How did oiling textured hair build community bonds?

Roots

Step into a realm where strands tell stories, where each curl and coil carries the whispers of generations past. For those with textured hair, the very act of care is not merely a regimen; it is a profound dialogue with ancestry, a living archive of identity. How, then, did the seemingly simple practice of oiling textured hair transcend mere grooming to forge community bonds, strengthening the very fabric of Black and mixed-race experiences across time and continents? This exploration begins at the source, delving into the biological foundations and historical practices that reveal oiling as a sacred, communal heritage.

The Ancestral Science of Hair Structure

To truly grasp the significance of oiling, we must first appreciate the unique architecture of textured hair. Unlike straight hair, which tends to have a more uniform, cylindrical shape, textured strands are often elliptically flattened, exhibiting a complex helical twist. This spiraling form, while visually striking, creates numerous points where the cuticle, the hair’s protective outer layer, lifts.

Such lifted cuticles, though natural, render textured hair more susceptible to moisture loss and dryness. This inherent characteristic made oiling not just a preference, but a fundamental act of preservation in ancestral communities.

Consider the biological imperative ❉ moisture retention. In diverse African climates, from the arid stretches to humid zones, protecting hair from environmental stressors was paramount. The very structure of textured hair meant it required more external lipid application to maintain its integrity and pliability. This biological need converged with cultural wisdom, leading to the systematic use of natural oils and butters.

Ancient Traditions and Botanical Wisdom

Long before modern science quantified lipid layers or cuticle integrity, African communities possessed an intuitive, profound understanding of hair’s needs. Ethnobotanical studies reveal a rich pharmacopoeia of plants used for hair treatment and care. For instance, in the Karia ba Mohamed region of Northern Morocco, a survey identified 42 plant species across 28 families used traditionally for hair care, with many applied topically for strengthening, revitalizing, and addressing concerns like hair loss and dandruff (Mouchane et al.

2024). This collective knowledge, passed down through oral traditions and hands-on teaching, formed the bedrock of hair care heritage.

The communal application of natural oils transformed a personal necessity into a shared act of cultural preservation.

The practice of oiling was not a solitary affair; it was a communal activity, a moment of shared presence. Mothers, grandmothers, and aunts would gather, often on Sundays, to care for the younger generations’ hair, detangling, moisturizing, and braiding (Obé, 2024). This shared experience cemented familial and communal ties, transforming hair care into a living lesson in heritage and connection. These were not just grooming sessions; they were intergenerational dialogues, where stories were exchanged, wisdom imparted, and bonds deepened under the soothing rhythm of fingers working oil into coils.

• Shea Butter ❉ A staple across West Africa, known for its moisturizing and protective properties, often used to seal in moisture and condition hair.
• Coconut Oil ❉ Widely used for its ability to penetrate the hair shaft, providing deep nourishment and reducing protein loss.
• Jojoba Oil ❉ While originating in indigenous American cultures, its similarities to the scalp’s natural sebum made it a valued addition to Black beauty traditions, particularly gaining prominence in the 1970s natural hair movement as an act of resistance against Eurocentric beauty ideals.

The Lexicon of Textured Hair Through Time

The language surrounding textured hair itself reflects a heritage of understanding and adaptation. Terms like “kinky,” “coily,” and “nappy,” once weaponized by oppressive systems to denigrate Black hair, are now reclaimed as descriptors of beauty and identity within the community (Hill, 2024). This linguistic reclamation is a testament to the resilience of a people who transformed symbols of subjugation into markers of pride. The consistent application of oils played a role in managing these textures, making them more pliable for styling and less prone to breakage, thereby supporting the aesthetic and symbolic expressions of hair within communal contexts.

The historical significance of hair in African societies meant that hair groomers held unique skills, upholding local standards of beauty and communal expression. Hair traditions often signified marital status, age, religion, wealth, and rank in pre-colonial Africa (Know Your Hairitage). The tools used, though simple, were integral to these practices. Early combs were often crafted from wood, bone, or metal, and enslaved individuals, deprived of their traditional implements, even resorted to using sheep fleece carding tools to untangle their hair (Byrd & Tharps, 2001).

Ritual

As we move from the elemental understanding of textured hair’s unique structure and its ancestral remedies, a deeper appreciation for the communal ritual of oiling emerges. Perhaps you, too, recall those Sunday afternoons, steeped in the scent of warmed oils, the gentle tug of a comb, and the murmur of conversation. This is not merely about applying a product; it is about stepping into a lineage of care, a shared inheritance that has shaped the very experience of textured hair across generations. The traditions surrounding oiling are living threads, connecting past to present, informing our understanding of hair as a social, rather than purely individual, entity.

Protective Styling and Ancestral Roots

Oiling textured hair was, and remains, an integral step in the creation and maintenance of protective styles. These styles, from cornrows to Bantu knots, have roots deeply embedded in African history, serving not only aesthetic purposes but also practical ones, protecting the hair from environmental damage and promoting length retention (Obé, 2024). The application of oils and butters before, during, and after braiding or twisting ensured the hair remained moisturized and less prone to breakage within these styles. This sustained the hair’s health, allowing for the intricate, symbolic styles that communicated identity, status, and even spiritual beliefs in pre-colonial African societies (Afriklens, 2024).

