Do old oiling customs help textured hair?

Roots

There exists a profound memory in the very coils of textured hair, a whisper carried through generations, telling tales of sun-drenched landscapes and hands that knew the earth’s bounty. For those whose ancestry traces through the continents of Africa and beyond, hair is not merely a biological outgrowth; it represents a living archive, a narrative of survival, artistry, and identity. We speak of old oiling customs, those ancestral practices of saturating hair with various lipids, and ask a timeless question ❉ Do these customs hold lasting benefit for textured hair? To truly answer this, we must reach back, allowing the echoes from the source to guide our understanding.

The journey begins with the hair strand itself, a complex structure, especially so for textured varieties. Unlike straight hair, which allows the scalp’s natural oils, sebum, to travel down the shaft with ease, the intricate twists and turns of coily and curly strands create natural barriers. This structural characteristic means textured hair often experiences dryness as its innate oils struggle to reach the full length of each strand.

This intrinsic dryness makes it particularly vulnerable, prone to breakage if not tended with mindful care. This inherent characteristic underpins the necessity that ancient communities intuitively understood, leading them to seek external sources of lubrication and protection.

Across the African continent, and in the diaspora, hair has always been far more than aesthetic. It signals tribal affiliation, social status, and even marital status (Hair Care Practices from the Diaspora, 2025). The meticulous care of hair, including the regular application of natural substances, was thus intertwined with community life and personal expression.

This is where the old oiling customs find their foundational purpose. They were not arbitrary acts; they were responses to the hair’s unique biology and a profound connection to the cultural and spiritual landscape.

Ancestral oiling customs offer a living archive, a testament to the intuitive wisdom of communities nurturing textured hair.

Hair Anatomy and Ancestral Wisdom

The biology of textured hair, characterized by its elliptical shape and varied curl patterns, naturally contributes to its propensity for dryness. Each bend in the strand means a potential point of weakness, a spot where the cuticle, the hair’s protective outer layer, might lift or chip. Sebum, the scalp’s natural conditioning agent, struggles to coat these irregular surfaces evenly.

This scientific reality, while articulated in modern terms, was understood through generations of observation and practice within African communities. They saw the dry, resilient strands, and they found solutions in nature’s pantry.

For centuries, the hair care routines of many African societies were rooted in natural ingredients. Shea butter, sourced from the nuts of the shea tree, became a cornerstone in West African traditions. Coconut oil, indigenous to tropical regions, was also a staple. These substances were not simply applied; they were often warmed, infused with herbs, and massaged into the scalp and along the hair strands, a deliberate act of nourishment and preservation.

This practice shielded the hair from harsh environmental conditions, whether arid desert winds or humid tropical climates, preserving its vitality and strength. Historical accounts and contemporary ethnographic studies confirm the deep, enduring role these botanical lipids played in daily hair maintenance and ceremonial preparations (Hair Care Practices from the Diaspora, 2025).

Cultural Classifications and Hair Language

Traditional African societies often possessed intricate systems for classifying hair, reflecting not just texture but also styled forms. These classifications went beyond mere appearance, holding deep cultural weight. While modern systems like the Andre Walker hair typing chart (Type 4 for kinky hair, with subtypes 4A, 4B, 4C) arose from a different context, ancestral communities had their own nuanced understandings. They recognized the diverse spectrum of coils and kinks, often associating certain hair qualities with lineage or spiritual connection.

The language used for hair was rich with meaning, describing its feel, its behavior, and its suitability for various ancestral styles. Oiling, in this context, was a common denominator, a fundamental step in preparing the hair for braiding, twisting, or adornment, ensuring its pliability and health.

The act of oiling facilitated the creation of complex styles, many of which served as non-verbal communication. From the intricate cornrows that told stories to the majestic afros that symbolized resistance and pride, hair became a powerful form of expression. Oiling was an initial step in ensuring the hair was conditioned enough to withstand the manipulation required for these elaborate styles, preventing breakage and adding a luminous finish. This intertwining of practical care and cultural significance underscores the integral role of oiling in the heritage of textured hair.

