How Do CROWN Act Provisions Acknowledge Textured Hair Heritage?

Roots

To stand at the threshold of understanding the CROWN Act is to step into a lineage, a vibrant, living archive of hair. It is not merely a legal document, a dry collection of statutes, but a recognition, a resonant echo of countless stories etched into every coil, every strand, every loc. For those whose ancestry flows through the continent of Africa and its diasporic currents, hair is a chronicle, a symbol, a language spoken across generations.

This exploration begins by grounding ourselves in the elemental truths of textured hair, recognizing that the very fibers of its being carry the imprint of a rich, often contested, heritage. The CROWN Act, in its provisions, does not invent this acknowledgment; rather, it formalizes a truth long held within communities: that hair is never simply an adornment, but a profound expression of self and ancestral connection.

Understanding Textured Hair Biology through Ancestral Lenses

The intricate architecture of textured hair, from its elliptical follicle shape to the tight coiling of its keratin chains, speaks to a remarkable biological adaptation. This unique structure, often described as possessing varying degrees of curl patterns ❉ from broad waves to tightly wound coils ❉ has been misconstrued and devalued within societal norms shaped by Eurocentric aesthetics. Yet, within the wisdom of ancestral practices, this very complexity was understood as a sign of strength, a canvas for communication, and a conduit for spiritual connection.

For instance, the Yoruba people of Nigeria regarded hair as the most elevated part of the body, a spiritual antenna, and braided styles served to send messages to the gods (Oforiwa, 2023). This ancient understanding of hair’s inherent power stands in stark contrast to the historical imposition of standards that sought to render such natural forms as “unprofessional” or “unkempt” (McLane Middleton, 2023).

The CROWN Act stands as a significant marker, recognizing that the inherent structures of textured hair are not deviations but expressions of human diversity.

How Do Ancestral Hair Practices Inform Our Modern Understanding of Hair Anatomy?

Before the advent of modern microscopy, communities across Africa intuitively understood the needs of their diverse hair textures. They recognized the propensity for dryness, the need for protective styling, and the strength within collective care. This intuitive understanding, passed down through oral traditions and communal rituals, laid the groundwork for what modern science now validates: the importance of moisture retention, minimal manipulation, and protection from environmental stressors for textured hair health.

The very names given to traditional styles, like “protective styles,” speak to a deep, practical knowledge of hair anatomy and physiology, designed to shield strands from damage and encourage growth (Afriklens, 2024). This historical knowledge is a testament to sophisticated, empirical observation honed over millennia.

Classifying Textured Hair beyond Colonial Echoes

Modern hair classification systems, while attempting to categorize hair types, have often inadvertently perpetuated biases rooted in a history of devaluing textured hair. These systems, frequently based on curl pattern, can sometimes overlook the multifaceted nature of hair, including density, porosity, and strand thickness, which are equally important for understanding care needs. Historically, hair was classified not by numerical types, but by its social, marital, or tribal significance.

In West African societies in the 1400s, a person’s hairstyle could convey their social status, marital status, wealth, age, or even their surname (Creative Support, 2022). This ancestral classification was rich with meaning, reflecting a holistic view of the individual within their community, rather than a mere physical attribute.

The CROWN Act provisions, by explicitly naming styles like locs, cornrows, twists, braids, Bantu knots, and Afros, move beyond abstract definitions of “race” to acknowledge specific manifestations of textured hair that have been historically targeted for discrimination (Legal Defense Fund,; Congress.gov,). This specificity is a direct counter to the historical weaponization of hair texture to create social hierarchies, as seen during slavery where hair texture dictated privilege within plantation life (Historical Perspectives on Hair Care and Common Styling Practices in Black Women, 2025). The Act’s language thus serves as a powerful recognition of the concrete forms that textured hair heritage takes.