In many African cultures, the time spent on intricate braiding styles, which could take hours or even days, was a dedicated period for bonding and community among women (Livara Natural Organics, 2023). This shared activity created a space for social solidarity, allowing community members to exchange stories, offer advice, and provide support, especially vital for maintaining morale among enslaved populations (Afriklens, 2024).

Consider the historical example of enslaved Africans who, despite being stripped of their cultural tools and practices, found ways to continue their hair traditions. Though often forced to shave their heads as a means of dehumanization, braiding persisted as a quiet act of resistance and preservation of African identity (Obé, 2024). Oils, though scarce, would have been precious commodities, used to aid these enduring practices. The Federal Writers’ Project slave narratives even recount instances of enslaved people using makeshift tools and available fats like bacon grease or butter to care for their hair, demonstrating the profound drive to maintain these rituals (Library of Congress).

How Did Shared Hair Rituals Strengthen Community Bonds?

The act of oiling, often preceding or accompanying braiding and styling, transformed personal grooming into a communal ritual. This collective engagement served as a powerful mechanism for reinforcing social structures and transmitting cultural knowledge. In pre-colonial Africa, hair care was a social activity that strengthened familial bonds (Know Your Hairitage).

• Intergenerational Learning ❉ Younger generations learned techniques and the significance of hair care from elders, ensuring the continuity of cultural practices.
• Storytelling and Shared Experiences ❉ The hours spent on hair care provided a setting for oral traditions, where histories, wisdom, and daily experiences were shared, fostering a sense of collective identity.
• Mutual Aid and Support ❉ Community members assisted one another, particularly during times of hardship, demonstrating care and solidarity through the physical act of hair tending.

This dynamic was particularly evident during slavery in America. Sundays, often the only day of rest, became a time for communal hair care among African Americans. “Aunt Tildy” Collins, in the Born in Slavery ❉ Slave Narratives from the Federal Writers’ Project, described her mother and grandmother preparing her hair for Sunday school, using a “jimcrow” comb before threading or plaiting it to achieve defined curls (Library of Congress). This collective effort, even under brutal conditions, underscored the enduring importance of hair care as a source of comfort, identity, and community connection.

From Survival to Self-Expression

The journey of oiling textured hair, from a necessity for survival to a powerful form of self-expression, mirrors the broader narrative of Black resilience. During periods of forced assimilation, hair was often a site of control and resistance. Slave owners sometimes demanded hair be shaved to strip identity (Noireônaturel, 2024).

Yet, the communal care of hair, including oiling, became a quiet act of defiance, a way to maintain a connection to heritage and self. Ayana Byrd and Lori Tharps, in Hair Story ❉ Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America, document this complex relationship, from 15th-century Africa through the evolving landscape of Black hair in America (Byrd & Tharps, 2001).

Today, the natural hair movement celebrates all textures, encouraging individuals to embrace their unique curls, coils, and kinks (Obé, 2024). Oiling remains a cornerstone of this movement, a tangible link to ancestral practices, grounding modern routines in a rich historical context. This continuum speaks to the power of tradition to adapt, persist, and continue building community across time.

Relay

As we ascend to a higher vantage point, the inquiry into how oiling textured hair built community bonds reveals layers of meaning that stretch beyond mere physical application. What, then, does the enduring legacy of oiling tell us about the profound interplay between ancestral wisdom, cultural resilience, and the very expression of identity within Black and mixed-race communities? This section delves into the deeper currents of this practice, drawing connections between historical data, social psychology, and the living narratives that continue to shape the textured hair experience.

The Psychology of Shared Grooming

The act of oiling, when performed communally, taps into fundamental human needs for connection and belonging. From a socio-psychological perspective, these shared grooming rituals provided a consistent, intimate space for individuals to affirm one another’s identity and worth, particularly in environments where external society sought to devalue Blackness. The physical touch involved in oiling and styling, often performed by a trusted family member or community elder, communicated care, acceptance, and a deep understanding of one’s heritage. This tactile exchange fostered a sense of security and belonging, critical for psychological well-being.

A significant aspect of this bonding is the “grammar of hair,” a concept proposed by Rosado (2003), which suggests that shared hair grooming practices and styles among the diaspora reveal connections between African descendants and sub-Saharan Africa. This “grammar” allows women of African descent to connect and communicate, countering the separation caused by colonization (Nyela, 2021). This implies that the very act of oiling and styling becomes a form of non-verbal communication, a shared language that reinforces communal identity.

Oiling rituals, often passed down through generations, became conduits for ancestral knowledge and cultural continuity, reinforcing identity against societal pressures.

The Economic and Social Networks of Hair Care

Beyond the immediate family, the communal aspect of oiling extended into broader economic and social networks. In many communities, hair care, including the preparation and application of oils, supported a localized economy. From individuals cultivating and preparing natural ingredients to “kitchen beauticians” providing services in homes, these networks sustained livelihoods and reinforced community self-sufficiency. After slavery, as Black communities gained more autonomy, beauty salons and barbershops emerged as vital social and economic hubs (African American Registry).

