Roots

The whisper of coiled strands, the quiet hum of a scalp well-tended through generations untold: this is where our story begins. For those of us whose lineage carries the legacy of textured hair, the scalp is not merely a foundation; it represents a living chronicle, a site of ancient wisdom passed down through touch and tradition. How did ancestral practices safeguard this vital terrain? To understand this deeply, we must first journey into the very architecture of textured hair, recognizing how inherited practices responded to its unique biology and how this knowledge, held in memory and custom, protects us even today.

A strand of textured hair, whether a gentle wave or a resilient coil, springs from a follicle that is inherently distinct. Unlike straight hair, the follicles producing curls possess an elliptical, often flattened shape, leading to a hair shaft that is also elliptical or ribbon-like in cross-section. This structural characteristic means that natural oils, produced by the sebaceous glands nestled within the scalp, encounter a more challenging path traversing the length of the strand.

Consequently, textured hair often experiences a natural predisposition towards dryness along its length, yet the scalp itself, as the source, requires careful balance. Ancestral understanding, born of keen observation over countless seasons, recognized this fundamental biological truth long before microscopes revealed cellular intricacies.

Consider the scalp, a vibrant ecosystem. It shelters millions of hair follicles, each a tiny organ performing the wondrous work of growth. The outermost layer, the epidermis, forms a protective barrier, a shield against external elements and the subtle loss of hydration. Beneath, the dermis teems with blood vessels, nerves, and those crucial sebaceous glands.

The practices of our forebears implicitly understood the interconnectedness of these layers. They intuitively grasped that a thriving scalp provided the optimal environment for hair to reach its fullest expression, healthy and strong. Their methods were a direct response to maintaining this delicate balance, a symphony of biology and environment.

The concentrated clay embodies holistic hair care rituals, offering gentle cleansing and mineral nourishment for textured hair strands to promote health and longevity, echoing ancestral practices. Its simple presence honors the connection between earth, heritage, and the vitality of the scalp

Understanding Hair’s First Home

The scalp’s health, a fundamental pillar of hair vitality, was central to ancestral practices. The skin on the scalp, like all skin, forms a barrier, a delicate membrane that protects the deeper structures while regulating moisture. When this barrier is compromised by harsh climates, environmental irritants, or abrasive manipulation, it can lead to dryness, irritation, and even conditions that hinder hair growth.

Ancient communities, living in diverse climates, developed nuanced approaches to fortify this barrier and support the scalp’s natural functions. Their methods often involved working with nature’s own bounty, understanding that the earth provided solutions for its children.

Ancestral practices secured the scalp’s health by honoring its biological distinctiveness and the unique needs of textured hair.

The classification of textured hair types, though formalized in modern systems, holds echoes of older, informal understandings. Historically, communities often described hair not by numerical patterns but by its appearance, its feel, its response to moisture, and its cultural significance. These descriptions, passed down through oral traditions, informed specific care rituals. A hair that “drank” moisture differently, or one that “held” a style in a particular way, would receive tailored attention, guiding the application of specific emollients or the selection of protective arrangements.

The monochrome portrait celebrates the beauty of braided textured hair, echoing ancestral strength and cultural expression. The meticulous braiding technique highlights the diverse styling possibilities within Black hair traditions, while the subject's gaze embodies resilience and a deep connection to heritage through thoughtful expressive styling choices and holistic hair care philosophies

Traditional Lexicon of Scalp Wellness

The language of ancestral hair care is rich with terms that point directly to scalp vitality. These words, often lost in translation or simplification, described specific textures, conditions, and the remedies applied. They spoke of the scalp’s ‘thirst,’ its ‘comfort,’ and its ‘resilience.’ These terms were not merely descriptive; they were prescriptive, guiding the practitioner in a holistic assessment of the hair and its generative base. The very act of naming these states instilled a deeper reverence for the scalp’s well-being.

  • “Abusua Tiri” (Akan, Ghana): Refers to the collective head of family, implying shared heritage and the generational continuity of hair practices.
  • “Aba-iri” (Yoruba, Nigeria): Describes certain tightly coiled hair types, indicating a hair structure that benefits greatly from intensive scalp moisturizing and gentle handling.
  • “Zingisa” (Xhosa, Southern Africa): A verb meaning to massage or rub, often associated with the application of oils or herbal pastes directly onto the scalp for nourishment and stimulation.

