How do CROWN Acts protect hair heritage?

Roots

There are stories etched not just in the memory of our elders, nor only in the deep grooves of ancient carvings, but within each strand of hair that crowns us. For Black and mixed-race people, hair is far more than a simple biological outgrowth. It is a living archive, a repository of generational wisdom, silent witness to centuries of adaptation, struggle, and sovereign beauty. To understand how contemporary movements, like the CROWN Acts, offer protection, we must first descend into the very beginnings of this heritage, to the elemental understanding of textured hair, both scientifically and culturally.

The fibers that spring from our scalps carry the echoes of distant lands, of the ancestral practices that once sustained communities. Each bend, coil, and ripple in textured hair speaks to an intricate biology, a unique architecture that sets it apart. The morphology of a hair strand, stemming from its follicle shape , shapes its destiny. Straight hair, for instance, springs from a more circular follicle, allowing for an unhindered path.

In stark contrast, coily and curly hair arises from follicles that are oval or flat, causing the strand to twist and spiral as it grows. This inherent curvature creates points of vulnerability, making textured hair more prone to tangling and breakage compared to straighter types. The internal scaffolding of the hair, composed of keratin protein, also plays a part. The arrangement and density of disulfide bonds within this protein contribute to the degree of curl, with more bonds yielding tighter coils.

(Myavana, 2024). This fundamental understanding of hair’s inherent structure is not just a scientific pursuit; it connects directly to how ancestral communities understood their hair and tailored practices around its unique nature.

What Does Hair Anatomy Tell Us About Shared Ancestry?

The very word ‘textured’ attempts to capture the immense spectrum of African hair, a spectrum often oversimplified by Western classification systems. These systems, like Andre Walker’s, while sometimes serving as a guide for care, sometimes carry the subtle imprint of historical biases, inadvertently ranking hair types based on their proximity to Eurocentric ideals. Earlier, more insidious systems, such as the “hair gauge” created by Eugen Fischer in the early 20th century, explicitly aimed to classify individuals based on hair texture to determine their “proximity to whiteness” (OurX, 2024).

This underscores a long, troubled history where science was twisted to serve discriminatory ends. Our lineage, however, reveals a rich and diverse tapestry, where hair was never a sign of inferiority, but a marker of identity, status, and collective belonging.

The very structure of textured hair, from its follicle shape to protein bonds, holds ancestral stories of unique biological adaptation and cultural understanding.

For generations, African societies utilized hairstyles as a complex visual language. A person’s braided patterns, the height of their sculpted coils, or the length of their locs could signify marital status, age, tribe, wealth, and even religious creed. These were not mere aesthetic choices.

They were profound expressions of self and community, a living lexicon passed through generations, where the act of grooming became a communal activity, strengthening familial bonds and preserving shared knowledge (Know Your Hairitage, 2024). The CROWN Acts, in their modern context, strive to honor this ancient language, ensuring that the very physical attributes of heritage are shielded from the judgment of discriminatory norms.

How Have Ancestral Hair Lexicons Survived Forced Assimilation?

The Transatlantic Slave Trade brought with it a deliberate campaign to dismantle the identity of enslaved Africans. One of the first dehumanizing acts was often the forced shaving of heads, a brutal severance from cultural roots and personal dignity. This was a direct assault on a deeply embedded aspect of their being, stripping away a visual link to their homelands and traditions (Know Your Hairitage, 2024).

Yet, even under such immense oppression, the ingenuity and spirit of those stolen continued. Despite the systemic efforts to erase cultural memory, ancestral practices found ways to persist, often in hidden forms.

The hair growth cycle, a seemingly universal biological process, also carries historical weight for textured hair. The relatively slower growth rate and the unique helical shape of coily strands mean that length can be perceived differently, and maintenance can demand specific care routines that are distinct from those suited for straighter hair types. Understanding these biological realities, alongside the enduring cultural memory, helps frame the historical context of hair discrimination. The CROWN Acts step into this lineage, recognizing that policies dictating “professionalism” often stem from a denial of this inherent biology and a disregard for its deep cultural meanings.

Ritual

From the earliest days of human settlement on the African continent, styling hair was a profound act, a living ritual reflecting social standing, marital status, and even spiritual connection. These practices were never simply about aesthetics; they were about belonging, identity, and the intricate visual language of heritage. The advent of CROWN Acts today directly speaks to the historical attempts to erase this visual language, to devalue Black hair and its styling practices in the public sphere. These legislative measures acknowledge a truth long understood by communities of African descent ❉ hair care and styling are deeply woven into the fabric of communal and individual life.

How Have Protective Styles Preserved Ancestral Memory?

Protective styling, a practice now widely recognized, traces its roots back thousands of years. Consider the intricate world of Cornrows, a style that dates back to 3500 BC in Namibia (Creative Support, 2022). These tightly braided rows, lying flat against the scalp, were not just decorative. In ancient African societies, they served as indicators of one’s community role or family background.

