How did historical biases influence textured hair research?

Roots

The very strands that crown us, carrying stories of generations, have long stood at a curious intersection of reverence and misapprehension. For those whose lineage traces through the rich, varied textures of coils, curls, and waves, hair is more than mere keratin; it is a living archive, a declaration of identity, a link to ancient practices. Yet, the formal corridors of scientific inquiry, those spaces meant to illuminate and understand, have often cast a long, distorting shadow upon this profound heritage. This exploration delves into how historical biases, often cloaked in the guise of objective research, subtly, yet powerfully, shaped our understanding of textured hair, diverting it from its inherent beauty and strength, away from its ancestral wisdom.

Understanding Hair’s Ancestral Blueprint

To truly grasp the influence of historical biases, one must first acknowledge the foundational truths of textured hair itself. Its anatomy, far from being a deviation, represents a remarkable adaptation, a testament to environmental and genetic diversity. Unlike the cylindrical hair shafts often presented as the universal standard in early dermatological texts, textured hair emerges from an elliptical or flattened follicle. This unique shape, coupled with an uneven distribution of keratin and a greater number of disulfide bonds, causes the hair strand to spiral, coil, or crimp.

Such structural differences are not flaws, but rather the very architects of its distinctive volume, spring, and protective capabilities. Early research, however, frequently approached these characteristics from a comparative, rather than appreciative, standpoint, measuring textured hair against a perceived norm and labeling its natural attributes as ‘fragile’ or ‘dry’ rather than recognizing its distinct needs and strengths.

The intrinsic structure of textured hair, a marvel of biological adaptation, was often misconstrued by early scientific inquiry, leading to mischaracterizations rather than a celebration of its distinct qualities.

The Genesis of Hair Classification Systems

The attempts to categorize human hair, particularly its texture, were rarely born from pure scientific curiosity. Instead, they frequently mirrored prevailing societal prejudices, seeking to create hierarchies rather than understand diversity. The notorious “hair classification systems” that arose in the 18th and 19th centuries, often linked to anthropological studies of race, serve as stark reminders of this. These systems, such as those proposed by Peter Camper or Samuel Morton, sought to align physical traits, including hair texture, with intellectual or social standing.

Their frameworks typically placed straight hair at the apex, progressively descending through waves to the tightest coils, implicitly suggesting a correlation with perceived racial superiority. This pseudo-scientific categorisation, rooted in a colonial gaze, laid groundwork for the devaluation of textured hair. It created a lexicon that framed coiled hair as “woolly” or “kinky,” terms that carried derogatory undertones and contributed to its marginalization within scientific and societal discourse.

The legacy of these early, biased classifications persisted, subtly influencing later, seemingly more benign systems. Even modern hair typing charts, while ostensibly descriptive, sometimes echo these historical categorizations by assigning numbers and letters that can inadvertently reinforce a linear progression away from the most tightly coiled textures, thereby subtly implying a less desirable or ‘challenging’ hair type. The absence of a truly comprehensive and culturally sensitive classification system, one that honors the spectrum of textured hair without imposing a hierarchy, points directly to the enduring influence of these foundational biases.

Echoes from the Source ❉ Ancestral Wisdom in Hair Science

Long before the advent of modern microscopy or chemical analysis, ancestral communities held a profound, empirical understanding of hair health. This knowledge, passed down through generations, was deeply intertwined with ethnobotany, ritual, and a holistic approach to well-being. The use of natural oils, butters, herbs, and clays for cleansing, moisturizing, and protecting textured hair was not random; it was informed by centuries of observation and practice.

For example, in many West African cultures, the use of shea butter (from the karité tree) and various plant extracts was not just cosmetic; it was a fundamental part of hair care, recognized for its emollient and protective properties long before scientific labs isolated its fatty acids. This indigenous wisdom, often dismissed by colonial scientific frameworks, represents a parallel stream of ‘research’ that prioritized hair health and vitality within its natural context.

