How did ancient oils shape hair identity?

Roots

Consider the intricate coils, the resilient waves, the proud crowns that grace millions of heads across this living planet. Each strand, a testament to ancestral journeys, carries whispers of sun-drenched savannas, ancient ceremonies, and a profound connection to the very earth. For those of us with textured hair, our coils are more than simply protein and water; they are a living archive, a scroll unfurling through generations, bearing the indelible marks of heritage. To truly comprehend the identity woven into these strands, one must look back, to the dawn of care, to the oils that became conduits of tradition and self-definition.

These elemental elixirs, pressed from seeds and fruits, were not merely cosmetic aids. They were, instead, foundational elements in shaping how textured hair was understood, honored, and ultimately, how it communicated who we were, who we are.

The origins of hair care are as ancient as humanity itself, born from both a practical need for hygiene and a desire for aesthetic expression. In warm, often arid climates, the unique structure of coiled hair presented both blessings and challenges. Its helical form, while offering natural sun protection for the scalp, also meant a slower distribution of natural sebum from the scalp along the hair shaft. This characteristic made, and continues to make, textured hair prone to dryness.

Our ancestors, living in intimate relationship with their environments, discovered the rich, emollient properties of plant oils and butters, learning to coax moisture, pliability, and luster from what nature provided. These substances became indispensable.

Where Did the First Hair Oils Appear?

Ancient civilizations, particularly across Africa, recognized the profound value of botanical extracts for both skin and hair. The use of oils for hair care is a widespread practice, with historical roots stretching back millennia. For instance, the ancient Egyptians made extensive use of oils derived from almond, castor, moringa, and papyrus seeds. They employed these oils to keep their hair smooth, moisturized, and free from external irritants (TheCollector, 2022).

Archeological findings, like combs made from fish bones, suggest these tools were used to distribute oils evenly through the hair. The application of oils helped maintain healthy hair and scalp, a necessity in their desert climate.

Across various regions of Sub-Saharan Africa, a deep pharmacopoeia of natural ingredients, passed from generation to generation, dictated beauty rituals. Shea butter , derived from the nuts of the shea tree, served as a staple for moisturizing and protecting hair from harsh environmental conditions (22 Ayur, 2024; Orlando Pita Play, 2023). This revered butter, often called “The sacred tree of the savannah,” is rich in moisturizing properties, offering shine and aiding in the styling of textured hair (Traditional Beauty Secrets of Sub-Saharan Africa, 2024).

Beyond shea, communities utilized a wide array of fine oils and vegetable butters such as those from sesame, avocado, argan, baobab, mango, and cocoa (Traditional Beauty Secrets of Sub-Saharan Africa, 2024). The baobab tree ( Adansonia digitata ), often known as the “Tree of Life,” provided seeds from which a potent oil was extracted, celebrated for its hydrating properties and its capacity to nourish the scalp and hair (Jules Of The Earth, 2024).

Ancient oils provided textured hair with essential moisture, reflecting an early understanding of botanical power.

Consider the Himba people of Namibia, whose distinctive hair practices involve a paste known as otjize, a mixture of butterfat and ochre. While primarily known for its skin application to provide sun protection and a reddish glow, it also contributes to their hair care, protecting and styling. This powerful example underscores how hair care ingredients were multifunctional, blending beauty, protection, and cultural identity.

Another example is the use of an herb-infused oil/animal fat mixture, often called Chebe, by the Basara Tribe of T’Chad for length retention (Reddit, 2021). These practices speak to an intimate knowledge of natural resources and their efficacy for textured hair.

The deep understanding of natural resources in various climates shaped the choice of oils. In areas prone to dryness, oils that provided substantial moisture and protection became central. The very structure of tightly coiled hair, an adaptation to hot climates by allowing air circulation to the scalp for temperature regulation, also benefits immensely from the moisture-sealing qualities of these oils (Rennora Beauty, 2025). This intertwining of natural adaptation and deliberate care through ancient oils points to an early scientific wisdom, rooted in observation and generational practice.

Ritual

The application of ancient oils to textured hair was rarely a solitary, utilitarian act. It unfolded within a rich context of communal practices, spiritual beliefs, and the rhythms of daily life, transforming into deeply ingrained rituals that solidified hair’s place in personal and collective identity. These moments of care became tender expressions of love, tradition, and self-worth, connecting individuals to their lineage and community. The process itself, often involving intricate techniques and shared knowledge, served to pass down not just methods, but values.

How Did Ancient Oiling Practices Reflect Community Values?

In many traditional African societies, hair care was a communal activity, particularly among women. These sessions, often spanning hours, included shampooing, oiling, combing, and styling such as braiding and twisting (Wikipedia, 2025). The knowledge of which oils to use, how to prepare them, and the specific ways to apply them were passed from elder to youth, from mother to daughter.