Consider the practice of the Basara Tribe of Chad, who use a mixture often containing chebe powder and raw oil or animal fat on their hair weekly for length retention (No raw oils and butters vs. Traditional African hair care?, 2021). This ritual involves an intricate, time-consuming process, demonstrating a purposeful application far beyond simple conditioning. It represents a living example of how specific, ancient customs are directly linked to visible hair health goals, illustrating the authority of inherited wisdom over time.

Ritual

The rhythm of life in ancestral communities was often punctuated by the rituals of hair care, where oiling transformed from a simple application into a communal and ceremonial act. These customs, practiced often among women, cemented familial bonds and transmitted intergenerational knowledge. The purposeful gestures of warming oils, massaging them into the scalp, and working them down each strand were not just about scalp health; they were deeply rooted in a collective understanding of self, connection, and the preservation of a precious heritage. It was a time for storytelling, for sharing wisdom, and for reinforcing the deep connections that bound families and communities together.

The very structure of textured hair, with its natural bends and coils, means sebum struggles to travel effectively from the scalp to the ends. This makes the external application of oils especially beneficial for conditioning and protection. Scientific inquiry now confirms much of what ancestral intuition understood ❉ oils provide lubrication, reduce friction, and help to seal in moisture, guarding against the environmental stressors that can lead to dryness and breakage.

This protective layer is particularly helpful in managing hygral fatigue, the damage that occurs when hair repeatedly swells with water and then contracts as it dries. Pre-washing oil treatments create a barrier, mitigating this effect and preserving the hair’s integrity (Should You Be Oiling Your Hair And Scalp?, 2024).

Traditional Oils and Their Purpose

Centuries ago, the choice of oil was deeply tied to local flora and fauna. These botanical extracts were chosen for their perceived properties, often based on generations of anecdotal evidence and observed benefits. Today, modern analysis sheds light on the components of these traditional oils, affirming some of their long-held associations with hair health.

• Shea Butter ❉ Extracted from the nuts of the African shea tree, this rich butter has been a staple in West Africa for centuries. It is celebrated for its highly moisturizing properties, its ability to repair the hair cuticle, add shine, and protect against sun damage (Shea Butter, 2023). Its high fatty acid content, particularly oleic acid and linoleic acid, makes it an exceptional emollient, deeply conditioning dry, textured hair and soothing flaky scalps (Shea Butter, 2024). Women in Ghana and Nigeria have long relied on shea butter to keep hair moisturized and shielded from harsh conditions (Haircare Rituals Around the World, 2023).
• Coconut Oil ❉ A ubiquitous ingredient in tropical regions, coconut oil has a long history in Ayurvedic traditions and various indigenous cultures. Its unique molecular structure, high in lauric acid, allows it to penetrate the hair shaft more effectively than many other oils, reducing protein loss and helping to strengthen the cuticle (Coconut Oil, 2019; Coconut Oil for Hair, 2024). This penetration assists in deep hydration and protection, leading to reduced breakage and increased luster (Coconut Oil for Hair Growth, 2019).
• Castor Oil ❉ Known for its thick consistency, castor oil has been used since ancient times, including in ancient Egypt, for both medicinal and beauty purposes (Castor Oil, 2023). Rich in ricinoleic acid, a fatty acid with anti-inflammatory properties, it has been traditionally used to moisturize the scalp, reduce dandruff, and promote hair growth, though scientific research supporting hair growth directly remains limited (Castor Oil for Hair Growth, 2025; Castor Oil for Hair Growth, 2024). It is often mixed with lighter carrier oils to ease application and removal.

These traditional oils, far from being mere superficial coatings, interact with the hair on a fundamental level, addressing its inherent needs. They provided a shield against environmental aggressors and helped maintain elasticity, particularly for hair that naturally tends towards dryness. This practical efficacy solidified their place in ancestral hair care rituals.

Traditional oils are more than cosmetic; they are a legacy of discerning natural remedies to nourish textured hair.