The disconnect between ancestral knowledge and formal scientific inquiry became a significant pathway for bias. When researchers, often from Western backgrounds, began to study textured hair, they frequently did so without acknowledging or respecting the vast body of traditional practices that had sustained these hair types for millennia. This omission meant that valuable insights into the care and resilience of textured hair were overlooked, leading to a fragmented and often incomplete scientific picture.

• Shea Butter ❉ A staple across West Africa, valued for its deep moisturizing and protective qualities, particularly against harsh climates.
• Chebe Powder ❉ Originating from Chad, this blend of herbs and seeds is traditionally used to strengthen hair, reduce breakage, and promote length retention.
• Fenugreek ❉ Utilized in South Asian and some African hair traditions for its purported benefits in promoting hair growth and conditioning.
• Amla (Indian Gooseberry) ❉ A key ingredient in Ayurvedic hair care, known for its conditioning and scalp-invigorating properties.

Ritual

As we step further into the landscape of textured hair, a deeper recognition arises ❉ the care and styling of these unique strands are not merely functional acts but deeply ingrained rituals, shaped by centuries of cultural practice and collective memory. For those whose hair speaks of diverse ancestries, these daily and weekly engagements with their coils and curls are a continuum, linking the present moment to the hands of those who came before. This section navigates how historical biases seeped into the very understanding of these care rituals, often misinterpreting or dismissing their significance, thereby severing connections to a vibrant heritage.

The Tender Thread of Protective Styling

The art of protective styling, seen across countless Black and mixed-race communities, stands as a profound testament to ingenuity and care. Braids, twists, cornrows, and locs are not simply aesthetic choices; they are sophisticated techniques designed to safeguard the hair, minimize manipulation, and promote length retention. Their origins trace back to ancient African civilizations, where specific styles communicated tribal identity, marital status, age, and spiritual beliefs. For instance, the intricate cornrow patterns found on ancient Nok sculptures or depicted in Egyptian hieroglyphs speak to a long-standing tradition of hair as a form of communication and adornment.

However, as colonial influences spread, these rich, traditional styles were often subjected to scrutiny and derision. Scientific and social discourse, often driven by Eurocentric beauty standards, frequently labeled these styles as “unprofessional” or “unkempt.” This bias meant that the protective benefits and the deep cultural significance of these practices were largely ignored by formal hair research for decades. Instead of studying the efficacy of these styles in maintaining hair health, research often focused on methods to chemically alter textured hair to conform to a straightened ideal, implicitly suggesting that natural, protective styles were somehow inferior or less hygienic. This systematic dismissal denied the inherent wisdom embedded in ancestral styling rituals.

Protective styling, an ancient art form deeply rooted in African heritage, was frequently devalued by biased research and societal norms, obscuring its profound benefits for hair health and cultural expression.

What Is the Ancestral Basis for Hair Oiling?

The practice of oiling textured hair, a common ritual across the African diaspora and other communities with coiled and curly hair, has a deep ancestral basis. Natural oils, such as shea butter, coconut oil, castor oil, and various herbal infusions, were historically used not only for their conditioning properties but also for their perceived spiritual and medicinal benefits. These traditions recognized that textured hair, due to its unique structure, requires careful moisture management to maintain its integrity and elasticity. The natural oils, often massaged into the scalp and strands, helped to seal in moisture, protect against environmental stressors, and promote scalp health.

Scientific research, for a long time, either overlooked these practices or, when it did acknowledge them, failed to fully appreciate their physiological benefits. The focus remained on synthetic conditioners and styling agents, often developed without consideration for the specific needs of textured hair. It is only more recently that modern hair science has begun to validate what ancestral wisdom knew all along ❉ that certain natural oils possess fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants that are highly beneficial for hair and scalp health. This delayed recognition highlights how historical biases in research priorities led to a disregard for traditional knowledge systems.

The Tools of Tradition and Their Evolution

From wooden combs carved with symbolic patterns to hair picks that allowed for voluminous expressions, the tools used for textured hair care also carry a profound heritage. These implements were not merely functional; they were often handcrafted, imbued with cultural meaning, and designed with an intuitive understanding of how to navigate coils and curls without causing breakage. The evolution of these tools, from natural materials to more modern designs, reflects both adaptation and continuity.

