Roots
In the quiet contemplation of a single strand, one finds a universe of ancestral whispers, a legacy stretching back to the earliest human footsteps. How did ancestry shape hair care for textured strands? It is a question that invites us not to merely consider cosmetic practices, but to trace a living history, a genealogy of care interwoven with identity, survival, and profound cultural memory. For those with coils, kinks, and waves, hair is seldom a neutral aspect of self; it is a repository of shared experience, a visible connection to forebears, and a testament to resilience.
To truly understand how ancestry shapes textured hair care, we begin with its very essence ❉ the unique biology that distinguishes it. This is a story of more than just superficial appearance; it delves into the cellular architecture, the growth patterns, and the inherited characteristics that call for a specific, often intuitive, approach to nurture. The hair that springs from our scalp carries genetic blueprints handed down through countless generations, each curve and twist a echo of adaptation and environmental interaction across millennia.
Hair Anatomy and Physiology Specific to Textured Hair
The science of textured hair speaks of unique morphology. While all human hair shares fundamental components – the protein keratin, a cortex, medulla, and cuticle layers – the cross-sectional shape of the hair follicle differs significantly across ancestral lines. Straight hair often emerges from a round follicle, resulting in a cylindrical strand. In contrast, textured hair, particularly tightly coiled patterns, often originates from an elliptical or oval follicle, leading to hair strands that are flat or ribbon-like in cross-section.
This distinctive shape directly influences the hair’s tendency to curl and coil. A flatter cross-section means the hair grows with inherent bends and twists. This helical structure also means the cuticle, the outer protective layer of overlapping scales, does not lie as flat as it would on a straight strand. The raised cuticle in textured hair contributes to its glorious volume and capacity to hold intricate styles, but also means moisture escapes more readily.
The unique bends and turns along the hair shaft create points of weakness, making it more prone to breakage if not handled with profound care. Understanding this inherited structure is the first step in appreciating ancestral care methods, which often prioritized moisture retention and structural integrity long before modern science articulated the reasons.
Ancestry informs the very structure of textured hair, influencing its unique shape and inherent needs for moisture and strength.
Textured Hair Classification Systems
The classification of textured hair has evolved, reflecting both scientific observation and, at times, cultural biases. Early attempts to categorize hair types often reflected colonial perspectives, aiming to impose order on diverse biological expressions. Contemporary systems, while still evolving, aim to provide a more precise vocabulary for communication about hair care. These systems often consider the hair’s curl pattern, density, and strand width.
- Coil Pattern ❉ This describes the shape of the curl, ranging from loose waves to tight, zig-zag coils. Categories like 2A-4C, for instance, offer a visual shorthand for this diversity.
- Density ❉ This refers to the number of individual hair strands on the scalp. High density hair may appear fuller, even if individual strands are fine.
- Strand Width ❉ Hair can be fine, medium, or coarse. This impacts how products absorb and how hair responds to various styling methods.
It’s important to note that no single classification system fully captures the breadth of textured hair’s expression, as each person’s hair is a unique constellation of these characteristics. Ancestral experiences, however, provided a practical, intuitive understanding of these variations. Communities observed how different hair types responded to the environment, available natural resources, and styling techniques, adapting their methods through generations without the need for a scientific chart. This indigenous knowledge, passed down through oral tradition and hands-on teaching, formed the earliest, most reliable classification system of all ❉ one rooted in practical efficacy and shared heritage.
The Essential Lexicon of Textured Hair
The language surrounding textured hair care is rich, drawing from both scientific terms and culturally specific expressions. Words such as “coils,” “kinks,” “waves,” “locs,” and “braids” are more than just descriptors; they carry historical weight and cultural significance. Terms like “cornrows,” originating in African cultures as far back as 3000 BCE, symbolize not just a hairstyle but also tribal identity, social status, and a means of communication.
The vocabulary used to describe textured hair and its care often reflects a reclamation of identity and a celebration of its distinct qualities, moving away from past derogatory terms imposed by oppressive beauty standards. This lexicon is a living testament to ancestral resilience, a collective understanding passed down through generations.
Hair Growth Cycles and Influencing Factors
Hair growth follows distinct cycles ❉ anagen (growth), catagen (transition), and telogen (rest). Textured hair, due to its unique structure, often experiences challenges related to breakage, which can shorten the effective anagen phase, impacting length retention. Ancestry, through generations of environmental adaptation and traditional practices, has contributed to an understanding of how to support these cycles. Nutritional factors, often derived from local flora and fauna, played a critical role in supporting healthy hair growth and scalp well-being.
