textured hair is far more than a biological phenomenon; it is a repository of history. Across African civilizations, hair was, and remains, a powerful visual language, communicating social status, age, marital standing, tribal affiliation, and spiritual beliefs.
Intricate braiding patterns could signify a person’s community role or even act as maps for escape during periods of enslavement. This deep cultural significance highlights why the systematic denigration of textured hair during and after enslavement was, in essence, an act of stripping away identity and disconnecting individuals from their heritage.
CROWN laws protect more than hair texture; they safeguard a living heritage, acknowledging hair as a deeply rooted symbol of identity and cultural continuity.

How Does Hair Anatomy Tie to Ancestral Understanding?
The biology of textured hair, with its unique follicular structure and growth patterns, contributes to its beauty and resilience. Unlike straight hair, which typically grows from a round follicle, textured hair emerges from an oval or elliptical follicle, causing it to curl as it grows. This curvature creates points where the hair shaft is more fragile, necessitating gentle care and protective measures. Ancestral hair care practices, developed over millennia, intuitively understood these needs.
While modern science can now delineate the precise protein structures and cellular mechanisms, our forebears had practical wisdom. They knew how to maintain moisture, prevent breakage, and use natural elements to keep hair vibrant. This knowledge, passed down through generations, often in the communal act of hair styling, was not just about aesthetics; it was about the health and vitality of the hair itself, ensuring its ability to serve as a marker of identity and spiritual connection.
The understanding of hair cycles, too, held a place in ancient wisdom. Though not articulated in scientific terms, observing the shedding and growth of hair would inform practices, leading to the development of methods that supported healthy growth. The connection to the spiritual realm, where hair was seen as a conduit for energy and a link to ancestors, elevated hair care beyond mere grooming into a ritualistic act. This deep reverence meant that attention to hair’s well-being was an intrinsic part of life, a practice now supported by scientific insights into the factors that influence hair health, such as nutrition and environmental protection.
| Aspect of Hair Follicle Shape |
| Heritage Context (Ancient Wisdom) Visual observation of curl patterns informed styling. |
| Scientific Understanding (Modern Insights) Oval or elliptical follicle shape creates helical hair strands. |
| Aspect of Hair Moisture Retention |
| Heritage Context (Ancient Wisdom) Application of natural butters and oils to prevent dryness and breakage. |
| Scientific Understanding (Modern Insights) Curvature of hair shaft hinders natural sebum distribution, requiring external moisturization. |
| Aspect of Hair Styling Versatility |
| Heritage Context (Ancient Wisdom) Creation of intricate styles for communication and celebration. |
| Scientific Understanding (Modern Insights) Hair's elasticity and resilience allow for diverse coiling and intertwining. |
| Aspect of Hair The enduring wisdom of ancestral practices consistently aligns with modern scientific understanding of textured hair, recognizing its unique properties and needs. |

Ritual
The journey of textured hair through the ages is a ritual in itself, a continuous practice of care, styling, and expression that binds generations. CROWN laws step into this sacred space, seeking to protect the freedom to observe these rituals without fear of reprisal. These laws recognize that traditional hair styling is not simply a trend; it is a continuity of cultural practice, deeply rooted in ancestral legacy and personal identity. The ability to wear braids, locs, twists, or afros, as mandated by these laws, means preserving a tangible link to heritage, transforming historical markers of oppression into symbols of pride and self-determination.

How Have Protective Styles Preserved Heritage?
Protective styles, a cornerstone of textured hair care, have a story dating back millennia, serving both functional and symbolic purposes within African and diasporic communities. Beyond their practical benefit of reducing manipulation and protecting hair from environmental factors, these styles were, and remain, a canvas for expression and communication. In ancient Africa, the placement and pattern of braids could convey one’s age, marital status, or even tribal affiliation.
During times of enslavement, these styles took on subversive roles; braids sometimes carried seeds for future sustenance or even served as covert maps for escape. This speaks to the remarkable resilience and ingenuity embedded in hair practices, turning a simple act of grooming into a powerful act of survival and cultural preservation.
The CROWN Act, standing for “Create a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair,” directly addresses the long history of hair discrimination by extending legal protections to hair texture and styles such as braids, locs, twists, and knots in workplaces and public schools. Before this legislation, individuals with textured hair faced systemic bias, often compelled to alter their natural hair to conform to Eurocentric beauty standards perceived as “professional”. A 2023 study found that Black women’s hair is 2.5 times more likely to be seen as “unprofessional,” leading approximately two-thirds of Black women to change their hair, often from curly to straight, for job interviews (Dove and LinkedIn, 2023).
This statistic powerfully illuminates how deeply ingrained discrimination was, forcing a disconnect from heritage for economic and social mobility. The CROWN Act thus functions as a legal shield, allowing individuals to reclaim their authentic selves and cultural expression without professional repercussions, affirming that their natural hair, and the styles associated with it, are inherently professional and beautiful.

