Can textured hair be a symbol of political resistance in Brazil?

Roots

In the vibrant tapestry of Brazil, where the echoes of ancestral drumbeats still resonate through the humid air, a profound narrative unfolds upon the crown of Black and mixed-race individuals. Their textured hair, a marvel of biological design, stands as more than mere adornment; it is a living archive, a symbol of political resistance, deeply rooted in a heritage that spans continents and centuries. For too long, Eurocentric beauty standards have sought to erase this inherent beauty, labeling it as “bad hair” or cabelo ruim, a classification used to marginalize and categorize individuals of African descent.

Yet, the resilience of the human spirit, interwoven with the very strands of their being, defies such narrow definitions. To truly understand how textured hair embodies resistance in Brazil, one must delve into its origins, its anatomy, and the very language used to describe it, all while honoring the ancestral wisdom that has always recognized its intrinsic worth.

What Defines Textured Hair Biologically and Culturally?

The intricate structure of textured hair, often characterized by its unique curl patterns, varying porosity, and distinct growth habits, is a testament to genetic diversity. Unlike straight hair, which emerges from a round follicle, coily and curly strands spring from elliptical follicles, dictating their helical path. This anatomical difference results in hair that, while robust, can be more prone to dryness due to the winding path of natural oils from the scalp. Yet, this very structure allows for remarkable versatility in styling and protection, a quality recognized and utilized by ancestral communities for millennia.

The language we use to describe these textures often carries historical weight, reflecting societal biases. Terms like “kinky” or “frizzy” have, in the past, been imbued with derogatory connotations, particularly in Brazil, where hair texture has served as a primary marker of racial background and social status (Caldwell, 2007, p. 20). This historical context makes the contemporary reclamation of natural hair all the more powerful, transforming once-stigmatized terms into affirmations of identity.

How Did Ancestral Practices Shape Textured Hair Understanding?

Before the brutal interruption of the transatlantic slave trade, hair care in African societies was a sophisticated art, deeply intertwined with social, spiritual, and communal life. Hairstyles communicated a person’s tribe, social status, age, and even marital status. The act of caring for hair was often a communal ritual, a moment for bonding and the transmission of cultural knowledge. These practices, brought to Brazil by enslaved Africans, continued as acts of quiet defiance and cultural preservation.

Even under the harsh realities of enslavement, when hair was often shaved as a means of dehumanization and to strip away cultural references, the memory of these ancestral practices persisted. The ingenuity of enslaved women, who braided seeds into their hair for survival or crafted intricate maps within their cornrows to guide escapes to quilombos, speaks volumes about hair’s role as a silent, powerful tool of resistance. This historical thread continues to inform the deep respect for textured hair as a symbol of survival and cultural continuity in Brazil.

Textured hair in Brazil is a profound symbol of resistance, embodying a heritage that defies historical attempts at erasure and reclaims its inherent beauty.

The journey of understanding textured hair begins with acknowledging its inherent biological distinctiveness and the rich cultural heritage that has always celebrated its varied forms. From the Yorubas, Bantus, and Jejes, who brought their diverse hair traditions to Brazil, each strand carries the weight of history and the promise of a self-determined future. The movement towards natural hair in Brazil today is not a passing trend; it is a manifestation of a deeper reflection on racial discourse, a conscious effort to challenge Eurocentric aesthetic standards, and a powerful affirmation of Black and mixed-race identity. (Gomes, 2018)

Ritual

Stepping into the realm of ritual, one begins to truly grasp the profound interplay between personal expression and collective heritage, particularly as it relates to textured hair in Brazil. For those whose ancestry traces back to the African continent, the care and styling of hair transcend mere aesthetics; they become living practices, imbued with the wisdom of generations. This section delves into the evolution of these practices, exploring how traditional techniques and modern adaptations intertwine, shaping the very experience of textured hair as a symbol of resistance.

How Did Traditional Styling Techniques Reflect Ancestral Wisdom?