This transmission of knowledge speaks volumes about the value placed on hair health and its cultural significance. The very act of oiling another’s hair could be a demonstration of affection, care, and a continuity of cultural practice.

For instance, in ancient Egypt, hair was an embodiment of identity, conveying religious significance, gender, age, and social status (Wikipedia, 2024). The use of oils like castor and almond was deeply integrated into these expressions, serving to maintain elaborate hairstyles and wigs, which were status symbols among the elite (TheCollector, 2022). It is within these ritualized applications that the scientific properties of oils, like moisture retention and conditioning, truly merged with their cultural meaning.

• Palm Oil and Palm Kernel Oil were popularly used for oiling the scalp in West and Central Africa (Wikipedia, 2025).
• Shea Butter consistently served to moisturize and dress hair across various West African nations (Wikipedia, 2025).
• Black Seed Oil (Nigella sativa), often called “Habbat al-Barakah” or “Seed of Blessing” in Arabic, was used by historical figures such as Queen Nefertiti for her hair care routine (KHAMSA, 2023; Ancient Purity, 2024).

During the transatlantic slave trade, the violent displacement of African people severed many from their traditional practices and the indigenous oils and herbs they used for hair care. Deprived of their ancestral resources, enslaved Africans improvised, turning to readily available substances like cooking oil, animal fats, and butter to maintain their hair (Salford Students’ Union, 2024; Seychelles Nation, 2022). This adaptation, though born from hardship, underscores the persistent human need for self-care and the enduring importance of hair, even under duress. The struggle to maintain hair health and styles became a quiet act of resistance, a way to preserve a piece of their identity and heritage when so much else was stolen.

The ritual of oiling, therefore, transcended mere beautification. It served as a spiritual anchor, a marker of community, and a quiet assertion of self in the face of oppressive forces. The continuity of these practices, even in altered forms, speaks to their deep roots within the heritage of textured hair. This deep cultural context of hair care stands in stark contrast to more simplified, modern perceptions of hair oils as purely cosmetic products.

The communal application of ancient oils forged social bonds and upheld cultural identity across generations.

What Historical Examples Show Oil’s Spiritual Importance?

The spiritual and symbolic significance of hair is deeply intertwined with the use of oils in many ancient traditions. In certain African civilizations, hair was seen as a channel for spiritual interaction with divine forces, given its proximity to the skies (Salford Students’ Union, 2024). Consequently, the care of hair, including the application of precious oils, was often imbued with ritualistic meaning. These acts of anointing were not just about physical health; they were about spiritual alignment, protection, and blessing.

For instance, the burial practices of ancient Egypt often included elaborately carved vessels containing significant quantities of oils and perfumes (Nile Scribes, 2021). The presence of black seed oil in the tomb of King Tutankhamun, alongside his riches, highlights its immense spiritual value and its role in accompanying the deceased into the afterlife (KHAMSA, 2023; Ancient Purity, 2024). This indicates a belief in the enduring efficacy and symbolic power of these oils beyond the earthly realm, connecting physical adornment to spiritual journey.

Furthermore, in some African tribes, the style and placement of hair, often maintained with local earth materials and oils, symbolized one’s life status or a coming-of-age (Salford Students’ Union, 2024). The very texture of hair, with its tight curl patterns, was an adaptation to environmental conditions, and the oils used to care for it became part of a larger system of cultural expression (Rennora Beauty, 2025). The blend of practical care, community building, and spiritual observance within these ancient oiling rituals illuminates how deeply hair identity was shaped by these heritage practices.

Relay

The journey of ancient oils in shaping hair identity extends beyond their initial discovery and ritualistic application. Their enduring legacy manifests in how their properties were understood, passed down through generations, and how their historical use informs contemporary care for textured hair. This is where the science of yesteryear, born of careful observation and trial, connects with our present understanding, allowing for a deeper appreciation of ancestral wisdom. The relay of this knowledge, sometimes unbroken, sometimes rediscovered, forms a vital component of textured hair heritage.

How does Ancient Understanding Validate Modern Hair Science?

For millennia, the effectiveness of ancient oils in hair care was understood through empirical evidence and generations of lived experience. Today, scientific inquiry validates many of these traditional practices. Oils like castor oil , used in ancient Egypt, are known today for their richness in fatty acids and Vitamin E, which promote hair growth, strengthen follicles, and reduce oxidative stress on the scalp (Global Beauty Secrets, 2020; Arab News, 2012). This ancient appreciation for castor oil’s ability to maintain healthy hair growth finds strong backing in contemporary understanding of its biochemical composition.

Similarly, shea butter (Vitellaria paradoxa), a cornerstone of West African hair care, is now recognized for its high content of vitamins A and E, alongside essential fatty acids. These components provide deep moisturizing properties and protect hair from environmental stressors, supporting healthy scalp conditions (Joanna Colomas, 2023). This scientific validation of traditional ingredients strengthens the argument for honoring ancestral knowledge as a source of legitimate hair wellness solutions. The continued use of these oils in modern formulations for textured hair often pairs them with other natural ingredients, a continuation of traditional blending practices (BeautyMatter, 2025).