Do Traditional Hair Tools Reflect Historical Ingenuity?
The tools and techniques of textured hair styling are equally steeped in history. Before the advent of modern salons and products, communities relied on natural resources and ingenuity. Combs carved from wood or bone, tools for parting and sectioning, and implements for applying natural oils and butters were passed down through generations.
These tools were not just utilitarian; they were extensions of a communal ritual, often used in shared spaces where stories were told, wisdom imparted, and bonds strengthened. The very act of a mother braiding a child’s hair, or community members gathering for shared styling sessions, reinforced cultural ties and transmitted ancestral knowledge.
Consider the Bonnet, a seemingly simple accessory with a complex history. While versions of head coverings existed in various cultures, the hair bonnet’s significance in Black culture is tied to centuries of resilience. Initially, headwraps and bonnets (known as dukus and doek in some African regions) symbolized wealth, ethnicity, and marital status. During enslavement, these coverings were weaponized, forced upon Black women to distinguish them as enslaved and strip their identity.
Yet, Black women reclaimed these symbols, transforming them into expressions of creative and cultural pride, choosing vibrant fabrics and adornments. Later, the bonnet became a tool for maintaining hair health, especially protective styles, a practice passed down through generations. The current understanding and protection of such accessories by CROWN laws, even implicitly through protecting the styles they maintain, acknowledge this deep historical and cultural journey, ensuring the freedom to use such tools as part of an ongoing heritage of care.

Relay
The relay of knowledge, traditions, and resilience from one generation to the next forms the bedrock of textured hair heritage. CROWN laws represent a modern stride in this ongoing relay, a legislative effort to solidify protections for hair that has long been a target of Eurocentric beauty standards and discriminatory practices. These laws do not simply address contemporary instances of bias; they confront a historical legacy of control and erasure, providing a legal framework that supports the continuation of ancestral practices and self-acceptance. The interplay of legal statutes, historical context, and personal well-being is undeniable, revealing how law can become a guardian of cultural expression.

How Do CROWN Laws Safeguard Ancestral Wellness Philosophies?
At its core, hair care within many Black and mixed-race communities is a holistic practice, deeply connected to overall well-being, both physical and spiritual. Ancestral wellness philosophies often recognized hair as a conduit for spiritual energy, a connection to the divine, and a symbol of individual identity and community belonging. The regimen of radiance, therefore, was not merely about superficial beauty; it was about honoring this sacred part of self.
Ingredients used in traditional hair care often came directly from the natural world, their efficacy learned through generations of observation and application. Shea Butter, widely sourced from the karite tree in West Africa, has been a staple for millennia due to its exceptional moisturizing properties, protecting hair from dryness and promoting elasticity. Marula Oil, derived from the fruit kernels of the marula tree, common in Southern Africa, is celebrated for its antioxidant and emollient qualities, nourishing the scalp and strands. These natural elements were not randomly chosen; their selection was based on deep, accumulated wisdom about their benefits for textured hair.
Modern science now validates these traditional uses, demonstrating the rich vitamin and mineral profiles of these ingredients. CROWN laws, by upholding the right to wear natural styles that often rely on such holistic care, implicitly defend the continuation of these ancestral care rituals. They allow individuals to maintain hair in a way that respects its natural inclination and the wisdom of its heritage, rather than forcing chemical alteration or heat styling that can be detrimental to hair health.
The CROWN Act’s protections are a recognition of hair’s deeper cultural dimensions, allowing practices rooted in heritage to flourish without penalty.

