
Roots
The very strands that crown our heads hold stories older than parchment, deeper than the deepest river. They carry whispers from forgotten ages, echoes of ancestral care that bind us to those who walked before. For individuals with textured hair, this connection is particularly profound, a living lineage stretching back to the earliest civilizations.
Our present understanding of hair care, the very quest for moisture and strength, finds a venerable foundation in the practices of ancient Egypt, a civilization whose reverence for beauty and well-being knew no bounds. They understood, intuitively, the profound connection between the vitality of hair and the vitality of self.
Consider, for a moment, the sun-drenched landscapes of the Nile Valley, where the harsh desert climate could strip life from even the most resilient flora. Yet, amidst such conditions, ancient Egyptians cultivated practices that allowed their hair to flourish, defying environmental challenges with ingenuity. This is not merely a study of historical techniques; it is an honoring of a heritage of care, a testament to the enduring wisdom of a people who saw hair as a vibrant marker of identity, status, and spiritual connection. The wisdom they applied to their varied hair types, including those with natural coils and curls, offers compelling insights for us today.

Ancient Hair Anatomy Reflected in Practices
When we speak of hair anatomy, modern science offers intricate details of the cuticle, cortex, and medulla. Yet, the ancients, without microscopes or chemical analyses, possessed an observational understanding of hair’s needs. They recognized, for instance, that dryness was an adversary, and sought to counteract it with rich, emollient substances. The very structure of textured hair, with its unique bends and turns, tends to be more susceptible to moisture loss due to the open nature of its cuticle layers.
Ancient Egyptians, through their persistent application of oils and fats, demonstrated a functional understanding of this inherent vulnerability. They intuitively sought to seal the hair shaft, providing a protective layer against the arid air and harsh sun.
Evidence from archaeological discoveries supports the presence of diverse hair types amongst ancient Egyptians, ranging from straight to wavy and curly. A study conducted by Natalie McCreesh and her team at the University of Manchester, examining hair samples from 18 mummies, revealed the presence of fat-based coatings on nine of them, suggesting a widespread use of styling products for various hair textures (McCreesh, 2011). This practice indicates a universal approach to hair nourishment and setting, applicable across the spectrum of natural hair patterns present within their society. The consistent application of these fatty substances would have been particularly beneficial for those with more coily or kinky textures, helping to compact the cuticle and reduce evaporation.
The enduring wisdom of ancient Egyptian hair care offers a profound connection to the historical practices that honored textured hair, echoing a legacy of resilience and beauty.

Hair Types and Their Honored Place
The portrayal of ancient Egyptians in art, while stylized, offers glimpses into the variety of hair textures present. Historical accounts and archaeological finds, including “afro combs” discovered in tombs, confirm that people with tightly coiled and curly hair formed a part of the Egyptian populace. Rosalyn Beatty, a historical researcher, observes that many ancient Egyptians had “long, wild wavy, loose, medium to tight curls,” akin to contemporary Ethiopian hair textures, and that these hair patterns were styled with braids, twists, and locs.
This recognition establishes a direct link between ancient Egyptian hair practices and the heritage of Black and mixed-race hair care. Their methods, therefore, were not merely for straight hair but adapted for the nuanced needs of all natural textures.
The cultural significance bestowed upon hair also varied by social standing and gender. While priests often shaved their heads for ritual purity, and men typically kept their hair shorter for practicality, women often wore longer styles, sometimes augmented with extensions or wigs. These elaborate coiffures often involved intricate braiding and curling, showcasing the versatility of natural hair and the artistry applied to it.

The Ancestral Lexicon of Hair Care
Though no explicit ancient Egyptian lexicon for “textured hair types” comparable to modern classification systems exists, their practices suggest an intimate knowledge of how different hair responded to various treatments. Their understanding came through observation, experimentation, and a reverence for natural elements.
- Hygienic Rinses ❉ Ancient Egyptians utilized alkali salts from sources such as Wadi El Natron mixed with oils to create soap, indicating a systematic approach to cleansing hair and scalp.
- Styling Fats ❉ Animal fats and beeswax served not only as styling agents but also as occlusives, sealing moisture within the hair shaft and providing a protective barrier.
- Botanical Oils ❉ Castor, almond, moringa, pomegranate, olive, and sesame oils were applied for their moisturizing, strengthening, and hair-growth promoting properties.
The very presence of tools like wide-toothed combs, some dating back to 5000 BCE, suggests an understanding of detangling, a fundamental step in caring for all hair types, especially textured ones. Some combs were even made of ivory or bone, decorated with animal motifs, signifying their status as both practical and ceremonial objects. These tools were not just for superficial styling; they were part of a holistic approach to hair health, designed to maintain the integrity of the strands from root to tip.