The efficacy of ancestral oiling practices for textured hair is increasingly affirmed by modern scientific understanding.

The inherent needs of textured hair, particularly its propensity for dryness and fragility, have been consistently addressed by these ancestral practices. Studies show that a high prevalence of hair loss in Sub-Saharan Africa is related to hair practices such as braids and weaves, often associated with traction alopecia (ResearchGate, 2025). This underscores the historical importance of nourishing and protecting these hair types, a function ancient oils inherently served. The understanding that oils help seal in moisture and provide a protective barrier against external aggressors was, in essence, an early form of hair science (Newsweek, 2022).

Consider the case of black seed oil ( Nigella sativa ), traditionally used in ancient Egypt and the Middle East for various purposes, including hair care (KHAMSA, 2023; Sodina Cosmetics, 2024). Modern research indicates that this oil contains high concentrations of Omega fatty acids (3, 6, 7, and 9), amino acids, minerals, and compounds like thymoquinone (Marnys, 2019). These constituents contribute to its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, making it beneficial for scalp health, reducing dandruff, and potentially stimulating hair growth (Sodina Cosmetics, 2024; İnan Tarım, 2024). This scientific breakdown illuminates why ancient figures like Nefertiti incorporated it into their hair care routines (KHAMSA, 2023).

The methods of oil extraction themselves, often cold-pressing, ensured the preservation of the oils’ nutritional and therapeutic properties, a practice that continues to be valued today (Jules Of The Earth, 2024; Sodina Cosmetics, 2024). This continuous thread, from intuitive ancient practice to detailed modern scientific understanding, highlights a profound and enduring connection between the heritage of textured hair care and its effective modern applications.

What Contemporary Hair Care Benefits Arose from Historical Oil Use?

The impact of ancient oils on textured hair identity is perhaps nowhere more apparent than in the contemporary natural hair movement. This movement, gaining significant traction in recent decades, represents a conscious return to embracing and celebrating intrinsic hair textures, often by drawing inspiration from ancestral care practices. The deep historical connection to oils like shea butter and castor oil has meant these ingredients are central to modern formulations for textured hair, providing much-needed moisture, reducing breakage, and promoting healthy scalp conditions (BeautyMatter, 2025; Cécred, 2025).

The practice of hair oiling, with its origins in diverse cultures including Africa, is now globally recognized for its ability to nourish and strengthen hair, reducing dryness and flaking (Newsweek, 2022; Cécred, 2025). For individuals with textured hair, which is prone to dryness and breakage, oils applied to the outer surface serve as a protective shield against environmental aggressors (Newsweek, 2022). This direct link between ancient solutions for dryness and modern product formulations is a powerful illustration of heritage informing current care.

The movement towards natural beauty has also brought greater appreciation for the symbolic power of choosing indigenous oils as an act of cultural authenticity. For Black women, selecting natural oils aligns with a broader embrace of cultural identity and a quiet resistance against Eurocentric beauty standards (BeautyMatter, 2025). This aspect of hair identity, shaped by the historical use of oils, speaks to a legacy of self-determination and cultural pride.

The development of modern hair products rooted in these traditional ingredients ensures that the benefits of ancient oils are accessible to a wider audience, while simultaneously honoring their heritage. The continued use of oils such as jojoba, historically used by Indigenous American cultures and later embraced by Black communities, showcases how versatile and effective these natural solutions truly are for textured hair (BeautyMatter, 2025). The relay of knowledge is not simply about preserving the past; it is about activating it for the present and future.

Reflection

The narrative of ancient oils and their profound impact on hair identity, particularly for textured hair, is a story etched deeply into the ‘Soul of a Strand’. It is a tale not just of physical transformation, but of enduring resilience, cultural continuity, and profound self-expression. From the humble seed to the gleaming strand, these natural elixirs have served as silent witnesses and active participants in shaping how individuals, particularly within Black and mixed-race communities, perceive and present themselves.

This journey through ancestral practices reveals a truth ❉ hair care was, and remains, an intimate dialogue between self and heritage. The oils used centuries ago for their protective and beautifying properties laid down a foundation for a unique understanding of textured hair. They created a lineage of knowledge, a living archive of care that speaks to ingenuity, adaptation, and an unwavering connection to the land.

Each application of oil, whether in a communal ritual or a quiet moment of personal care, echoes the wisdom of those who came before, reminding us that our hair is more than a biological feature. It is a conduit to our past, a canvas for our present, and a proclamation of our future.

The threads of ancient wisdom, carried through the very oils our ancestors pressed, continue to guide our understanding and our reverence for textured hair. This legacy is not static; it is a vibrant, evolving force, inviting us to look back to the source even as we look forward, creating new expressions of an identity rooted in timeless care.