These establishments became more than just places to get hair done; they were forums for discussion, gossip, political discourse, and mutual support (African American Registry). The shared experience of oiling and styling, whether in a private home or a bustling salon, created an environment where community bonds were not just maintained but actively strengthened. This social infrastructure, built around hair care, became a testament to the ingenuity and solidarity of Black people.

For instance, Madam C.J. Walker, a pioneer in the Black hair care industry, built an empire around products tailored for Black women, including oils and pomades, creating economic opportunities and empowering women through her network of sales agents (Library of Congress, 2016). Her work, rooted in understanding the unique needs of textured hair, contributed to a broader movement of self-care and communal upliftment. While her methods sometimes involved straightening, the underlying principle of specialized care for Black hair, often involving oils, became a cornerstone of communal well-being.

Oiling as Resistance and Reclamation

The practice of oiling textured hair has also been a quiet, yet potent, act of resistance against Eurocentric beauty standards. During slavery, and even post-emancipation, there was immense pressure for Black individuals to conform to straight hair ideals (Hill, 2024). This often involved harsh chemical treatments or heated tools.

Yet, the consistent use of natural oils and the embrace of textured styles, aided by these oils, represented a rejection of imposed norms and a reclamation of ancestral beauty. As the natural hair movement gained traction in the early 2000s, oils like jojoba became essential components of Black beauty rituals, symbolizing a broader embrace of cultural authenticity (BeautyMatter, 2025).

The very choice to maintain natural hair, often requiring diligent oiling for health and manageability, became a visible statement of cultural pride and a connection to African roots (Cornerstone). This collective shift, fueled by shared knowledge and mutual encouragement within communities, underscored the power of hair as a political and cultural symbol. The continuous dialogue around textured hair, its care, and its cultural significance within online and offline communities, as explored by scholars like Johnson (2013), further solidifies its role in identity building and collective consciousness (Smith Scholarworks).

The scientific understanding of textured hair’s propensity for dryness and the protective qualities of oils validates the ancestral wisdom that guided these practices for centuries. A review of African plants used for hair treatment highlights how traditional therapies, often involving oils, confer systemic effects that can be considered a form of “nutrition” for the hair and scalp (MDPI, 2024). This scientific lens confirms the deep efficacy of practices passed down through generations, underscoring their integral role in the heritage of textured hair care.

Reflection

The journey through the heritage of oiling textured hair reveals a profound truth ❉ it is far more than a simple act of grooming. It is a living, breathing archive of resilience, connection, and identity. From the intimate moments of shared care within families to the broader social and economic networks it supported, oiling has consistently served as a powerful catalyst for community bonds within Black and mixed-race experiences.

Each application of oil, each gentle comb through coils, echoes the ancestral wisdom that understood the unique needs of textured hair and transformed its care into a sacred communal ritual. This enduring practice, rooted in the very soul of a strand, continues to voice identity and shape futures, reminding us that true beauty lies not just in appearance, but in the strength of connection and the preservation of a rich, vibrant heritage.

References

• African American Registry. (n.d.). Black Hair Care and Its Culture, a story.
• Afriklens. (2024, November 1). African Hairstyles ❉ Cultural Significance and Legacy.
• Afriklens. (2025, March 24). The Evolution of African Hairstyles in Cultural Celebrations.
• BeautyMatter. (2025, February 4). The Untold Story of Jojoba Oil in Black Beauty.
• Byrd, A. D. & Tharps, L. L. (2001). Hair Story ❉ Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. St. Martin’s Press.
• Cornerstone. (n.d.). The Politics of Black Women’s Hair.
• Hill, D. (2024). Rhetoric of Natural Hair ❉ Cultural Contradictions. Advances in Applied Sociology, 14, 504-516.
• Know Your Hairitage. (n.d.). African Beauty & Culture.
• Library of Congress. (2016, August 27). Landscapes of Freedom ❉ Indianapolis Residents in the WPA Slave Narratives.
• Livara Natural Organics. (2023, February 7). Black History Month ❉ The Rich History of Our African Hair.
• MDPI. (2024, February 1). Cosmetopoeia of African Plants in Hair Treatment and Care ❉ Topical Nutrition and the Antidiabetic Connection?.
• Mouchane, M. Taybi, H. Gouitaa, N. & Assem, N. (2024, March 1). Ethnobotanical Survey of Medicinal Plants used in the Treatment and Care of Hair in Karia ba Mohamed (Northern Morocco). ResearchGate.
• Noireônaturel. (2024, January 1). How frizzy hair saved the lives of slaves.
• Nyela, O. (2021, October 20). Braided Archives ❉ Black hair as a site of diasporic transindividuation. YorkSpace.
• Obé. (2024, September 19). Braids of connection | The tradition and community of Black hair.
• Smith Scholarworks. (n.d.). Black women’s natural hair care communities ❉ social, political, and cultural implications.