The historical landscape of textured hair styling in Brazil is rich with techniques passed down through oral tradition, a testament to the ingenuity and resilience of Afro-Brazilian communities. These methods, often rooted in African practices, served not only to adorn but also to protect and communicate. Braiding, for instance, was a cornerstone of ancestral hair care, with specific patterns signifying social standing, tribal affiliation, or even coded messages for escape during slavery. The Nagô braids, in particular, stand as a powerful example of this heritage, serving as cultural, affective, and identity channels for Black culture.

The documentary “Enraizadas” (rooted) highlights how these braids were not simply aesthetic choices but strategies for survival, sometimes even concealing seeds for planting in quilombos or mapping escape routes (Vieira, 2020). This historical use of hair as a means of communication and survival underscores its enduring role in political resistance.

The protective styling tradition, so central to textured hair care today, finds its roots in these ancestral practices. Styles like cornrows, twists, and various forms of braiding minimized manipulation, preserved moisture, and shielded strands from environmental damage. These were not just practical solutions; they were acts of self-preservation and cultural continuity in the face of oppression. The communal act of hair braiding, often a gathering of women, served as a space for sharing stories, nurturing community bonds, and transmitting ancestral knowledge, creating a living archive of heritage.

What is the Role of Natural Styling in Contemporary Resistance?

The resurgence of natural hair in Brazil, particularly since the 1970s and gaining significant momentum in recent decades, represents a contemporary act of political resistance. In a society where Eurocentric beauty standards have historically marginalized African features, choosing to wear one’s hair in its natural state is a bold statement of self-acceptance and defiance. This movement, often referred to as “Black Power” in Brazil, is a direct challenge to the notion that “straight is beautiful” (Rabouin, 2014). It signifies a rejection of chemical straightening treatments, which for generations have been used to conform to dominant aesthetic norms, often at the expense of hair health and personal identity (Caldwell, 2007, p.

21; Loo, 2011). Organizations like Meninas Black Power (Black Power Girls) actively promote the use of natural hair as a symbol of Black pride and a tool to combat racism, empowering young girls to embrace their natural textures (Aquino, 2014).

Hair styling in Brazil, from ancestral braids to modern natural expressions, serves as a powerful testament to enduring cultural identity and resistance.

The embrace of natural textures also reflects a broader movement of Black consciousness and self-affirmation. Social media platforms have become vital spaces for Afro-Brazilian women to share advice, celebrate their natural hair journeys, and build communities of support. Online searches for “Afro hair” have tripled in recent years, and hashtags like #CabeloCrespo now feature thousands of images of natural styles, a stark contrast to their previous use for straightening makeovers (The Root, 2018). This shift is not merely aesthetic; it is a political act that reclaims agency over one’s body and identity, aligning with the broader struggle for racial equality in Brazil.

Relay

The journey of textured hair as a symbol of political resistance in Brazil extends beyond personal styling choices; it reaches into the deepest currents of cultural narrative, ancestral knowledge, and the ongoing struggle for recognition. This section invites a profound examination of how textured hair continues to shape cultural narratives and future hair traditions, unearthing the intricate complexities where science, culture, and heritage converge. It is here, in this deeper exploration, that the enduring power of a strand truly becomes apparent.

What is the Connection Between Hair Texture and Racial Classification in Brazil?

Brazil’s history of racial classification is notoriously complex, often characterized by a fluid, yet deeply stratified, system where physical appearance plays a central role. Hair texture, in particular, has long been a primary determinant in assigning individuals to racial categories, often with significant social implications. The concept of “good” versus “bad” hair, with “good” hair being straight and “bad” hair being curly or kinky, has been a pervasive mechanism for racial assignment and prejudice (Caldwell, 2007, p. 20).