Ritual
The rhythm of life in ancient Egypt unfolded with deep respect for daily rituals, and hair care held a central place within this framework. For the ancestors, the act of tending to one’s hair was not merely a chore; it was a sacred connection to the self, a declaration of health, and a reflection of social standing. The sophisticated techniques employed for moisturizing and strengthening textured hair bear witness to their profound understanding of natural ingredients and their applications. From elaborate styling to meticulous preservation, every practice spoke to a deliberate approach to hair wellness, imbued with cultural meaning.

What Hair Ingredients Did Ancient Egyptians Use to Moisturize?
The Egyptian landscape, though arid, provided an abundance of natural resources that served as foundational elements for their hair care regimens. These ingredients were carefully chosen for their hydrating and conditioning properties, acting as precursors to modern moisturizers. Among the most widely used were various plant-derived oils and honey.
Castor Oil, a staple in ancient Egyptian hair care, was revered for its ability to condition and strengthen hair, combating the drying effects of the desert climate. It was applied for its moisturizing properties, promoting healthy hair growth and fortifying follicles. Often, these oils were warmed and massaged into the scalp, allowing for deeper absorption of their nourishing components, a practice that echoes hot oil treatments still valued in textured hair care today. This deep conditioning would have been especially beneficial for coily and kinky hair types, which often crave rich emollients.
Almond Oil, rich in vitamins E and D, provided deep hydration, improving hair elasticity and helping prevent split ends. The use of such oils highlights a perceptive grasp of hair’s physiological needs. Moringa Oil, known as a “miracle oil,” was valued for its lightweight texture and antioxidant content, promoting scalp health and overall hair vitality. The thoughtful selection of these natural oils demonstrates an empirical science of hair care, a knowledge passed down through generations.
Ancient Egyptian hair rituals, steeped in botanical wisdom, offer a timeless blueprint for nurturing textured hair.
Beyond oils, Honey played a vital role in their moisturizing arsenal. A natural humectant, honey draws moisture from the air and seals it into the hair, a property that is highly prized in modern hair care for retaining hydration in textured strands. Honey also possessed antibacterial and antifungal properties, making it beneficial for scalp health. The combined application of oils and honey formed powerful hair masks, reminiscent of contemporary deep conditioning treatments.
Another substance, Beeswax, was frequently employed. While primarily used for styling and holding intricate coiffures, beeswax also offered a protective barrier, sealing moisture and providing a polished finish. This practice would have significantly aided in moisture retention for textured hair, which tends to lose water faster due to its structural characteristics.

How Did Ancient Egyptians Strengthen Hair?
Strengthening hair involved both topical applications and foundational practices. The same oils used for moisturizing, such as Castor Oil and Almond Oil, contributed to hair strength by nourishing the hair shaft and scalp, thus reducing breakage.
Henna, derived from the Lawsonia plant, was a significant component in their hair strengthening regimen. Beyond its use as a dye for coloring gray hair or imparting a reddish tint, henna was valued for its conditioning properties. It helped balance scalp pH and improve hair texture, making strands more resilient. For textured hair, this meant reduced frizz and enhanced structural integrity.
Archaeological findings provide compelling physical evidence of these practices. A study led by Natalie McCreesh of the University of Manchester found that ancient Egyptians used a fat-based gel to style and hold their hair in place, a product that contained long-chain fatty acids like palmitic acid. The presence of this substance on mummified hair, some dating back 3,500 years, indicates its use as a styling product in life, ensuring styles remained fixed and likely contributing to hair’s overall resilience against environmental factors. This fat-based application, while a styling aid, would also have provided a layer of protection and emollients that indirectly strengthened the hair by preventing damage.
Beyond direct applications, the widespread use of Wigs and Extensions also served a protective function, especially for natural hair. Many Egyptians, particularly priests, shaved their heads for hygiene and comfort in the scorching desert. Wigs provided protection from the sun and an avenue for elaborate styling without constantly manipulating one’s natural hair. This practice, much like modern protective styles in textured hair care, reduced exposure to environmental stressors and minimized mechanical damage, allowing natural hair to rest and grow.
Ancient Ingredient Castor Oil |
Traditional Use for Hair Hydration, strength, growth promotion |
Modern Parallel or Benefit Deep conditioning, growth serums, scalp treatments for textured hair |
Ancient Ingredient Almond Oil |
Traditional Use for Hair Deep hydration, elasticity, split end prevention |
Modern Parallel or Benefit Moisture masks, conditioners, hair breakage solutions |
Ancient Ingredient Honey |
Traditional Use for Hair Humectant, antibacterial, scalp soothing |
Modern Parallel or Benefit Moisturizing hair masks, scalp treatments for dryness or irritation |
Ancient Ingredient Henna |
Traditional Use for Hair Coloring, conditioning, strengthening, pH balance |
Modern Parallel or Benefit Natural hair dyes, protein treatments, scalp clarifying products |
Ancient Ingredient Beeswax / Animal Fat |
Traditional Use for Hair Styling hold, protective barrier, moisture seal |
Modern Parallel or Benefit Hair pomades, styling creams, edge controls for textured hair |
Ancient Ingredient These ancestral components reveal a timeless knowledge of hair's needs, bridging past wisdom with contemporary care. |