The cycle of hair growth ❉ anagen (growth), catagen (transition), telogen (resting), and exogen (shedding) ❉ was not understood in microscopic detail, yet its rhythms were recognized. The observation of shedding, the periods of slow or rapid growth, influenced practices like seasonal hair care regimens, rituals for new growth, and the timing for significant styling transformations. These practices were woven into daily life and seasonal cycles, reflecting a deep respect for the natural progression of life and renewal. The interconnectedness of internal health, diet, and scalp vitality was also implicitly understood, often reflected in dietary customs that prioritized nutrient-rich foods that supported overall well-being, hair included.

Ritual

From the deepest roots of biological understanding, the narrative of ancestral hair care blossoms into the realm of ritual ❉ a deliberate sequence of actions, often imbued with spiritual or communal meaning, all designed to safeguard the scalp and its precious strands. How did these time-honored styling methods, tools, and transformations directly contribute to the protection of textured scalp? The answer lies in their ingenuity, their patience, and their profound connection to the rhythm of life itself.

Consider the legacy of protective styling, a cornerstone of textured hair heritage. Braids, twists, cornrows, and various forms of intricate coiling were not merely aesthetic choices. They were acts of preservation. By gathering and securing the hair close to the scalp, these styles minimized exposure to environmental aggressors ❉ sun, wind, dust ❉ which can strip the scalp of moisture and natural oils, leading to dryness and irritation.

Furthermore, they reduced daily manipulation, a common cause of breakage and stress on the hair follicle, thereby allowing the scalp a period of rest and recuperation. The communal aspects of creating these styles, often taking hours and involving multiple hands, fostered intergenerational bonding and ensured the transmission of these vital techniques.

The interplay of light on the leaf's surface and within the water droplets evokes a sense of depth and tranquility, mirroring the holistic approach to textured hair care that seeks to nourish and protect the delicate balance of natural formations, patterns, celebrating ancestral heritage and wellness.

How Did Traditional Styles Safeguard the Scalp’s Surface?

The ingenuity of ancestral protective styles extended beyond simple containment. Many traditions involved incorporating nourishing agents directly onto the scalp before or during the styling process. Oils, butters, and herbal pastes were applied to the partings, offering a continuous source of hydration and a barrier against elements.

This systematic application meant that every section of the scalp received targeted attention, a meticulous approach that ensured comprehensive protection. The styles themselves, when executed with appropriate tension, also allowed for air circulation, preventing the buildup of heat and sweat that can create an environment conducive to scalp issues.

Head wraps and coverings also hold a significant place in this heritage. Beyond their symbolic, religious, or aesthetic value, they provided a literal layer of protection, particularly in harsh climates. A well-tied wrap shielded the scalp from intense sun, cold winds, or abrasive dust, all of which can contribute to dehydration and discomfort. This external shield complimented the internal care provided by oils and protective styles, forming a multi-layered defense.

Intricate cornrows converge, unveiling the geometric precision of heritage hairstyles and the artistry of Black hair traditions. Each braided row symbolizes protective styling, while the interplay of light emphasizes the smooth scalp and ancestral connection, reflecting a holistic approach to hair care

What Ancestral Tools Served Scalp Integrity?

The tools employed in ancestral hair care were often simple, yet profoundly effective. Combs carved from wood or bone, picks crafted from natural materials, and even fingers themselves, were used with a deliberate gentleness. The design of these tools, with wide-set teeth or smooth surfaces, reduced snagging and pulling, minimizing trauma to the hair shaft and, crucially, to the delicate scalp underneath.

The focus was on detangling with patience, on sectioning with precision, and on applying tension thoughtfully, rather than aggressively. This careful handling prevented physical stress on the hair follicles, which can lead to thinning or irritation over time.

Consider too the use of natural clays and specific types of earth, employed not only for cleansing but also for their therapeutic properties on the scalp. These materials, often rich in minerals, could absorb excess oils, gently exfoliate, and provide soothing benefits. They were applied as masks or washes, then carefully rinsed, leaving the scalp refreshed without stripping it of its natural defenses. These practices highlight a sophisticated understanding of the scalp as skin, requiring both cleansing and conditioning.

