Roots
There exists a whisper, ancient and persistent, within the very fabric of our being ❉ a silent song sung through the helix of a single strand. It speaks of journeys across continents, of wisdom passed through generations, of resistance etched into every curl and coil. For those whose lineage flows with the currents of Africa and its diaspora, hair is rarely a mere adornment.
It stands as a testament, a living archive of heritage, a deep, knowing connection to ancestral practices that shaped not just beauty rituals, but communities, identities, and spiritual pathways. When we speak of ancestral hair traditions and their influence on current legal protections, we are not simply discussing legal codes; we are acknowledging the profound, often painful, and ever-present dialogue between the spirit of a people and the laws that seek to define their place.
The Ancestral Understanding of Textured Hair
Centuries before microscopes unveiled the intricate architecture of hair, diverse African societies recognized the unique properties of textured strands. This knowledge, passed down through oral traditions and communal practice, informed every aspect of hair care and styling. Each twist, braid, or loc held a symbolic weight, representing social status, marital availability, age, tribal affiliation, or even a spiritual state. The very act of caring for hair, often a communal ritual, fostered bonds and reinforced cultural values.
It was a language spoken through touch, through careful parting and coiling, through the application of natural elixirs drawn from the earth. This understanding was not just superficial; it represented a profound, lived wisdom of the hair’s structure and its intrinsic connection to well-being.
The intrinsic connection between textured hair and identity, forged in ancestral practices, has always been a powerful, unspoken language.
Consider the varied densities, the unique curl patterns ranging from soft waves to tightly coiled formations, each responding differently to moisture and manipulation. Ancestors recognized these variations, developing specific techniques and botanical remedies tailored to promote health and resilience. They understood, for instance, that certain oils provided lubrication to minimize friction along the hair shaft, preventing breakage, a practical wisdom now affirmed by modern science.
The protective styles, worn for weeks or months, were not simply decorative; they guarded the hair from environmental stressors and allowed for natural growth. This foundational knowledge, born of necessity and ingenuity, laid the groundwork for contemporary understandings of textured hair’s biological makeup and its unique needs.
A Legacy of Hair Classification and Language
The lexicon surrounding textured hair today, though often framed by modern scientific terms, echoes ancient understandings. While contemporary classification systems like those using numbers and letters attempt to categorize curl patterns, traditional societies possessed nuanced descriptors rooted in observation and cultural significance. For example, some terms might have referenced the hair’s resemblance to specific plants, animals, or natural phenomena, linking hair deeply to the surrounding world. This historical lens reveals that the desire to understand and categorize hair is not new, but rather an enduring human endeavor, albeit one that has historically been fraught with bias when Eurocentric standards were imposed.
The very words used to describe Afro-textured hair, when stripped of colonial influence, possess a lyrical precision. These words speak of resilience, vitality, and beauty, reflecting a celebration of natural form. Sadly, this rich vocabulary was often suppressed or replaced by derogatory terms during periods of enslavement and colonization, contributing to a devaluation of textured hair that persists even today. It underscores how language itself can be a tool of both empowerment and oppression, shaping perception and, ultimately, informing the need for legal recognition of hair as an aspect of racial identity.
Ritual
The journey from ancestral understanding to contemporary practice is not linear, but rather a spiraling dance, a constant dialogue between old ways and new realities. Within this dance, the art and science of textured hair styling emerges as a profound expression of heritage, a living continuum where legal protections now intervene to safeguard what was once an intimate, self-defined ritual. The styles themselves ❉ braids, locs, twists, coils ❉ are not merely aesthetic choices; they are historical texts, encoded with meaning, resilience, and identity, now standing at the forefront of legal discourse.
Styling as a Form of Identity and Resistance
Throughout history, textured hair has been a canvas for storytelling and a banner of identity. In many African societies, the styling of hair was an elaborate, time-consuming process, often performed by skilled artisans whose hands communicated generations of knowledge. These styles were deeply intertwined with community life, spiritual beliefs, and social hierarchy. When enslaved Africans were stripped of their cultures, their hair became one of the few remaining conduits for connection to their origins.
Braids, for example, were sometimes used to map escape routes or conceal seeds for future cultivation, transforming a simple hairstyle into a quiet act of defiance and survival (Byrd and Tharps, 2001). This deep-seated cultural significance is the very pulse that informs the fight for legal recognition today, demanding that the law acknowledge hair as an intrinsic component of racial identity.
In the aftermath of slavery and throughout the eras of segregation, Eurocentric beauty standards were aggressively imposed, creating a climate where natural Black hair was often deemed “unprofessional,” “messy,” or “unruly”. This societal pressure led many to chemically alter their hair, a practice often accompanied by physical damage to the scalp and hair itself. The ongoing struggle for acceptance of natural hair, therefore, is not merely a preference for one aesthetic over another; it represents a reclamation of self, a rejection of oppressive norms, and a re-affirmation of ancestral heritage.
Styling textured hair transcends mere aesthetics, acting as a historical text of cultural meaning and enduring resilience.