Relay
The ancient Egyptian approach to hair care represents more than just a collection of ingredients and methods; it is a cultural relay, a hand-off of ancestral wisdom that continues to resonate with textured hair heritage today. The practices they cultivated were rooted in a profound understanding of the body’s connection to its environment, social identity, and even the spiritual realm. This holistic perspective allowed them to adapt and refine their techniques over millennia, leaving a legacy of care that speaks volumes about their ingenuity.

How Did Social Status Influence Hair Care Practices?
In ancient Egypt, hair was a powerful symbol of status, wealth, and beauty. The elaborate hairstyles, wigs, and adornments seen in tomb paintings and artifacts speak to a society where personal grooming was meticulously pursued across all classes, yet with distinct variations. Elite individuals, both men and women, often wore complex wigs, which were crafted from human hair, plant fibers, or even sheep wool, and often stiffened with beeswax and resin.
These wigs protected the scalp from the sun and allowed for a consistently groomed appearance, free from lice, which was a common concern in the hot climate. The ability to afford and maintain such elaborate hairpieces was a clear marker of high standing in society.
The use of hair extensions also dates back to ancient Egypt. Archaeologist Jolanda Bos, while studying skulls from a cemetery at Amarna, discovered a woman buried with approximately 70 hair extensions, intricately fastened in different layers and heights. This particular finding, from a non-mummified body, suggests that elaborate styling, including extensions, was not solely for funerary rites but likely for daily life as well.
Such a complex coiffure would have required significant time and resources, underscoring the social value placed on appearance and the skill of ancient Egyptian hairdressers. The fact that hair of different colors was sometimes used for extensions indicates that hair was a commodity, possibly sourced from multiple individuals to create the desired volume and length.
For the broader populace, hair care was still a priority, albeit with simpler styles and fewer adornments. Regular washing of hair was practiced, often with natural soaps made from alkali salts and oils from the Wadi El Natron region. Combs, carved from wood, bone, or ivory, were essential tools for grooming, some dating back to predynastic times. These daily acts of care, even for those without access to luxurious wigs or elaborate extensions, signify a cultural emphasis on hygiene and presenting oneself well.
The ancient Egyptian reverence for hair, particularly in its textured forms, provided a foundational framework for self-expression and community identity.

What Was the Connection Between Ancient Egyptian Hair Care and Ancestral Practices?
The continuity of hair care practices across the African diaspora finds compelling roots in ancient Egypt. The emphasis on moisturizing, conditioning, and protective styling aligns remarkably with traditional Black hair care rituals passed down through generations. The use of oils like castor and almond, now celebrated in natural hair communities for their nourishing properties, mirrors their ancient application for hydration and strength. This echoes a deep ancestral wisdom that understood the particular needs of textured hair.
A powerful historical example of this ancestral connection is the practice of African Hair Braiding. Ancient Egyptian drawings dating back to 2050 B.C. depict braided hairstyles, a practice that remains a rite of passage and a cornerstone of Black women’s hair care today.
This continuity over millennia demonstrates how these practices are not merely trends, but deeply embedded cultural legacies. The preparation for braiding in ancient times would have involved applying oils and balms for moisture, a meticulous process requiring patience and care, mirroring the “labor of love” often associated with wash day and styling routines for textured hair in contemporary Black communities.
The concept of hair as a symbol of personal power and vitality, prevalent in ancient Egyptian belief systems, also resonates strongly within many African and diasporic cultures. The meticulous care given to hair in ancient Egypt, including styling for the afterlife, speaks to a belief in its enduring spiritual significance. This aligns with a broader African heritage where hair often serves as a medium for communicating identity, spiritual beliefs, and social roles.

