Roots
Across generations, strands of hair have not merely been a biological covering; they have been living archives, whispering stories of lineage, resilience, and identity. For those whose ancestry traces through the intricate coils and rich textures of the African diaspora, hair carries a weight of history, a profound connection to collective memory. To consider if societal biases against textured hair can be unlearned, we must first descend into the very elemental structure of this hair, tracing its ancestral echoes and understanding how perceptions became entangled with prejudice.
The Helix Unveiled
The journey begins at the microscopic level, with the very biology of textured hair. Unlike its straighter counterparts, textured hair possesses an elliptical follicle shape, causing the hair shaft to grow in a spring-like, coiling pattern. This unique morphology dictates its behavior: its tendency to clump, its need for specific moisture, and its inherent strength when cared for with understanding. From a scientific vantage, this structure is a marvel of biological design, adapted over millennia to diverse climates and environments.
Yet, this natural design became a target for colonial gazes, deemed “unruly” or “unprofessional” as European beauty standards became dominant. This biological truth became a lens through which societal judgments were formed, ignoring the inherent properties of the hair itself.
Ancestral Anatomies of Adornment
Long before any external decree attempted to define it, textured hair held profound cultural significance in African societies. Ancient Kemetic wall carvings, Benin bronzes, and other archaeological remnants frequently depict elaborate hairstyles, each telling a story. These styles were not random; they were a visual language, communicating everything from tribal affiliation and marital status to social hierarchy and spiritual belief.
The hair, often intricately braided, twisted, or adorned, was a direct extension of identity, a sacred part of the body that connected individuals to their community and their ancestors. Understanding the origins of hair as a cultural marker reveals the depth of what was lost, or attempted to be suppressed, by subsequent biases.
- Adornment ❉ In many West African cultures, hair was often adorned with cowrie shells, beads, or precious metals, signifying wealth or status.
- Status ❉ Specific hairstyles, like the towering coiffures of the Mangbetu women, conveyed social standing and wisdom.
- Belief ❉ Certain patterns, such as cornrows mimicking agricultural fields, represented fertility and community.
The Nomenclature of Othering
The language we use shapes perception. Historically, terms used to describe textured hair have often been laden with derogation, reflecting a societal inclination to view it as deviant from a Eurocentric norm. Words like “kinky” or “nappy,” which simply describe texture, became pejorative, carrying a burden of negativity.
This linguistic devaluation played a central role in solidifying biases, painting a picture of hair that needed to be “tamed” or “corrected” to fit an imposed ideal. It is a slow, insidious process, this linguistic erosion of inherent beauty.
Societal biases against textured hair began as a colonial construct, systematically devaluing ancestral forms of beauty and identity.
The modern classification systems for textured hair, while aiming for neutrality, sometimes inadvertently echo past attempts to categorize and control. While useful for product development, they must be approached with an awareness of the long history of categorization tied to notions of racial hierarchy. For generations, the goal was not to understand the hair as it naturally grew, but to subjugate it, to force it into a mold that was never its own. This foundational distortion of what hair is, at its most elemental, must be confronted to truly unlearn the biases that persist.
Ritual
The tender tending of textured hair has always been a ritual, a practice passed down through living traditions that speak of community, care, and resilience. This section explores how the expression of textured hair, through styling techniques and tools, became intertwined with societal biases, and how these biases are being challenged through the celebration of heritage practices. The very act of styling textured hair holds within it layers of meaning, from ancestral adornment to modern acts of self-definition.
Styling as a Site of Struggle and Strength
For centuries, Black and mixed-race communities have cultivated an intricate understanding of textured hair, developing a vast repertoire of styling techniques that protect and celebrate its unique properties. These techniques, often referred to as “protective styles,” such as braids, twists, and locs, were not merely aesthetic choices; they were strategies for maintenance, for managing growth, and for expressing identity within diverse climates and social landscapes. Yet, these very practices became targets of societal scrutiny and discrimination.
Consider the historical example of the Tignon Laws in Louisiana. In 1786, Spanish Governor Esteban Rodríguez Miró issued a decree known as the “bando de buen gobierno,” which mandated that free Black women, particularly Creole, Mulatta, and Quarteron women, cover their hair with a tignon or headscarf. This was intended to suppress their elaborate hairstyles, which were seen by some white women as attracting white men and thus threatening the social order. The law aimed to visibly mark these women as belonging to a lower social class, closer to enslaved individuals (Gould, cited in Fox, 2022).