What Influence Do Nighttime Rituals and Bonnets Carry?
The nighttime sanctuary, specifically the use of bonnets and head coverings for sleep protection, is a testament to both practical wisdom and a legacy of adaptation. Historically, headwraps and bonnets were worn in various African societies to signify status, but they also protected hair from environmental elements. During the brutal era of enslavement, head coverings were paradoxically enforced to dehumanize, yet simultaneously became a quiet act of resistance and a means to preserve cultural identity.
Post-slavery, the bonnet transitioned into an indispensable tool for protecting textured hair overnight, preserving styles, and maintaining moisture, thereby preventing breakage and promoting healthy growth. This seemingly simple garment, now protected from discriminatory scrutiny by the spirit of CROWN legislation, carries within its folds centuries of Black resilience and practical care.
The systemic nature of hair discrimination is well-documented. A 2019 study revealed that Black women are 1.5 times more likely to be sent home from the workplace due to their hair. Such statistics underscore the urgency of legal protections. The case of Chastity Jones, a Black woman who had a job offer rescinded in 2013 because she refused to cut her locs, illustrates the very type of discrimination CROWN laws aim to eradicate.
Although the 11th Circuit Court of Appeals ruled against her, stating that a ban on dreadlocks under a race-neutral grooming policy was not intentional race-based discrimination, this very ruling highlighted the loophole in existing civil rights laws. The CROWN Act directly addresses this, expanding the definition of race to include hair texture and protective styles, making it illegal to discriminate based on these traits. This legislative shift is a critical step in enabling individuals to maintain their hair according to their heritage, free from the threat of professional or educational penalties.
The relay of knowledge extends to understanding common textured hair problems and devising solutions, often combining ancestral wisdom with modern scientific advancements. For instance, the vulnerability of textured hair to dryness led to centuries of practices focused on sealing in moisture with oils and butters. The focus was not just on external application; holistic influences on hair health, such as diet and stress reduction, were also understood. Many traditional African societies had deep connections to the land and its offerings, utilizing specific herbs and botanicals for their fortifying and cleansing properties.
CROWN laws, by allowing people to wear their hair naturally, reduce the pressure to use harsh chemical straighteners or excessive heat, which can cause damage and contribute to hair loss conditions like traction alopecia. This legislative protection, therefore, does not just grant permission; it creates a space for ancestral approaches to hair health to thrive in the present day, ensuring that future generations inherit a legacy of natural care and uncompromised identity.
- Chebe Powder ❉ Hailing from Chad, this blend of herbs (including lavender crotons, cloves, and cherry seeds) is traditionally used to promote hair growth and retention by creating a protective, moisturizing coating on the strands.
- Rhassoul Clay ❉ A mineral-rich clay from the Atlas Mountains of Morocco, used as a gentle cleanser and detoxifier for hair and scalp, removing impurities without stripping natural oils.
- African Black Soap ❉ A traditional West African soap made from plantain skins, cocoa pods, and shea butter, used as a shampoo for its cleansing and nourishing properties, rich in antioxidants and minerals.
| Aspect Hair Straightening |
| Historical Practices (Pre-CROWN) Forced chemical treatments or hot combing to conform to Eurocentric standards. |
| Modern Practices (Post-CROWN) Choice to maintain natural texture without penalty, reduced pressure for chemical alteration. |
| Aspect Styling Freedom |
| Historical Practices (Pre-CROWN) Discrimination and rejection for natural styles in schools/workplaces. |
| Modern Practices (Post-CROWN) Legal protection for wearing styles like braids, locs, twists, afros. |
| Aspect Cultural Expression |
| Historical Practices (Pre-CROWN) Suppression of identity through hair-based policies. |
| Modern Practices (Post-CROWN) Empowerment and celebration of cultural identity through hair. |
| Aspect CROWN laws bridge the chasm of historical discrimination, allowing textured hair heritage to reclaim its rightful place in contemporary society. |

Reflection
As our exploration draws to a close, we return to the inherent vibrancy of each strand, a living archive of generations past, present, and yet to come. How do CROWN laws defend textured hair? They do so by recognizing the profound historical and cultural weight that hair carries for Black and mixed-race individuals. These legislative acts are not merely about preventing discrimination; they are about affirming identity, respecting legacy, and securing the freedom to express one’s inherited self in its fullness.
From the intricate artistry of ancient African braids to the protective wisdom held within the bonnet, each practice is a continuation of a heritage that defied erasure. By safeguarding the right to wear one’s hair in its natural state or in styles that honor ancestral traditions, CROWN laws reinforce the foundational truth that textured hair is a crown, a testament to resilience, beauty, and an unbroken lineage. It reminds us that true wellness begins with self-acceptance, an acceptance that blossoms when the echoes from the source are allowed to sing freely, when the tender thread of care is nurtured without compromise, and when the unbound helix of identity is celebrated without reservation. The journey of textured hair is, indeed, a living, breathing archive, and CROWN laws stand as a modern guardian of its timeless story.

References
- Dove and LinkedIn, 2023. CROWN Workplace Research Study.
- Economic Policy Institute. The CROWN Act ❉ A Jewel for Combating Racial Discrimination in the Workplace and Classroom. July 26, 2023.
- Afriklens. African Hairstyles ❉ Cultural Significance and Legacy. November 1, 2024.
- The Kurl Kitchen. The Cultural Significance Of Natural Hair In Different Communities. November 5, 2024.
- The Official CROWN Act.
- GovDocs. States with Hair Discrimination (CROWN) Laws in 2024 ❉ Interactive Map.
- The Gale Review. African Hairstyles ❉ The “Dreaded” Colonial Legacy. November 23, 2021.
- Helix Hair Labs. The History of the Hair Bonnet. March 3, 2023.
- Byrdie. The Significance and History of Bonnets. September 27, 2022.
- Nu Origins Magazine. Crowning Glory ❉ The Impact of the Crown Act on Hair Discrimination. September 25, 2023.
- Bebrų Kosmetika. The Power of Hair in African Folklore ❉ Rituals and Traditions. August 23, 2024.
- Cee Cee’s Closet NYC. The History of Bonnets. March 10, 2021.
- Kodd Magazine. African hair tells a story and inspires the future.
- McLane Middleton. Understanding Hair Discrimination and the CROWN Act. April 19, 2023.
- NPR. Congress reignites a bipartisan effort to ban hair discrimination. March 12, 2025.