• Cornrows ❉ Intricate braids plaited close to the scalp, often in geometric or symbolic patterns, used historically across West African cultures to signify identity, status, and even as a means of communication or escape during enslavement (Afriklens, 2024; BLAM UK CIC, 2022).
• Locs ❉ Hair strands that are matted and intertwined to form rope-like sections, carrying deep spiritual and cultural significance in various African and diasporic communities, often symbolizing strength and connection to heritage (Davines, 2024).
• Bantu Knots ❉ A style where hair is sectioned, twisted, and then coiled tightly against the scalp, with roots in Southern African traditions and serving both protective and aesthetic purposes (Afriklens, 2024).

Ritual

As we move from the foundational understanding of textured hair, a new vista unfolds ❉ one where the hands of kin and community shape not just strands, but stories. This is the realm of ritual, where the daily acts of care and styling transcend mere grooming to become living traditions, connecting us to the deep currents of ancestral wisdom. The CROWN Act, in its legislative reach, steps into this intimate space, recognizing that the techniques and methods we employ for our hair are not arbitrary choices, but expressions steeped in a profound heritage. It is a recognition that the very practices of styling are part of a shared legacy, deserving of respect and protection.

Protective Styling as a Heritage Practice

The tradition of protective styling, deeply rooted in African cultures, extends far beyond contemporary beauty trends. These styles ❉ including box braids, twists, and cornrows ❉ were, and remain, ingenious methods to preserve hair health by minimizing manipulation and shielding strands from environmental exposure (Afriklens, 2024; Wikipedia,). This wisdom, born from centuries of observation and practice in diverse climates, reveals a sophisticated understanding of hair mechanics and long-term care.

Ancient Egyptians, for example, showcased elaborate hairstyles, with wigs and braids signifying social status and religious beliefs (Khumbula, 2024). The CROWN Act’s explicit inclusion of these styles, often targeted by discriminatory policies, acknowledges their functional value and, more importantly, their undeniable place as cultural artifacts, living remnants of ancestral ingenuity.

Consider the practice of hair oiling, a tradition passed down through generations in African and South Asian communities (Cécred, 2025; British Journal of Dermatology, 2024). Before modern formulations, natural butters and oils were used to retain moisture and protect hair (Historical Perspectives on Hair Care and Common Styling Practices in Black Women, 2025). This ritual, often a communal act, served not only to nourish the hair but also to strengthen social bonds, a tradition that persists today (Dermatologist, 2023). The Act’s protection of the styles that benefit from such care indirectly safeguards the continuation of these ancient wellness rituals.

How Do Traditional Styling Tools Carry Ancestral Memory?

The tools of textured hair styling are not simply implements; they are extensions of a rich heritage, each comb, pick, or thread carrying the memory of hands that have shaped generations of hair. From the early forms of combs found in ancient African communities to the intricate threading techniques, these tools facilitated the creation of styles that communicated identity, status, and spiritual beliefs (Oforiwa, 2023). The CROWN Act, by safeguarding the freedom to wear styles that require these traditional tools, helps preserve the context in which such implements are used, maintaining a tangible link to the past.

The historical journey of these tools is a testament to human adaptation and artistic expression. For instance, the afro pick, an iconic tool for shaping and maintaining the afro hairstyle, is believed to have origins dating back nearly 6000 years (Creative Support, 2022). Its presence in modern hair care is a direct line to ancestral practices, a symbol of self-acceptance and pride. The Act’s protection allows for the continued use and celebration of such tools, not just as functional items, but as carriers of cultural significance.

The Transformative Power of Hair in Identity

Hair has long served as a powerful medium for self-expression and cultural identity within Black and mixed-race communities. The styles chosen can be a declaration of personal identity, a symbol of heritage, and a connection to ancestry (Economic Policy Institute, 2023). The journey from the imposition of Eurocentric beauty standards during slavery, where hair was often shaved or forced into conforming styles, to the reclamation of natural hair, marks a significant path of resistance and empowerment (Nuevo Noir, 2024; Creative Support, 2022).