Traditional hair styling rituals, from intricate braids to protective wraps, inherently prioritized the scalp’s health through reduced exposure and mindful manipulation.

The historical presence of hair extensions and wigs, particularly in ancient Egypt, also speaks to early forms of scalp protection. While often associated with status or beauty, these adornments provided a layer of insulation, safeguarding the natural hair and scalp from environmental elements. The wigs found in Egyptian tombs, for instance, often had a fatty substance applied to the hair (McCreesh et al.

2011), which would have contributed to keeping the hair supple and potentially offered a protective layer on the scalp beneath, especially if the head was shaved for hygiene or comfort. This practice demonstrates an early recognition of the benefits of creating a barrier between the scalp and the external world.

Relay

From the elemental understanding of the scalp’s architecture and the purposeful art of styling, we arrive at the living current of daily regimen and problem-solving, a relay of wisdom that echoes through generations. How do ancestral practices inform holistic care and problem-solving, always rooted in a heritage that prioritizes the scalp’s well-being? This segment explores the meticulous daily and nightly rituals, the profound knowledge of natural ingredients, and the traditional responses to scalp concerns, all as cornerstones of enduring scalp health.

Playful experimentation with bobby pins embodies self-expression through textured hair, embracing both its natural pattern and incorporating modern blonde highlights. This visual moment celebrates individualized styling rooted in heritage while exploring contemporary flair, capturing the essence of personal identity with confidence and freedom

How Does Ancestral Wisdom Inform Our Care Rituals Today?

Building a hair regimen that truly serves textured hair means listening to the quiet counsel of our ancestors. Their routines were not about product lines or trends; they were about consistent, intuitive care that resonated with the body’s natural rhythms. Nighttime rituals, for instance, were a cornerstone. The simple act of covering the hair before sleep, whether with a woven cap, a soft fabric, or a silk wrap, was a practical genius born of necessity.

This protection shielded the hair and scalp from the friction of rough sleeping surfaces, preventing moisture loss and preserving intricate styles. This ancient practice, now popularized by the modern bonnet, speaks to an unbroken chain of knowledge concerning friction and moisture preservation. It is a testament to the ancestral understanding that the scalp, like all skin, needs an undisturbed environment to rest and regenerate.

The legacy of this daily and nightly care is deeply scientific, even if the formal scientific language was yet to be developed. The scalp’s skin barrier is constantly working to prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL). When we sleep, especially on absorbent fabrics, moisture can be drawn away from the scalp, leading to dryness and potential irritation. Ancestral coverings acted as a protective envelope, minimizing this evaporative loss and maintaining a humid microclimate around the scalp, which is ideal for both scalp hydration and hair strand resilience.

The daily rituals of ancestral hair care, especially nighttime protection, embody a profound understanding of scalp moisture and friction prevention.
The portrait captures the fusion of heritage and artistry, spotlighting an innovative textured hairstyle accented with geometric details. This visual expression showcases individual identity, while honoring cultural roots and embracing future styling trends and demonstrating the beauty and versatility of holistic approaches to textured hair

What Traditional Ingredients Supported Scalp Vitality?

The ancestral pharmacopoeia for scalp health was vast, drawing directly from the bountiful earth. Natural ingredients, often locally sourced, were not chosen arbitrarily; their properties were learned through generations of trial, observation, and inherited wisdom. These ingredients formed the backbone of effective remedies for common scalp conditions, demonstrating a sophisticated, empirical understanding of botanical properties.

Consider the profound role of shea butter ( Vitellaria paradoxa ), a staple across West Africa. This rich fat, extracted from the nuts of the shea tree, was a primary agent for skin and scalp care for millennia. Its high content of fatty acids (oleic, stearic, linoleic), coupled with vitamins A and E, made it an exceptional emollient and anti-inflammatory agent (Nahm, 2011; Typology, 2023). Traditionally applied directly to the scalp, shea butter created a protective barrier, reducing moisture loss and soothing irritation, particularly in arid climates.

Its efficacy in preventing transepidermal water loss was recognized long before scientific quantification (Science, 2009). This practice, pervasive across diverse ethnic groups, serves as a powerful instance of how ancestral knowledge directly protected the textured scalp against environmental challenges and internal imbalances. The application was a sensory experience, a slow, patient process of melting the butter and massaging it into the scalp, stimulating circulation and ensuring thorough distribution of its healing properties. This specific historical example shows a widespread, culturally integrated practice that directly addressed the common issue of scalp dryness and sensitivity in regions with harsh environmental conditions.