How Do Protective Styles Reflect Ancestral Ingenuity?
Protective styles, a cornerstone of textured hair care today, derive directly from ancestral practices. Styles such as braids, locs, and twists, passed down through generations, were originally crafted to safeguard hair from the elements, minimize manipulation, and promote length retention. They allowed for ease of daily life, particularly in demanding climates or during arduous tasks, while also providing a means of communal bonding during their creation. These traditions provided a blueprint for modern hair care, emphasizing the importance of low-tension styling and cuticle preservation.
- Cornrows ❉ Originating in various African cultures, these close-to-the-scalp braids once conveyed social status, religious devotion, or tribal identity. Today, they remain a versatile and protective style, safeguarding the scalp and hair from environmental damage.
- Locs ❉ Formed by the deliberate coiling or intertwining of hair strands, locs hold immense spiritual and cultural significance in many African and diasporic communities, symbolizing spiritual journeys, wisdom, and ancestral connection. Their protective qualities lie in their minimal manipulation and long-term wear.
- Bantu Knots ❉ A style with roots in Southern Africa, where the Bantu people are prominent. These tightly coiled buns protect the ends of the hair, prevent tangling, and can set a curl pattern without heat.
The contemporary legal movement, championed by measures like the CROWN Act, directly addresses the historical prejudice against these very styles. The CROWN Act, standing for “Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair,” prohibits discrimination based on hair texture and protective hairstyles such as afros, braids, locs, twists, and Bantu knots in workplaces and schools. California became the first state to pass this legislation in 2019, followed by numerous other states. This legislative shift acknowledges that policies banning these styles are not neutral grooming standards, but rather manifestations of systemic racism that disproportionately impact Black individuals.
The Tools of Transformation: Past and Present
The implements used for styling textured hair have evolved, yet their purpose often mirrors those of ancient tools. From meticulously carved bone combs and wooden picks used in ancient Egypt and other African civilizations to the wide-toothed combs and natural bristle brushes of today, the focus remains on gentle detangling and preserving the hair’s integrity. The transition from tools crafted from natural materials to those of plastic and metal reflects technological advancement, but the foundational principles of care remain constant, underscoring a continuous lineage of hair wisdom.
The legal battles surrounding hair often point to a clear divide: the perception of certain styles as “unprofessional” against their cultural significance. In 2010, Chastity Jones had a job offer rescinded because she refused to cut her locs, with the company reportedly stating, “They tend to get messy”. The Equal Employment Opportunity Commission (EEOC) filed a suit on her behalf but lost, with the court upholding the decision that braids were not an immutable racial characteristic. This outcome, though a setback at the time, galvanized further advocacy, highlighting the urgent need for laws like the CROWN Act to explicitly define hair texture and protective styles as protected characteristics under race discrimination laws.
Relay
The journey of textured hair, from its ancient ceremonial roots to its contemporary legal battles, forms a relay race across time, where the baton of heritage is passed from one generation to the next. The current surge in legal protections represents a collective societal awakening, acknowledging that discrimination against textured hair is not merely an issue of appearance, but a direct assault on racial identity, cultural expression, and the very essence of personhood. This understanding now permeates legal frameworks, demanding a deeper examination of how ancestral practices directly inform and necessitate current legislative efforts.
The Legal Frameworks of Hair Protection
For decades, general anti-discrimination laws like Title VII of the Civil Rights Act of 1964 prohibited employment discrimination based on race, but they often failed to explicitly cover discrimination against hair texture and culturally significant hairstyles. This created a loophole where employers and schools could enforce grooming policies that, while appearing “race-neutral,” disproportionately targeted Black individuals and their natural hair. Court rulings, such as the 1981 case of Rogers v.
American Airlines, where the court sided with the airline in demanding a Black woman not wear braids, established a problematic legal precedent that braids were not an “immutable racial characteristic” and therefore not protected under Title VII. This ruling, and others like it, underscored the urgent need for more precise and encompassing legislation.
The CROWN Act, first introduced in 2019, directly responds to this historical oversight. It explicitly states that discrimination based on hair texture and protective styles ❉ such as locs, cornrows, twists, braids, Bantu knots, fades, and afros ❉ is prohibited. This legislation recognizes that these styles are intrinsically tied to racial identity and heritage, and policing them constitutes racial discrimination. As of late 2023, 24 states had passed the CROWN Act, signifying a growing national consensus on this issue.
The movement extends beyond the United States; campaigners in the UK are also pushing for explicit protections for Afro hair under the Equality Act 2010. These laws represent a significant step in aligning legal understanding with lived experiences, providing tangible recourse against biases rooted in Eurocentric beauty norms.
Ancestral Ties to Legal Advocacy
The legal arguments supporting hair protections frequently reference the historical and cultural significance of textured hair. This is not merely rhetorical flourish; it provides the crucial context necessary for courts and legislators to understand why these styles are so deeply intertwined with race and identity. For example, the New York City Commission on Human Rights, in its 2019 guidance, declared that “anti-Black bias also includes discrimination based on characteristics and cultural practices associated with being Black, including prohibitions on natural hair or hair styles most closely associated with Black people”. This explicit recognition of cultural practices as protected characteristics represents a direct influence of ancestral traditions on modern legal interpretation.
