Can historical hair practices influence modern self-perception?

Roots

To stand upon this earth, truly present, means to know the currents that have shaped us, seen and unseen. For those of us with textured hair, this journey into self-perception finds its wellspring in practices stretching back beyond memory, echoing across continents and generations. Our hair, a living testament, carries more than just strands; it holds histories, wisdom, and the very blueprint of our cultural existence. To ask if these ancestral hair practices influence our contemporary view of ourselves is to inquire about the foundations of a dwelling whose walls whisper stories of old, shaping every new inhabitant.

Consider the earliest expressions of identity woven into hair, long before colonial gazes imposed their frameworks. In myriad pre-colonial African societies, hair was a profound visual lexicon, an intricate language spoken without words. It served as a declaration, signifying lineage, social standing, age, marital status, and even spiritual connections. The very act of hair grooming was a communal ritual, a moment of connection and shared wisdom, rather than a solitary cosmetic routine (Sieber & Herreman, 2000).

The specific patterns of braids or the deliberate sculpting of coils were not arbitrary; they were narratives, declarations of who one was and where one belonged within the collective. This historical weight of hair as a marker of identity, as something with inherent meaning and purpose, continues to reverberate in the hearts and minds of individuals with textured hair today.

What Constitutes Textured Hair from an Ancient Perspective?

The biophysical reality of textured hair—its unique coiling patterns, its propensity for volume and definition—was understood through an intuitive, empirical lens in ancient cultures. They did not possess the electron microscopes of today, yet their care practices revealed a deep, practical understanding of its distinct needs. They knew its strengths, its vulnerabilities, and how to coax its intrinsic qualities into forms both practical and symbolic. The classifications, if we might call them that, were not numerical grades but rather descriptors tied to familial resemblance, tribal styles, or the natural flow and density of a person’s crown.

This knowledge was often passed down through generations, a living curriculum spoken in the gentle tug of a comb, the precise parting of a section, or the application of naturally derived oils and butters. The terms used were steeped in the vernacular of the community, often reflecting the hair’s natural form or the animal it resembled. Such intimate, hands-on transmission fostered a self-perception rooted in collective belonging and the inherent beauty of one’s natural hair, a counterpoint to the later, often painful, narratives of external imposition.

Hair, in its primordial context, served as an ancient language of identity and belonging, a living archive worn upon the head.

Ancient Lexicon for Textured Hair

The original names for specific textures or styles, largely lost to the wider world but preserved in fragments of oral tradition and historical texts, speak volumes. They were not terms of denigration but of appreciation, rooted in the land, its flora, and the rhythms of communal life. For example, specific patterns of intricate braids or twists would have names reflecting their symbolic meaning or the person who created them, anchoring the hair to tangible cultural significance. This contrasts sharply with the later imposition of terms like “bad hair” or “unprofessional,” which emerged from a system designed to devalue anything outside a Eurocentric aesthetic (PMC, 2023).

The journey of understanding our hair today often begins with reclaiming this lexicon, recognizing the beauty and dignity inherent in terms like “coils,” “kinks,” and “locs” that describe the very architecture of our strands. This act of naming, or reclaiming names, directly impacts our self-perception, transforming what was once a source of shame into a source of pride, directly connecting back to the reverence of ancient practices.

Ritual

The ritual of hair care, particularly within textured hair traditions, has long been a profound act of self-connection and communal bond. From ancient techniques to modern interpretations, these practices are not merely about aesthetics; they are ceremonies of identity, resilience, and continuity. The hands that detangle, braid, or adorn are not just styling; they are transmitting heritage, whispering stories, and reaffirming an individual’s place within a grander lineage.

Traditional Care Techniques and Their Enduring Presence

Long before commercial products lined shelves, communities developed sophisticated methods for cleansing, nourishing, and shaping textured hair. These methods, born of necessity and deep environmental knowledge, often involved local herbs, natural oils, and the shared wisdom of elders. The art of Cornrowing, for example, dates back as far as 3000 B.C. in the Horn and West coasts of Africa (BLAM UK CIC, 2022).

These intricate patterns, beyond their decorative appeal, served practical purposes ❉ managing hair, protecting it from the elements, and even conveying hidden messages. During the transatlantic slave trade, some enslaved African women, particularly rice farmers, braided rice seeds into their hair as a means of survival, a living granary in their crowns (BLAM UK CIC, 2022). They also used cornrows to create maps for escape, a testament to the ingenuity and resistance embedded in these practices (BLAM UK CIC, 2022). This profound historical context elevates such styles beyond simple fashion choices; they are symbols of survival, resistance, and the enduring power of cultural memory.

