Can media influence lead to internalizing beauty standards that dismiss textured hair?

Roots

Across generations, whispers of beauty have shaped perceptions, often echoing through media forms. For those with hair that coils, springs, and defies simple lines, the story is often one of an outward gaze meeting an inner world, sometimes with jarring effect. This story, however, reaches back far beyond the flickering screens of today, into the very ancient pulse of textured hair heritage .

It is a lineage etched in every curve and twist of a strand, a testament to resilience and profound meaning, deeply rooted in the soil of ancestral lands. To truly grasp how external influences can diminish the spirit of natural hair, we must first return to the very source, understanding the elemental biology and the centuries of wisdom that recognized hair not merely as adornment, but as a living archive.

The physical reality of textured hair, from the tightest coils to the most expansive waves, finds its distinct characteristics in the follicular architecture and the unique growth patterns. Unlike hair types with a circular cross-section, textured hair typically emerges from an elliptical or even flat follicle. This shape causes the keratinocytes, the cells that form the hair shaft, to arrange themselves in a way that encourages coiling. The more pronounced the ellipse, the tighter the curl.

This inherent structure, deeply woven into the genetic code, grants textured hair its remarkable volume and its characteristic ability to shrink, often appearing shorter than its true length. The very nature of this growth pattern also presents unique challenges; the bends and turns along the hair shaft make it more susceptible to dryness and mechanical damage, as the natural oils produced by the scalp find it more difficult to travel down the spiraling strand.

Textured hair, with its unique follicular structure, carries a profound genetic and cultural legacy.

How Does Ancestral Science Interpret Hair Physiology?

Long before modern microscopy, ancient African societies possessed an intricate understanding of hair’s physical and spiritual dimensions. They observed, through generations of direct interaction and meticulous care, the varied responses of different hair textures to environment, diet, and touch. Hair was not viewed in isolation; it was a continuum of the body, a conduit for spiritual energy, and a visual marker of identity. In many pre-colonial communities, the crown of the head was considered the closest point to the divine, making hair a sacred element that connected individuals to their ancestors and the spiritual world.

For instance, among the Yoruba people of Nigeria, hair was regarded as the most elevated part of the body, and elaborate braided styles were believed to send messages to the gods. This reverence translated into sophisticated care practices that acknowledged the hair’s fragility and its need for careful attention.

Traditional classification systems, unlike modern numerical scales, often centered on the hair’s capacity for styling, its responsiveness to natural elements, and its symbolic messages. Rather than categorizing by curl pattern numbers, the distinctions were drawn from visual cues and cultural meanings. A particular braid pattern, for example, could signify a woman’s marital status, her age, or her social standing within the community. These were not rigid categorizations designed for commerce, but living descriptors that reflected the hair’s role in communal life.

• Yoruba Irun Kiko ❉ A threading style used in Nigeria, dating back to the 15th century, where hair was carefully wrapped with thread, demonstrating an early understanding of protective manipulation and elongation.
• Himba Ochre Styles ❉ The Himba tribe in Namibia wore dreadlocked styles coated with a red ochre paste, symbolizing connection to the earth and ancestors, and offering protection from the elements.
• Maasai Warrior Braids ❉ Intricate braided hair dyed with red clay by Maasai warriors in Kenya, symbolizing courage and social status, demonstrating hair as a visual language of societal roles.

What Messages Did Ancient Hair Convey?

In diverse African civilizations, hair was a vibrant form of communication, a visual lexicon understood by all. Before arbitrary lines delineated nations, the continent was a mosaic of kingdoms and clans, each with unique customs. Within these societal structures, hair became a profound expression of identity, status, and belonging. Hairstyles could denote a person’s geographic origin, marital status, age, or even their specific religious or ethnic affiliation.

For example, the Fulani people of West Africa are recognized for their distinctive thin, woven braids adorned with cowrie shells and beads, which often carried meanings related to heritage and marital status. This rich system of visual cues allowed communities to communicate complex information without spoken words. The very act of styling hair was often a communal activity, particularly among women, serving as a time for sharing stories, wisdom, and strengthening social bonds.

The systematic devaluation of this deeply cherished hair heritage began with the transatlantic slave trade. Enslaved Africans were often subjected to the dehumanizing act of having their heads shaved, an attempt to strip them of their cultural identity and sever their ties to their ancestral communities. Removed from their homelands, without access to traditional tools, ingredients, or the time for elaborate styling rituals, their hair often became matted and damaged, leading to the use of head coverings.