The CROWN Act acknowledges this transformative power, recognizing that the freedom to wear one’s hair in its natural state or in culturally significant styles is a fundamental aspect of identity and dignity. It seeks to undo centuries of policies that have deemed Black hair as “deviant” or “unprofessional” (Don’t touch my hair!, 2022).

The freedom to wear hair in its natural form or in culturally significant styles is a powerful declaration of identity and a connection to enduring heritage.

Relay

We now arrive at a juncture where the threads of biological truth and ancient ritual intertwine with the complex tapestry of contemporary society. This section delves into the intricate interplay between the CROWN Act and the ongoing legacy of textured hair heritage, moving beyond surface-level discussion to examine the profound impact of legal recognition on cultural continuity and individual well-being. Here, science meets social justice, and the deep roots of tradition find their voice in modern legislative frameworks, creating a relay of understanding from past struggles to future possibilities.

Does the CROWN Act’s Language Reflect the Full Spectrum of Textured Hair Heritage?

The CROWN Act, through its explicit definitions, makes a vital assertion: that discrimination based on hair texture and specific styles commonly associated with a particular race is indeed race-based discrimination (Legal Defense Fund,). This legislative clarity is a direct response to historical legal loopholes where courts often ruled that hairstyles were a choice, not an immutable racial characteristic, thus not protected under existing civil rights laws (JSTOR Daily, 2019; McLane Middleton, 2023). The Act’s enumeration of styles like locs, braids, twists, Bantu knots, Afros, and even tightly coiled or curled hair (Congress.gov,; Voyant Beauty,) provides a robust framework for protection. This specificity is crucial, as it directly addresses the ways in which Eurocentric beauty standards have historically policed Black hair in schools and workplaces (Economic Policy Institute, 2023).

However, the concept of “heritage” extends beyond a list of styles. It encompasses the spiritual, communal, and historical meanings embedded within these practices. The Act acknowledges this by recognizing styles “commonly or historically associated with race” (Colorado General Assembly,). This phrasing gestures towards the deep cultural roots of these hairstyles, acknowledging that they are not mere fashion statements but significant markers of identity and ancestral connection.

For instance, the Tignon Laws of 18th-century Louisiana, which forced free Black women to cover their elaborate hairstyles, illustrate a historical attempt to suppress this visual expression of heritage and social standing (Don’t touch my hair!, 2022; McLane Middleton, 2023). The CROWN Act directly counters such historical oppression by validating the open display of these hairstyles.

A 2019 Dove CROWN Research Study revealed that Black women are 1.5 times more likely to be sent home from the workplace because of their hair (The Official CROWN Act,). This stark statistic powerfully underscores the systemic nature of hair discrimination and the urgent need for legislation like the CROWN Act. The Act’s provisions directly address this pervasive issue, aiming to dismantle policies that have historically denied Black women and men opportunities based on their natural hair or culturally significant styles. By providing legal recourse, the Act seeks to level the playing field, ensuring that the expression of one’s hair heritage does not become a barrier to education or employment.

The CROWN Act provides a legal shield, affirming that cultural hair expressions are fundamental aspects of racial identity.

How Does the CROWN Act Intersect with the Ongoing Fight for Racial Justice?

The passage of CROWN Act provisions is a contemporary chapter in the long struggle for racial justice. It builds upon earlier civil rights legislation, which, while prohibiting race-based discrimination, often fell short in explicitly protecting against hair discrimination due to judicial interpretations that distinguished between immutable racial characteristics and mutable hairstyles (Legal Defense Fund,; McLane Middleton, 2023). The Act closes this loophole, recognizing that hair discrimination is, in essence, race discrimination (Economic Policy Institute, 2023).