The care rituals extended beyond mere styling. They included meticulous detangling with hand-carved combs, the application of plant-based elixirs for scalp health, and specific drying methods that honored the hair’s coiled nature. These were slow, deliberate acts, often performed in a communal setting, fostering intimacy and reinforcing bonds.

The gentle touch of a grandmother’s hands, the shared laughter, the quiet strength exchanged—these are the intangible elements that imbued the hair with spiritual and emotional significance, shaping the self-perception of those receiving the care. To this day, many in the textured hair community find solace and a sense of grounding in recreating these traditional regimens.

The legacy of textured hair care is a symphony of ancestral ingenuity, resilience, and an unwavering commitment to cultural expression.

A powerful instance of hair as a historical and ongoing marker of identity can be seen in the Makai hairstyle of the Elmina people of Ghana. This pre-colonial hair grooming fashion, tracing its roots to the town’s founding around 1300 CE, is still central to the annual Bakatue festival and its connection to traditional religious beliefs (International Journal of Arts and Social Science, 2018). The continuation of such specific styles, evolving slightly with time while retaining their core elements, underscores how modern self-perception is interwoven with these long-standing cultural touchstones. It shows a continuous dialogue between the past and present, where hair serves as a bridge, reminding individuals of their deep roots and the enduring value of their heritage.

Traditional Tools and Adornments

The tools of ancient hair care were born of the earth ❉ wide-toothed combs from wood or bone, intricate pins crafted from metal or carved ivory, and adornments fashioned from shells, beads, and precious metals. Each tool was a product of skilled hands, often imbued with spiritual significance. Consider the meticulous effort put into creating these implements, reflecting the value placed on the hair itself.

• Bone Combs ❉ Often carved with patterns, these combs gently separated strands, minimizing breakage, a practice that echoes in modern wide-tooth combs.
• Wooden Pins ❉ Used to secure elaborate updos, these pins were sometimes adorned with symbols, conveying messages about the wearer’s status or intentions.
• Natural Butters ❉ Shea butter, cocoa butter, and various plant oils provided deep nourishment and moisture, forming the foundation of many ancient hair care routines.

These tools, rather than being mere instruments, were extensions of the care ritual, connecting the individual to the collective wisdom of their ancestors. The adornments, meanwhile, were not simply decorative; they were expressions of social status, tribal affiliation, or personal achievements. The intricate weaving of cowrie shells or the precise placement of gold beads communicated narratives to the community. When individuals today choose to wear their hair in traditional protective styles, or adorn it with elements that harken back to these ancient practices, they are not only making an aesthetic choice; they are performing an act of self-reclamation, drawing strength and pride from a profound ancestral legacy.

Relay

The journey of textured hair through history is a powerful relay, where ancestral practices pass on wisdom and resilience, influencing how individuals perceive themselves today. This relay is not merely a linear progression; it is a complex interplay of continuity and disruption, adaptation and defiance. The self-perception tied to textured hair has been shaped not only by the beauty and symbolism of ancient practices but also by the profound impact of colonial erasure and subsequent movements of reclamation.

How Did Historical Hair Practices Influence Self-Esteem?

The collective memory of textured hair communities holds stories of both reverence and struggle. In pre-colonial African societies, hair was a source of great honor and cultural belonging (PMC, 2023). This fostered a self-perception rooted in confidence and identity, where hair was an unadulterated expression of self and heritage. However, the transatlantic slave trade violently disrupted this understanding.

Enslaved Africans had their heads shaved upon arrival, a deliberate act of dehumanization designed to strip away identity and spirit (Byrd & Tharps, 2001; Johnson & Bankhead, 2014; Thompson, 2009). This traumatic imposition initiated a long, painful history of hair being a site of oppression and a tool for asserting control.

As Eurocentric beauty standards gained dominance, tightly coiled hair became pathologized, labeled as “unprofessional,” “messy,” or even “dirty” (Research, 2025). This external judgment seeped into the collective consciousness, causing significant psychological harm. Black women, in particular, often experienced immense pressure to chemically straighten their hair to conform to these standards, impacting their self-confidence and self-identity (PMC, 2023; Research, 2025). This societal pressure led to feelings of inadequacy and, for many, a disconnection from their natural selves (UNH Scholars Repository, 2017).