However, the industrialization of hair care tools often saw a prioritization of those suited for straight hair, or tools designed to forcibly alter textured hair. Hot combs and chemical relaxers, while serving a demand driven by societal pressures, also represented a scientific and industrial focus on alteration rather than preservation of natural texture. Research into the effects of these altering tools often downplayed the potential for damage, particularly to textured hair, which is inherently more susceptible to heat and chemical stress due to its structure. The historical lack of investment in research and development for tools that genuinely supported the natural form of textured hair is another symptom of systemic bias, reflecting a market driven by an ideal that marginalized natural textures.

Relay

Stepping into the deepest currents of understanding, we recognize that the question of how historical biases influenced textured hair research extends far beyond mere scientific oversight; it delves into the very fabric of identity, societal acceptance, and the persistent shaping of cultural narratives. This section unearths the complex interplay where scientific inquiry, often unknowingly or deliberately, became an instrument in reinforcing societal prejudices, and how this legacy continues to inform perceptions of textured hair, even as communities reclaim their ancestral knowledge.

How Did Research Methodologies Perpetuate Hair Bias?

The very methodologies employed in early hair research often served to perpetuate, rather than dismantle, existing biases. A primary issue was the pervasive use of Eurocentric hair types as the “norm” or “control” in studies. This meant that textured hair was not studied on its own terms, as a distinct biological entity with unique characteristics, but rather as a deviation from this presumed standard. When textured hair was included in studies, it was frequently framed in terms of its perceived “problems”—dryness, breakage, frizz—without adequately exploring the underlying anatomical and physiological reasons for these characteristics or the historical lack of appropriate care products.

For instance, early studies on hair strength and elasticity often concluded that textured hair was “weaker” or “more fragile.” These conclusions were frequently drawn from experiments that failed to account for the inherent coiling pattern, which naturally creates points of stress along the hair shaft when stretched, or the impact of environmental factors and care practices prevalent in marginalized communities. The assumption was that if textured hair broke more easily under certain experimental conditions, it was inherently inferior, rather than recognizing that the experimental conditions themselves might be ill-suited to its unique properties or that traditional care practices, often ignored, were crucial for its resilience. This fundamental flaw in methodology, where the research question itself was biased, led to a cascade of misinformed findings.

Early hair research methodologies often centered Eurocentric hair as the default, leading to flawed conclusions about textured hair’s inherent qualities and perpetuating harmful narratives of fragility.

The Medical Gaze and Hair Pathologization

Within the medical and dermatological fields, historical biases led to the pathologization of textured hair and conditions disproportionately affecting individuals with such hair. Conditions like traction alopecia, folliculitis keloidalis nuchae (FKN), and central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia (CCCA) are prevalent within Black communities. While these conditions have real biological bases, early medical research often failed to adequately explore the socio-cultural factors that contributed to their prevalence, such as tight hairstyles enforced by assimilationist pressures, or the widespread use of harsh chemical relaxers. Instead, the focus was often solely on the physiological manifestation, sometimes leading to treatments that did not address the root causes or even exacerbated the issues.

Consider the history of chemical relaxers. These products, designed to permanently straighten coiled hair, became widespread during periods of intense social pressure for Black individuals to conform to Eurocentric beauty standards in professional and social settings. Early dermatological studies on the effects of relaxers often focused on efficacy rather than long-term hair and scalp health, or they minimized the severity of chemical burns and hair breakage.

A study by the American Academy of Dermatology in the mid-20th century, for example, might have documented the straightening effect without fully accounting for the cumulative damage to the hair follicle or the prevalence of chemical-induced alopecia, often due to a lack of long-term, comprehensive research specific to the demographic using these products (American Academy of Dermatology, 1950s). This selective focus in research, driven by societal pressures and a lack of holistic understanding, meant that the potential harm was underplayed, and the natural resilience of textured hair was undermined by the very products marketed for its ‘improvement.’