For example, traditional diets rich in vital nutrients, passed down through family recipes, inadvertently supported optimal hair health. The use of certain plant-based ingredients for topical applications also aimed to create an environment conducive to robust growth, even if the precise biological mechanisms were not then known. This deep, intuitive knowledge of supporting the hair’s natural rhythm against external stressors is a direct legacy of ancestral wisdom.
Ritual
The journey of textured hair care moves beyond fundamental biology into the realm of ritual, a space where tradition, community, and artistry converge. How did ancestry shape hair care for textured strands in the context of styling and adornment? It speaks to a heritage where hair was, and remains, a powerful visual language, a canvas for storytelling, and a connection to collective identity.
The techniques, tools, and transformations seen today bear the unmistakable marks of practices passed down through centuries, each twist, braid, or coil carrying a historical resonance. These styling traditions are not merely aesthetic choices; they are active expressions of cultural continuity, a celebration of inherited beauty, and often, a quiet act of resistance against external pressures.
The very act of styling textured hair often involves communal engagement, a shared experience that reinforces bonds and passes on wisdom. This aspect of collective care, deeply rooted in ancestral practices, transforms a personal routine into a vibrant cultural exchange. It speaks to the profound social meaning of hair, a significance that extends far beyond individual appearance to define community and identity.
Protective Styling Encyclopedia
Protective styles, a cornerstone of textured hair care, have deep ancestral roots, serving practical and symbolic purposes across diverse African cultures. These styles minimize manipulation, shielding hair from environmental aggressors and breakage, thereby aiding length retention. Ancient African societies employed intricate braiding, twisting, and coiling methods, often signifying marital status, age, tribal affiliation, wealth, or spiritual beliefs. For instance, the Himba people of Namibia traditionally employ a mixture of ochre and butterfat (otjize) to coat their hair, forming thick, protective locs that shield against the harsh desert sun while serving as a cultural marker.
During the transatlantic slave trade, protective styles took on a new, profound significance. Enslaved African women, forcibly removed from their homelands and traditional tools, innovated with what was available. They braided rice seeds into their hair for survival, a poignant act of preserving sustenance and cultural knowledge.
Cornrows also served as clandestine maps for escape, a silent language of freedom etched onto the scalp. This historical context underscores that protective styling is more than a beauty practice; it is a legacy of ingenuity, resilience, and survival.
Protective styles represent a living archive of resilience, with roots in ancient traditions of survival and cultural preservation.
Natural Styling and Definition Techniques
The artistry of natural styling for textured hair is a direct continuation of ancestral methods that celebrated the hair’s inherent curl, coil, or wave pattern. Traditional techniques, often involving water and natural oils, focused on enhancing the hair’s intrinsic beauty without altering its structure. Before the widespread use of chemical straighteners, African communities utilized natural ingredients to soften, condition, and define curls. Women in Ethiopia and Somalia, for instance, have historically used Qasil Powder, derived from the leaves of the gob tree, as a cleanser and hair treatment, promoting healthy strands.
The application of plant-based mucilages and emollients, extracted from local botanicals, helped to clump curls, reduce frizz, and create defined styles that honored the hair’s natural form. This historical preference for working with the hair’s given texture, rather than against it, stands as a powerful testament to ancestral wisdom.
Wigs and Hair Extensions Mastery
The use of wigs and hair extensions, while often associated with modern fashion, possesses a history rooted in ancient African societies. Beyond mere adornment, these hairpieces held significant cultural and social importance. In ancient Egypt, for example, wigs served not only as symbols of status and wealth but also offered protection from the sun and were part of intricate beauty rituals. Crafted from human hair, plant fibers, or even wool, these pieces were often adorned with jewels and gold, reflecting a sophisticated understanding of hair artistry and its communicative power.
Over time, the materials and techniques changed, but the underlying purpose of enhancing, protecting, and communicating identity through hair augmentation persisted. This long lineage demonstrates how ancestral ingenuity contributed to the concept of versatile hair expression that continues today.
Heat Styling and Thermal Reconditioning
The relationship between textured hair and heat has a complex historical narrative. While modern thermal reconditioning aims for permanent alteration, historical heat use often involved methods that were less about complete structural change and more about temporary elongation or preparation for styling. The early 20th century saw the widespread introduction of hot combs, tools designed to temporarily straighten textured hair using heat and pressing oils.