Yet, in an astonishing act of defiance and cultural genius, these women transformed the forced covering into a new statement of beauty and distinction, adorning their tignons with luxurious fabrics, jewels, and intricate knots, making the headpiece a fashionable accessory (Essence, 2020; Empower ONYX, 2020). This historical moment powerfully illuminates how deeply embedded societal biases were, yet how resilient and creative heritage proved to be in the face of oppression.
Echoes of Ancestral Practices in Modern Care
The tools and techniques used in textured hair care today often mirror, consciously or unconsciously, practices from generations past. From wide-tooth combs carved from wood to the practice of oiling the scalp, there are clear echoes of ancestral wisdom. The shift towards natural styling and defining techniques, moving away from chemical straighteners, represents a reclamation of these heritage practices.
The table below offers a glimpse into how contemporary hair tools and techniques find their roots in traditional care methods, demonstrating a continuous thread of knowledge.
The Influence of Eurocentric Ideals on Styling Choices
Despite the richness of textured hair heritage, the pervasive influence of Eurocentric beauty standards led many individuals of African descent to alter their hair to conform. This often involved harsh chemical relaxers or excessive heat styling, practices that frequently compromised hair health. The motivation was often social acceptance or professional advancement. Research indicates that employers often view Afrocentric hairstyles as less professional than Eurocentric hair, a sentiment that has compelled many Black women to straighten their hair for work (Dawson & Karl, 2018; Opie & Phillips, 2015).
This phenomenon, where natural Black hair is linked with negative stereotypes, is referred to as hair discrimination (Dawson et al. 2019).
The historical resistance to the Tignon Laws exemplifies an ancestral spirit of resilience and creativity in confronting imposed beauty standards.
One in five Black women feel social pressure to straighten their hair for work, a figure twice as high as that for white women (Harris). This pressure speaks to the deep-seated nature of bias, where one’s natural state is deemed unacceptable in professional spaces.
Unlearning biases against textured hair necessitates a dismantling of these ingrained professional and social norms. It requires recognizing that styles born of heritage, such as locs, braids, and afros, are not merely personal choices, but expressions of culture, history, and a legacy of resilience. The act of wearing one’s hair in its natural state, or in protective styles, becomes a powerful affirmation of identity and a quiet rebellion against centuries of imposed aesthetic ideals.
Relay
The journey towards unlearning societal biases against textured hair is not a sprint, but a sustained relay race, passing the baton of understanding from one generation to the next. It demands a holistic approach, where scientific insight intertwines with ancestral wisdom, and where personal care becomes a collective act of reclamation. This section explores how contemporary efforts in holistic care, problem-solving, and legislative action contribute to dismantling prejudice, deeply rooted in the concept of heritage.
Holistic Wellness and Ancestral Wisdom
The care of textured hair extends beyond mere aesthetics; it is deeply connected to overall well-being. For many, ancestral practices viewed hair, skin, and spirit as interconnected. This holistic perspective, often sidelined by commercialized beauty industries, is experiencing a resurgence. Traditional practices, such as deep conditioning with natural ingredients or protective nighttime routines, are now being scientifically validated for their efficacy.
How Do Ancient Practices Inform Modern Hair Regimens?
Ancestral hair care was intrinsically linked to what was available from the earth. Plants, seeds, and oils were not merely ingredients; they were gifts from nature, imbued with specific properties understood through generations of observation and practice. The concept of “listening” to one’s hair and body, rather than forcing it into a predetermined mold, was central.
Modern regimens often incorporate deep conditioning treatments, clarifying washes, and specific moisturizing methods that mirror historical approaches. The table below illustrates this continuum.
The nighttime sanctuary, for example, is not a new concept. The tradition of covering hair with bonnets or scarves, while often seen as a contemporary practice, has its roots in protecting hair from environmental damage, retaining moisture, and preserving styles, a continuous wisdom passed through time. This deliberate act of preservation underscores a deep respect for the hair’s integrity, a value that contradicts the societal narrative of textured hair as something to be controlled or hidden.
Dismantling Bias: Legislative and Social Progress
While individual and communal practices are essential, systemic biases require systemic solutions. The concept of unlearning societal biases against textured hair has gained significant momentum through legislative action, particularly with the advent of the CROWN Act (Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair). This legislation, which has been adopted in various forms across the United States, prohibits discrimination based on hair texture or protective hairstyles historically associated with race. Its existence acknowledges the pervasive nature of hair discrimination in schools and workplaces.