Did Ancient Egyptians Use Specific Methods for Scalp Health?
Beyond the hair strands themselves, ancient Egyptians understood the importance of a healthy scalp as the foundation for vibrant hair. Their holistic approach included methods to soothe and nourish the scalp, addressing issues like dryness or irritation.
- Honey Masks ❉ Applied to the scalp, honey’s antibacterial and antifungal properties would have helped maintain a healthy scalp environment, preventing irritation and promoting cleanliness.
- Oil Massages ❉ The practice of massaging warmed oils, such as castor and moringa, into the scalp was common. This action would have stimulated blood circulation, delivering nutrients to the hair follicles and promoting overall scalp wellness.
- PH-Balancing Ingredients ❉ While not explicitly understood in modern scientific terms, the instinctive use of natural ingredients like aloe vera and possibly certain clays in their beauty regimens would have helped maintain the skin’s natural pH, contributing to a balanced scalp environment.
The survival of well-preserved mummified hair, often showing elaborate styles including braids and curls, suggests that the methods used by ancient Egyptians were effective not only for immediate aesthetic appeal but also for long-term hair preservation. This enduring quality speaks to the efficacy of their natural compounds and meticulous application techniques, offering valuable lessons for anyone seeking to sustain the health and beauty of their textured hair.

Reflection
As we gaze upon the intricate braids and rich, cared-for strands of ancient Egyptian mummies, we are not merely observing historical artifacts. We are witnessing a timeless declaration of self, a profound testament to the deep respect our ancestors held for their hair. The Egyptian practices of moisturizing and strengthening textured hair stand as a living archive, a whispered truth from the past that continues to shape our present understanding of beauty and well-being. It is a powerful reminder that the yearning for vibrant, healthy hair is a shared human experience, transcending millennia and geography.
The legacy of ancient Egypt, particularly in its approach to textured hair, invites us to recognize the inherent value of ancestral wisdom. It compels us to consider how the Earth’s natural bounties—oils, honey, plant extracts—were once, and can still be, harnessed for profound nourishment. The meticulous application of these elements, the patient braiding, the protective styling, echo the rhythm of care that pulses through Black and mixed-race communities even today.
This heritage is not static; it is a dynamic, breathing entity, perpetually informing new paths while honoring the old. It teaches us that true hair wellness springs from a mindful connection to our roots, a dedication to nurturing not just the strand, but the spirit within.

References
- McCreesh, Natalie. “Ancient Egyptians used ‘hair gel’.” Nature Middle East, 23 August 2011.
- Bos, Jolanda. “Hairstyles from Akhenaten’s Ancient Egyptian City.” Journal of Egyptian Archaeology, 2014.
- Tassie, G. J. “The social and ritual contextualisation of Ancient Egyptian hair and hairstyles from the Protodynastic to the end of the Old Kingdom.” Thesis, University College London (University of London), 2009.
- Fletcher, Joann. “The Decorated Body in Ancient Egypt ❉ Hairstyles, Cosmetics and Tattoos.” The Clothed Body in the Ancient World, Oxbow Books, 2005.
- Marshall, Amandine. Motherhood and Early Infancy in Ancient Egypt. AUC, 2022.
- Marshall, Amandine. Childhood in Ancient Egypt. AUC, 2024.
- Marshall, Amandine. The Tomb of Tutankhamun ❉ The Other Side of the Story. Mondes Antiques, 2022.
- Redford, D.B. The Oxford Encyclopedia of Ancient Egypt. Vol. II, Oxford, 2001.
- Smith, G. E. and Dawson, W. R. Egyptian Mummies. London, 1924.
- Rosalin, M. and Janssen, Jac. J. Getting Old in Ancient Egypt. London, 1996.