During the horrific period of the Transatlantic Slave Trade, these styles took on a new, urgent significance. Enslaved Africans, particularly rice farmers, sometimes braided rice seeds into their hair, a survival technique that allowed them to carry the literal seeds of their homeland to new, hostile environments (BLAM UK CIC, 2022). Cornrows also served as clandestine maps, charting paths to freedom, a silent defiance against the chains of bondage. These are not mere anecdotes; they are testimonials to hair as a vessel of endurance, ingenuity, and coded communication.

The diversity of protective styles — from Locs, which hold spiritual and philosophical significance for many, to twists and Bantu knots — represents a living encyclopedia of techniques passed down through generations. The very act of braiding or styling someone’s hair often became a deeply communal and social activity, a space for storytelling, sharing wisdom, and reinforcing community ties. These moments of care created intimate connections, fostering a sense of shared identity and mutual support (Know Your Hairitage, 2024). The CROWN Acts recognize these styles not as mere fashion choices, but as profound expressions of cultural heritage, demanding that they be protected from discrimination.

Hair styling, especially protective styles, has always served as a profound ritual, preserving cultural codes and community bonds through generations.

What Role Do CROWN Acts Play in Modern Hair Reclamation?

The journey from ancient practices to modern protection has been arduous. For centuries, Eurocentric beauty standards dominated, often casting natural Black hair textures and styles as “unkempt” or “unprofessional.” The early 20th century saw the widespread popularization of hair relaxers, with figures like Madam C.J. Walker building empires on products that straightened coiled hair, reflecting a societal pressure to conform (BLAM UK CIC, 2022). The “good hair” versus “bad hair” dichotomy, born from the brutal hierarchy of slavery, became a powerful and enduring social construct, shaping perceptions and limiting opportunities.

The natural hair movement of the early 2000s, bolstered by the rise of digital platforms, marked a significant shift. It spurred a collective awakening, encouraging Black people to celebrate their inherent hair textures without alteration. This movement was, and remains, a powerful act of reclaiming identity, a societal statement of pride in one’s origins (Halo Collective, 2023). It brought to the forefront the reality of hair discrimination, highlighting how individuals faced bias in schools, workplaces, and public spaces for simply existing authentically.

• Braids ❉ Ancient symbols of status and belonging, later became maps to freedom.
• Locs ❉ Spiritual markers in various African cultures, embodying wisdom and continuity.
• Afros ❉ A powerful symbol of Black pride and resistance during the Civil Rights era (BBC News, 2015).

The CROWN Acts step directly into this historical context. They are legislative responses to a persistent pattern of discrimination that, despite civil rights advances, continued to target racial characteristics often associated with Black identity. By expanding the legal definition of “race” to specifically include hair texture and protective hairstyles, these acts aim to close a legal loophole that allowed discrimination to persist under the guise of “grooming policies” (Economic Policy Institute, 2023).

They affirm the right of individuals to wear their hair in culturally traditional styles without facing adverse consequences in education or employment. The legislation provides a legal shield, allowing Black and mixed-race people to show up fully as themselves, honoring their heritage without fear of professional or academic repercussions.

Relay

The journey of textured hair is one of enduring resilience, a story passed from one generation to the next, a relay of wisdom and care. The CROWN Acts stand as a crucial baton in this relay, translating ancestral knowledge into legal protections for the modern age. This legislation recognizes that the policing of Black hair, deeply rooted in systems of racial hierarchy, has real, measurable impacts on well-being, educational attainment, and economic opportunities. To truly grasp the significance of these acts, we must look at how they address systemic issues and reshape societal perceptions, allowing holistic care and ancestral wisdom to thrive without external prejudice.

How Have Societal Norms Suppressed Hair Heritage?

For generations, Black and mixed-race individuals, especially women, have faced immense pressure to conform their hair to Eurocentric beauty standards. This pressure was not just social; it translated into tangible barriers. A 2023 research study revealed that Black women’s hair is 2.5 Times as Likely as white women’s hair to be perceived as “unprofessional” (Economic Policy Institute, 2023).

This statistic reveals the pervasive bias that existed, forcing many to alter their natural hair for job interviews or workplace acceptance. It was a choice between authenticity and opportunity, a choice that carried both psychological and financial costs.

Consider the experience of Chastity Jones in 2010. She received a job offer from Catastrophe Management Solutions, an insurance claims processing company in Alabama, which was then rescinded when she refused to cut her dreadlocks (EEOC v. Catastrophe Management Solutions, 2013). The company’s argument was that dreadlocks “tend to get messy” and did not align with their “professional and businesslike image” (MWH Law Group LLP, 2016).

