How did historical attitudes about textured hair develop?

Roots

Consider for a moment the very fibers of our being, the strands that spring from the scalp, holding within their coiled contours not simply proteins and pigments, but generations of knowing. They bear the impress of ancient suns, the touch of ancestral hands, and the whisper of forgotten songs. To chart how historical attitudes about textured hair emerged, we must first attend to the elemental nature of hair itself, not as an inert appendage, but as a living record, a testament to heritage. This begins with understanding the physical reality of textured hair, recognizing the wisdom woven into its very structure, a wisdom understood by our forebearers long before modern scientific inquiry gave it labels.

The anatomy of textured hair, from the intricate undulations of its follicle to the spiraling helix of its cortex, speaks of an evolutionary design for diverse climates and cultures. Unlike straight hair, which typically emerges from a round follicle, textured hair often springs from an elliptical or flattened follicle, guiding the hair shaft into its characteristic curl pattern. This unique shape causes the hair strand to twist as it grows, creating points of tension and areas where the cuticle layer may be more open, yet also contributing to its extraordinary volume and resilience. For centuries, ancestral communities across the African continent understood these inherent qualities, developing sophisticated care practices that honored the hair’s natural inclinations, practices rooted in observation and communal wisdom.

The coiled contours of textured hair hold within them not just biology, but generations of ancestral knowing and heritage.

Early systems of categorization, though not formalized in the way we classify hair types today, were deeply embedded in cultural understanding. In pre-colonial African societies, hair was a powerful marker, a living encyclopedia of identity, status, and community affiliation. Hairstyles could signal a person’s age, their tribal lineage, their marital status, or even their spiritual role within the community. The elaborate cornrow styles, dating as far back as 3000 B.C.

served as a complex system of communication, conveying a person’s socioeconomic standing or their family background. This intricate system of hair symbolism, far from being a superficial aesthetic, was a fundamental part of societal fabric and historical attitudes about textured hair.

What Ancient Practices Reveal About Textured Hair Care?

The essential lexicon of textured hair, in its ancestral context, was less about scientific terms and more about practices and the spiritual weight given to the scalp and hair. Terms would relate to the specific tools carved from wood or bone, the plant-based ingredients gathered from the earth, or the names of intricate braiding patterns that told stories. For instance, the Wodaabe people applied rancid butter to their hair, not for mere shine, but as a deeply cultural practice that also cleansed and softened the strands, a testament to ingenious solutions derived from their surroundings (Bovin, 2001, p.

56). This points to a holistic view of hair, where its physical state was inseparable from its cultural and spiritual significance.

Consider the hair growth cycle, a biological marvel, and how it was understood through the lens of ancient beliefs. While modern science details anagen, catagen, and telogen phases, ancestral wisdom might have viewed hair growth as a continuous connection to the earth’s cycles, the moon’s phases, or the life force itself. Some traditionally held beliefs across Africa suggested that hair should be cut on a full moon day for it to grow longer, or that two people should not braid a person’s hair simultaneously, for fear of ill fortune. These beliefs shaped attitudes, guiding daily rituals and influencing communal norms around hair care, cementing a deeply rooted heritage of attention to the strands.

The physical properties of textured hair, its coily structure, and its tendency towards dryness, demanded specific care. The rich history of hair care in Africa, before the brutal disruptions of colonialism, involved the use of natural ingredients such as shea butter, various plant extracts, and essential oils, all harvested from the surrounding environment. These substances were not merely for aesthetics; they were integral to maintaining the health and vitality of the hair, preventing breakage, and facilitating growth. This understanding of hair as a living, breathing part of the body, deserving of reverence and precise care, formed the bedrock of historical attitudes.

Ritual

From the profound wisdom of hair’s very structure, we move to the living traditions of its adornment and maintenance, the myriad rituals that have shaped how textured hair has been perceived and treated through the ages. These were not simply acts of beautification; they were sacred practices, deeply intertwined with identity, community, and resistance, reflecting the evolution of historical attitudes about textured hair. The artistry involved in styling textured hair, passed down through generations, speaks to an inherited understanding of its unique capabilities and needs.

