How did oiling practices shape Black hair heritage?

Roots

When we speak of textured hair, we speak of a living legacy, a vibrant testament to endurance and identity. For generations, the story of Black hair has been whispered through braids, celebrated in coils, and sustained by practices that are as ancient as they are essential. Among these practices, oiling holds a central place, a silent guardian of heritage.

How did this elemental act, the anointing of strands with rich botanical essences, come to shape the very fiber of Black hair heritage? It is a question that invites us to delve into the very roots of ancestral wisdom, where scientific understanding and cultural memory intertwine.

From the sun-drenched lands of Africa, where diverse kingdoms flourished long before colonial shadows fell, hair was more than mere adornment. It served as a powerful visual language, communicating one’s status, age, marital standing, ethnic identity, wealth, and even spiritual connections. The Yoruba people, for instance, regarded hair as the body’s most elevated part, believing braided styles could send messages to the gods.

Hair care rituals, which involved hours of washing, combing, oiling, and styling with various embellishments, were communal activities, strengthening family and community bonds. This reverence for hair and its meticulous care laid the groundwork for oiling practices that would travel across oceans and through time.

What is the Ancestral Understanding of Textured Hair Anatomy?

The very structure of textured hair, with its unique elliptical follicles and varied curl patterns, necessitates a distinct approach to care. Unlike straight hair, the natural oils produced by the scalp, known as sebum, do not easily travel down the coiled strands. This inherent characteristic means textured hair often experiences dryness, making external lubrication vital for maintaining its health and resilience.

Ancestral communities understood this implicitly, long before modern science articulated the role of the hair follicle’s shape. They recognized the need for moisture and protection, turning to the bounty of their natural environments for solutions.

Across Africa, various plants yielded oils and butters that became cornerstones of hair care. Shea butter, derived from the nuts of the shea tree, was and remains a staple in West African traditions, valued for its moisturizing and protective qualities. Other indigenous oils, such as baobab, marula, and moringa, were also widely used for their nourishing and healing properties.

These were not merely cosmetic applications; they were acts of preservation, designed to keep hair supple, prevent breakage, and maintain its strength in diverse climates. The knowledge of which plants offered the most beneficial oils was passed down through generations, a testament to keen observation and practical application.

Oiling practices are a profound expression of ancestral wisdom, born from a deep understanding of textured hair’s unique needs and the abundant gifts of the natural world.

The Basara women of Chad, for example, are renowned for their use of Chebe powder, a blend of herbs, seeds, and plants. This powder is mixed with oils and animal fats, then applied to the hair and braided, a practice known for length retention. This specific case study highlights a nuanced understanding of how oils, when combined with other natural ingredients and protective styling, could address the particular challenges of maintaining long, healthy textured hair in arid environments. It demonstrates a sophisticated, localized science, where empirical knowledge guided the creation of highly effective hair care systems.

The essential lexicon of textured hair, therefore, extends beyond modern classifications. It includes the traditional names of these botanical ingredients and the rituals associated with their use. Understanding these terms allows for a deeper appreciation of the heritage embedded within our hair care practices.

• Shea Butter ❉ A West African staple, revered for its moisturizing and protective qualities, derived from the shea tree nuts.
• Marula Oil ❉ From Mozambique and South Africa, known for its light texture and oleic acid content, beneficial for scalp health.
• Moringa Oil ❉ Sourced from the moringa tree across various African regions, a rich source of antioxidants and vitamins for hair and scalp wellness.
• Baobab Oil ❉ Extracted from the fruit of the baobab tree, offering deep hydration and a wealth of vitamins.
• Chebe Powder ❉ A Chadian blend of herbs and seeds, traditionally mixed with oils for length retention and hair protection.

Ritual

As we journey from the foundational understanding of textured hair to its lived experience, we step into the realm of ritual—a space where care becomes ceremony, and tradition breathes life into every strand. The evolution of oiling practices, from ancient anointing to contemporary regimens, speaks to a continuous dialogue between ancestral wisdom and the changing landscape of daily life. How have these practices, rooted in the rhythms of community and the knowledge of generations, adapted and endured, shaping our present-day approach to textured hair care? It is a question that invites a closer look at the tender threads of continuity and adaptation.

In pre-colonial Africa, hair care was a significant social opportunity, often taking hours or even days. This communal activity involved washing, combing, oiling, braiding, or twisting, and then decorating the hair with materials like cloth, beads, or shells. This collective aspect of hair care, where mothers, daughters, and friends gathered, strengthened bonds and preserved cultural identity. Oiling was an integral part of this process, providing the necessary lubrication and nourishment for intricate styles that communicated social standing and personal narratives.