This period marked a profound shift, initiating a long legacy of discrimination where textured hair was denigrated and labelled with derogatory terms like “nappy” or “kinky”. These negative perceptions were not organic; they were imposed, paving the way for a historical pattern where European beauty standards gained dominance, influencing perceptions of textured hair for centuries to come.

Ritual

The memory of touch, of hands moving with purpose through strands, defines the tender thread of hair ritual. This practice, passed down through the ages, was not merely about outward presentation; it was a profound act of kinship, community, and personal wellbeing. In pre-colonial Africa, hairstyling sessions served as vital social gatherings, moments where wisdom was exchanged, bonds strengthened, and heritage stories preserved. The creation of cornrows, twists, and various intricate patterns often took hours, allowing for conversation, learning, and the quiet transmission of cultural knowledge from elders to younger generations.

These styles, frequently called protective styles , were designed to shield the hair from environmental rigors and minimize manipulation, promoting length retention and overall strand health. Their forms were often symbolic, with patterns sometimes conveying coded messages or even serving as maps during times of enslavement.

What Ancestral Styling Methods Were Practiced?

The ancestral repertoire of styling techniques was rich and diverse, a testament to human ingenuity and deep observation of hair’s natural inclinations. Beyond simple braiding, methods like threading, twisting, and knotting were common. African hair threading , known as “Irun Kiko” among the Yoruba, is an ancient practice that involved wrapping hair with thread, creating elongated and protective styles that safeguarded the hair from damage. This was an early form of protective manipulation, anticipating modern concepts of low-tension styling.

Another enduring style, the Bantu knot , originating with the Zulu people of Southern Africa, involves coiling sections of hair upon themselves to form small, coiled buns, a technique that provides protection and sets hair with a distinct curl pattern. These methods underscore a long-standing understanding of how to manage and adorn textured hair in ways that honored its inherent structure.

The arrival of the transatlantic slave trade profoundly disrupted these sacred rituals. Enslaved Africans were systematically stripped of their tools, their traditional ingredients, and the very time needed for these elaborate, communal styling practices. This deliberate cultural violence aimed to dismantle their identity. As a consequence, many were forced to hide their hair under headwraps, which, despite their oppressive origins, also became symbols of dignity and resistance.

Ancestral hair practices embodied community, protection, and a deep understanding of textured hair’s natural properties.

How Did Media Alter Hair Perceptions?

Following emancipation, the struggle for acceptance within a dominant society led many Black individuals to adopt hair practices that aligned with Eurocentric beauty ideals. This era saw the rise of hair straightening as a means to gain social acceptance and economic opportunity. The burgeoning Black beauty industry, initially driven by innovators like Madam C.J.

Walker and Annie Malone , offered products and tools like the hot comb, which allowed for temporary straightening. While these women built significant wealth and provided solutions for Black women seeking to conform, their innovations also, sometimes inadvertently, reinforced the notion that straight hair was the standard for professionalism and beauty.

Media, in its nascent forms—print advertisements and early visual culture—played a crucial role in disseminating and reinforcing these narrow beauty standards. Advertisements from the early to mid-20th century frequently promoted skin lighteners and hair straighteners, often from white-owned companies with little true understanding of Black hair, signaling that conformity was a path to social mobility. These depictions, though not always overt, subtly communicated that textured hair, in its natural state, was less desirable, messy, or unprofessional.

Consider the case of the chemical relaxer , a product that gained immense popularity in the mid-20th century. Advertisements for these lye-based or no-lye formulas often presented them as a “solution” to “unmanageable” or “difficult” hair, explicitly or implicitly equating straight, silky hair with beauty and ease. This framing created a powerful internal narrative for many ❉ that their natural texture was a problem needing to be fixed.

The imagery used in these advertisements featured models with straightened hair, visually reinforcing the desired aesthetic and subtly dismissing the inherent beauty of coils and kinks. This historical pattern shows how media representations, even in their earliest forms, shaped a collective consciousness around hair, often leading individuals to internalize standards that were far removed from their ancestral hair heritage.

Relay

The current dialogue around textured hair stands as a testament to its unbound helix , a living, evolving narrative that stretches from ancient practices to contemporary reclamation. The deeply rooted biases against textured hair, seeded through centuries of imposed standards and reinforced by media depictions, continue to influence perceptions and experiences today. Yet, against this backdrop, powerful movements have emerged, asserting the inherent beauty and cultural richness of coils, kinks, and waves.