The legacy of protective styling, so vital to textured hair today, draws directly from ancient practices. Styles such as braids, twists, and locs were not only aesthetic expressions but strategic interventions for hair health and preservation. They minimized daily manipulation, shielded strands from environmental harshness, and allowed for sustained growth. In pre-colonial West Africa, these styles were also sophisticated forms of nonverbal communication, relaying everything from tribal affiliation to readiness for marriage.

For instance, certain cornrow patterns could indicate a person’s age or status within their tribe. This historical continuity grounds our contemporary understanding of protective styling as a heritage practice.

Styling textured hair transcended mere aesthetics, becoming sacred rituals of identity, community, and resistance across generations.

The arrival of the transatlantic slave trade marked a cataclysmic shift in attitudes towards textured hair. Captured Africans were often forced to shave their heads upon arrival, a deliberate act of dehumanization intended to strip them of their identity and cultural connections. This profound act of erasure was the first, brutal step in dismantling their heritage, forcing them to shed the visual markers that once defined their families, tribes, and social standing. The value placed on hair in African societies was so immense that this forced shaving was understood as a profound humiliation, a tactic to disconnect individuals from their roots.

How Did Enslavement Alter Perceptions of Textured Hair?

Amidst the horrors of enslavement, the traditional practices of hair care and styling persevered as acts of quiet rebellion and resilience. Enslaved Africans, denied access to their customary tools and ingredients, ingeniously adapted. They used whatever was available—bacon grease, butter, or even kerosene—to care for their hair, demonstrating an incredible will to maintain a semblance of their cultural self.

On Sundays, often the sole day of rest, hair care became a communal ritual, a time for sharing, connecting, and passing down techniques in hushed tones. These gatherings allowed for the continuation of ancient practices, creating a collective memory that defied their captors’ intentions.

A powerful historical example of hair as a tool of survival and resistance comes from the enslaved rice farmers of West Africa, who, during the transatlantic slave trade, braided rice seeds into their hair before forced migration to the Americas. This audacious act preserved both their sustenance and a vital part of their cultural legacy. Cornrows were also employed to create maps, guiding escape routes from plantations, effectively turning hair into a clandestine tool for freedom. This demonstrates the profound utility of hair as a means of communication and survival when other avenues were denied.

1. Colonial Erasure ❉ During the slave trade, forced head shaving severed connections to African identity and heritage.
2. Subtle Resistance ❉ Enslaved people adapted traditional styling techniques with available materials, transforming hair care into acts of defiance.
3. Tignon Laws ❉ In 18th-century New Orleans, laws mandated that Black women cover their hair, a direct attempt to suppress their cultural expression and status.

The 18th century saw the imposition of laws like the Tignon Laws in New Orleans, which required free Creole women of color to cover their elaborately styled hair with a tignon or scarf. These laws were designed to enforce social hierarchy and diminish the perceived status of these women, whose vibrant hairstyles often drew admiration and challenged racial norms. This was a direct assault on the heritage of hair as a symbol of personal pride and community, pushing the idea that natural textured hair was uncivilized or improper.

In the post-slavery era and early 20th century, societal pressures to conform to Eurocentric beauty standards led to widespread adoption of hair straightening methods, such as hot combs and chemical relaxers. This was a complex period, where altering hair texture was often seen as a necessary step for social and economic acceptance, a way to navigate a world that deemed natural hair unprofessional or “bad”. The pursuit of “good hair”—meaning straight hair—became a painful yet understandable response to systemic discrimination, a reflection of how attitudes about textured hair were shaped by a pervasive imperial aesthetic (Yerima, 2017).

Relay

The story of textured hair, its struggles, and its triumphs, continues to unfold, passed along like a sacred family heirloom. From the deliberate acts of erasure during enslavement to the subtle pressures of assimilation, the journey of how historical attitudes about textured hair have been transmitted is one of enduring resistance and reclamation. In recent decades, there has been a powerful movement to re-center textured hair, not just as a style, but as a living heritage, a source of pride and a profound connection to ancestral roots. This relay of knowledge, beauty, and resilience is profoundly shaping our present.

The mid-20th century saw the emergence of the “Black is Beautiful” movement, a transformative period that directly challenged Eurocentric beauty standards and championed the inherent beauty of Black features, including natural hair. This cultural awakening saw the Afro rise as a powerful symbol of defiance, pride, and a visual link to African ancestry. Activists like Angela Davis wore their Afros as statements of Black power, asserting a collective identity that rejected centuries of imposed inferiority. This moment significantly shifted the dialogue around textured hair, reclaiming it as a marker of strength and heritage, not shame.