This “mark prejudice,” as sociologist Oracy Nogueira described it, bases racial discrimination on physical attributes, with textured hair historically signaling African ancestry and, consequently, lower social standing (Nogueira, 2018). This societal pressure to conform to Eurocentric beauty ideals has led many Afro-Brazilians to chemically straighten their hair, a practice deeply ingrained in the pursuit of social acceptance and the avoidance of discrimination (Loo, 2011). The phenomenon of “pelocracia,” where hair texture dictates one’s perceived race, highlights the insidious nature of this hierarchy (University of Miami, 2023).

Yet, the very act of rejecting these imposed standards and embracing natural hair represents a powerful counter-narrative. It is a direct challenge to the historical project of “whitening” Brazilian society, a policy that sought to dilute African traits through miscegenation and the promotion of European immigration (Gomes, 2018). The rise of the natural hair movement is a decolonial political act, signaling a collective refusal to erase African heritage and a reclaiming of self-definition (Furtado, 2025).

How Do Afro-Brazilian Religions Inform Hair’s Symbolic Power?

The spiritual landscape of Brazil offers another profound dimension to textured hair’s symbolic power, particularly within Afro-Brazilian religions such as Candomblé. Rooted in West African traditions, Candomblé places immense spiritual significance on the head, or Ori, which is considered the seat of one’s destiny and the connection to the divine Orixás (Léo Neto et al. 2009; Sansi, 2009). Hair, as an extension of the Ori, becomes a sacred element, often adorned and cared for in specific rituals that honor ancestors and deities.

In Candomblé, hairstyles, braids, and particular adornments are integral to rituals, marking devotion and serving as a visual language of spirituality and community belonging (Salvador de Bahia, 2021). The goddess Iemanjá, for example, often depicted with long, flowing hair, embodies the maternal essence of the sea and purity, further underscoring the sacred connection between hair and the divine (Brazil Selection, 2024).

The historical suppression of these African-rooted religions in Brazil, coupled with the devaluation of Black physical features, makes the preservation and public display of Candomblé-inspired hairstyles an act of profound cultural and political resistance. It is a visible assertion of spiritual heritage and a rejection of the colonial gaze that sought to demonize and diminish African spiritual practices. This deep spiritual connection elevates textured hair beyond mere aesthetics, transforming it into a conduit for ancestral wisdom and a defiant declaration of cultural identity.

One compelling historical example that powerfully illuminates textured hair’s connection to political resistance in Brazil, Black and mixed-race experiences, and ancestral practices is the strategic use of braids during the period of slavery. Enslaved African women in Brazil, much like their counterparts across the Americas, utilized intricate braiding patterns not only for aesthetic purposes but as covert communication systems. A well-documented instance involves the concealment of rice seeds within braided hairstyles as a means of preserving sustenance and agricultural knowledge from their homelands, ensuring survival in the new, hostile environment (Carney, 2004; Rose, 2020). Beyond sustenance, these braids served as intricate maps, with specific patterns indicating escape routes to quilombos, the communities established by runaway enslaved people.

For example, coiled braids might point towards a mountain, while sinuous, snake-like braids could indicate a water source. Meeting points were also embedded within the convergence of multiple braid rows (Noireônaturel, 2024). This ingenious practice, rooted in ancestral knowledge of hair artistry and its communicative power, directly links textured hair heritage to acts of survival, organized resistance, and the preservation of cultural memory in the face of brutal dehumanization. The hair, therefore, became a living testament to defiance, a silent yet potent weapon in the struggle for freedom.

The ongoing struggle for racial equality in Brazil, where the average salary for a white citizen remains significantly higher than for a Black citizen, highlights the persistent impact of racial hierarchy (The Root, 2018). In this context, the embrace of natural hair is not just a personal choice; it is a collective statement, a visual manifestation of the Black consciousness movement. It is a powerful affirmation that Black is beautiful, challenging centuries of internalized prejudice and external discrimination.

The market for natural hair products has seen substantial growth, and online communities dedicated to textured hair continue to expand, providing spaces for support, education, and collective empowerment (The Root, 2018; ResearchGate, 2024). This ongoing transformation speaks to the enduring power of heritage as a source of strength and a catalyst for social change.