This practice, while offering a semblance of conformity to Eurocentric beauty standards that were tragically imposed during periods of oppression, inadvertently led to hair and scalp damage for many. Understanding this historical context—where external pressures often dictated hair practices—helps us appreciate the contemporary movement toward gentler, more protective heat styling, or indeed, the complete avoidance of heat, as a reclamation of ancestral principles that prioritized hair health over imposed ideals.
The Complete Textured Hair Toolkit
The tools used for textured hair care, from antiquity to the present, mirror the ingenuity and adaptation of communities throughout history. Before the advent of modern implements, ancestral practices relied on what nature provided and what human hands could craft. These traditional tools were not just instruments; they were extensions of care rituals, often imbued with cultural significance.
| Tool Category Combs and Detangling Aids |
| Ancestral Counterpart/Practice Wooden combs carved from local trees; fingers used for gentle sectioning and loosening. |
| Modern Reflection/Adaptation Wide-tooth combs, detangling brushes designed to minimize breakage. |
| Tool Category Styling and Sectioning |
| Ancestral Counterpart/Practice Fingers for intricate braiding and twisting; natural fibers for ties. |
| Modern Reflection/Adaptation Styling clips, sectioning clips, elastic bands, satin scrunchies. |
| Tool Category Application of Treatments |
| Ancestral Counterpart/Practice Hands for applying natural oils, butters, and clay mixtures. |
| Modern Reflection/Adaptation Applicator bottles, scalp massaging brushes, spray bottles for hydrating mists. |
| Tool Category Hair Protection |
| Ancestral Counterpart/Practice Cloth wraps, head ties, sleeping on animal hides or natural fibers. |
| Modern Reflection/Adaptation Satin/silk bonnets, scarves, pillowcases. |
| Tool Category These tools, both ancient and contemporary, consistently serve the purpose of nurturing and preserving textured hair, connecting us to a lineage of thoughtful care. |
The progression of tools reflects a continuous effort to best serve the unique needs of textured hair, always with an underlying respect for its fragility and strength. The shift from basic natural elements to specialized modern designs underscores a shared heritage of adapting and innovating for optimal hair well-being.
Relay
The transmission of knowledge across generations, a profound relay of wisdom, deeply informs the regimen of textured hair care. How did ancestry shape hair care for textured strands in terms of holistic well-being and problem-solving? This exploration moves beyond isolated practices to encompass the daily rhythms of care, the mindful selection of ingredients, and the strategic resolution of concerns, all rooted in ancestral understanding.
It speaks to a heritage where hair care is not merely about external appearance, but about an inner connection to wellness, a reflection of balance within the body and spirit. This enduring link between internal health and external vitality represents a sophisticated, time-honored approach to self-care.
The wisdom inherited from forebears often viewed the body as an interconnected system. Hair health, therefore, was intrinsically linked to overall vitality, diet, and spiritual well-being. This holistic perspective, passed down through cultural practices, continues to shape modern approaches to textured hair care, advocating for a regimen that honors both the strand and the soul.
Building Personalized Textured Hair Regimens
Creating a personalized textured hair regimen today draws heavily from ancestral wisdom, which inherently understood the concept of individual needs long before scientific articulation. Traditional communities did not adhere to a single, rigid hair care system. Instead, practices varied based on regional availability of resources, climatic conditions, and individual hair characteristics. This inherent flexibility allowed for tailored approaches, observing how different botanicals or techniques served particular hair types or addressed specific concerns.
For instance, the Basara Arab women of Chad have long used Chebe Powder, a specific blend of herbs, to coat their hair and retain length, a practice passed down through generations within their community. This is a prime example of a highly localized, personalized regimen that has proven efficacy over centuries. This ancestral emphasis on observation, adaptation, and the utilization of local resources provides a powerful framework for constructing modern routines that truly align with one’s unique hair needs.
The Nighttime Sanctuary Essential Sleep Protection and Bonnet Wisdom
The practice of protecting hair during sleep, now often associated with bonnets and satin pillowcases, has historical precedence rooted in both practicality and cultural significance. Ancestral communities understood the physical interaction between hair and sleep surfaces, which could lead to tangling, breakage, and moisture loss for textured strands. While specific materials varied, the concept of covering or securing hair at night to preserve styles and maintain hair health was common. In some African traditions, head coverings were worn not only for daily adornment but also for protection during sleep, preserving intricate styles or maintaining cleanliness.