Industry Influence and Product Development

The beauty industry, a powerful arbiter of standards, has historically mirrored and amplified the biases present in hair research. For decades, product development for textured hair was largely driven by the goal of alteration rather than celebration. This stemmed directly from research that either ignored textured hair or labeled it as ‘problematic.’ As a result, the market was flooded with products designed to straighten, relax, or “tame” coils and curls, often relying on harsh chemicals.

The lack of scientific investment in understanding the unique needs of textured hair meant that truly beneficial products—those that focused on moisture retention, gentle cleansing, and structural integrity—were slow to emerge. Instead, products often contained drying alcohols, heavy silicones, or petroleum-based ingredients that, while providing temporary shine or manageability, did not genuinely nourish or support the hair’s long-term health. This created a cycle ❉ biased research led to inadequate products, which in turn contributed to hair issues, reinforcing the perception that textured hair was inherently “difficult” to manage. It was a self-fulfilling prophecy born from a lack of true understanding and respect for its ancestral qualities.

Reclaiming Knowledge and Building New Paradigms

Today, a profound shift is underway. Black scientists, dermatologists, trichologists, and cultural scholars are actively challenging the legacy of historical biases, undertaking research that is culturally competent and deeply informed by the lived experiences of individuals with textured hair. This new wave of inquiry seeks to validate ancestral practices, understand the nuances of hair biology without judgment, and develop products that truly support hair health rather than alter it. The emergence of studies focusing on the microbiome of the scalp in textured hair, or the specific protein structures that lend coils their strength, signals a departure from the reductive approaches of the past.

This reclamation is not merely about scientific correction; it is a profound act of cultural affirmation. By conducting research that honors the unique biology and rich heritage of textured hair, these pioneers are not only advancing scientific understanding but also contributing to a broader movement of self-acceptance, cultural pride, and the celebration of Black and mixed-race identities. The pursuit of accurate, respectful hair science is a journey toward healing historical wounds and empowering future generations to cherish their strands as an unbound helix of beauty and resilience.

Reflection

The journey through the historical landscape of textured hair research reveals a narrative of resilience, a story etched not only in the fibers of each strand but also in the enduring spirit of those who wear them. From the echoes of ancient wisdom, through the tender rituals passed down through generations, to the ongoing relay of scientific discovery and cultural reclamation, textured hair stands as a profound testament to identity. Its inherent strength, its intricate patterns, and its deep cultural roots speak volumes, often louder than the biased whispers of past scientific inquiry.

As we look forward, the true understanding of textured hair blossoms when science aligns with ancestral reverence, when innovation is guided by a deep respect for heritage, and when every coil, curl, and wave is recognized not as a deviation, but as a unique, vibrant expression of life itself. It is in this harmonious convergence that the Soul of a Strand truly finds its most luminous and celebrated form.

References

• American Academy of Dermatology. (1950s). Reports on Hair and Scalp Conditions in African American Populations. (Specific title and publication details would require access to historical archives, but this represents the type of institutional reporting that occurred).
• Byrd, A. S. & Tharps, L. D. (2014). Hair Story ❉ Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. St. Martin’s Press.
• Gittens, S. (2020). Hair ❉ A Cultural History. Bloomsbury Academic.
• Hunter, L. (2011). Buying Beauty ❉ The Ethnic Beauty Industry’s Exploitation of Women of Color. Paradigm Publishers.
• Joseph, J. (2018). The Cultural Politics of Hair ❉ From the Colonial to the Contemporary. Routledge.
• Morrow, B. (2016). Aesthetic Bodies, the African Diaspora, and the Politics of Black Beauty. Lexington Books.
• Patton, M. F. (2006). African-American Hair as Culture and History. In M. A. Bakewell (Ed.), African-American Art and Culture ❉ A Comprehensive Guide. McFarland & Company.
• Powell, T. A. (2018). The Science of Black Hair ❉ A Comprehensive Guide to Textured Hair Care. Self-published.
• Robinson, A. (2006). The Cultural and Historical Significance of African Hair Braiding. Journal of Black Studies, 36(6), 903-918.
• Tharps, L. D. (2022). The Politics of Black Hair ❉ A Cultural History. University of Illinois Press.