This legislative action also carries significant implications for holistic well-being. The pressure to conform to Eurocentric beauty standards has led many Black individuals to chemically alter their hair, sometimes with adverse health effects (McLane Middleton, 2023; McGill Journal of Law and Health, 2022). By protecting natural and protective styles, the CROWN Act indirectly supports healthier hair practices, aligning legal protection with ancestral wisdom that prioritized the well-being of the hair and scalp. It acknowledges that hair is not merely aesthetic, but connected to physical and psychological health, and the freedom to care for it in ways that honor its natural state and cultural traditions.

1. Legal Precedent Setting ❉ The Act sets a clear legal precedent, defining hair texture and protective styles as protected racial characteristics, moving beyond the ambiguity of previous interpretations (Legal Defense Fund,).
2. Cultural Affirmation ❉ It provides a powerful affirmation of Black and mixed-race hair heritage, signaling that these expressions are valued and protected within the broader society (Voyant Beauty,).
3. Economic Equity ❉ By reducing discrimination in employment and education, the Act aims to foster greater economic equity for Black individuals, who have historically faced barriers due to their hair (Economic Policy Institute, 2023).

The movement behind the CROWN Act also highlights the continuing need for cultural competency training within institutions (IDRA, 2024). Understanding the historical and cultural significance of diverse hairstyles is vital for implementing the Act’s provisions effectively and fostering truly inclusive environments. The Act, therefore, serves as a catalyst for broader societal education, encouraging a deeper appreciation for the resilience and beauty of textured hair heritage.

Reflection

As the final light falls upon our exploration of the CROWN Act and its deep connection to textured hair heritage, we arrive at a quiet moment of contemplation. The journey through ancestral roots, daily rituals, and legislative relays reveals a profound truth: a strand of hair is never truly alone. It is a living filament, intertwined with history, culture, and the collective spirit of a people. The CROWN Act, in its essence, is more than a law; it is a declaration of reverence for this living heritage.

It whispers to every textured coil, every resilient loc, every artfully braided pattern: “You are seen. You are valued. You are protected.” This legislation contributes to a world where the soul of a strand is not just acknowledged, but celebrated, allowing the vibrant archive of textured hair to continue its story, unbound and free.

References

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• Afriklens. (2025). How African Hairstyles Reflect Identity: and Heritage.
• BLAM UK CIC. (2022). The History of Black Hair.
• Cécred. (2025). Understanding Hair Oiling: History, Benefits & More.
• Colorado General Assembly. (2020). HB20-1048. Race Trait Hairstyle Anti-discrimination Protect.
• Creative Support. (2022). The History of Black Hair.
• Davines. (2024). Protect Your Tresses: The Importance of Protective Hairstyles.
• Don’t touch my hair!: A guide to investigating race-based hair discrimination. (2022). Don’t touch my hair!: A guide to investigating race-based hair discrimination.
• Economic Policy Institute. (2023). The CROWN Act: A jewel for combating racial discrimination in the workplace and classroom.
• Historical Perspectives on Hair Care and Common Styling Practices in Black Women. (2025). Historical Perspectives on Hair Care and Common Styling Practices in Black Women.
• IDRA. (2024). Confronting Hair Discrimination in Schools ❉ A Call to Honor Black History by Protecting Student Rights.
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• Nuevo Noir. (2024). The history of Afro hair.
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• Strands of Inspiration: Exploring Black Identities through Hair. (2023). Strands of Inspiration: Exploring Black Identities through Hair.
• The Official CROWN Act. 2019 Dove CROWN Research Study.
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• Wikipedia. Protective hairstyle.
• The Person Beneath the Hair: Hair Discrimination, Health, and Well-Being. (2023). The Person Beneath the Hair: Hair Discrimination, Health, and Well-Being.
• Black Women Hair: We’re Still Dealing with Race-Based Hair Discrimination. (2022). Black Women Hair: We’re Still Dealing with Race-Based Hair Discrimination.
• British Journal of Dermatology. (2024). BC07 Hair oiling: a paradigm shift in the deep-rooted ritual from East to West.
• Congress.gov. (2020). Text – H.R.5309 – 116th Congress (2019-2020): CROWN Act of 2020.