How Did Enslavement Alter Oiling Practices?

The transatlantic slave trade drastically disrupted these deeply rooted practices. Upon arrival in the Americas, enslaved Africans were often subjected to forced head shaving, an act intended to dehumanize and strip them of their African identity and cultural connection. This brutal act severed a direct link to their homeland and ancestral practices. Without access to their traditional tools, oils, and the time for meticulous care, enslaved individuals were forced to adapt, relying on whatever materials were available to them.

Despite unimaginable hardships, resilience shone through. Enslaved people creatively repurposed available resources to care for their hair. Sunday, often the only day of rest, became a sacred time for communal hair care. They would braid each other’s hair, using substances like butter, bacon fat, or goose grease as makeshift oils and conditioners to moisturize and protect their hair from harsh conditions.

These practices, though born of necessity and deprivation, maintained a thread of self-care and cultural preservation. The “greasing” of the scalp, a ritual that has historical roots for Black individuals in America, became a symbol of love and communal bonding, a moment of tenderness amidst cruelty.

The enduring practice of hair oiling represents a profound continuity, bridging ancient African traditions with the resilient adaptations born from the experiences of the diaspora.

This adaptation speaks volumes about the intrinsic value placed on hair health and appearance within the Black community, even under oppressive circumstances. The knowledge of how to care for textured hair, even with limited resources, was passed down, allowing a vital part of heritage to persist.

The tools and techniques associated with oiling also evolved. While traditional African communities utilized elaborately carved combs and brushes, enslaved people often created their own from available materials or repurposed items like wool carding tools for detangling.

What Role Does Oil Play in Protective Styling Heritage?

Oiling is intrinsically linked to the heritage of protective styling. In pre-colonial Africa, intricate braided styles were often prepared with oils and butters to maintain length and health, especially in hot, dry climates. This practice extended into the diaspora, where braids and twists became not only practical ways to manage hair but also powerful forms of communication and resistance. The application of oils helped to keep the hair moisturized and sealed within these styles, preventing breakage and promoting growth.

Even today, the wisdom of these ancestral methods is apparent. Many modern textured hair regimens continue to emphasize the importance of oiling before, during, and after protective styles to seal in moisture and protect the strands. The communal aspect of hair care, though perhaps less formalized than in ancient times, still resonates in shared styling sessions and the exchange of knowledge within families and communities.

Relay

As we move through the continuum of textured hair heritage, we arrive at the “Relay”—a space where the profound historical and cultural currents of oiling practices converge with contemporary understanding, propelling us toward a deeper appreciation of their enduring impact. How does the legacy of oiling practices continue to shape identity, self-perception, and community within Black and mixed-race experiences, bridging the wisdom of the past with the innovations of the present? This inquiry calls for an exploration that transcends simple cause and effect, recognizing the intricate interplay of biological realities, cultural narratives, and historical resilience.

The very nature of textured hair, with its unique coil patterns, means that natural scalp oils often struggle to travel down the entire hair shaft, leading to dryness. This biological reality made oiling a practical necessity across generations. Traditional oils like shea butter, coconut oil, and various plant extracts provided essential moisture and created a protective barrier, helping to prevent breakage and maintain the hair’s integrity. Modern science now validates these ancestral practices, recognizing the occlusive and emollient properties of these oils that seal in hydration and condition the hair.

How Does the History of Oiling Connect to Identity?

Beyond the physiological benefits, oiling practices have profoundly shaped Black hair heritage by serving as a conduit for identity and self-expression. In pre-colonial Africa, hair was a powerful symbol, conveying intricate details about an individual’s life and community standing. The meticulous care, including oiling, involved in creating elaborate hairstyles was a public declaration of pride and cultural affiliation.

The forced shaving of heads during the transatlantic slave trade was a deliberate act of dehumanization, designed to strip enslaved Africans of their identity and cultural connection. Yet, even in the face of such brutality, the practice of oiling, however rudimentary, became an act of quiet resistance and preservation. Using whatever fats were available, enslaved individuals continued to care for their hair, often communally, on Sundays—the only day of rest. This shared ritual became a means of maintaining dignity, fostering connection, and preserving a fragmented but persistent cultural memory.

This historical example of resilience is critical ❉ Despite the systemic attempts to erase their heritage, Black people adapted their oiling practices, using available materials like bacon grease or butter, to care for their hair and scalp, thus preserving a link to their ancestral traditions and asserting their identity. This sustained effort speaks to the deep psychological and cultural significance of hair care within the Black community.