Other ingredients and their historical applications include:

  1. Castor Oil ( Ricinus communis ): Widely utilized across African cultures, particularly in ancient Egypt and parts of West Africa. This viscous oil was applied to the scalp for its moisturizing properties and its perceived ability to support hair growth and density. Its ricinoleic acid content is thought to stimulate circulation.
  2. Aloe Vera ( Aloe barbadensis miller ): Used for its soothing and healing properties across various indigenous traditions. The gel from the aloe plant was applied to irritated or inflamed scalps to calm discomfort and provide hydration, a testament to its natural anti-inflammatory compounds.
  3. Clay and Earth-Based Washes ❉ In some traditions, particular clays (like kaolin) or earth compounds were mixed with water and herbs to create purifying washes for the scalp. These natural agents gently cleansed by absorbing impurities and excess oil without stripping the scalp’s protective layer, leaving it balanced and revitalized.
This striking portrait celebrates the beauty of natural, Afro-textured hair, reflecting ancestral heritage and promoting holistic hair care. The image invites contemplation on self-expression through expressive styling while embracing the unique textures and forms inherent in coiled, natural hair, fostering a powerful narrative

How Were Scalp Concerns Addressed by Our Ancestors?

Ancestral communities addressed scalp concerns ❉ dryness, flaking, discomfort ❉ through preventative measures and targeted remedies. The consistent application of natural oils and butters, as seen with shea butter, served as a primary defense against common issues arising from environmental exposure or internal states. Scalp massages, often performed during cleansing or oiling rituals, were not just luxurious; they were therapeutic, stimulating blood flow to the follicles and assisting in the distribution of sebum and applied products. This enhanced circulation supported nutrient delivery to the hair bulb, contributing to a healthier scalp environment.

The holistic influence on hair health, deeply embedded in ancestral wellness philosophies, extended beyond topical applications. Diet, spiritual practices, and community well-being were all seen as interconnected with physical vitality, including the health of hair and scalp. Consuming nutrient-rich foods, engaging in mindful living, and fostering strong communal bonds were understood to contribute to overall health, which in turn manifested as a healthy physical appearance. The concept of beauty was never superficial; it was a reflection of inner balance and harmonious living, a heritage that continues to guide our understanding of true wellness.

Relay

From the elemental understanding of the scalp’s architecture and the purposeful art of styling, we arrive at the living current of daily regimen and problem-solving, a relay of wisdom that echoes through generations. How do ancestral practices inform holistic care and problem-solving, always rooted in a heritage that prioritizes the scalp’s well-being? This segment explores the meticulous daily and nightly rituals, the profound knowledge of natural ingredients, and the traditional responses to scalp concerns, all as cornerstones of enduring scalp health.

This textural display of rice, a staple ingredient, invokes notions of purity, mirroring the search for natural and authentic ingredients suitable for the health and vitality of textured hair, honoring ancestral practices and nurturing holistic well-being for future generations.

How Does Ancestral Wisdom Inform Our Care Rituals Today?

Building a hair regimen that truly serves textured hair means listening to the quiet counsel of our ancestors. Their routines were not about product lines or trends; they were about consistent, intuitive care that resonated with the body’s natural rhythms. Nighttime rituals, for instance, were a cornerstone. The simple act of covering the hair before sleep, whether with a woven cap, a soft fabric, or a silk wrap, was a practical genius born of necessity.

This protection shielded the hair and scalp from the friction of rough sleeping surfaces, preventing moisture loss and preserving intricate styles. This ancient practice, now popularized by the modern bonnet, speaks to an unbroken chain of knowledge concerning friction and moisture preservation. It is a testament to the ancestral understanding that the scalp, like all skin, needs an undisturbed environment to rest and regenerate.

The legacy of this daily and nightly care is deeply scientific, even if the formal scientific language was yet to be developed. The scalp’s skin barrier is constantly working to prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL). When we sleep, especially on absorbent fabrics, moisture can be drawn away from the scalp, leading to dryness and potential irritation. Ancestral coverings acted as a protective envelope, minimizing this evaporative loss and maintaining a humid microclimate around the scalp, which is ideal for both scalp hydration and hair strand resilience.