How Does Media Influence Hair Discrimination?

The weight of historical narratives and persistent media portrayals of beauty has resulted in quantifiable challenges for individuals with textured hair. A significant example is found in the professional sphere. According to a 2020 article published in the Social Psychological and Personality Science journal, Black women with natural hairstyles like tight curls, box braids, or a natural afro were less likely to be recommended for job interviews compared to candidates with straightened hair or white women with curly or straight hair. This stark reality reveals how internalized beauty standards, often propagated through media, translate into real-world discrimination, limiting opportunities based solely on hair texture.

This phenomenon, termed “hairism,” favors hair types and textures that align with European beauty standards—typically long, straight, and silky. Media, both traditional and digital, has historically contributed to this preference by showcasing a disproportionate number of models and public figures with straightened hair, presenting it as the default or ideal. Even as the natural hair movement gains momentum, the sheer volume of content depicting Eurocentric ideals can subtly undermine self-acceptance for those with textured hair.

Media representations have significantly influenced the perception and acceptance of textured hair, often leading to discrimination.

What Protections Exist for Natural Hair?

In response to this pervasive discrimination, legislative efforts have taken root, notably the CROWN Act . Standing for “Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair,” this legislation aims to prohibit discrimination based on race-based hairstyles by extending legal protection to hair texture and styles such as braids, locs, twists, and Afros in workplaces and public schools. California led the way in 2019, becoming the first state to outlaw such discrimination, a critical step towards dismantling a long-standing bias.

While the CROWN Act has passed in many states, its federal passage remains a goal, underscoring the ongoing struggle for universal acceptance of natural hair. This act is not merely about legal protection; it is a profound affirmation of Black culture and identity , recognizing the intrinsic cultural importance of Black hair and uplifting individuals’ choices regarding their hair.

The natural hair movement, a contemporary cultural renaissance, has been a powerful counter-narrative to these dismissive standards. Gaining significant momentum in the 2000s, especially with the rise of social media, it has provided platforms for individuals to share their hair journeys, exchange styling tips, and celebrate their authentic textures. This digital communal space has facilitated the revival of ancient African hair care practices that were obscured during slavery, with stylists and enthusiasts sharing knowledge globally. The visibility of diverse textured hair in media, fueled by this movement, challenges the narrow definitions of beauty and promotes inclusivity.

Holistic hair care, deeply informed by ancestral wisdom, represents another vital aspect of this contemporary reclamation. It moves beyond superficial styling to address hair health as an aspect of overall wellbeing, drawing from centuries of knowledge about natural ingredients.

1. Shea Butter ❉ A traditional West African ingredient, valued for its moisturizing and softening properties, historically used to nourish hair and scalp.
2. Chebe Powder ❉ Sourced from Chad, this powder, made from the seeds of the Chebe plant, has been traditionally used by the Bassara/Baggara Arab tribe for hair length retention and strength.
3. Aloe Vera ❉ Used across various African traditions for its soothing and conditioning abilities, helping to maintain scalp health and hair moisture.

Nighttime rituals, particularly the use of head coverings like bonnets and scarves, also have deep historical resonance. While headwraps were imposed during slavery as a means of control and to hide hair, they also transformed into symbols of dignity and cultural preservation. Today, bonnets and silk scarves serve a similar protective function, safeguarding delicate strands from friction and moisture loss during sleep, thereby promoting hair health and retaining styles. This continuity of practice, even with altered motivations, links modern care routines directly back to the ingenuity and resilience of past generations.

Reflection

The path trod by textured hair, from its sacred ancestral roots to its present-day reassertion, is a profound narrative of resilience and unwavering spirit. Each curl, coil, and wave carries the echoes of history, of traditions both lost and vigorously reclaimed. The external pressures, particularly those wielded through the lens of media, have certainly cast long shadows, attempting to dim the innate brilliance of natural textures.

Yet, in the face of these challenges, textured hair has consistently affirmed its place not merely as a biological attribute, but as a vibrant emblem of identity, community, and heritage. The ongoing commitment to understanding its unique needs, celebrating its diverse forms, and upholding its inherent dignity ensures that the story of textured hair will continue to unfurl, a timeless testament to beauty unbound by narrow definitions.