Oiling as a Component of Styling Heritage

The traditional use of oils extended beyond conditioning, serving as an integral part of styling. Before the creation of intricate braids or twists, hair was often oiled to improve its manageability, making it more pliable and less prone to breakage during manipulation. The oil added slip, a characteristic that aids in detangling and reduces friction, which is vital for preserving the fragile structure of textured hair. This practice allowed for the creation of elaborate styles that were not only aesthetically pleasing but also protective, holding their form for extended periods and safeguarding the hair from daily wear.

In many African communities, hair braiding was not a solitary act but a communal activity, a time for mothers, daughters, and friends to gather, strengthening bonds while preserving cultural identity (Hair Care Practices from the Diaspora, 2025). The oiling that preceded these braiding sessions was a shared experience, a moment of connection that deepened the meaning of the style. This ritual of care, inextricably linked to the styling process, reinforced the social and familial fabric of the community. Even today, the act of oiling a loved one’s hair carries this same weight of tenderness and inherited wisdom.

Relay

The quiet persistence of old oiling customs speaks to a resilience woven into the very fabric of textured hair heritage. Despite historical pressures and shifting beauty standards, these practices have not faded into antiquity. Instead, they have been relayed across generations, adapting, evolving, yet retaining their core purpose.

This transmission of knowledge, often from elder to younger, serves as a powerful conduit for cultural continuity, a tangible link to ancestral ways of nurturing and honoring hair. The enduring power of these traditions lies in their capacity to provide not just physical sustenance for the hair, but also a sense of connection to a rich, often turbulent, past.

The experiences of Black and mixed-race individuals, particularly within the African diaspora, underscore the profound meaning of hair care. Historically, hair was a site of forced assimilation during slavery, with enslaved Africans often stripped of their traditional tools and natural hair care methods (Hair Care Practices from the Diaspora, 2025). They were compelled to use available materials like cooking oil or animal fats, which while providing some lubrication, were starkly different from their ancestral remedies (The History of Textured Hair, 2020).

This period highlighted the importance of hair care as an act of resistance and survival, transforming simple acts of cleansing and oiling into statements of identity and enduring spirit. The legacy of these practices today is thus imbued with both the wisdom of the past and the triumph over adversity.

Do Traditional Hair Oiling Methods Support Length Retention?

One primary goal of oiling in traditional hair care was often length retention. For textured hair, which is inherently prone to dryness and breakage, preserving existing length is a constant consideration. Oils, by forming a protective layer on the hair shaft, can reduce the amount of water absorbed during washing, minimizing hygral fatigue, a phenomenon where repeated swelling and contracting of the hair cuticle leads to damage and breakage (Should You Be Oiling Your Hair And Scalp?, 2024). This protective mechanism directly supports the goal of retaining length by keeping the hair strong and less susceptible to environmental and mechanical stressors.

Audrey Davis-Sivasothy, in her foundational text, The Science of Black Hair ❉ A Comprehensive Guide to Textured Hair Care, details how understanding the unique properties of textured hair can inform effective care strategies. She emphasizes the importance of moisture retention and reducing breakage, points where traditional oiling aligns with scientific principles (Davis-Sivasothy, 2011). While certain oils, like coconut oil, can penetrate the hair shaft to reduce protein loss, others primarily work as sealants, preventing moisture from escaping (Coconut Oil, 2019; Curly Hair Oiling, 2023). This dual action—some oils hydrating, others sealing—provides a comprehensive approach to hair health, supporting the integrity of the hair fiber, which in turn contributes to length retention.

Are Ancestral Oils Bioavailable for Hair Health?

The question of bioavailability, or how well a substance can be absorbed and utilized by the hair and scalp, is pertinent. While research on every traditional oil is ongoing, the evidence for some commonly used ancestral oils is quite compelling. Coconut oil, for instance, has a molecular structure, particularly its high concentration of lauric acid, that allows it to penetrate the hair shaft effectively.

This deep penetration aids in moisture retention and reduces protein loss, a key benefit for textured hair (Coconut Oil for Hair, 2024; Coconut Oil for Hair, 2025). This capacity to absorb beyond the surface layer makes it a valuable asset in hair care, aligning with ancestral wisdom that recognized its potent effects.