Addressing bias against textured hair requires both individual acts of affirmation and systemic changes in law and perception.
The “Good Hair” Study, conducted by the Perception Institute in 2016, provided critical data, finding that a majority of participants, across racial lines, exhibited implicit bias against textured hair (Johnson et al. 2017, p. 13). This research underscored the urgent need for intervention, revealing that deeply ingrained biases affect perceptions of professionalism, beauty, and competence related to natural hairstyles.
Black women, for instance, are 1.5 times more likely than white women to be sent home from the workplace because of their hair (JOY Collective, 2019, cited in Mbilishaka & Apugo, 2020). These statistics reveal the real-world impact of biases, showing that the unlearning process must happen at both the individual and institutional levels.
Moreover, the struggle against hair bias is a fight against the internalization of Eurocentric beauty standards that devalue tightly coiled hair as “unacceptable” or “unkempt” (Collins, 2002; Montle, 2020, cited in J. Psychology & Behavioral Science). This often leads to increased anxiety among Black women regarding their hair (Harris). The work of unlearning biases involves not only external policy changes but also an internal re-education, fostering self-acceptance and pride in one’s natural hair.
The ongoing advocacy for the CROWN Act, alongside educational initiatives, creates spaces for dialogue and re-evaluation of preconceived notions. It signals a collective commitment to acknowledging hair as a fundamental aspect of racial and cultural identity, deserving of respect and protection. This movement towards legal and social recognition is a critical step in the long relay towards genuine understanding and acceptance.
Reflection
To truly unlearn societal biases against textured hair is to undertake a profound act of remembrance. It is to recall that each curl, coil, and kink holds stories not of defiance, but of dignity; not of aberration, but of ancestral beauty. This journey moves us beyond mere tolerance, toward a deeper reverence for a heritage that has persisted, often in the face of immense pressure. It asks us to look closely at the language we use, the images we consume, and the standards we uphold, questioning their genesis and their enduring impact.
The echoes from the source remind us of hair’s biological truth and its ancient cultural significance. The tender thread of ritual reveals the enduring practices of care and the creativity of communities who found ways to celebrate their identity despite systemic efforts to diminish it. The relay, in its contemporary forms of activism and education, continues the urgent work of dismantling prejudice, strand by strand, heart by heart. For Roothea, this ongoing work is a sacred trust, a commitment to preserving the living archive that textured hair represents.
The biases may have deep roots, but the inherent beauty and historical strength of textured hair offer a foundation for unlearning that is even deeper. It is a promise that the unbound helix will continue to voice identity, shaping futures that honor every precious strand.
References
- Collins, P. H. (2002). Black Feminist Thought: Knowledge, Consciousness, and the Politics of Empowerment. Routledge.
- Dawson, C. D. & Karl, K. A. (2018). The Influence of Eurocentric Preferences on the Hairstyle Choices of Black Female Executives. Journal of Management and Marketing Research.
- Dawson, C. D. Karl, K. A. & Sutton, L. (2019). Hair Discrimination in the Workplace: A Critical Human Resource Development Perspective. Human Resource Development Review.
- Essence. (2020, October 24). The Tignon Laws Set The Precedent For The Appropriation and Misconception Around Black Hair. Essence.
- Fox, N. (2022, October 25). Don’t Touch My Hair!: A guide to investigating race-based hair discrimination.
- Harris, B. J. A Point of View: I AM My Hair. The Inclusion Solution.
- Johnson, S. K. et al. (2017). The “Good Hair” Study: Explicit and Implicit Attitudes Toward Black Women’s Hair. Perception Institute.
- Mbilishaka, H. & Apugo, M. (2020). Natural Hair Bias Against Black Minorities: A Critical Investigation of Intersecting Identities. Innovatief in Werk.
- Montle, N. (2020). How Media Influence About Hair Texture Impacts Internalized Racial Oppression and Why The Crown Act Simultaneously Promotes. Journal of Psychology & Behavioral Science.
- Opie, T. & Phillips, K. (2015). The Hair of the Dog: Race, Hair, and the Workplace. In The Palgrave Handbook of Race and the Economy. Palgrave Macmillan.
- Perception Institute. (2016). The “Good Hair” Study: Explicit and Implicit Attitudes Toward Black Women’s Hair.
- Woods, B. (2021, September 16). Nine Years of Detangled Afro Hair. Wesleyan College.