The daily rituals of ancestral hair care, especially nighttime protection, embody a profound understanding of scalp moisture and friction prevention.
This evocative monochrome portrait celebrates afro hair's natural coiled beauty and cultural significance, highlighted by skillful lighting emphasizing textured detail. The portrait links ancestral heritage and expressive styling, echoing a blend of visual artistry and holistic self-care through the timeless form of a leather jacket

What Traditional Ingredients Supported Scalp Vitality?

The ancestral pharmacopoeia for scalp health was vast, drawing directly from the bountiful earth. Natural ingredients, often locally sourced, were not chosen arbitrarily; their properties were learned through generations of trial, observation, and inherited wisdom. These ingredients formed the backbone of effective remedies for common scalp conditions, demonstrating a sophisticated, empirical understanding of botanical properties.

Consider the profound role of shea butter ( Vitellaria paradoxa ), a staple across West Africa. This rich fat, extracted from the nuts of the shea tree, was a primary agent for skin and scalp care for millennia. Its high content of fatty acids (oleic, stearic, linoleic), coupled with vitamins A and E, made it an exceptional emollient and anti-inflammatory agent (Nahm, 2011; Typology, 2023). Traditionally applied directly to the scalp, shea butter created a protective barrier, reducing moisture loss and soothing irritation, particularly in arid climates.

Its efficacy in preventing transepidermal water loss was recognized long before scientific quantification (Science, 2009). This practice, pervasive across diverse ethnic groups, serves as a powerful instance of how ancestral knowledge directly protected the textured scalp against environmental challenges and internal imbalances. The application was a sensory experience, a slow, patient process of melting the butter and massaging it into the scalp, stimulating circulation and ensuring thorough distribution of its healing properties. This specific historical example shows a widespread, culturally integrated practice that directly addressed the common issue of scalp dryness and sensitivity in regions with harsh environmental conditions.

Other ingredients and their historical applications include:

  1. Castor Oil ( Ricinus communis ): Widely utilized across African cultures, particularly in ancient Egypt and parts of West Africa. This viscous oil was applied to the scalp for its moisturizing properties and its perceived ability to support hair growth and density. Its ricinoleic acid content is thought to stimulate circulation.
  2. Aloe Vera ( Aloe barbadensis miller ): Used for its soothing and healing properties across various indigenous traditions. The gel from the aloe plant was applied to irritated or inflamed scalps to calm discomfort and provide hydration, a testament to its natural anti-inflammatory compounds.
  3. Clay and Earth-Based Washes ❉ In some traditions, particular clays (like kaolin) or earth compounds were mixed with water and herbs to create purifying washes for the scalp. These natural agents gently cleansed by absorbing impurities and excess oil without stripping the scalp’s protective layer, leaving it balanced and revitalized.
This evocative portrait captures the essence of natural Black hair traditions through its textured coils, expressive styling, and confident gaze. It honors cultural heritage and celebrates modern beauty with its interplay of shadows, fostering dialogue on textured hair forms and identity

How Were Scalp Concerns Addressed by Our Ancestors?

Ancestral communities addressed scalp concerns ❉ dryness, flaking, discomfort ❉ through preventative measures and targeted remedies. The consistent application of natural oils and butters, as seen with shea butter, served as a primary defense against common issues arising from environmental exposure or internal states. Scalp massages, often performed during cleansing or oiling rituals, were not just luxurious; they were therapeutic, stimulating blood flow to the follicles and assisting in the distribution of sebum and applied products. This enhanced circulation supported nutrient delivery to the hair bulb, contributing to a healthier scalp environment.

The holistic influence on hair health, deeply embedded in ancestral wellness philosophies, extended beyond topical applications. Diet, spiritual practices, and community well-being were all seen as interconnected with physical vitality, including the health of hair and scalp. Consuming nutrient-rich foods, engaging in mindful living, and fostering strong communal bonds were understood to contribute to overall health, which in turn manifested as a healthy physical appearance. The concept of beauty was never superficial; it was a reflection of inner balance and harmonious living, a heritage that continues to guide our understanding of true wellness.