The contemporary movement for textured hair is a powerful reclamation, transforming historical attitudes through pride and ancestral connection.

What Does Modern Legislation Reveal About Hair Attitudes?

Despite these powerful cultural shifts, legal and professional discrimination against natural textured hair persisted. For decades, Black individuals faced barriers in employment and education for wearing styles like braids, locs, or twists, often deemed “unprofessional” or “unruly”. The landmark 1976 case of Jenkins v.

Blue Cross Mutual Hospital Insurance, though upholding protection for Afros under Title VII of the Civil Rights Act, did not extend protections to other natural styles like braids or locs, creating a problematic legal distinction. This highlighted a fundamental misunderstanding, a persistent bias rooted in historical attitudes that viewed textured hair, in its natural state, as inherently less acceptable.

The ongoing struggle against hair discrimination culminated in legislative efforts such as the CROWN Act (Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair). This legislation, first passed in California in 2019, prohibits discrimination based on hair texture and protective hairstyles like locs, cornrows, twists, and braids in schools and workplaces. As of July 2024, 25 U.S.

states have prohibited discrimination based on hair texture, signaling a societal recognition of the deep-seated issues that have historically impacted textured hair. This is a direct legal response to centuries of imposed norms and biases, asserting the right to cultural expression through hair without fear of penalty.

The CROWN Act’s success reflects a broader cultural reckoning, a collective recognition that hair discrimination is a form of racial discrimination. Research by The Perception Institute’s 2016 “Good Hair” study indicated that a majority of people, regardless of race and gender, held some bias toward Black women and their hair. A 2020 Duke University study found that Black women with natural hairstyles were perceived as less professional and competent, and less likely to be recommended for job interviews, compared to candidates with straight hair. This data powerfully illuminates the insidious nature of historical attitudes and their continued influence in modern society, reinforcing the urgent need for legal protections.

• Ancestral Oils ❉ Palm oil and shea butter were commonly used for conditioning and protecting hair in West African traditions.
• Clay Treatments ❉ Certain clays were used for cleansing and detoxification, drawing impurities while nourishing the scalp.
• Herbal Infusions ❉ Leaves and barks from specific plants were steeped to create rinses that strengthened strands and promoted growth.

The modern focus on holistic hair care often echoes ancestral wisdom, particularly in its emphasis on nourishing ingredients and gentle practices. Contemporary hair wellness advocates speak of hair as an extension of overall well-being, a concept deeply ingrained in traditional African philosophies where the head, or ‘ori’ in Yoruba, holds significant spiritual meaning. This renewed appreciation for natural ingredients—like the very shea butter that our ancestors used—and methods that honor the hair’s intrinsic patterns, represents a powerful relay of heritage. It is a dialogue between ancient knowing and modern science, where each validates the other in the pursuit of vibrant, healthy hair.

Reflection

To gaze upon a single strand of textured hair is to witness a profound chronicle, a living archive of generations, resilience, and boundless spirit. The journey charting how historical attitudes about textured hair developed is a complex one, etched with moments of profound reverence, brutal suppression, and tenacious reclamation. Yet, through every shift in societal perception, through every challenge faced, textured hair has maintained its intrinsic power as a carrier of heritage, a beacon of identity. It reminds us that our hair is not merely a biological feature; it is a profound connection to those who came before us, a continuous flow of ancestral wisdom.

Roothea’s ethos, the ‘Soul of a Strand,’ calls us to recognize this deep lineage. It invites us to honor the enduring legacy of textured hair, not as a static historical artifact, but as a dynamic, living force within our communities. The ongoing conversation about hair discrimination, the legislative changes being forged, and the growing collective pride in natural textures all bear testament to this living heritage.

Every twist, every coil, every loc carries the stories of survival, artistry, and self-definition. As we continue to care for our textured hair, whether through time-honored rituals or modern practices informed by ancient wisdom, we participate in an unbroken chain, ensuring that the legacy of textured hair remains a radiant declaration of who we are, where we come from, and the unbound future we shape.