The Equal Employment Opportunity Commission (EEOC) filed a lawsuit on her behalf, arguing that the policy constituted racial discrimination. Despite the EEOC’s contention that dreadlocks are a “determinant of racial identity” and “physiologically and culturally associated with people of African descent,” the Eleventh Circuit Court of Appeals ultimately sided with the employer, ruling that dreadlocks were a “mutable characteristic” and thus not protected under existing anti-discrimination laws (MWH Law Group LLP, 2016; OnLabor, 2016). This case vividly demonstrated the legal void that allowed hair discrimination to continue, highlighting the need for legislation like the CROWN Act.

The CROWN Acts address historical and ongoing discrimination against Black hair, which has been perceived as “unprofessional” and excluded from public spaces.

The impact extends beyond the workplace into educational settings. Children, at a very young age, encounter this prejudice. Data indicates that 100% of Black elementary school girls in majority-white schools who report experiencing hair discrimination state that they experience it by the age of ten (Dove, 2023).

Such experiences, from being sent home for wearing natural curls to being prevented from participating in graduation ceremonies due to locs, underscore the profound psychological harm inflicted by hair discrimination (Economic Policy Institute, 2023). These instances not only deny educational opportunities but also erode self-esteem and cultural pride, forcing conformity to a narrow, imposed standard of appearance.

How Do CROWN Acts Reinforce Ancestral Wellness and Identity?

The CROWN Acts intervene directly in this history of suppression by legally expanding the definition of “race” to include hair texture and protective hairstyles. This legal redefinition is significant because it provides a mechanism to challenge discriminatory policies and practices that previously went unchecked. The laws explicitly protect hairstyles like braids, locs, twists, and Bantu knots, affirming their place as legitimate expressions of racial and cultural identity (ADL, 2022). This legal recognition sends a clear message ❉ hair heritage is not a barrier to opportunity; it is a protected aspect of identity.

The legislation’s existence allows for a deeper connection to ancestral wellness philosophies. For centuries, African traditions viewed hair as a sacred link to ancestry, spirituality, and identity (Substack, 2025). Hair rituals were intertwined with spiritual practices, symbolizing a connection to the divine and ancestral wisdom. When communities engage in intentional hair care practices, they honor these connections, clearing energetic debris and strengthening spiritual protection (Substack, 2025).

The ability to wear one’s hair in its natural state, or in protective styles rooted in cultural practices, directly supports this holistic well-being. It permits individuals to live in alignment with their heritage, fostering self-acceptance and pride.

The passage of CROWN Acts, which began in California in 2019 and has since spread to numerous states (CROWN Act, 2024), is a testament to persistent advocacy and the growing recognition of systemic inequities. While a federal CROWN Act has passed the U.S. House of Representatives, it awaits consideration in the Senate, underscoring the ongoing nature of this struggle (Wikipedia, 2023; Briogeo Hair Care, 2023). These laws help dismantle the deeply entrenched notion that “professionalism” is synonymous with Eurocentric aesthetics, opening doors for Black and mixed-race individuals to fully express their cultural selves without fear of professional or academic exclusion.

This legal protection also indirectly supports the economic autonomy within the Black hair care industry. When individuals are free to wear their natural textures and protective styles, it validates and stimulates the market for products and services catering to these specific needs. This supports Black-owned businesses and creates economic opportunities that further reinforce community wealth and self-sufficiency, a modern echo of the entrepreneurial spirit demonstrated by figures like Madam C.J. Walker, albeit now with the freedom to celebrate natural texture rather than alter it for conformity.

1. Legal Redefinition ❉ CROWN Acts expand the definition of race to include hair texture and protective styles, addressing a historical legal void.
2. Societal Validation ❉ The laws affirm culturally significant hairstyles as legitimate expressions of identity, challenging Eurocentric beauty standards.
3. Economic Support ❉ Protection for natural hair boosts the market for Black hair care products and services, fostering community prosperity.

Reflection

The journey of textured hair, from its ancient origins to its contemporary struggles and triumphs, speaks to a heritage that is both deeply personal and universally resonant. The CROWN Acts stand as a testament to the enduring power of cultural memory and the unwavering spirit of those who carry it. They are not merely legislative texts; they are acknowledgements, declarations etched in law that the strands crowning Black and mixed-race individuals hold stories, histories, and spiritual connections that must be honored, not policed.

In recognizing the validity of hair textures and styles previously deemed “unprofessional” or “unacceptable,” these acts invite us to look beyond superficial appearances. They compel us to see the profound legacy in a coil, the strength in a loc, the wisdom in a braid. This is how the “Soul of a Strand” truly manifests ❉ not just as a biological reality, but as a living, breathing archive of ancestral ingenuity, resilience, and beauty.

The struggle for hair freedom is a struggle for selfhood, a quiet revolution that continues to reshape societal norms and foster a world where every hair heritage is celebrated as a unique, precious offering. As communities continue to champion and expand these protections, the legacy of textured hair will continue to unfold, vibrant and unbound, guiding future generations toward an even deeper appreciation of their inherited glory.