Shea butter, while not penetrating the hair shaft in the same manner as coconut oil, forms a protective, emollient layer that seals in moisture and provides a conditioning effect. Its fatty acid profile contributes to its soothing properties for the scalp and its ability to improve the hair’s appearance and feel (Shea Butter, 2023). Castor oil, though thick and often used with carrier oils, also possesses qualities that soothe the scalp and provide a protective coating (Castor Oil for Hair Growth, 2025).

The effectiveness of old oiling customs for textured hair is not simply anecdotal; it is increasingly affirmed by scientific understanding. These practices, honed over centuries, represent a deep connection to the earth’s offerings and an intuitive understanding of hair’s needs. The ritual of oiling, passed down through generations, continues to serve as a bridge between the past and present, offering tangible benefits for the health and spirit of textured hair.

The generational relay of oiling customs offers a tangible link to heritage, proving effective in maintaining hair health and retaining length.

The communal aspect of hair care, particularly oiling and braiding, was a significant social event in many traditional African cultures. This gathering for grooming created a space for women to socialize, share stories, and strengthen family bonds (Kinky hair, 2021). The wisdom passed down during these sessions was not just about technique; it was about the intrinsic value of hair as a part of identity and the resilience of a people. For example, during the transatlantic slave trade, some West African women, particularly rice farmers, braided rice seeds into their hair as a means of survival for themselves and to preserve the culture of their homeland (The history of Black Hair, 2022).

This powerful historical example illuminates how hair practices, including the preparation with oils, became acts of resistance, memory, and continuity. It underscores the profound link between hair care and the larger narrative of Black existence.

The Sacredness of Oils in Hair Tradition

Beyond the biophysical advantages, many traditional societies viewed oils with a sense of sacredness, seeing them as direct conduits from the earth’s abundance. The preparation of these oils often involved specific rituals, sometimes infused with herbs, or left to sun-steep, believed to draw forth greater potency. This reverence positioned oiling not just as a beauty treatment but as an act of spiritual connection, a way to honor the hair as a crowning glory and a receiver of ancestral blessings. This perspective elevates the simple act of oiling to a profound interaction, nurturing not just the hair’s physical state but also the spirit it embodies.

The deep-seated historical and cultural significance of hair for people of African descent means that traditions like oiling carry a weight far beyond cosmetic application. They represent continuity, resilience, and a profound self-acceptance that counters centuries of attempts to diminish textured hair. The conversation about oiling textured hair, therefore, is not merely a scientific inquiry; it is a conversation about heritage, identity, and the enduring power of ancestral wisdom.

Reflection

To ask if old oiling customs benefit textured hair is to pose a question that delves into the very soul of a strand, tracing its lineage through time and across continents. The answer, as we have seen, resonates with a resounding affirmation, echoing from ancient traditions and finding validation in contemporary understanding. These customs, far from being relics of a bygone era, represent a living legacy of intuitive wisdom, a testament to communities who understood the unique needs of their hair with a deep, abiding respect.

The journey from the elemental biology of the hair strand to the intricate rituals of care, and then to its role in voicing identity, reveals a seamless continuum. Oiling, in its purest form, was a direct response to the hair’s natural propensity for dryness, a way to lubricate, seal, and protect coils and kinks. Yet, its true power transcended the physical.

It became a tender thread, weaving together families through communal acts of grooming, a silent language shared between generations. This continuous relay of knowledge and practice, often under the most challenging historical circumstances, solidified hair care as an act of resilience and cultural preservation.

The ancestral hands that pressed shea butter or warmed coconut oil were not merely applying a substance; they were imbuing each strand with a story, a connection, a heritage. The oils, once botanical resources, became conduits for ancestral wisdom, their efficacy confirmed by enduring health and vibrancy in the hair. This is the heart of Roothea’s ethos ❉ recognizing that the care of textured hair is a profound meditation, a living archive of a heritage that continues to shape futures. The practices passed down from our forebears offer tangible benefits, yes, but also a spiritual nourishment, reminding us that every strand holds a universe of history, beauty, and unwavering spirit.