The historical devaluation of textured hair by dominant societal norms inflicted an “esthetic trauma,” a deep wound to collective self-perception.

A significant body of research points to the enduring psychological toll of hair discrimination. The Association of Black Psychologists described hair discrimination as an “esthetic trauma,” noting its severe mental health effects (PMC, 2023). This trauma manifests as internalized racism, negative self-image, anxiety, chronic stress in professional settings, and even cultural disconnection (Research, 2025). One study highlighted that Young Black Girls, some as young as 10 years old, experience negative encounters related to their hair, including teasing and unwanted touching (Perez et al.

2022, cited in ASU, 2022). These experiences, seemingly minor, chip away at self-esteem and belonging, influencing how these girls perceive their own worth.

How Does Ancestral Wisdom Inform Holistic Hair Wellness?

Despite the historical trauma, ancestral wisdom provides powerful counter-narratives and pathways to healing. The natural hair movement, gaining prominence in the 1960s and experiencing a resurgence in the early 2000s, represents a profound act of self-reclamation. It encourages individuals to embrace their natural hair texture as a symbol of Black pride and self-acceptance (PMC, 2023; EliScholar, 2023). This movement is a direct response to the historical pressures to conform, allowing individuals to reconnect with a heritage of beauty and resilience.

The decision to wear natural hair, for many, is a political statement and an indicator of self-satisfaction and ethnic pride (Cal State Open Journals, 2019). Research has found a positive correlation between higher self-esteem and the choice to wear natural hair among African American women (Johnson & Bankhead, 2014, cited in Cal State Open Journals, 2019). This data powerfully illustrates how rejecting imposed beauty standards and reconnecting with ancestral hair practices can directly bolster self-perception and a sense of ethnic pride.

Holistic hair wellness, guided by ancestral knowledge, looks beyond superficial shine to address the full well-being of the individual. This includes attention to diet, stress reduction, and mind-body connection, all of which historically informed care practices. When considering a hair regimen, the ancestral approach might guide one to:

1. Mindful Cleansing ❉ Selecting gentle cleansers that honor the hair’s natural moisture balance, much like ancient practices that utilized natural soaps and minimal manipulation.
2. Nutrient-Rich Applications ❉ Incorporating traditional ingredients such as various plant oils and infusions, known for their restorative properties, mirroring the use of indigenous botanicals.
3. Protective Styling as Preservation ❉ Opting for styles that shield the hair from environmental damage and excessive handling, a direct continuation of styles born of necessity and longevity.

The Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair, or CROWN Act, stands as a modern legislative response to this historical discrimination. Initiated in 2019, this act seeks to prohibit discrimination based on hair texture and protective hairstyles, including braids, locs, twists, and knots, in workplaces and schools (Official CROWN Act, 2024; Voyant Beauty, 2020). Its passage in various states signifies a growing recognition that hair is not merely an aesthetic choice; it is a manifestation of racial, ethnic, and cultural identity.

The CROWN Act aims to dismantle systemic biases that have historically forced individuals to alter their hair to conform to Eurocentric standards, thereby impacting their self-perception and opportunities (Law Office of Bryan Fagan, 2023). This legislative action, born from generations of resistance, enables individuals to embrace their natural hair with greater confidence and less fear of reprisal, directly fostering a healthier self-perception rooted in authenticity and heritage.

Reflection

Our hair, with its unique bends and spirals, stands as a testament to journeys taken, wisdom gathered, and spirit maintained. It is more than mere protein filaments; it is a living chronicle, a library of ancestral resilience. When we consider how historical hair practices shape our contemporary self-perception, we are not simply looking back through dusty tomes; we are listening to the echoes that reverberate within our very being. The touch of a loved one styling our hair, the shared laughter in a salon that feels like a family gathering, the quiet determination to wear our natural texture despite societal pressures—these moments are steeped in the heritage passed down through generations.

The path ahead for textured hair involves a continuous embrace of this legacy. It means understanding that the choices we make about our crowns today are acts of continuity, honoring the ingenuity of those who came before us. Each strand carries the memory of ancient rites, the defiance of enslaved ancestors, and the celebration of identity by those who reclaimed their crowns.

Roothea, in its spirit, seeks to illuminate these connections, to deepen the appreciation for a heritage that is not static but a dynamic, unfolding story. May we continue to wear our histories with pride, knowing that in every coil and kink, a boundless legacy shines, guiding our paths toward self-knowing and collective strength.