The modern satin bonnet, therefore, is a contemporary manifestation of this ancient wisdom, offering a smooth surface that reduces friction and helps retain moisture, a crucial aspect for maintaining the integrity of textured hair. This practice connects us to a heritage of meticulous care, recognizing the continuous need to protect hair from friction and dehydration, even during repose.
Ingredient Deep Dives for Textured Hair Needs
The efficacy of many modern hair care ingredients for textured strands finds its genesis in ancestral knowledge of natural botanicals. For generations, communities across Africa and the diaspora have utilized specific plants, oils, and butters for their restorative and protective properties. This traditional knowledge forms a living pharmacopeia, providing solutions for cleansing, conditioning, and strengthening hair.
- Shea Butter ❉ From the Karite tree, historically used across West Africa for its deep moisturizing and sealing properties. It was, and remains, a cornerstone for conditioning textured hair and protecting the scalp.
- African Black Soap ❉ Originating from West Africa (Ghana, Nigeria, Benin), this cleanser, made from plantain skins, cocoa pods, and shea tree bark, offers deep cleansing without stripping essential moisture, a balance crucial for textured hair.
- Baobab Oil ❉ Rich in omega fatty acids, this oil from the baobab tree, prevalent in Central and West Africa, was traditionally used for hydration and overall hair health, contributing to elasticity.
- Henna ❉ While widely known for coloring, various communities also used henna (Lawsonia inermis L.) as a conditioning treatment, strengthening the hair shaft and promoting scalp health, especially in North Africa.
- Chebe Powder ❉ An herbal mixture from Chad, renowned for its ability to retain length by minimizing breakage for tightly coiled hair.
These ingredients were not simply applied; their preparation and use often involved specific rituals, passed down through families, enhancing their perceived efficacy and reinforcing their connection to cultural practices. The scientific community today increasingly validates the benefits of these ancestral ingredients, bridging the gap between traditional wisdom and contemporary understanding.
Textured Hair Problem Solving Compendium
Ancestral practices offered holistic solutions to common textured hair concerns, often drawing from an intimate understanding of local plant resources and communal support systems. The contemporary pursuit of remedies for issues like dryness, breakage, and scalp irritation stands as a continuation of these historical efforts. For dryness, traditional methods involved consistent application of natural oils and butters, often combined with water, to create a moisture-sealing layer. Breakage, a persistent challenge for textured hair due to its structural characteristics, was addressed through protective styling and gentle handling, practices observed as far back as pre-colonial African societies.
For scalp health, traditional communities employed plant-based cleansers and anti-inflammatory herbs. An ethnobotanical study in Afar, Northeastern Ethiopia, identified 17 plant species used for hair and skin care, with Ziziphus Spina-Christi (L.) Willd. noted for its anti-dandruff properties, used as a shampoo-like cleanser. This deep, practical wisdom in problem-solving, passed down through generations, continues to shape modern approaches to textured hair well-being, emphasizing careful handling, protection, and the potent properties of natural ingredients.
Holistic Influences on Hair Health
The ancestral perspective on hair health was inherently holistic, recognizing that the vitality of strands was intrinsically linked to overall physical, mental, and spiritual well-being. This viewpoint extended far beyond topical applications, embracing diet, communal practices, and even spiritual beliefs as integral to hair care. Traditional African wellness philosophies often incorporated balanced nutrition, emphasizing locally sourced foods that naturally provided the vitamins and minerals essential for strong hair growth. Beyond diet, the communal aspect of hair care—mothers styling daughters’ hair, or community members gathering for braiding sessions—fostered social bonds and reduced stress, indirectly contributing to healthier hair.
Hair itself was often viewed as a spiritual conduit or a marker of identity and destiny, imbuing its care with sacred significance. This deep reverence for hair, coupled with practices that nourished the body and soul, shaped a comprehensive approach to hair health that remains remarkably relevant today. Understanding these ancestral philosophies helps us appreciate that textured hair care is a holistic journey, connecting the individual to their physical self, their community, and their rich cultural heritage.
Relay
The journey of textured hair care, from its elemental biological roots to its intricate styling practices and holistic regimens, finds its profoundest expression in the concept of relay – the continuous, vibrant transmission of knowledge, struggle, and triumph across generations. How did ancestry shape hair care for textured strands? This question unveils a narrative not of simple evolution, but of enduring legacy, where the echoes of ancient practices meet the demands of contemporary identity.