The push for legal protections also finds resonance in the experiences of Indigenous communities. For many Native American nations, long hair is a symbol of ancestry, spiritual belief, and life itself. The practice of forcibly cutting the hair of Native American children in boarding schools throughout history was a deliberate act of cultural eradication, a stark reminder of how hair has been used as a tool of oppression. Cases involving Native American students fighting for the right to wear traditional long hair in schools, often citing religious freedom or cultural expression, highlight a parallel struggle for legal recognition of hair as a protected characteristic tied to heritage.
For instance, in a 2010 case, a federal appeals court ruled that a Texas school district violated an American Indian student’s religious rights by seeking to restrict his long, braided hair, which symbolized his ancestry and religious beliefs. Such rulings underscore how deeply personal cultural practices, often tied to hair, compel legal intervention.
A significant body of research underscores the psychological and economic impact of hair discrimination. A 2020 study from Michigan State University and Duke University, “The Natural Hair Bias in Job Recruitment,” found that Black women with natural hairstyles are less likely to receive job interviews compared to White women or Black women with straightened hair. Beyond economic barriers, individuals who face hair discrimination experience significant physical and psychological harm, being forced to choose between their livelihood or education and their cultural identity. The CROWN Act and similar legislation are not just about protecting hairstyles; they aim to dismantle systemic racism and ensure that individuals are not penalized for embodying their racial and cultural heritage.
- Educational Impact ❉ Policies banning natural hairstyles have led to Black children being removed from classrooms and denied educational opportunities. 66 percent of Black girls in majority-white schools reported experiencing hair discrimination.
- Workplace Consequences ❉ Over 20 percent of Black women aged 25-34 have been sent home from their jobs due to their hair (Dove and LinkedIn, 2023). This statistic highlights the tangible consequences of discriminatory grooming policies.
- Health Considerations ❉ The pressure to conform to Eurocentric standards often involves chemical relaxers or excessive heat styling, which can cause severe damage such as breakage, hair loss, and conditions like traction alopecia.
The Unbound Helix: Shaping Futures through Legal Protection
The work to establish legal protections for textured hair is a continuous effort, a weaving of present-day justice with the threads of ancestral wisdom. These laws do more than prohibit discrimination; they affirm the right to self-expression, promote inclusivity, and allow individuals to honor their heritage without fear of penalty. The focus is now shifting from merely preventing harm to actively cultivating environments where diversity is celebrated, and traditional hair practices are seen not as obstacles, but as expressions of rich cultural legacies.
The very existence of laws like the CROWN Act sends a powerful message that societal norms are evolving. It encourages institutions ❉ schools, workplaces, and public spaces ❉ to review and revise grooming policies, incorporating clear language that explicitly prohibits discrimination based on hair texture or style. This shift is not just about compliance; it fosters a deeper understanding and appreciation for the diverse beauty of textured hair and the historical weight it carries. It validates the experiences of countless individuals who have faced microaggressions or overt discrimination, providing a foundation for a more equitable future where every strand can be worn with pride, truly unbound by prejudice.
Reflection
As the final light catches the resilient coils and vibrant patterns, we are left with a quiet understanding: the laws now emerging to shield textured hair are not simply modern decrees. They are echoes, resonant and clear, from the source. They are born from the whispered wisdom of generations, from the tender care rituals passed down through time, and from the unbound helix of identity that refused to be confined.
Each legal victory, each CROWN Act passed, serves as a testament to the enduring power of ancestral traditions, a deep bow to the rich heritage that flows through every strand. It is a commitment, a promise, to honor the sacred, living archive that is textured hair, ensuring its story of strength, beauty, and cultural resonance continues to unfold for all who come after.
References
- Byrd, Ayana D. and Tharps, Lori L. (2001). Hair Story: Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. St. Martin’s Press.
- Owens Patton, Tracey. (2006). “Hey Girl, Am I More Than My Hair?” Women & Language, 29(2), 27-32.
- Kempf, Jennifer L. et al. (2024). “Hair Discrimination Manifests When Schools Enforce Grooming Policies that Penalize Black Students.” Journal of School Health.
- Robinson, Dena Elizabeth, and Robinson, Tyra. (2020). “Between a Loc and a Hard Place: A Socio-Historical, Legal, and Intersectional Analysis of Hair Discrimination and Title VII.” Journal of Race, Religion, Gender and Class.
- Powell, Crystal. (2019). “Bias, Employment Discrimination, and Black Women’s Hair: Another Way Forward.” Brigham Young University Law Review, 2018(4), 933-968.
- Mbilishaka, Ona. (2017). “The Psychology of Black Hair: Hair as a Sacred Identity Marker.” Journal of Black Psychology, 43(4), 317-340.
- Teterud v. Gillman, 385 F. Supp. 153 (S.D. Iowa 1974).
- A.A. v. Needville Independent School District, 5th Circuit, 2010.