• Ori ❉ The head, considered the seat of destiny and consciousness in Candomblé, making hair a sacred extension. (Léo Neto et al. 2009; Sansi, 2009)
• Nagô Braids ❉ Traditional braids used during slavery as a means of communication, hiding seeds, and mapping escape routes to quilombos. (Vieira, 2020; Rose, 2020)
• Cabelo Ruim ❉ “Bad hair,” a derogatory term historically used in Brazil to describe textured hair, reflecting pervasive Eurocentric beauty standards. (Caldwell, 2007)

Textured hair in Brazil is a decolonial political act, challenging historical racial classifications and affirming spiritual heritage.

Reflection

As the narrative of textured hair in Brazil unfolds, it becomes clear that each coil and curl carries not only biological blueprint but also the indelible imprint of generations. The journey from elemental biology to profound political symbol is a testament to the enduring human spirit and the deep wisdom held within ancestral practices. Roothea’s “Soul of a Strand” ethos invites us to perceive textured hair not merely as a physical attribute, but as a living, breathing archive—a repository of history, resilience, and identity. The resistance embodied by textured hair in Brazil is a continuous dialogue between past and present, a vibrant affirmation of heritage that refuses to be silenced.

It is a legacy woven into the very fabric of being, a constant reminder that true beauty lies in authenticity, and true power in self-acceptance. The ongoing reclamation of natural hair stands as a beacon, illuminating the path toward a future where every strand is celebrated, every story honored, and every heritage revered.

References

• Aquino, E. (2014, June 30). Meninas Black Power ❉ Fighting Racism with Natural Hair. New Pittsburgh Courier.
• Brazil Selection. (2024, September 8). Lemanja.
• Caldwell, K. L. (2007). “Look at Her Hair” ❉ The Body Politics of Black Womanhood in Brazil. Meridians ❉ Feminism, Race, Transnationalism, 7(2), 1-32.
• Carney, J. A. (2004). Black Rice ❉ The African Origins of Rice Cultivation in the Americas. Harvard University Press.
• Furtado, W. (2025, March 26). What’s Behind Decolonial Movements in Brazil?. C& América Latina.
• Gomes, A. E. V. (2018, January 27). Natural black hair and the politics of resistance. Black Women of Brazil – Black Brazil Today.
• Léo Neto, N. A. Alves, R. R. N. & Brooks, S. E. (2009). “It All Begins With the Head” ❉ Initiation Rituals and the Symbolic Conceptions of Animals in Candomblé. Human Ecology, 37(6), 723-733.
• Loo, J. V. (2011). The color of beauty ❉ Race and it’s representation in contemporary Brazil. Utrecht University Student Theses Repository.
• Nogueira, O. (2018). Preconceito de Marca ❉ As Relações Raciais em São Paulo. Editora da Universidade de São Paulo.
• Noireônaturel. (2024). How frizzy hair saved the lives of slaves.
• Rabouin, D. (2014, June 30). Black Power in Brazil means natural hair. New Pittsburgh Courier.
• ResearchGate. (2024, December 9). Afro Love ❉ counter-literacies in Brazilian natural hair communities.
• Rose, S. (2020, April 5). How Enslaved Africans Braided Rice Seeds Into Their Hair & Changed the World. Travel Noire.
• Salvador de Bahia. (2021). The origin of the Afro hairstyle in Salvador de Bahia .
• Sansi, R. (2009). Fetishes and Monuments ❉ Afro-Brazilian Art and Culture in the 20th Century. Berghahn Books.
• The Root. (2018, July 23). Black Brazilians are Ditching Hair Straighteners and White Standards of Beauty.
• University of Miami. (2023). Unraveling the Strands ❉ Exploring the Roots of Race, Identity and Hair in Brazil’s Eurocentric Knot. Scholarship@Miami.
• Vieira, K. (2020, June 28). Roots of the Diaspora ❉ Documentary ‘Enraizadas’ | Story of Nagô Braids. Black Brazil Today.