It is a testament to the cultural intelligence and resilience of Black and mixed-race peoples, who have consistently adapted, innovated, and preserved a unique heritage of hair care against formidable historical currents. The understanding we gain from this historical relay allows for a deeper appreciation of the cultural wealth embedded within every coil, kink, and wave.
The Genetic Blueprint and Ancestral Environments
The very structure of textured hair is a testament to the long interplay between human genetics and ancestral environments. Genetic adaptations, honed over countless generations in diverse climates, particularly in regions of Africa, resulted in hair types that provided significant advantages. Tightly coiled hair, for example, offers protection from the sun’s intense UV radiation, shielding the scalp from direct exposure. This hair structure also acts as a natural insulator, regulating scalp temperature in both heat and cold.
The density and curl pattern allowed for effective moisture retention in arid climates by trapping a layer of air close to the scalp, minimizing evaporation. This biological heritage, deeply rooted in the ancestral environment, inherently dictated the care practices developed over millennia – practices that prioritized hydration and protection. The genetic makeup of textured hair, therefore, is not merely a random occurrence; it is a meticulously crafted artifact of human adaptation, passed down through our lineage, carrying within it the unspoken instruction for its optimal care. (Simmons, 2015, p. 18).
Colonialism and The Erasure of Hair Identity
The arrival of colonialism and the transatlantic slave trade marked a tragic disruption in the relay of ancestral hair care wisdom, attempting to sever the profound connection between textured hair and identity. Enslaved Africans were often subjected to dehumanizing practices, including the forcible shaving of heads, a deliberate act to strip them of cultural markers—their tribe, status, and family background were often symbolized by their hair. This act of violent erasure aimed to disorient and subjugate, replacing centuries of dignified hair traditions with conditions of neglect and imposed standards. In the Americas, resources for traditional care were scarce, compelling ingenuity.
Enslaved individuals used whatever was available—cooking oils, animal fats, and rudimentary tools—to maintain their hair, often in secret, as a silent act of defiance and a desperate clinging to identity. The forced adoption of Eurocentric beauty ideals, where straight hair was deemed “good” and textured hair “bad,” permeated societies, leaving an enduring legacy of discrimination. This historical period powerfully demonstrates how external oppressive forces sought to dismantle the heritage of textured hair care, transforming it from a source of pride to a site of struggle and resilience.
The Natural Hair Movement A Reclamation of Heritage
The Natural Hair Movement, burgeoning in the 20th century and resurging in the 21st, stands as a profound reclamation of ancestral identity and a powerful counter-narrative to centuries of imposed beauty standards. This movement represents a deliberate return to honoring and celebrating the inherent qualities of textured hair, rejecting the societal pressure to chemically alter its natural form. Pioneers like Madame C.J. Walker, while known for products that facilitated straightening, also laid groundwork for Black hair care entrepreneurship, though her methods were sometimes controversial in retrospect.
Later, figures of the Civil Rights and Black Power movements of the 1960s and 70s proudly wore Afros and other natural styles, transforming hair into a symbol of political defiance, self-acceptance, and a visible connection to African heritage. Angela Davis, for example, with her iconic Afro, embodied this powerful statement of identity and resistance. This shift was not merely a change in aesthetics; it signified a deep psychological and cultural liberation, a collective decision to reconnect with ancestral forms of beauty and care. It validates the long-held indigenous knowledge that textured hair is inherently beautiful and requires a unique, respectful approach. The movement actively seeks to rebuild the relay of heritage, sharing knowledge about natural care, traditional ingredients, and the cultural significance of textured hair, ensuring that ancestral wisdom continues to shape contemporary practices.
Modern Science Validating Ancient Wisdom
Contemporary scientific research increasingly serves as a validation of ancient hair care wisdom, providing empirical explanations for practices long understood through observation and tradition. Ingredients used for centuries by ancestral communities, such as shea butter and various botanical extracts, are now analyzed for their chemical compositions and mechanisms of action. Studies on the physical properties of textured hair, confirming its susceptibility to dryness and breakage, explain why ancestral methods focused so heavily on moisture retention and protective styling. For example, the hydrating and sealing properties of shea butter, used historically across West Africa, are now scientifically attributed to its rich fatty acid content and occlusive nature.