What is the Socioeconomic Impact of Oiling Practices?

The commercialization of hair care products for Black women in the 19th and 20th centuries also holds significant socioeconomic dimensions. Early entrepreneurs like Madam C.J. Walker and Annie Malone, understanding the unique needs of textured hair and the prevailing societal pressures, developed and popularized hair care products, including those that aided in straightening.

While some of these innovations, like the hot comb, aimed to help Black women conform to Eurocentric beauty standards for assimilation into professional society, they also represented a burgeoning Black-owned beauty industry that offered economic independence and fostered community. Oiling practices, both traditional and adapted, were integral to these product lines, addressing dryness and preparing hair for various styles.

The persistent demand for products tailored to textured hair, despite historical attempts to devalue it, led to a significant market. Black consumers spend disproportionately more on hair care products compared to other ethnic groups, a trend that continues today. This economic reality, while sometimes exploited by companies marketing harmful products, also highlights the enduring commitment to hair health and appearance within the community.

The natural hair movement, gaining renewed traction in the 1960s and 70s, and again in the 21st century, represents a powerful reclaiming of ancestral hair textures and traditional care methods, including oiling. This movement is a statement of pride and resistance against Eurocentric beauty standards, affirming the inherent beauty of textured hair and its heritage. The return to natural oils and butters, like shea and coconut, reflects a conscious choice to honor ancestral wisdom and prioritize holistic wellness.

Moreover, the history of oil production itself reveals layers of racial disparity. Studies indicate that communities of color, particularly Black and Latinx populations, have been disproportionately exposed to oil and gas drilling operations, leading to higher levels of pollution and associated health problems. While distinct from hair oiling, this context underscores how the broader industry of “oil” has intersected with Black communities in complex and often harmful ways, even as natural oils have been a source of healing and beauty within those same communities for centuries.

The deep respect for ancestral knowledge is evident in the ongoing use of traditional ingredients and practices. This includes the recognition that oils can serve not only as moisturizers but also as sealants, preventing moisture loss, a crucial aspect for maintaining the health of textured hair.

• Communal Care ❉ Hair care, including oiling, historically served as a bonding activity, strengthening familial and community ties.
• Resilience in Adversity ❉ During enslavement, improvised oiling practices with available fats became acts of self-preservation and cultural continuity.
• Economic Empowerment ❉ The Black beauty industry, with its focus on textured hair products including oils, provided avenues for economic independence for Black women.

Reflection

The journey through oiling practices and their shaping of Black hair heritage reveals more than just a history of care; it uncovers a profound narrative of resilience, adaptation, and unwavering connection to ancestral wisdom. Each application of oil, from the earliest ceremonial anointing in African villages to the careful greasing of scalps during enslavement, and to the mindful hydration of coils today, is a continuation of a sacred dialogue with our strands. It is a dialogue that speaks of survival, of identity preserved against all odds, and of beauty defined on one’s own terms.

The ‘Soul of a Strand’ ethos reminds us that every coil, every kink, every wave holds within it the echoes of generations, a living archive of a heritage that continues to flourish, nurtured by the very practices that have sustained it through time. The simple act of oiling, then, transcends mere physical nourishment; it is a ritual of remembrance, a celebration of enduring legacy, and a vibrant declaration of self.

References

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• White, S. & White, G. (1995). Slave Hair and African American Culture in the Eighteenth and Nineteenth Centuries. The Journal of Southern History, 61 (1), 47-76.
• Basden, G. T. (1921). Among the Ibos of Nigeria ❉ An Account of the Curious & Interesting Habits, Customs & Beliefs of a Little Known African People. Seeley, Service & Co.
• Murrow, W. L. (1971). 400 Years Without A Comb. Willie L. Murrow.
• Akbar, N. (2023). What Every Dermatologist Must Know About the History of Black Hair. Cutis, 112(5), E18-E21.
• Simon, D. (2021). Hair ❉ Public, Political, Extremely Personal. Thames & Hudson.
• González, D. et al. (2023). Disparities in exposure to oil and gas wells in California. GeoHealth, 7 (3), e2022GH000755.
• Omole, B. (2019). Pre-colonial Nigerian cultures ❉ Hairdressing as a work of art. Pulse Nigeria .
• The NAACP Environmental and Climate Justice Program. (2017). Fumes Across the Fence-Line ❉ The Health Impacts of Air Pollution from Oil and Gas Facilities on African American Communities .