Reflection

The journey through ancestral practices reveals a timeless reverence for the scalp as the wellspring of textured hair’s vitality. It is a heritage etched in the very act of care, a legacy that transcends mere aesthetics and touches the profound realms of identity, resilience, and community. The ancient hands that braided, massaged, and adorned the scalp with natural elixirs were not simply styling hair; they were performing acts of profound care, safeguarding a living connection to spirit and lineage.

Our understanding deepens when we recognize that the protection offered by these practices extends beyond the physical. A scalp nourished and tended became a symbol of well-being, a canvas for storytelling, and a connection to collective memory. The wisdom embedded in these traditions, from the choice of natural ingredients to the rhythmic artistry of protective styles, forms a continuous, unbroken line from past to present. It calls upon us to listen to the echoes from the source, to honor the tender thread of care passed down, and to recognize the unbound helix of textured hair as a testament to enduring strength.

To truly appreciate how ancestral practices protected textured scalp is to accept that our hair, in its glorious uniqueness, carries within its very structure the whispers of those who came before us. It is a living, breathing archive, inviting us to delve deeper into its story, to learn from its resilience, and to find our own sense of peace and pride within its radiant legacy. This understanding empowers us to shape futures that honor the profound heritage of our textured strands, ensuring that their soul continues to shine brightly for generations to come.

References

  • Lucas, A. (1930). Ancient Egyptian Materials and Industries. Edward Arnold & Co.
  • McCreesh, N. Gize, A. & Chamberlain, A. (2011). The use of fatty substances as hairdressing products in ancient Egyptian mummies. Journal of Archaeological Science, 38(11), 3291-3295.
  • Nahm, E. (2011). The chemical and physical properties of shea butter and its application in cosmetic products. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 33(3), 263-268.
  • Science. (2009). The benefits of shea butter for skin care. Shea Butter Institute Research Paper.
  • Sultan, S. Telila, H. & Kumsa, L. (2024). Ethnobotany of traditional cosmetics among the Oromo women in Madda Walabu District, Bale Zone, Southeastern Ethiopia. Journal of Ethnobiology and Ethnomedicine, 20(1), 22.
  • Teeter, E. (2000). Ancient Egyptian Rituals. University of Chicago Press.
  • Typology. (2023). The haircare virtues of shea butter. Typology Lab.

Glossary

Black Hair Traditions

Meaning ❉ Black Hair Traditions represent the inherited wisdom and evolving practices concerning the distinct characteristics of textured hair, particularly within Black and mixed-race communities.

Protective Hairstyles

Meaning ❉ Protective Hairstyles represent a deliberate styling approach for textured hair, particularly for Black and mixed-race hair, engineered to safeguard delicate strands from daily manipulation and external elements.

Environmental Exposure

Meaning ❉ Environmental Exposure, within the gentle care framework for textured hair, refers to the continuous interaction between your distinct curl patterns and the external world.

Hair Care

Meaning ❉ Hair Care, when understood through the lens of textured hair, signifies a mindful discipline for preserving the vigor of coily, kinky, and wavy strands.

Moisture Loss

Meaning ❉ Moisture Loss, for textured hair, signifies the gentle yet persistent departure of essential water molecules from the hair shaft, a natural occurrence amplified by the unique helical structure of coils and kinks, which presents a greater surface area for environmental exchange and often impedes the natural downward flow of scalp oils.

Ancestral Scalp Care

Meaning ❉ Ancestral Scalp Care gently describes the collected wisdom and time-tested methods passed through generations within Black and mixed-race communities, focusing intently on the scalp's well-being as the true source of textured hair growth.

Textured Scalp

Meaning ❉ The 'Textured Scalp' refers to the distinct dermal landscape beneath Black and mixed-race hair, where the follicular architecture and inherent skin characteristics fundamentally shape hair growth patterns.

Natural Oils

Meaning ❉ Natural oils refer to the sebum naturally produced by the scalp's sebaceous glands, a gentle, intrinsic gift for the well-being of textured hair.

Natural Ingredients

Meaning ❉ Natural ingredients, within the context of textured hair understanding, are pure elements derived from the earth's bounty ❉ plants, minerals, and select animal sources ❉ processed with a gentle touch to preserve their inherent vitality.

Ancestral Practices

Meaning ❉ Ancestral Practices, within the context of textured hair understanding, describe the enduring wisdom and gentle techniques passed down through generations, forming a foundational knowledge for nurturing Black and mixed-race hair.