Similarly, the efficacy of traditional herbs for scalp health or length retention, such as Chebe Powder (from Chad), is being explored for its ability to strengthen the hair shaft and minimize breakage. This convergence of traditional knowledge and modern scientific understanding reinforces the authority of ancestral practices, demonstrating that the intuitive care methods passed down through generations were, in fact, remarkably effective and biologically sound. It strengthens the relay, providing a contemporary language for a timeless heritage.
| Ancestral Practice/Ingredient Shea Butter |
| Traditional Application and Cultural Significance Used across West Africa for moisturizing, sealing, and protecting hair from sun. Symbol of natural abundance. |
| Modern Scientific Understanding/Benefit Rich in fatty acids (oleic, stearic), vitamins A and E; forms a protective barrier, reduces transepidermal water loss. |
| Ancestral Practice/Ingredient Chebe Powder |
| Traditional Application and Cultural Significance Basara Arab women of Chad use it to coat hair for length retention, ritualistically applied. A symbol of identity. |
| Modern Scientific Understanding/Benefit Strengthens hair shaft, reduces breakage, helps retain length by sealing cuticles and minimizing friction. |
| Ancestral Practice/Ingredient Plant-based Washes (e.g. Ziziphus spina-christi) |
| Traditional Application and Cultural Significance Used in regions like Ethiopia as natural cleansers and anti-dandruff treatments. Reflects local resourcefulness. |
| Modern Scientific Understanding/Benefit Saponins and other compounds provide gentle cleansing properties without stripping natural oils; often possess antimicrobial qualities. |
| Ancestral Practice/Ingredient The enduring wisdom of ancestral practices continues to resonate, with scientific inquiry increasingly revealing the deep rationale behind these time-honored traditions. |
The deep study of traditional plant uses, known as ethnobotany, offers further insights into the specific compounds and applications that contribute to hair health. For instance, studies on African plants used for hair care identify a wide array of species with properties ranging from stimulating hair growth to treating scalp conditions. This research not only substantiates traditional remedies but also provides avenues for future innovations rooted in ancestral knowledge, continuing the vital relay of wisdom across time.
Reflection
The journey through the ancestral shaping of textured hair care concludes not with an end, but with a profound continuation. Each strand, in its unique configuration, carries an enduring heritage—a living legacy woven from biological necessity, cultural adaptation, and unwavering resilience. The very care we extend to textured hair today is a profound conversation with the past, an acknowledgment of the wisdom that flowed through generations, preserving practices vital for well-being and identity. The ‘Soul of a Strand’ ethos finds its deepest meaning in this continuous dialogue, recognizing hair as more than protein and pigment; it is a vibrant archive, a testament to survival, creativity, and the power of inherited knowledge.
From the intrinsic need for moisture in coiled structures, understood through ages of observation, to the intricate protective styles that were at once adornment and defiant act, ancestry has drawn the map of our care. It is a map sketched by the hands of foremothers, painted with indigenous oils, and defined by the quiet strength of communities. As we select our conditioners, choose our styling techniques, or simply admire the beauty of a natural crown, we are participating in a living ritual, an unbroken chain of connection to those who came before. This heritage stands as a radiant reminder ❉ textured hair care is an act of honoring history, celebrating identity, and shaping a future where every strand is recognized for its inherent worth and its profound story.
References
- Byrd, A. D. & Tharps, L. L. (2001). Hair Story ❉ Untangling the Roots of Black Hair in America. St. Martin’s Press.
- Rosado, S. (2003). Braided Archives ❉ Black Hair as a Site of Diasporic Transindividuation. YorkSpace.
- Simmons, K. E. (2015). Pajones, Afros, and Rizos ❉ Dominican Women, Afro-Dominicanidad, and the Global Natural Hair Movement. University of South Carolina.
- Sieber, R. & Herreman, F. (2000). Hair in African Art and Culture. Museum for African Art.
- Callender, V. D. et al. (2013). Contemporary African-American Hair Care Practices. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 6(8), 22–27.
- Gorelick, A. (2015). Clinical and Anthropological Perspectives on Chemical Relaxing of Afro-textured Hair. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 29(7), 1276-1282.
- Mohammed, A. O. et al. (2024). Cosmetopoeia of African Plants in Hair Treatment and Care ❉ Topical Nutrition and the Antidiabetic Connection? Diversity, 16(2), 96.
- Adebayo, M. A. & Adebayo, S. B. (2024). Cosmetic Ethnobotany Used by Tribal Women in Epe Communities of Lagos State, Nigeria. Juniper Publishers.
- Ahmed, I. & Alemu, K. (2025). Plants used for Hair and Skin Health Care by Local Communities of Afar, Northeastern Ethiopia. Ethnobotany Research and Applications, 29, 1-14.
- BLAM UK CIC. (2022). The History of Black Hair.